Half of the boaters who walk the planks at Boat Harbour Marina in Marsh Harbour, Abaco, to set sail for Guana Cay, Mano-War or any number of islands in the Abacos with Cruise Abaco, do not own a boat or yacht. The other half who may have their own boats choose to go chartering in The Bahamas because their craft is not suited to cross the Gulf Stream.
It might seem counter-intuitive that many active boaters are not boat owners, but Mark Gonsalves, the owner of charter company Cruise Abaco, says the Abacos are filled with many such enthusiasts and that they are the bread and butter of the charter industry. They don’t fly down on private planes to meet up with their mega yachts. They can’t take three months off to spend in Treasure Cay or Hope Town, and not just because they don’t own a second home in The Bahamas as yet. To travel with their families, believe it or not, some still need to take blocked vacation time.
By no means, however, are these cruisers novices on the water. They’ve chartered around the world, whether in the Chesapeake Bay or across Europe, says Gonsalves. They know boats, and they crave a destination that has the best and most modern boats the industry has to offer, one with modern facilities, happening beach bars, upscale restaurants, barefoot-style island food joints, events, and a diverse range of boating
activities. “Everyone wants the latest and greatest. They have dreams of owning their
own boats and they island hop looking at the different marinas. They charter a boat that
they might want to own one day. They are looking for everything the area has to offer,”
says Gonsalves.
Cue the Abacos: the boating capital of The Bahamas, where there is actually no need to bring your own boat. Whatever the reason, whether boaters want the convenience
of leaving their boat behind, or simply don’t own a boat, the Abacos not only has the highest concentration of marinas in The Bahamas, it undoubtedly has the highest concentration of charter boat availability.
Two of the largest international yacht charter companies—Moorings and Sunsail—operate in the Abacos, along with dozens of Bahamian charter companies. There is an abundance
of boats, from small 20-foot day rentals to large catamarans, sailboats and power yachts that are 60-foot plus, and they are all available for captained and barefoot charters. “There are more boats in the Abacos for charter availability because the demand is here. It is not [here only for the] summer but it is here year round, especially in the catamaran areas,” said Stephen Kappler, president of the Association of Bahamas Marinas.
Charter companies often design pre-planned cruise itineraries to make it easy for their clients. A seven-day cruise might include snorkeling in the Sandy Cay Park or the Fowl
Cay Underwater Park; beaching at Tahiti Beach; kayaking around the Tilloo Cay Banks; exploring local settlements like Hope Town and Green Turtle Cay; scuba diving on the Great Abaco Barrier Reef; fly fishing on the flats or deep sea fishing on the ocean side; and of course, bar hopping at Nippers on Guana Cay, the Tipsy Seagull Dockside Pub on Treasure Cay or Cracker P’s Bar and Grill on Lubbers Quarters Cay. On a charter itinerary, boaters with powerboat experience could seize the opportunity to learn how to sail on a single hull vessel or a catamaran.
The Sea of Abaco, a 62-mile saltwater lagoon, is where all of the activity takes place. This marine highway is sandwiched by mainland Great Abaco to the west and a chain of barrier islands running parallel to the east, and it’s easily accessible from the U.S. The Marsh Harbour airport has direct flights from six cities in Florida, including Tampa, West Palm Beach, Orlando, and Jacksonville and direct flights from Atlanta. Treasure Cay has direct flights from Fort Lauderdale, so the proximity factor makes it particularly attractive to boaters.
The boating industry of Abaco has also proven to be a feeder for the second home industry. Kappler, who is also president of the Treasure Cay Property Owners Association,
a residential community of 1,300 homes, says their research shows the average homeowner purchased a property in Treasure Cay after their fourth visit to the Abacos.
Because the Abacos is a unique multi-island destination with a vibrant boating culture and diverse activities, it will always be a draw for boaters who have that insatiable love
for the pristine waters only found in The Bahamas.
Navigational Tips for Chartering in The Bahamas:
Moorings at Lubbers Quarters Cay are free to use for charter companies on a first
come, first serve basis during full moon parties at Cracker P’s Bar and Grill.
When entering the White Sound channel toward Green Turtle Cay, boats that draw
more than six feet should avoid entering the channel at low tide.
The Little Harbour channel leading to the popular Pete’s Pub has gotten slightly
deeper. Previously marked for boats with 6 feet of draft, the sandy bottom channel at high tide can accommodate boats that draw up to 6’5″. Pete’s Pub operates 13
moorings in the area.
