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Nova Scotia

Nova Scotia

Push your boundaries and head east from Maine’s northern coast to discover the rugged charm of one of Nova Scotia.

It’s time to stretch your cruising boundaries to a place that is closer to the mainland than you might expect. A place where the people are friendly, the scenery is undeniably spectacular, boating facilities are expanding, and the crush of tourists has yet to fully
blossom—Canada’s Nova Scotia.

Located on Canada’s east coast across the Bay of Fundy from St. John, New Brunswick, and off the eastern Atlantic coast of Maine, Nova Scotia is nearly an island, connected by a relatively thin strip of terra firma to the mainland. Although accessible by car, plane, and ferry, it is by private boat that you’ll really get to see this wonderland up close and personal. For those with sea legs, no other approach will do.

Discover the Unknown

Dripping with history and personality, the peninsula was discovered by Italian explorer John Cabot in 1497, and Alexander Graham Bell lived, worked, and boated in the Bras d’Or Lake region. Nova Scotia is one of four original Canadian provinces (the others being Ontario, Quebec, and New Brunswick). But closer to Maine’s northeasternmost ports and far more expansive than you might imagine, it’s population of slightly less than 1 million is spread across a massive 21,000 square miles. With such uncrowded surroundings, you’ll find it is a terrific place to slow your pace, make new friends, and simply poke around or gunkhole in the thousands of pockets, coves, harbors, rivers, and backwaters that encircle and invade the province.

For modern-day explorers who like to adventure out on their own, this is nirvana. The possibilities really are endless, and you can tackle them at your own pace. View hundreds of miles of unaltered coastline, experience wildlife encounters with everything from whales to bald eagles, and enjoy fine dining, wineries, golfing, local culture, and incredible fishing that ranges from giant tuna to Atlantic salmon found along Cape Breton Island’s western shore. Diving, snorkeling, biking, hiking, and photography are other options as is virtually any outdoor challenge that tickles your fancy.

Size Matters

“Nova Scotia may be larger than you expect,” says Adam Langley, marine director for Develop Nova Scotia. “But make no mistake about it, everyone here is connected to the sea in one way or another. In fact, no matter where you stand in our province, you’ll never be more than 42 miles from the ocean. There are seven different regions here, each featuring its own individual flavor ranging from quaint fishing villages to our bustling capital city of Halifax, wine country, mountains, lake regions, and more. Each, however, is anchored by the sea.”

All told, Nova Scotia boasts around 4,600 miles of coastline and more than 3,800 islands plus hundreds of small communities where boatbuilding still flourishes. “Their commonality? They all welcome visitors, especially the cruising kind,” adds Langley. “And allow me to let you in on a little secret. We aren’t as far away as you think.”

Cruising Options

Indeed, with the ever-increasing range and comfort capacities of private cruising craft these days, visiting Nova Scotia makes a lot of sense. You’ll need a vessel capable of carrying out the voyage across some wide-open water, but seaworthy models in the 40- to-50-foot range as well as much larger yachts make this trip with regularity and ease. Most depart from the easternmost harbors in Maine or St. John, New Brunswick, and cut across the Bay of Fundy for a brief stay in Yarmouth before rounding the point at Cape Sable Lighthouse and heading along the southern shore to the larger and more cosmopolitan Halifax.

This port, in turn, serves as a jumping-off point to slide farther north along the eastern shore to Cape Breton Island and, the pi¨ece de resistance for visiting boaters in this stretch, the Bras d’Or Lake region. Here you’ll find North America’s biggest inland sea where waters are said to be as deep as the surrounding mountains are tall.

Make it Your Own

“We took a slightly different trek on our visit here last summer,” says Milt Baker, a repeat visitor to Nova Scotia. “Departing from Southwest Harbor, Maine, we ran about two hundred nautical miles to Lunenburg in my bluewater, forty-seven-foot Nordhavn. That’s a wonderfully scenic, old-fashioned Nova Scotia town where we enjoyed several nights before heading fifty nautical miles to Halifax with its vibrant waterfront for a week-long stay. From there, we took another overnight to the brackish waters of Bras d’Or Lake, an amazing place that you’ve just got to see.

Among other establishments, we love a small village there called Baddeck where there are a number of really good restaurants plus the Alexander Graham Bell museum, simply a fascinating, world-class center that features many of its namesake’s inventions and those of his wife, also an accomplished inventor.

“Nova Scotia really is a terrific place,” continues Baker. “It’s beautiful and friendly with clean waters, and there’s always something new or different to check out. My wife and I started coming here several years ago. We love the scenery, the atmosphere, and the culture. The people here are welcoming, friendly, and helpful. That’s turned out to be one of the primary reasons we keep coming back.”

Seasons Greetings

Summer is obviously the time you’ll want to make this trip. Nova Scotia gets mighty cold in the off-season, and you best not deal with the open Atlantic come winter. Boating season, at least the tourist one, runs from May through October with July, August, and September as prime time. There is a slight hurricane threat in September, but the big storms have missed this haven over the past few years. You can expect air temperatures of 75 to 85 degrees, moderate winds out of the southwest, and water temps in the high 50s to mid to high 70s depending on which coast you dip your tootsies into. There are some stretches where you can swim without neoprene, says Langley, of the perceived cool waters here.

“Melmerby Beach and Heather Beach on the Northumberland Strait quickly come to mind as does Bras d’Or Lake where you’ll mostly dive off the back of your boat.”

Plan Ahead

As for where to start when planning your Nova Scotia visit, the Bras d’Or Lake region is a full-fledged journey but a great first choice if you have the time. Roughly 140 nautical miles northeast of Halifax, it’s known for gentle waters that are generally fog-free—a real treat in these parts. This area, Baker’s favorite, sports beautiful anchorages, hundreds of coves and islands. Even better?  It is recognized as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

Consider staying in Halifax for a few days, then work your way east along the coast to enter Bras d’Or Lake through the canal lock at St. Peter’s. Fully provision and top-off your tanks, both fuel and water, before leaving Halifax. You won’t find much heading up to St. Peter’s Canal. The Liscombe Lodge Resort and Conference Center tucked in on the Liscombe River is the only spot to get fuel, ice, and a quick bite to eat (provisions are not available). The dock can accommodate boats up to 150 feet with a 12-foot draw.

“Don’t hurry or rush if you visit Nova Scotia,” advises Langley. “There’s just so much to see and do that no matter how long you stay, you’ll never squeeze it all into a single trip. See what you can, and enjoy it to the fullest.”

Plan an extended visit if at all possible. The No. 1 mistake visiting boaters make when heading to Nova Scotia is not scheduling enough time. In addition to distance, foul weather can keep you at the dock for a day or two at any point in the boating season. “Figure you’ll need a minimum of ten days,” says Baker. “If you can stay longer, so much the better.”

Shades of Nova Scotia

Bay of Fundy: Enjoy whale-watching and experience the highest tides in the world. There are breathtaking lookoffs and fertile lush valleys and vineyards.

Lunenburg/South Shore: This picturesque active waterfront is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lunenburg is great for boatbuilding and fishing. French and English cultures intermingle in Yarmouth and Acadian Shores.

Halifax: The best of land and sea with a cosmopolitan blend of cafés, shops, galleries, restaurants, and nightlife combined with a picturesque, full-functioning harbor. The Halifax waterfront offers more than half a mile of public berth space, including 1,500 feet of floating docks. The Harbourwalk boardwalk is home to numerous restaurants, vendors, attractions, and events.

