Boating on Lake Superior

Save the best for last on your Great Loop journey. Try your hand at boating on Lake Superior.

The northern segment of the Great Loop route on the U.S./Canada border encompasses four of the five Great Lakes: Ontario, Erie, Huron, and Michigan. For some “Loopers,” however, cruising this far without exploring Lake Superior, the largest of the Great Lakes, would be like a road trip through the western U.S. without seeing the Grand Canyon; the experience would be incomplete. Here’s why you must go boating on Lake Superior.

Most Loopers plan to complete the Great Loop in a single calendar year. However, Fort Myers, Florida-based Mike and Deb Hervey added another two years and hundreds of miles to their itinerary in order to fully explore Lake Superior’s Canadian and U.S. shores. We caught up with the Herveys who, as of press time, were still on their multi-year Great Loop adventure in the Kentucky Lakes aboard Carousel, a 1999 42-foot Grand Banks Europa.

According to the Herveys and others who cruised all five of the Great Lakes, Lake Superior was an essential part of their Great Loop journey and appropriately named for many reasons. Lake Superior’s shoreline consists of three geographical categories: the Canadian shore, the Wisconsin and Michigan shore, and what’s commonly referred to as the North Shore—from the city of Duluth at the lake’s far western point to the Canadian border along the Minnesota shoreline.

Superior Loopers

To take the Lake Superior diversion, Loopers cruising from east to west will navigate in northwest Lake Huron to the St. Marys River and St. Marys Falls Canal that lead to the Soo Locks, which bypass the river’s rapids that fall over the 21-foot elevation difference between Lake Superior and the lower lakes. Recreational and tour boats use the smaller lock on the Canadian side, and commercial ships use the two large locks on the U.S. side.

The city of Sault Ste. Marie spans both sides of the U.S./Canada border, and the Herveys recommend docking at one of the marinas on the Ontario side to stock up on provisions before locking through to Lake Superior. “Once you get twenty to thirty miles north of Sault Ste. Marie on the Canadian side, there are very few harbors,” says Mike. He adds that they lost cell phone reception on the Canadian shore and even VHF reception was sketchy. “Everything is bigger, so the distance between harbors is more than what most cruisers are used to,” he says, noting that most boaters will be more comfortable cruising the U.S. shore, but for Loopers who crave the remoteness and wild beauty it offers, the raw and untamed Canadian coastline more than satisfies.

Superior Weather

Regardless of which shoreline cruisers choose to explore, the one thing they have in common is a proclivity to changing weather. Experienced boaters know that monitoring the weather before and while cruising is key to staying safe. The Herveys say this is especially true on Lake Superior where atmospheric conditions can change more rapidly than what they encountered on the other Great Lakes.

In addition to storms with rain, lightning, and high waves, it’s not uncommon for dense fog to roll in like a blanket and cover the lake, especially in June. “Weather forecasts are not as accurate as they are on the East Coast. Boaters have to keep a good eye on the weather and take with a grain of salt the wave height prediction,” says Mike, who strongly recommends utilizing resources from the Great Lakes Cruising Club. The club provides up-to-date harbor reports on more than 1,000 harbors and anchorages throughout the Great Lakes.

Superior Islands

Although it’s geographically closer to Canada and the northern Minnesota shoreline, Isle Royale National Park, an archipelago of more than 400 islands, is actually part of Michigan. The Herveys say the charts are not quite as accurate as what they experienced firsthand, but the pristine water, raw nature, and seeing the animals that come down to the water to drink while you’re at anchor is well worth the visit. Overnight boaters need a permit whether they’re at the dock or at anchor, and it’s recommended to request a permit at nps.gov prior to your arrival.

Looking for another type of National Park? Check out these National Marine Sanctuaries.

On Wisconsin’s shore, the Apostle Islands, also part of the U.S. National Park Service, offer a spectacular view both above and below the water, so slow your speed to take it all in. According to the Herveys, if boating on Lake Superior, there are very few well-protected bays for those inclined to anchor. However, the nearby town of Bayfield offers several nice marinas. Of special note is the largest of the Apostle Islands, Madeline Island, and its only town, La Pointe. The population, which increases significantly in the summer months, never loses its small-town feel. You’ll find The Madeline Island Yacht Club, a full-service marina, here. During the winter months, La Pointe’s year-round residents access the mainland via windsled across the ice. Some use a hovercraft with skis. Others drive on an ice road when the ice is thick enough to sustain the weight of vehicles.

Superior Scenery

Boating Lake Superior offers cruisers the chance to see the Aurora Borealis.

On Lake Superior, it’s nearly impossible to choose the best scenic attraction. But, most would agree that the shoreline to the west of the Apostle Islands is a strong contender. Caves cut into rocky red bluffs topped with evergreen trees line the shore. In the summer, kayakers explore the caves when the lake is calm. In winter, when the lake is frozen, hikers are treated to icicles hanging from the cave ceiling that glimmer like diamonds in the frosty light. Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore near Munising, Michigan, offers a stunning landscape of beautiful sandstone cliffs. It’s a natural attraction that draws visitors every season during the year. If you carry kayaks aboard your vessel, you’ll definitely want to use them here.

Don’t miss the scenic Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, a great place to kayak.