There is a hard rock bottom in front of the popular Staniel Cay Yacht Club that is reliably marked on charts. However, there have been several sailboats running aground. Boaters should follow their charts and pay close attention when entering this marina.
By Noelle Nicolls, Southern Boating February 2018
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF THE BAHAMA OUT ISLANDS PROMOTION BOARD
Once again, the readers of Southern Exposure DELIVERED. Thank you all so much for the pictures and videos of the famous swimming pigs. I had a blast looking through these wildly fun pig pictures and reminiscing about The Bahamas.
So without further ado, your user-submitted pig pics!
Follow the Leader
Coryne, from Intermarine, sent us the first four photos, including this dynamic duo.
Up close and personal
Coryne also sent this glamour shot.
Hate to see you go, love to watch you leave
“As a boat dealer every year we organize trips with our customers to explore different areas of the Bahamas,” said Coryne.
Taking a Dip
“The Exumas was our destination two years ago and we did enjoy swimming with the pigs.”
Come on aboard
“The Exumas remain one of my favorite places on earth- but for the unbelievably gorgeous islands, not because of the pigs!” — Ann Crumpton, Alabama.
Four’s a Crowd.
“Been there, done that,” said Capt. Mitchell of the s/v Vela Navis.
Missed Opportunity
“Too bad no one thought of making t-shirts,” continued Captian Mitchell. ” I would have bought one!”
Real Food
Winston from Southeast Salty Cruisers says, “It was so sweet, that after all the tourists get through feeding their leftovers, the piggy kiddos know where the real food is, with Mom!”
Underwater
Tony Ludovico, artist and conservationist, sent us this unique image.
Does this angle make me look fat?
Does this angle flatter my snout? Thanks to Robin Chesnie of Slipins for this image.
Hungry Pig
This little guy will need to eat a lot more to catch up to his island companions! Another fun shot from Robin of Slipins.
If you can’t fly, swim. We couldn’t resist the following video of everyone’s favorite swimming pigs.
If you’ve been to The Exumas in The Bahamas, you may have made the trip to see the swimming pigs. We saw it firsthand on our 2016 Swimsuit Shoot, and most claimed it to be the best part of the trip.
The pigs are a somewhat mysterious fixture on Big Major Cay, an uninhabited island. The island is also known as Pig Beach (obviously). How did they get there? No one really knows for sure. Some say they were left by a group of sailors, who planned to come back and cook them. Or that the pigs swam over from a shipwreck nearby. Some say it was pirates.
While the origins of the pigs may be murky, one thing is very clear: the pigs are a unique must-see.
Have you been to the Exumas and seen the swimming pigs firsthand? Tell us about your experience in the comments.
If you have pictures to prove it, send them to me, erin@southernboating.com, and I’ll post them in next week’s email. Oink, oink!
The secret may be out on these tropical getaways, but rest assured—you’ll still feel like you’re on your own private island because…well, some are private islands.
The only criterion for our list of hidden getaways is blue-green water, deserted white-sand beaches and solitude. Bonus points if you can arrive by boat and avoid air travel.
Whether it’s an uninhabited island in The Bahamas or a quiet stretch of Caribbean beach, these hidden hideaways are sure to please.
Kamalame Cay Bahamas
Kamalame Cay is a small barrier island located in Andros. With spectacular views of the Atlantic and copious natural attractions, Kamalame Cay has the feel of your own private island.
Lie on the beach with a book or try flats fishing, but whatever you do—enjoy it.
Nickmamed ‘Land of Reefs’, Carriacou is located in the southeastern Caribbean Sea, northeast of Grenada. The island boasts some of the best snorkeling and diving spots in the region.
You’ll surely find quiet and solitude in one of more than 33 dive sites, but be sure to bring a buddy.
This private island in the Bahamas has only six (yes, six) villas along sugar sand shores. Each private villa comes with its own boat and lessons on how to operate it. Over uninhabited 50 acres provide ample opportunities to relax and unwind.
Staniel Cay is an easy boat ride away if you began to yearn for the company of others.
An experienced couple shares their favored routes and their tips for anchoring in the Bahamas.
No matter how many times we cruise The Bahamas we cannot wait to return to its pristine beauty. Like many cruisers, we have our favorite routes and islands. Anchoring in the islands offers some unique challenges since bottom conditions vary widely—there is excellent sand but also scoured-out rocky channels, heavy grass, and thin sand over rock. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas.