Bras d’Or Lake: Stunning highlands and vibrant Celtic culture make Cape Breton Island a paradise of rugged coastal trails, crystalline lakes, and fascinating local museums.

Eastern Shore, 100 Wild Islands: Features private, sandy beach anchorages and breathtaking nature preserves. Includes some of the best-secluded seascapes in North America. Great for wreck diving, surfing, and bike rides across gently rolling hills.

Northumberland Strait: Stunning beaches, warm ocean water, and breathtaking sunsets. Head ashore and discover the picturesque villages with rich heritage by bike, or kick up your heels to some great local music. Anchor off Melmerby Beach Provincial Park or find one of the many secluded island beaches, such as Pictou Island’s unspoiled beauty.

Just the Halifacts:

Halifax Harbour

Travel Distances to Halifax from:

  • St. John, New Brunswick 295 nautical miles
  • Boston, MA 380 nautical miles
  • Portland, ME 330 nautical miles
  • Bar Harbor, ME 275 nautical miles
  • Newport, RI 435 nautical miles

Halifax is Nova Scotia’s capital city and a popular jumping-off spot for cruising the entire southern shore, but Yarmouth is the closest Canadian port of entry for anyone coming directly from the U.S. Subtract approximately 140 nautical miles from the distances above if Yarmouth is your initial destination. The port does have some dock space as well as anchorages and is a dedicated clearance port for Canadian Border Services.

Good to Know

Most harbors in Nova Scotia have a government wharf. However, these are quite rough with docking limited or unavailable. Be safe and check ahead whenever possible. Also, note that many public slips lack electric and some might not have water or even restroom facilities. The farther you progress from the primary ports, the more you’ll need to be self-sufficient. Always carry full provisions, and be aware of the next fuel, food, and lodging possibilities.

Additional Resources

Nova Scotia Boating Guide: developns.ca/visit

Boating in Nova Scotia: novascotia.com/see-do/outdoor-activities/boating

If you’re a golfer, sign up for the Harb’r Cup at Fox Harb’r Resort on Nova Scotia’s northern coast September 3-5. Two spots are open for readers interested in this invitation-only event. Contact kimberly@kimberlyibarra.com.

Six Spots to See in in 2019

Six Spots to See in in 2019

Have you started planning your 2019 cruising itinerary? So many places, so little time. Here are six geographically diverse hotspots to get you excited for cruising in the new year.

Sanibel, FL

Sanibel and her sister Captiva offer easy access to the Gulf of Mexico for serious offshore fishing adventures and open-throttle cruises. At the same time, this is where Florida’s Gulf Coast Intercoastal Waterway (ICW) begins, allowing boaters to tuck inside Pine Island Sound where waters are generally mellow but some routes run shallow.

As for dining out, it’s hard to go wrong here. Among dozens of fine eateries, The Lazy Flamingo has restaurants on both Sanibel and Captiva. Catch your own fish and they’ll cook ’em three different ways.

The Berry Islands, The Bahamas

While this isn’t technically a city, the Berry Islands hold great historic intrigue owing to their past as a drug transshipment Mecca and a playground for the rich and famous to live out their fantasies. Nevertheless, it’s the championship sport fishing and island tranquility (with their many secluded beaches) that attract leisure boaters.

Thinking about chartering in the Berrys? From Nassau, daily flights are morning and afternoon on Le Air’s 19-seater. From Fort Lauderdale, Tropic Ocean Airways offers direct flights every Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Sunday.

 

River Dunes, North Carolina

Located just of the Pamlico Sound, River Dunes aims to enhance the cruiser’s lifestyle, and it shows through with lush landscaping, architectural design features, gourmet meals, fully outfitted facilities, and a friendly staff. Cruisers on the property agree that it’s more of an experience than a marina.

For transient cruisers, the best part is that they’re welcome to use all club members’ amenities at no additional cost. In fact, one cruiser discovered the benefits of River Dunes quite unexpectedly.

Nantucket, Massachusetts

Nantucket, an island located 30 miles off the coast of Cape Cod, stands apart from other cities. An ideal one, where the beaches are always perfectly windswept, the lighthouses are straight out of a postcard, and life moves a little slower. Could it be “the best island in the world”? National Geographic thinks so.

In spite of Nantucket’s relatively small size—less than 50 square miles—its inhabitants and history offer a bounty of captivating stories that have been passed down through generations. The New England island is a must see in 2019.

Tangier Island, Virginia

You’ll have to move quickly to see Tangier Island. Due to a changing climate, the island is losing its coastline and losing it quickly. Getting to the rustic and charming town is an adventure in itself.

But, when you get there, you’ll discover a beautiful, rugged place populated by interesting folks who march to the beat of their own drummer, no matter what Mother Nature throws their way.

Bonaire, Caribbean

Bonaire has 86 official dive sites that will suit almost any diver.  Dedicated to marine conservation and protecting their gorgeous waters, the primarily Dutch island has unparalleled dive sites. The island is dedicated to conservation and preservation throughout all of its tourism initiatives. Bonaire pursues projects that will reduce the CO2 effects on the planet and works toward being an eco-friendly destination.

Where will your travels take you in 2019?

Cruising through Europe

Thomas Kittel retires from a successful executive career and with his wife, Jutta, he embarks on a series of cruising adventures that most would not have the courage to consider. Here is his travel diary cruising through Europe.

With a flying start, we set out on our Marlow 72E Azura for our fourth major voyage and leave Rostock, Germany, on May 12, 2017. A strong easterly wind pushes us through the Fehmarn Sound to Kiel where German customs show that they are still attentive and pay us a visit. Even though the check is routine, they wear bullet-proof vests and one person must stay on the dock. After checking our papers, their main interest is our 13,000-liter fuel tank. Some boat owners use tax-saving sources because of the high fuel prices, but we employ no such means and have nothing to fear. They are satisfied by the email exchange from the fuel supplier. With that, we’re on our way to begin cruising through Europe.

The locks and motoring through the Kiel Canal are routine for us, and we stay in the familiar Cuxhaven SVC Marina. One morning, however, I learn that too much routine can have its downsides. When backing out from the yacht harbor, I turn in a little too early and ram a lightweight floating dock. Luckily, only our hull’s paint and gelcoat are damaged, but the floating dock is heavily bent. We immediately dock at the nearby diesel filling station and then, of course, the whole communication goes off with the port, the water police, and my insurance. Finally, everyone has what they need, and we’re back on our way.

Safety First

Misfortune, however, is seldom alone and shortly after leaving Cuxhaven, dense fog envelops us. Sailors without an automatic identification system (AIS) are only visible as a small, colored point on the radar screen and I’m forced to dodge them. After some tense moments, the fog clears and the day becomes glorious with sun and little wind as we travel along the East Frisian Islands to Norderney.

To continue on through the Netherlands, we opt to cruise inside on De Staande Mastroute because it allows the vertical clearance we need and avoids the North Sea. We already know a large part of the route, but it is always fun to steer our large “steamer” through the pretty Holland countryside with its narrow canals and bridges.

We stop over in Dokkum and get to know this picturesque “dollhouse” with distinctive windmills. As we travel through Lemmer, Amsterdam, Haarlem, and Dordrecht, Willemstad is one of the highlights on the Dutch section of our trip. Here, we manage to get a place in the old, small town port without a reservation. This harbor, built into the former citadel, offers a very rare photo opportunity, but you’ll have to accept the tourist crowds because Willemstad is an attractive tourist destination.