Heavy grass fouls the anchor, and thin sand over rock doesn’t give the anchor a chance to dig in, but we generally find good holding. Entering some anchorages requires complete vigilance and attention to depths, but the payoff is well worth the effort of time and attention. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas.
The clean sandy beach at Bimini Beach Club. Photo: Chuck Baier.
A view from the Great Harbour Cay Beach Club. Photo: Chuck Baier.
An ocean view from N. Bimini Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
1. Our preferred route from Florida to The Bahamas is via Biminito clear Customs.
The most preferred spot to anchor is off the docks of the Big Game Club in Alice Town, where the marina offers dinghy access to town. The second is at the northern end of the harbor near the new resort and casino, Resorts World. As with any anchorage in The Bahamas, check to be sure the anchor is well set and be aware of strong currents in Bimini Harbor.
2. Upon departing the Bimini area, you’ll either head north to North Rock or south to North Cat Cay to cross onto the Great Bahama Bank.
Deeper-draft vessels will find better depths on the northerly route across. From Bimini, we head north to North Rock and then almost due east to Great Harbour on the northern end of the Berry Islands. Leaving at daybreak and heading across the banks puts you close enough to anchor and finish the trip the next morning (for slower vessels) or a long day to anchor at dusk for trawlers. The anchorage at Bullocks Harbor gives easy access to the settlement and the town dock for landing the dinghy. There is thick grass on the bottom, so look for a sandy patch to drop the anchor. Inside Hawksnest on the east side of Great Harbor Cay is a spectacular anchorage with miles of white sandy beaches. Soldier Cay, Hoffman’s Cay, White and Fowl Cay offer more solitude and exploration possibilities. Cruisers can easily spend a month or more just exploring the many anchorages throughout the Berry Islands.
3. Nassau on New Providence is the next port of call.
Anchoring in the harbor can be difficult since the current has scoured it clean, but there are a couple of sandy patches with fair holding just west of the bridge to Paradise Island or off the eastern channel near the Nassau Harbour Club. Be aware, however, that currents are strong and boat wakes are a problem. If you don’t need provisions or have already cleared in, we recommend anchoring at Rose Island located northeast of New Providence. It’s far away from everything but a good place to stage to head south into the Exumas.
Susan Landry combing the beach for a remembrance. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Watching a storm from a gazebo on Treasure Cay Beach at the Coco Beach Bar. Photo: Chuck Baier.
The intense colors of a storm on Treasure Cay Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
4. Your next destination will be the Exumas.
Anchorages are plentiful and each should be considered based on the how much wind protection you need and from what direction. The trip from Nassau or Rose Island to Allen’s Cay is about 28nm and takes you across the “dreaded” Yellow Banks. The banks, however, are not as formidable as some would suggest. Ensure you have the sun high overhead and someone positioned on the bow, flybridge or the mast for a good view of your path ahead. The coral heads are easily negotiated.
5. As you travel south in the Exumas your daily runs will be short.
Don’t miss any of the wonderful anchorages in the 100 or so miles to George Town. Some of the highlights are Allen’s Cay with its greedy iguanas, Norman’s Cay with its cozy inner anchorages, Warderick Wells—possibly the most beautiful place on earth—, Staniel Cay with its Thunderball Grotto of James Bond fame, and the swimming pigs of Big Majors Cay. Farther to the south is the settlement of Black Point, another friendly outpost, and Farmer’s Cay with its yacht club festivities. Between there and George Town are any number of remote locales to drop the hook. Deep-draft boats will likely exit at Galliot Cut to make for George Town, while shoal-draft vessels can travel along the inside to Rat Cay, Square Rock or Glass Cay Cuts before heading out into Exuma Sound for George Town at Conch Cay.
Many boats just make for George Town and plant themselves there for the duration. Once you get there, it’s easy to see why. There are activities every day on the beaches on Stocking Island, places to provision ashore and new friends to make. Anchor off Stocking Island in the various locations—Church Bay, Volleyball or Sand Dollar Beaches—or just off the town in Kidd Cove for provisioning or laundry. Or, try Red Shanks behind Crab Cay on the south side of the harbor. Settling in Georgetown is one of our favorite tips for anchoring in the Bahamas
6. Departing George Town, head back north in the Exuma chain to Warderick Wells again as it deserves two stops.
From there exit Warderick Cut and make the run northeast to Powell Point on Eleuthera. Head around and into Rock Sound and anchor just off of the settlement.