Our visit here the previous year was filled with annoyance and unplanned detours from blocked bridges, but everything goes smoothly. We reach Zeebrugge, Belgium, as planned, where we take our first guest on board and leave behind the familiar waterways. Dunkerque is our first French seaport and a significant rite of passage. It’s where our watersports activities began 20 years prior with a motorboat we chartered in Pontailler-sur-Saône (Burgundy) without the slightest clue about boating.

From the sea, Dunkerque is not exactly inviting. Immediately at the entrance to the harbor, huge industrial buildings with smoking chimneys form the reception committee. We decide for the marina closer to the center and are rewarded by two female harbormasters who are friendly, professional and create space for us on the jetty. However, there is no real French “feeling” here. Much appears to be outdated, many places are empty and deserted, and the sailboat next to us is sprinkled liberally with verdigris and doesn’t help the atmosphere. It’s the same with Boulogne-sur-Mer, despite the very well-preserved old town built on a hill.

Lock it up

But then comes Le Tréport. Some courage is needed to enter the small fishing port and marina, which can only be reached at high tide by a barely sufficient lock. You have to rely on the harbormaster for possible free berths because on your own, you see nothing from the lock. In the lock, we get a pontoon number assigned and sneak through the ever-narrowing port to discover that the designated space is occupied. We tie up provisionally alongside the tour boat Eros, but with no other alternatives, we remain there albeit with no electricity, no water, and a small climb through the tour boat to get ashore.

Le Tréport is located at the mouth of the Bresle River and the coast’s more than 100-meter-high chalk cliffs strongly remind us of the English coast, which was probably the reason for Queen Victoria’s two visits. You can climb the 370-plus steps or ascend the cliffs with an inclined lift hewn into the rocks. At the top, your reward is a breathtaking view of the sea, the village of Le Tréport and Mers-les-Bains across the river.

Here, the undisputed star is the 1844-built lighthouse that stands on the top of the western pier to the harbor entrance. Even at high tide, it rises impressively, but at low tide, it unfolds an even greater impact. Up to 10 meters of water has disappeared, and the fairway to the port is completely empty. The piers projecting out of the sand now look like huge castle walls on which the lighthouse towers like a keep.

There’s an additional building that houses a large bell and several giant fog horns. It’s easy to imagine which hellish spectacle prevails here in fog. I feel reminiscent of the ill-conceived fog horn in Long Day’s Journey into Night by Eugene O’Neill, which I recently saw in Hamburg. But unlike the play, the weather is peaceful. Evening walkers populate the pier to the lighthouse, whose romantic flair no one can escape, and a short-term cloud hole offers a near completely calm sea. The air is like velvet and silk, a moody atmosphere for our photography.

Memories

Before we leave Le Tréport the next day, the wind suddenly turns and increases in strength. We have only two hours to Dieppe before us, but for the first time on this tour, things get a bit bumpy. Luckily, we stowed the fenders and lines in port beforehand. Dieppe welcomes us with a large, well-protected marina in the city center. Here we rent a car for the first time and drive to Amiens, the departmental capital of Picardy, with which I connect many memories from my school days—first trip abroad, appearances with the school orchestra, accommodation with a French family, flirting with the daughter of the house.

Often the reality of today disappoints the glorified memories of yesterday, but here it’s the other way around. The grey Amiens of my school days has become a charming city. The famous Cathédrale Notre Dame d’Amiens, one of the three great cathedrals of the High Gothic era, has the highest nave of all French cathedrals and served as a structural model for the Cologne Cathedral. The cathedral overlooks a pretty, old town where the Somme River’s side arms and canals create an almost Venetian flair.

Where the Somme enters into the sea lies the Baie de la Somme, which is dry at low tide and offers refuge for more than 300 species of birds. Le Crotoy, Saint-Valerie-sur- Somme and Cayeux-sur-Mer connect via a wonderful steam train. Somehow, despite their attractiveness, they have not succumbed tourist traps. Here, we feel France from its most beautiful side and enjoy again the fresh moules-frites (mussels and fries).

Change of Plans

The tide is unfavorable for cruising to Fécamp and Honfleur, so we opt for the always approachable Le Havre. Because the marina is so big, we’re almost alone. The sea is close to our outdoor pontoon, so the waves of the passing ships rock us to sleep.

We pick up our rental car and drive to the Rouen Cathedral, which owes its fame, not least of all, to the 33 paintings comprising Claude Monet’s series of pictures created in different lighting conditions from 1892 to 1894, a highlight in Monet’s oeuvre. We encounter paintings at every turn because, in many places in Normandy, there lived poor, now world-famous painters. Often, their pictures are informational signposts. This helps you see the artist’s perspective.

We next voyage to St.Vaast-la-Hougue and reach the lively harbor just as the gates open. There is still room at the visitor pontoon, and various English flags indicate that the eastern tip of the Cotentin peninsula is very popular with the British.

We leave St.Vaast the next morning. The weather is wonderful. We head for Cherbourg before the weather turns. At Marina Port de Chantereyne, our scheduled berth was occupied by its owner that evening. But the harbor officials make up for their oversight with a much better berth next to the harbor office. The city is just a short walk away.

Croatia Awaits

Cherbourg is located at the northern end of the Cotentin peninsula. It’s the second-closest connection to England after Calais and where the World War II D-Day Normandy landings took place; Utah Beach is not far away. The fortifications of the Atlantic Wall on the huge flat sandy beaches are still present today, and many museums and events are reminiscent of historical events.

We’re here on the 73rd anniversary of the landing, and there’s a little celebration in Quinéville with military music, and historic military vehicles, tanks and uniforms—most under the American flag. Two speeches in French and English recall the events of yesteryear but also reference the threat posed by today’s terrorism. The German flies and we hear the national anthem and Beethoven’s Ode to Joy. Anyone expecting a one-sided celebration would be pleasantly surprised by the inclusivity. Before World War II, Cherbourg was the largest European gateway to the New World. The RMS Titanic stopped here before its fateful journey.

Despite the massive destruction in the World War II, a lot of history was preserved or restored. That includes the former nuclear submarine Le Redoutable, which could remain underwater for 70 days, was in service for 40 years and never fired any of its 16 atomic rockets.

Out at Cap de la Hague, the storm-ridden sea makes us happy to be safe in the harbor. Just south at Nez de Jobourg, we stop at the Auberge des Grottes and enjoy local specialties and spectacular views of the sea as far as the northernmost Channel Island, Alderney. After several days, the storm over the Atlantic begins to slow down, and we embark on the next great adventure: the Channel Islands.

By Thomas Kittel, Southern Boating October 2018

Charter in Tahiti

A dream charter in Tahiti will stir your senses

Ahh, Tahiti. The word itself elicits images of turquoise waters, swaying palm trees and dramatic vistas that are so camera-friendly, they’re always ready for a close-up. You can almost hear the song Bali Ha’i from the Rodgers and Hammerstein musical South Pacific play in the background. A charter in Tahiti is a bucket list item for many but crossed off only by a fortunate few.

Tahiti is one of the Society Islands of French Polynesia, and at 16 degrees south latitude, it’s in the middle of the Pacific Ocean and thousands of miles from anywhere. It’s a place for every one of your senses: the sight of aquamarine water and swaying palm trees; the sound of Polynesian music and crashing surf; the taste of tropical fruits; the smell of tropical flowers, and the feel of the sun’s warmth on your skin while your toes dig into sand the color and texture of sugar.

Year-round temps are steady at about 85 degrees, and the tide is about a foot. The people let you get away with speaking English or mangled French, but any attempt to speak Tahitian is much appreciated. You’ll hear Ia ora na (hello) in every shop, restaurant, beach shack, and bar, so it’s a good way to start your new musical Tahitian vocabulary.

Dreamy Dining

After landing on Tahiti proper, you’ll still need to take a puddle-jump flight to the island of Raiatea where the charter bases are located, but be sure to take a day before or after your charter to experience Tahiti Nui and its municipal morning market in Papeete. This two-story-wonder market has it all, from fish to flowers and souvenirs to soap. There’s even the Tahitian version of a food court with kiosks selling baguette sandwiches, prepared curries, poisson cru (marinated fish similar to ceviche), and French pastries.

Tahitian cuisine marries fresh island fare like mangoes and mahi-mahi with vanilla beans or exotic spices. Add some French flare with great wine, cheese, and abundant fresh baguettes, and your taste buds will never want to go home. In the evening, have dinner at les roulottes (food trucks) at the port. Each truck has a specialty: Chinese, fish, crepes, pizzas, and more. No alcohol is served, but it’s the cheapest dinner you’ll find, and the atmosphere is a welcoming mix of sunburned cruisers and locals who come with the whole family.

Raiatea

Maeva (welcome) to your yacht charter starting on Raiatea, the “Sacred Island”, a 45-minute flight from Papeete. Provisioning is done in Uturoa, Raiatea’s main town. When you book your charter, opt for a catamaran because the water is “skinny,” especially around the motus (islands of the fringing reefs)—so an extra foot under your keels does wonders for your confidence. Take a good look at the charts because this is marker-to-marker navigation and in French Polynesia, it’s not “red-right-returning.”

The islands of Raiatea and Taha’a share a fringing reef so it’s easy to stay in protected waters for the first day. Head north an hour from the base to Hurepiti Bay on Taha’a, the “Vanilla Island.” Here, Noah Plantier runs Vanilla Tours, a great land excursion on a 4×4 truck. A demonstration of vanilla pollination is a highlight as is feeding coconuts to chickens (they’re crazy for the stuff).

Upon request, Noah also provides noni juice, the fruit of a tree in the coffee family. It’s purported to be a miracle cure and a fountain of youth, but before you drink up, understand that the stuff tastes like a mix of laundry water and spoiled milk. Oh, what price is vitality!

Mementos Abound

Taha’a is also black pearl central, so a visit to a “farm” like Champon is a must. Nobody gets away from a pearl display case without being a few Polynesian francs lighter. These hypnotic wonders are unique to this part of the world, so investing in one—or several—is the best possible memento of your South Pacific charter.

If you have more than a week, make a run to the island of Huahine first. Exit Taha’a’s reef via one of the well-marked passes like To’ahotu and make the 22-mile crossing. It’s a worthwhile trip because Huahine is one of the least inhabited islands with shades of water that defy description. You can enter through either Avamoa or Avapehi pass and anchor near the town of Fare. Rent a bike to explore the island. Ride to the northern tip to visit the stone fish traps in Lac Maeva, the many maraes (religious sites), and the sacred, blue-eyed eels in the freshwater river that untangle their six-foot bodies to chase down a bit of canned tuna.

A trip back to Raiatea provides time to explore the island before heading on to Bora Bora. On the east side of Fa’aroa Bay on the east side, you can dinghy or standup paddleboard on a river between taro fields that are surrounded by bushes of exotic flowers, their scent intoxicating in the still air.

At times, the river gets so narrow and shallow that you may have to get out and walk, pulling the dink or board behind you. Nearby, in Onoa Bay, is Marea Taputapuatea, one of the largest spiritual sites in French Polynesia. Many of the stone temple outlines have been rebuilt to preserve the civilization that resided here a thousand years ago. Then, drop anchor on the western side of Taha’a close to the Paipai Pass to get an early morning start for the crossing to Bora Bora.

Lure of the Lore

According to ancient Tahitians, Raiatea is the mother island and Bora Bora is her firstborn. Bora is very camera friendly and is exactly like the brochures you’ve ogled at the travel agency. You can see Mount Otemanu for miles, Bora’s peak that juts out from the center of her lagoon. But Bora is a deceptive siren. The only way to enter safely is via Teavanui Pass on the west side to avoid her treacherous reef where the breaking, white water pounds day and night. Once inside the reef, head to the dock in the village of Vaitape for ice and Hinano (local beer) at Chin Lee’s market. From here, you have two choices: a cheeseburger in paradise at the Bora Bora Yacht Club or a mooring for the night at Bloody Mary’s, a palapa-style restaurant with great fish and sand floors where shoes are optional.

In the morning, it’s time for the 90-minute motor to the back of the lagoon. Go while the sun is high in the sky and study your charts closely. Keep the green markers toward the reef and red markers to the island, and watch for the doglegs that confuse the unsuspecting charterer. Binoculars and the depth sounder will become your best friends, and be sure to have the hook down before the sun gets low and the glare of the water blocks your ability to read the depth by the water color. During this trip, it’s easy to become obsessed with Otemanu’s 2,300-foot peak that dominates every postcard. Keep a camera on deck because that view is addictive from every angle.

Secret Spots

Few people know about the drift snorkel at the southeastern tip of Bora’s fringing motus. Pull the dinghy onto the beach and walk (wearing water shoes) to the windward edge of the reef and then drift back with the current. Fish and rays dart around in the nooks and crannies of this underwater garden. But the star attraction is the clams with their multi-colored iridescent mantles that burrow into the coral heads. Farther up the island you can catch a glimpse of giant manta rays early in the morning.

I’ve visited French Polynesia six times, but I never cross it off my bucket list. If I’m lucky enough to be swinging on the hook looking up at the Southern Cross overhead, well then, I’m lucky enough.

By Zuzana Prochazka, Southern Boating November 2018

Photos courtesy of the Tahiti Tourism Board and Zuzana Prochazka

Turks and Caicos

The Turks and Caicos are waiting for you… and so are their ponies. And puppies.

He said, “Facebook it, Twitter it, whatever it is you all use, use it. Turks and Caicos is open and ready for business. People don’t know we’ve recovered. Show them we have!”
Those were the words of Ian McLeod, Operations Director of Ocean Club Resorts in Turks and Caicos, to a group of travel writers (myself included) in December. He’s not wrong in his criticism. We’re living in a time where reporters mix up Bermuda and Barbuda on national television, so it can be understandably difficult for cruisers to know which islands in the British West Indies and the Caribbean have recovered from Hurricanes Irma and Maria, and which have not.

McLeod encouraged our group of writers to extensively document everything on our visit to show how well the island had weathered and recovered from the unprecedented storms of 2017. “There was no electricity on the property, so I made my way to the airport to check on the flight status to get guests off the island. And all of a sudden, here they come,” he says, referring to the British aid and recovery workers, who arrived at the Providenciales International Airport. “It was an incredible thing to witness.”

I must admit, I was taken aback at how green and abundant the landscape looked as I took my initial taxi ride across the island of Providenciales, known locally as Provo, to Ocean Club West. My perceptions prior to arrival were as McLeod had feared. I had assumed I’d be traveling to a decimated island ruined by hurricanes. I asked our driver, Virgil, of Virgil’s Taxi Service, if all the vegetation had been destroyed during the
storm. “Most everything was gone,” he said. “It was brown or it was blown away.” But less than three and a half months later, the greenery and life have returned to the small island chain. Now, Turks and Caicos are just waiting on the return of visitors and tourists,
and when they do make the inevitable return, they will find a haven of relaxation at both of Ocean Club Resorts’ locations on the island.