A spectacular view of the ocean from a beach house deck on Sip Sip Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Anchored on the public dock at Green Turtle Cay. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Dinghies tied to the dock at Abaco. Photo: Chuck Baier.
A conch shell pile in Gregory Town. Photo: Chuck Baier.
7. From Rock Sound north there are any number of great anchorage stops.
This includes South Palmetto Point, Governors Harbour, Hatchet Bay, and Spanish Wells. None of the anchorages are very far apart making for easy trips. The area around Spanish Wells is deserving of at least a few days at exploration due to its interesting history. Take the ferry to Harbour Island to explore Dunmore Town.
8. From Spanish Wells make your way north to the Abacos.
The crossing to Little Harbor from either Spanish Wells or Egg Island ranges from 45 to 50nm. Enter through the reef between Little Harbour and Lynyard Cay; head north for the anchorage behind Lynyard or south to the wonderful Little Harbour. The harbor is for shoal-draft vessels only and will be your key to rich Abaco history and of the Johnston family who settled this area. Lynyard Cay is close enough to anchor and dinghy to Little Harbour, and provides good holding and protection from prevailing easterlies.
9. As you work your way north, on the north end of Elbow Cay is Hope Town, a must-see.
Anchor outside of the harbor and dinghy in—anchoring inside is now prohibited. The hub of the Abacos, Marsh Harbour, is only about 10nm to the west and Man O’ War is just to the north. These are all wonderful places where you could spend months.
A fish market near Fort Montagu. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Three dinghies anchored on Powerful Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Chuck Baier and Susan Landry enjoy the view of Great Harbour Cay from the swim platform of their trawler “Sea Trek.”
Public beach at Rainbow Beach and Cay. Photo: Chuck Baier.
10. Moving on to the Sea of Abaco, two of our favorites are Treasure Cay and Green Turtle Cay.
We also love the anchorage at Manjack Cay. Powell Cay is a short hop north of Manjack with Spanish Cay just beyond.
11. Once you reach Crab Cay head west toward Hawksbill Cay and Fox Town.
Your exit from The Bahamas will take you past Great Sale Cay. Anchor in the cove on the west side or on the east side for those occasional westerlies. Then, head beyond Mangrove Cay to anchor near West End.
12. Cross to Florida’s Lake Worth Inlet, a distance of about 56nm, or to St. Lucie Inlet, about 67nm.
Wherever your destination in The Bahamas might be this time around, there will always be more anchorages to explore on your next trip.
Hope Town lighthouse an downtown view from a beach dune. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Beach houses on South Palmetto Point. Photo: Chuck Baier.
The lighthouse on Paradise Island. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Palm trees and the ocean view on Montagu Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Helpful Tips for Anchoring in the Bahamas:
Anchors & Equipment During our last journey through The Bahamas, the “next generation” anchor proved itself to be the best all-around anchor we’ve used—there are brands with very similar designs and characteristics that perform well. The prudent skipper will carry a second anchor for those severe weather conditions and the few times a second anchor is needed to deploy a Bahamian Moor.
The Bahamian Moor is two anchors set off the bow at a 180° angle from each other, used to keep the boat’s swinging circle limited to a small area. It’s good for strong reversing currents like those found in cuts, or where there is limited space. In many of our anchorages, good holding in deep sand is the norm. Even in a sandy bottom, small patches of rock and coral are often present.
You should also have a sufficient amount of the correct size chain as a primary part of the anchor rode. Most anchoring will be done in 10 feet or less, so a minimum of 100 feet is recommended, but the more, the better. Nylon anchor rode can and will chafe through very quickly when rubbing back and forth on a piece of rock or coral.
Finding the Right Spot Anchoring in The Bahamas offers some unique challenges. Often heavy grass will blanket large sections of some of the better anchorages, which prevents the anchor from setting properly. Look for sandy patches seen as white patches within the grass. Pull forward to the edge of the sandy patch, drop the anchor and back down slowly until the anchor has set about in the center of the patch. Once the anchor rode is stretched out, back down slowly until you are comfortable the anchor has set. It’s a wise idea to snorkel over the anchor to be sure it is indeed set.
Beware of what might look like a sandy bottom but is actually a thin layer of sand over rock or coral. If the anchor appears to be set, it may only be in a narrow crevice and will release as soon as the boat shifts on the rode. Many times the anchor will simply skip across the bottom. In this situation, it’s often best to try and relocate to another spot. Weather conditions and wind strength and direction will play a very important role in where to safely anchor. Make monitoring the weather and knowing what conditions to expect part of your regular anchoring routine.