“We’re unique in that you can stay at one resort but enjoy the amenities of two,” said Nathaniel ‘Nat’ Rigby, Ocean Club West’s Resident Manager. He would know—Nat started
his career at the original Ocean Club before moving to Ocean Club West when it opened in the late 1990s, and he’s been there ever since. It’s easy to see why he stayed on. The two Ocean Club properties are located directly on picturesque Grace Bay Beach, just a 15-minute walk apart on one of the friendliest islands in the Caribbean.

The suites at Ocean Club Resorts are also unique. With full suites of varying sizes and configurations, you’d be hard-pressed to find an accommodation ill-suited to your needs. Each suite comes fully equipped with a kitchen or kitchenette and a washer/dryer combo. The airy floor plans provide sweeping views of the beach, pool or gardens, and innumerable windows let in ample sunshine that bounces off whitewashed ceilings. Accommodations include studios as well as one-, two-, and three-bedroom layouts. With
approximately 90 units per property, the overall feel is intimate and friendly without feeling small. The flowing layout of the pools and gardens offers an experience akin to your own private oasis, and the sprawling expanse of beach ensures you’ll always find a place to relax under a signature pink umbrella.

More than one location also means more than one place to eat. Ocean Club West boasts Solana, an alfresco dining experience complete with a sushi bar and rotating menu. For those who see no reason to leave the comforts of your beach towel, beachside service is
available during lunch. Order the Drunken Lobster while you relax in the sun.

The dinner menu changes, and you’ll find an Asian-fusion vibe, carefully crafted by restaurateur Ajay Vyas, who also manages three other island restaurants. Solana standouts include the grilled lobster tail and the seared grouper, but save room for the mango cheesecake.

If you’re feeling up for a ride, borrow a complimentary beach cruiser from the lobby of Ocean Club West and bike over to The Cabana Bar and Grill at Ocean Club for lunch. Cabana Bar and Grill offers an open-air dining experience for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. For a more formal setting, take the free shuttle to Ocean Club and dine at Opus Wine Bar & Grille. Treat yourself to a bottle of one of the many fine wines and a menu chock-full of seasonal Caribbean flavors. You won’t be disappointed by any of locally sourced seafood dishes or the atmosphere; trees wrapped in string lights cast long shadows to create
an ethereal dining experience.

The warm, clear waters of Turks and Caicos practically beg to be explored. Leave your boat in the slip and, instead, climb aboard the S/V Atabeyra for sailing, snorkeling and island hopping. First stop is to Princess Alexandra National Park, a conservation area off Provo’s northern coast. You’ll see plenty of fish in the preserve and dolphins if you’re lucky. Captain Matt and his crew have been sailing Atabeyra for several years and provide you with all the necessities for a day on the water: snorkel, fins, and rum punch. From there, it’s off to explore the island chain meandering up the coast and the shallow waters of Fort George Cay. Wade for sand dollars, search for sponges or collect shells. You’ll end the day salty, sandy and happy.

You’ll be equally as salty and happy if you choose an excursion at Provo Ponies, a local horse rescue turned trail ride. Provo Ponies started rescuing island horses more than 15 years ago and once they regained their strength, a business was born. Group rides are offered twice daily or you can opt for a private outing. Ride the ponies to Long Bay Beach and prepare to get wet; the horses love to get in the water to cool off.

Post-ponies, quench your thirst at Da Conch Shack—really more of a large beach bar than a shack, imbued with rum and relaxation. The menu is extensive, but who are we kidding? Get a pitcher of punch and order some cracked conch, conch salad, and the island’s best conch fritters. You’ll be invited to the weekly “Hump and Bump” party and if at all possible, you should attend to mingle with visitors and locals alike.

Salt Mills Plaza is the place to buy your requisite Turks and Caicos souvenir t-shirts and jewelry, but it’s also home to Potcake Place—a puppy rescue. Potcakes—a local term for the old food baked into the bottom of pots and pans—are a mixed-bag breed of local dogs. When litters are found roaming, locals call the not-for-profit rescue, which takes them in to find them homes. Tourists and locals can visit the (adorable) puppies, take them for walks on the beach and ultimately adopt them. Now, there are numerous potcakes in the U.S. and Canada, brought by local couriers from the island to their new homes.

On our last night on the island, a writer in our group recalled an earlier conversation about the way the island had recovered from the hurricane so well with the help of the British government. “Well, maybe,” Nat said, sipping his Campari and soda. “But really it was the locals. The way they came together and helped to rebuild, I’ve never seen anything like it. If you needed ice, if you needed fuel, someone would help you out.”

I wouldn’t have expected anything less from the people of this island community, who are intent on rehabilitating ponies, puppies, and as it turns out, each other.

Cruiser Resources for Turks and Caicos

Blue Haven Marina
An official port of entry, open for both short- and long-term berthing in Turks and Caicos.
Leeward Settlement TKCA 1ZZ
bluehavenmarinatci.com
1.855.756.7519

Ocean Club
118 Grace Bay Road
Grace Bay Beach, Providenciales
oceanclubresorts.com

Ocean Club West
54 Bonaventure Crescent
Grace Bay Beach, Providenciales
oceanclubresorts.com

Provo Ponies
32 Dolphin Lane, Providenciales
provoponies.com

Potcake Place
Salt Mills Plaza, Grace Bay
potcakeplace.com

Sail Atabeyra
Leeward Settlement TKCA 1ZZ
suncharters.tc

Da Conch Shack
Blue Hills Road, Providenciales
daconchshack.com

Story and Photos by Erin Brennan, Southern Boating February 2018

Cruise into a Healthy New Year

New Year, New You? These 7 waterfront resorts will help you cruise into a healthy new year.

Across the nation on January 2nd, people swap alcohol for seltzer water, ditch fried food for leafy greens and flood into gym parking lots throughout the day with eager resolve. It’s no secret that prioritizing health and fitness is the most common New Year’s resolution. By the second week in February, however, statistics indicate that up to 80 percent of gym attendance has dropped off. Indeed, new habits can be difficult to maintain, especially when work and social schedules resume their frenetic pace. If you’re a cruiser who has committed to healthier goals in 2018, staying in resort-marinas with fitness facilities will support your healthy, new lifestyle. We’ve scoured the coast for resorts that offer health and wellness initiatives to keep you in tip-top shape during your voyages. Fitness should be fun, and these resorts intend to make 2018 your healthiest, most enjoyable (cruising) healthy new year yet.

THE BAHAMAS

Atlantis Paradise Island Resort
This world-class oceanfront facility on beautiful Paradise Island leaves nothing to be desired. Not only does the 10,000-square-foot fitness center have the latest cardio and
strength training equipment, it also offers an impressive lineup of group instruction, including yoga, Pilates, spinning, and barre classes with certified professionals in the full-service Pilates studio. A grassy courtyard and yoga pavilion provide ample space for stretching, walking and relaxation as well as a full basketball court, tennis courts
and a 4-lane, 25-meter lap pool for those who want an outdoor health boost. After a workout, de-stress and detox in the relaxation lounge and steam showers. If you didn’t
pack appropriately, the Pro Shop supplies apparel and equipment. Daily passes can be purchased for guests over the age of 16. Personal trainers are also available for groups
of up to four for 60-minute sessions. Open 6AM-8PM.