By Chuck Baier, Southern Boating May 2015
About the Author: Chuck Baier and Susan Landry have cruised for almost 25 years, first on their Mariner 40 Ketch Sea Trek, and currently on their Marine Trader trawler Beach House. Chuck and Susan are owners of Beach House Publications, publishers of The Great Book Of Anchorages series of anchorage guides, which cover the Chesapeake Bay; Atlantic ICW from Hampton Roads/Norfolk to Key West and include the St. Johns River; The Bahamas-The Route Most Traveled; and the Gulf Coast from Cape Sable to Mobile, including the Okeechobee Waterway.
The Bahamas Reef Environment Educational Foundation (BREEF) has recently established a spectacular Coral Reef Sculpture Garden just off Clifton Bluff in southwest New Providence (25–00.5N/77–33.0W). If you stay at Albany or Lyford Cay or anchor in West Bay, it is an easy dinghy ride to the Garden in settled weather.
BREEF calls the garden “a perfect fusion of art, education and marine conservation.” It will promote the growth of new coral, provide fish habitats and relieve some of the pressure on the natural reefs in the area. The garden is already a regular dive site for Stuart Cove.
The impressive sculptures by local and international artists are all built of concrete, which provide a substrate for new coral. Scattered around the artwork are reef balls which are excellent artificial habitats for fish. The garden is in about 20 feet of water so is easily seen from the surface while snorkeling. breef.org
Sandy Point, Abaco Some additions to the cruising life are just plain fun. Brad and Ceril, residents of Abaco, have built a floating bar in Sandy Point. In the summer months their barge is anchored just off the beach and has a small raft on a line that gets people back and forth from shore. The bar supplies a basic choice of beverages out of a cooler, and music is provided from a boom box plugged into a car battery. There is room around the barge to tie up your dinghy. From personal experience, drinking a cold beer in the midsummer heat while semi-submerged on the edge of the barge is delightful.
Aids to Navigation The list of aids to navigation that are malfunctioning, abandoned, or missing continues to grow, so it is best not to rely on any of them. Gone are the days when you could depend on Great Isaac and Great Stirrup lights to guide you down the Northwest Providence Channel. The government simply hasn’t the money for maintenance. Thankfully, modern charts and electronics compensate for the loss of reliable buoys and lights. Be sure your paper and electronic charts are up-to-date and your GPS and radar are functioning properly—it is advisable to have a backup GPS. If you are not an experienced navigator you might consider traveling only in daylight, and it is never a bad idea to call ahead to a marina and ask for local knowledge and advice.
Cape Eleuthera Marina The facility now sports a new swimming pool, the beach has been enlarged, docks are still in excellent condition, Pascal’s restaurant is open at the T-dock, and the staff are as helpful as ever. The showers and laundry are air-conditioned and clean, and the store has a good supply of snacks, liquor and bait. An added plus, the fuel dock never seems to run out of diesel and gas.
Westerly winds cause a miserable surge in the marina, but the staff will try to place you in one of the slips with minimal movement. Regardless, you will be safe even if you are in a slip with a lot of surge, and you will be happy when the wind clocks around to the east and sad to leave.
For fresh Bahamian food call ahead to Sheryl’s Inn (242-334-8111) in Deep Creek for supper. Sheryl’s does not serve alcohol but you can bring your own or go across the road to Friendly Bob’s bar and liquor store and carry beverages back to Sheryl’s.
Stone Crab Fishery, Eleuthera A stone crab company is now operating in the Bight of Eleuthera. Bahama Biters (bahamabiters.com) has invested in hundreds of stone crab pots so Styrofoam buoys are everywhere. Keep a good lookout wherever you go in the Bight, and if you run at night know that you might snag a buoy.
Staniel Cay, Exumas The Staniel Cay Yacht Club building has just finished a major upgrade. The kitchen, dining room, gift shop, and restrooms are completely rebuilt. The new dining room is lovely, overlooks the channel and is open to the fresh air or air-conditioned when that is more comfortable. There is a new chef with a good menu and prices are fair. The restaurant is open for lunch and there are two seatings for supper—reservations are strongly recommended. Breakfast is still served in the old dining room, which has been redone. For those who relished the sailors’ charm and controlled chaos of the old club, the bar has only replaced overhead lights and is still as cheerful as ever. Local residents and cruisers still engage in lively conversation and consumption of beverages and bar food.