FOR FITNESS
One Casino Drive
Paradise Island, Bahamas
242-363-3000, ext. 65246
atlantisbahamas.com/thingstodo/activities/fitnesscenter

FOR RESERVATIONS
242-363-6068
atlantisbahamas.com/rooms/atlantismarina

Valentines Resort and Marina

A new fitness center is now open to guests daily from sunrise to sunset. The full line-up of Body-Solid cardio and strength and conditioning equipment will keep your whole crew’s fitness goals on track. Private fitness classes, personal training sessions or group
classes in yoga, Pilates, beach boot camps, and circuit training are also available inside the Valentines fitness center, on the beach and even on your boat with renowned trainer Tamara Lorey.

FOR FITNESS
Box One, Harbour Island
North Eleuthera, Bahamas
242-470-1059
tdw.tam@gmail.com
valentinesresort.com/experiences/fitness/

FOR RESERVATIONS
866-389-6864
or 954-463-4519
reservations@valentinesresort.com
valentinesresort.com/getting-here/arrivingby-boat/

FLORIDA

Longboat Key Club Resort
In sunny Sarasota, Florida, the 2,500-square-foot fitness facilities at Longboat Key provide the full gamut of cardio and strength equipment and an area for stretching. An impressive lineup of fitness and wellness classes includes outdoor and inside options in the Mind & Motion fitness studio. Classes include Pilates, beach yoga or tai chi, spinning, Zumba, and beach boot camps. Professional trainers offer personal lessons, one-on-one
stretch sessions, training for enhanced performance and sports’ focuses, and water fitness
classes. Guests must be over the age of 16 to enjoy the facilities or accompanied by a parent if between the ages of 12-16. Hours vary by season.

FOR FITNESS
361 Longboat Club Road
Longboat Key, FL 34228
(941) 383-2080
longboatkeymarina.com/fitness-center

FOR RESERVATIONS
941-383-8383
longboatkeymarina.com/marina

SOUTH CAROLINA

The Beach Club at Charleston Harbor

Achieve your fitness goals in ultimate luxury at this stunning destination resort open from 6AM to 10PM. The first-floor fitness center features traditional cardio machines such as the elliptical and treadmills, along with strength training equipment, free weights, and cycles. The fitness facility also offers Hammam treatments—an Arabian body treatment with a specialized deep-cleansing black soap and steam—for a unique post-workout
experience. In addition to the essential gym equipment, take advantage of the onsite bicycle rentals, lawn games, beach yoga classes, and recreational activities to keep you moving; there is no excuse to fall off your fitness bandwagon here.

FOR FITNESS
20 Patriots Road, Mount Pleasant
South Carolina, 29464
843-856-0028
charlestonharborresort.com/amenities.htm#anchorSpa

FOR RESERVATIONS
Charleston Harbor marina reservations:
843-284-7062
charlestonharborresort.com/charleston-harbor-marina.html

NEW YORK

Baron’s Cove, Sag Harbor, NY
This resort is sure to keep you on track with a full range of fitness and recreation amenities. For a traditional workout, cardio and weight machines are available during regular business hours of 8AM-7PM. But if you arrive late, hours can be extended upon
request. In addition to a standard gym, the fresh air recreation center boasts stunning waterfront views of Sag Harbor as you knock off your daily exercise checklist. Baron’s Cove offers guests complimentary bikes along a walking/running trail through the
marina or directly into town. Hikes into Mashomack Preserve on Shelter Island are also a stunning highlight while getting your heart rate up, but make sure to check the route with the resort concierge. Enjoy a leisurely round of tennis or schedule a lesson with the onsite
professional, and for yoga or light cardio, head to the beach before heading to your next destination. Conveniently moor your boat 0.2 miles away at Sag Harbor Cove Marina.

FOR FITNESS
31 W. Water Street
Sag Harbor, NY 11963
844-227-6672
baronscove.com/resortlife

FOR RESERVATIONS
631-725-1605
info@sagharborcove.com;
sagharborcoveyachtclub.com/

Montauk Yacht Club
Enjoy your classic workout routine with the fully equipped fitness center’s cardio and weight equipment, head outside with the whole family for recreational fitness on the volleyball, tennis or bocce ball courts, or use their complimentary paddleboard and bicycle rentals. Get your swim laps in from one of three heated pools—two outdoor and one
indoor—and enjoy a postworkout session in the sauna. For instructional classes, the onsite tennis professional offers lessons, clinics and tennis aerobics, while the professional surf and paddle board instructors will give you a fun workout on the water. Be sure to check for seasonal availability for certain resort amenities. Hours are 10AM-6PM.

FOR FITNESS
32 Star Island Road
Montauk, New York 11954
888-692-8668 or 631-668-3100

FOR RESERVATIONS
631-668-7702
marina@montaukyachtclub.com;
montaukyachtclub.com/marina/

MARYLAND

Hyatt Regency Chesapeake Bay Golf Resort, Spa & Marina

The Sago Spa & Salon Fitness Center at the Hyatt Regency Chesapeake Bay is conveniently located on the lobby level of the resort above the winter garden pool. It features the standard cardio and strength equipment guests would expect at any fully resourced gym, along with personal trainers, workout towels, water, and fruit for a full upscale resort spa experience. The grounds also feature a downloadable jogging/walking map for outdoor recreation and private or group yoga classes. Hours are 9AM-7PM Sunday through Thursday and open until 8 PM Friday and Saturday.

FOR FITNESS
100 Heron Blvd. at Route 50
Cambridge, Maryland, 21613
410-901-6590
hyatt.com/corporate/spas/Sago-Spa-And-Salon/en/fitness

FOR RESERVATIONS
410-901-1234
conciergechesa@hyatt.com
chesapeakebay.regency.hyatt.com/en/hotel/our-hotel/marina.html

By Christine Carpenter Southern Boating January 2018

Warm Weather Wonders

February can be the cruelest month. Warm weather may be around the corner, but winter persists. If you’re looking for an easy warm weather vacation, you’re in luck. We collected our top five winter getaways.

Florida: Playa Largo Resort

Caribbean: Cuba

The Bahamas: Chub Cay

South America: Galapagos

Gulf: Tarpon Springs

 

Go South for Scuba

If you’re a scuba diving enthusiast, your daydreams may feature a yacht, land-based luxury, racing fish-filled currents, calmer conditions, staggering depths, sunlight-filled shallows, inquisitive marine life or probably some combination of all of these. Whatever your preferred base and dive profile, add these six diving locations in the Southern  Hemisphere to your underwater bucket list.

Raja Ampat, Indonesia

Off Indonesia’s West Papua province, the 15,000-square-mile Raja Ampat archipelago has tremendous marine biodiversity: more than 75 percent of the world’s hard coral species, half of the world’s soft corals, 1,500 fish species, and 700 mollusk species.
Another heartwarming feature is its status as Indonesia’s first shark sanctuary; sea turtles, rays and dugongs are also protected.

While scuba sites are superb throughout the archipelago, Misool in the south has some of the best. Explore swim-throughs and say hello to Papuan scorpionfish at the Dunia Kecil (“small world”) site. Become mesmerized by otherworldly soft coral gardens at Whale Rock, and meet multitudes of fish—barracuda, Spanish mackerel and more—flying through Karang  Bayangan’s currents. Between dives, ease into a lake filled with ethereal jellyfish, their sting so mild it’s undetectable.

WHEN TO GO
October – April

DIVE CHARTER
Beautifully crafted, 167-foot Dunia Baru has seven ensuite cabins and is an ideal base for remote dive adventures. duniabaru.com

Ari Atoll, Maldives

For wonders on a grand scale, head to Ari Atoll, one of 26 natural atolls in the remote and vulnerable 1,190-island Maldives archipelago. Whale sharks cruise its outer edge year-round; if you’re lucky, you’ll swim close to the planet’s biggest fish, awed by their
might and magnificence.  However, this atoll has smaller delights as well. At the Hafsa Thila dive site, for example, hundreds of psychedelically colored anemones and anemonefish create a striking dream world. At nearby sites, giant moray eels, sea turtles, spotted eagle rays, and fish—fusiliers, butterflyfish, tangs, parrotfi sh, and more—add to the enchantment. Migratory reef manta rays are also common, and one manta event is well worth a detour. Between June and November, at high tide during the full and new
moon, up to 200 hungry rays gather for plankton feeding frenzies in Baa Atoll’s Hanifaru Bay, so add this to your scuba itinerary, if possible.

WHEN TO GO
Year-round, although seas tend to be calmest in March.

DIVE CHARTER
128-foot Four Seasons Explorer has 10 staterooms and one suite. Charter her or book a place on a scheduled cruise. fourseasons.com/maldivesfse

Christmas Island, Australia

With a narrow fringing reef harboring 600 species of fish, 88 species of pristine coral, caves, and steep walls plummeting to the deep sea, remote Christmas Island—in the Indian Ocean and closer to Indonesia than the Australian mainland—offers a bounty
of dive sites…64 altogether. These include the Rhoda Wall, which begins at 60 feet and descends to 10 times that; Daniel Roux, a lively coral outcrop; and the Thunderdome
and Thundercliff caves. The former cave has a dark, air-filled chamber in its inner reaches; rise for a breath here and let your imagination toy with its chair-shaped natural formation known as “Neptune’s Seat.” Does a sea goddess rule from here?

WHEN TO GO
November to April for whale sharks; November for the red crab migration; and May to October if you’re visiting via yacht.

LANDBASED EXPLORATION
Christmas Island Wet’n’Dry Adventures offers daily dive trips. divingchristmas.com

Similan and Surin Islands, Thailand

To sample Thailand’s best scuba diving, venture into the Andaman Sea, about 40 miles west of Khao Lak, where 11 granite boulder islands (the Similans) attract boatloads of divers and snorkelers, thanks to the good visibility, intriguing underwater boulders, coral gardens, and other marine life.

Hin Muan Deaw (“whole roll of film rock”), a sea fan and soft coral-covered rock near islands No. 5 and No. 6, and West Ridge (near No. 10), which features a manta cleaning station, are just a couple of must-visit sites. The area’s most exquisite dive, though, is 40 miles north, in Mu Ko Surin National Park. Here, Richelieu Rock—a flat, horseshoe-shaped, sedimentary limestone rock draped in pink, red and purple corals—rewards divers
with a dizzying display of fish as well as turtles, manta rays, moray eels, and scorpionfish.

WHEN TO GO 
The Similan Islands are only open to visitors from November to mid-May with the best visibility between December and March.

DIVE CHARTER
Dunia Baru can include the Similan Islands on charters traveling to or from Myanmar’s Merguiarchipelago. duniabaru.com

Rainbow Reef, Fiji

Fiji is blessed with more than 4,000 square miles of coral reef and more than 1,000 fish species. Dive sites are scattered throughout the 333-island archipelago; however, make Rainbow Reef, in the narrow Somosomo Strait between Vanua Levu and Taveuni, your first stop. Here, about 20 scuba sites are spread along its southern section. The abundance of soft coral is the result of water rushing through the channel during tidal shifts, thus providing nutrients for marine life.

The Great White Wall—a scenic vertical wall of soft, white corals—is the most famous site and is best experienced during low slack tide, when the current is minimal and the soft corals are visible. After descending to 49 feet, you’ll enter a swim-through filled with soldierfish and fairy basslets. Exiting at about 82 feet, turn left and begin drifting along the spectacular wall, which extends to depths of more than 130 feet. Remember to move away from the wall at least once to properly witness its grandeur.

WHEN TO GO
April – October; check with your dive guide for the best tidal window for the Great White Wall.

LANDBASED DIVE LUXURY
Laucala Island, a 40-minute boat ride from the Great White Wall, offers diving day trips and glamorous villas. laucala.com

Lady Elliot Island, Australia

If close scuba encounters with manta rays and sea turtles sound like your version of heaven, book a trip to Lady Elliot Island, a coral cay on the southernmost Great Barrier Reef. Expect to fall in love as reef manta rays dance elegantly around cleaning stations such as Lighthouse Bommie; for the ultimate treat, visit in the Austral winter and early
spring, when humpback whales migrate along Australia’s East Coast. Their song, audible on nearly every dive, will fill your senses. Keep your fins crossed that one swims past before you surface.

WHEN TO GO
July and August

LANDBASED EXPLORATION
Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort offers dives twice daily. ladyelliot.com.au

DIVE CHARTER
Ocean Alliance represents a number of yachts that charter on the Great Barrier Reef. oceanalliance.com

Story and photos by Kara Murphy, Southern Boating September 2017

Coastal City Wish List

What’s on your coastal city wish list? There is something inexplicably better about a city on the water. It could be the scenic views or the attitudes of the locals or it could be the access to boating.

I’ve been lucky to travel to a lot of coastal cities. That’s in part because I grew up on a tiny island, went to college in a coastal city (Go Seahawks!), and worked as a stewardess on a yacht that cruised the ICW from Annapolis to Miami, and then had the opportunity to work in The Bahamas. I got a pretty good head start on the coastal city circuit!

But there are more cities I dream of visiting. I still get the stunned, chin-on-the-floor look from most when I say I’ve never been to Charleston, SC. That look is usually followed up with a “What? You have to go!”

Where else do I have to go? Let me know in the comments.

Seattle, Washington
What I’ve heard: Eco-friendly, scenic and very boater-friendly. Bring a raincoat. Go fishing or at least eat some salmon.

 

 

Charleston, South Carolina
What I’ve heard: “You haven’t been to Charleston? It’s beautiful and so charming! It’s the perfect Southern city! You have to go. You have to GO!” …and so on and so on forever.

 

 

Captiva Island, Florida
What I’ve heard: Apparently no stoplights to see, but some of the best fishing and boating in the state of Florida. Boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. I also heard it’s physically impossible to leave without a souvenir shell.

 

 

 

Galveston, Texas
What I’ve heard: Rife with retro amusements, historic houses, and spectacular fishing. There’s also a museum that created from an older offshore drilling rig—that has to be a must-see.

 

 

Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin
What I’ve heard: Go in the summer because you’ll eventually get hot enough to dip your feet in the clearest water you’ve ever seen. Also cheese curds. Did I mention cheese curds?  I <3 cheese.

 

 

I know there are hundreds, perhaps thousands of coastal cities I’m missing. What’s on your coastal city wishlist? Tell us in the comments— you could win a bottle of Oak & Cane rum! 

Terra Incognita: Antarctica

A voyage to Antarctica and South Georgia Island reveals an otherworldly seascape of sculpted icebergs, forgotten whaling stations and toddler-sized penguins.

Beyond completing The Great Loop—the circumnavigation of the eastern half of the United States—and then embarking for a journey around the world, cruising the Southern Ocean is one of the last great maritime adventures. But if your yacht isn’t equipped for such expeditions, you can still appreciate the otherworldly landscapes of Antarctica and South Georgia Island. More than a dozen expedition cruise ships—some are converted Russian icebreakers while others are custom-built luxury yachts—spend the Austral summer from November to February exploring the White Continent. During this time, cruisers are treated to almost perpetual sunlight and temperatures that can be surprisingly mild although blizzards can erupt at any time. Home port in the season is Ushuaia, Argentina, a former penal colony at the tip of Tierra del Fuego.

It usually only takes a day or two to cross the famous Drake Passage between South America and the Antarctic Peninsula, and the weather can be unpredictable, with captains joking they’ll either get the “Drake Lake” or the “Drake Shake.” Some ships will make a first stop east of Argentina in the Falkland Islands where tourists can explore one of the farthest-flung corners of the British Empire. Barely 3,000 local “kelpers” make a living here: farming, raising sheep, cutting peat or working for the Crown. The infamous 1982 war between England and Argentina (who claim the islands as Las Malvinas) is long over, but relics remain—the scattered wreckage of a helicopter on a barren slope and the red skull-and-crossbones signs warning of minefields. Still, it’s a great place to stop for a pint at a pub in Port Stanley and make a call home from the red telephone booths.

The real excitement begins when ships cross the Antarctic Convergence, an invisible ring around the continent that is recognized as a political, biological and climatic boundary. Here the sea temperature readouts plunge from a relatively balmy 50F degrees to just above freezing. The most dramatic landscapes in Antarctica fortunately aren’t found in the heart of the continent (the South Pole itself is a flat, featureless ice plateau), but along the mountainous coast of the Antarctic Peninsula that marks first landfall for most ships.

A favorite landing spot here for many is Whaler’s Bay in the Deception Island caldera. Within this active volcano (it last erupted in 1969) are the remains of a Norwegian whaling station abandoned in the 1930s when whaling went from being a land-based to ship-based industry. You can hike along the black sand beaches inside of the crater, explore the massive whale-oil tanks and station buildings—some still have shelves full of rusted cans of food. Scattered here and there, uncovered by the fierce winds, are the weathered coffins of unfortunate sealers and whalers.

Other popular landings include Hannah Point on Livingston Island with its vast colonies of Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins. Flocks of giant petrels, aggressive and predatory birds that feed on penguins and carrion, wing overhead like hunting pterodactyls. Sprawled along the volcanic beaches are knots of elephant seals. Keep a close eye here on the nearby rock shelves, and among the lush Pearlwort (one of only two flowering plants in Antarctica—the other is Antarctic hair grass) you might spot unusual fern fossils and lumps of petrified wood. More than 25 million years ago Antarctica was covered with trees.

Most ships will try and land somewhere on the actual continent itself, sometimes at Esperanza Station, an Argentine base set up in 1951 that still houses a civilian population and holds the distinction of having the first native-born Antarctican person. Winds pile down here so viciously from nearby glaciers that the locals like to joke the base has the only flying penguins in Antarctica. There’s a small cafeteria and souvenir shop where you can buy ceramic penguin mugs, ashtrays and patches.

Beyond Antarctica and the Falklands is South Georgia Island. “Lands doomed by nature to perpetual frigidness: never to feel the warmth of the sun’s rays; whose horrible and savage aspect I have not words to describe.” That’s how Captain Cook described South Georgia Island in 1775. Because it sits below the Antarctic Convergence, South Georgia looks and feels more like Antarctica than other subantarctic islands such as the Falklands. The island is a towering massif of 2,000-meter ice-clad peaks broken off millions of years ago from the Andes. More than half the island is covered in permanent snow and ice, but the lush shores fronted by sand and hummock coasts abound with so many sea lions and penguins it’s often impossible to squeeze a zodiac ashore.

The main port has a beautiful museum featuring Shackleton artifacts as well as information on the Falkland Islands War (a submarine attacked here) and the local wildlife. This is where the oil rush started, not for gushing black crude but for lubricant found in marine mammals. The island went through three phases of ecological disaster: the fur sealing years from 1778 to 1908; elephant seals from 1900s to 1960s (a bull elephant seal could be boiled down for 170 liters or a barrel of oil); from 1904 to 1965 it was whaling (whale oil was used in everything from crayons and shoe polish to alcohol and perfume), and up to 90 percent of all whales were removed from the Southern Ocean. From the 1960s to now it’s fishing, mostly Patagonian tooth fish, squid and krill. Whaling shut down here in 1965, and slowly the whales came back—first the humpbacks, then the blue whales, then the fins and seis, and finally, the minke whales. Now Antarctica is officially a whale sanctuary (though Japan still hunts there).

Today, South Georgia is a sort of New Eden where the wildlife has been protected so long it has lost all fear of humans. Almost half a million King penguins breed on South Georgia. At three-feet tall, they are the largest of the four indigenous species. Five million Macaroni penguins and a quarter million Gentoos call the island home, together with 4,000 Chinstrap penguins.

Ships all call at Grytviken in the east arm of Cumberland Bay. Set up in 1904, the port became a bustling whaling town of 300 Norwegians. At full throttle it reduced 25 whales a day to their economic essentials: baleen for hoop skirts and umbrellas, oil for lamps and cosmetics, and lubrication. During the 1911-12 season, a 108-foot female blue whale was winched up and peeled like a banana by Norwegian flensers with knives the size of hockey sticks. She holds a place in the Guinness Book of World Records as the largest animal that ever lived. By the time Grytviken closed in 1965 it had processed 175,250 whales.

Today it’s a ghost town of ochre oil tanks and a fleet of beached whaling ships. Before exploring the ruins, pop in to the South Georgia Museum. At nearby King Edward Point, a huddle of prefabricated buildings shelter the only humans on South Georgia, a handful of scientists and the island’s administrator.

This is the best place to pay homage to Antarctic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton, the unflinching leader of the failed 1914 Imperial Trans-Antarctic expedition. When his ship Endurance was crushed by the Weddell Sea ice and his team of 22 men marooned on Elephant Island, Shackleton made a daring 800-mile open-boat journey to South Georgia only to find he landed on the uninhabited side of the island far from help. He and two companions made a grueling 36-hour climb up and over the mountains before arriving at the whaling station of Stromness and deliverance. Not a man was lost. When he died of a heart attack on another expedition in 1922 at Grytviken, he was buried at the whalers’ cemetery. If you make a pilgrimage to the cemetery, take a moment to drink a toast of whiskey at the granite headstone of “The Boss.”

Beyond Grytviken, ships often try to get visitors ashore at Gold Harbour. Here, below the Weddell Glacier, are grassy hummocks covered with thousands upon thousands of King and Gentoo penguins and fur seals. Not far away is Prion Island, another sought-after landing. If you’re fortunate enough to make it ashore here, you can see a colony of wandering albatross, one of the rarest seabirds. Eighteenth-century American naturalist Robert Cushman spotted one while sailing these waters and wrote the famous line, “I now belong to that higher cult of mortals, for I have seen the albatross.” The same can be said of those who have cruised these waters.

 — GETTING THERE —

Lindblad Expeditions, in partnership with National Geographic, has the most extensive cruise portfolio in Antarctica and includes luxury voyages that hit Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands. expeditions.com

For cruisers who want to skip the Drake Passage and get right to Antarctica, Natural Habitat Adventures is offering guests two opportunities to fly down as part of their Antarctica Sailing Expedition (or you can fly one way and cruise the Drake Passage the other leg). The trip departs from Punta Arenas, Chile. Once in Antarctica, guests explore aboard the 75-foot polar expedition sailboat Australis. nathab.com 

Story & photos by Had Davenport, Southern Boating Magazine February 2016

 

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