Boating on Lake Superior offers a special visual treat. The most outstanding scenic attraction is in the night sky, where the majesty and mystery of creation shows its handiwork as if by magic. Aurora borealis, or northern lights, are strongest in the fall and winter but can appear on Lake Superior year-round. Your best chance to watch them dance across the sky is away from any city lights and late on a clear night with no moonlight. Turn off any artificial light, let your eyes adjust to the darkness, look toward the north, and wait. They are unpredictable, which is part of what’s so rewarding when they do appear. Don’t take it for granted. Witnessing this miracle of nature is a gift that most have never seen with their own eyes.

Superior Towns

Boaters enjoy this is an image of Bayfield, Wisconsin.

Bayfield, Wisconsin, is a worthy boating destination on its own. The town offers quaint shops with homemade jams and local artisan-created crafts. Shuttle buses run from the marina to Big Top Chautauqua, a big circus tent that hosts music performances. Across the lake, Grand Marais, Minnesota, is another small town worth a stop. Michigan’s Upper Peninsula has many charming villages that are walkable and fun to explore, such as Copper Harbor on the Keweenaw Peninsula.

The Herveys prefer the small towns for their strong sense of history and welcoming culture. However, the larger towns have a lot to offer as well. “Marquette has a farmers market next to the marina for provisioning,” says Mike. Loopers with enough time and budget should definitely make the journey to the westernmost point on Lake Superior. Head to the port city of Duluth, Minnesota, if only to see one of the few remaining aerial lift bridges, which was built in 1905.

Take a ride on the Algoma Central Railway.

Commercial ships travel through the Duluth Ship Canal and under the bridge to the inner harbor. Canal Park has many restaurants. A favorite visitor pastime is a stroll along the canal, especially when ships enter or depart. After you’ve explored Lake Superior to your heart’s content and are on your way back to Lake Huron to resume the Loop, stop again in Sault Ste. Marie to take the one-day train ride north on the Algoma Central Railway Train Excursion. According to the Herveys, it was a highlight of their trip and a great way to see some of the Canadian countryside.

You might even say the experience was superior.

By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating August 2019

Great Loop Waterways

If you’re in the midst of planning your own Great Loop adventure, take note of these river-lakes on or accessible from these Great Loop waterways.

All who have cruised the Great Loop Waterways—the system comprising the eastern half of the United States that enables one to circumnavigate by water—have a list of their favorite spots they added for a variety of reasons: picturesque views, fascinating history, friendly people, fabulous food, or simply serene cruising areas.

We’ve compiled a list of some of the notable expanses of water, where the river transforms into a lake that’s long and broad. Check out these Great Loop Waterways.

Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley, Kentucky

From the Ohio River at Paducah, Kentucky, southbound Loopers have the option of taking the Tennessee River or Cumberland River, both of which require passing through a lock. Although it adds several miles to the journey, many cruisers opt for the Cumberland River due to the potential for lock delays from commercial traffic on the Tennessee River.

Barkley Lock opens up on the south side to Lake Barkley. Just past the lock to starboard is Green Turtle Bay Resort & Marina, with all the services cruisers need plus great dining options for a break from the galley, including not-to-be-missed Patti’s 1880s Settlement; order the pork chop and pie.

Lake Barkley and Kentucky Lake are connected by the Barkley Canal that enables cruisers to enjoy boating on both lakes. The canal that separates the two lakes is on the north end of a long peninsula called Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area.

Check your charts and depth gauge and explore the coves; some have waterfalls inside. This beautiful area is best in the fall when the hardwoods explode with color and southbound cruisers can extend their enjoyment of peak fall foliage for several weeks. Don’t miss this scenic spot on the Great Loop Waterways.

Lake Champlain, Vermont

Northbound cruisers transiting from the Atlantic to the Great Lakes have several route options depending on their bridge clearance requirements, time schedule and what they want to see, and there are pros and cons for each. The route through New York Harbor and the Hudson River to Waterford, New York, continues through the Champlain Canal and leads to Lake Champlain, also known as the Adirondacks’ Great Lake.

Lake Champlain is a boating mecca, but its large size leaves plenty of room for everyone (125 miles long, 14 miles wide, 64 feet average depth). Even so, there are many bays and coves to anchor for a quiet evening, while on shore, quaint towns offer dining options galore plus farmers markets to provision locally grown produce and products nearly any day of the week.

In towns and villages on both sides of the lake—New York and Vermont—lovers of history, art and music will find a wealth of events and venues to pique their interest, including
museums, art galleries, concerts, antique shops, festivals, and celebrations.

Lake Pepin, Minnesota

Although the upper Mississippi is not part of the Great Loop route, there are a fair number of Loopers from the upper Midwest who start their Great Loop cruise in Minnesota.
There are also some who want to cruise all five of the Great Lakes, so they cruise to the far western end of Lake Superior and have their boat hauled in Duluth and transported to the Mississippi River south of the Twin Cities to continue their Great Loop journey. In addition to bragging rights of cruising all five of the Great Lakes, Loopers will also pass through all the locks on the Mississippi River, providing they choose that route rather than the Tenn-Tom Waterway.

Lake Pepin is the widest, naturally occurring expanse of the entire Mississippi River and is located south of the Minnesota town of Red Wing (Lock 3). Lake Pepin is a favorite boating destination and cruising ground for many, and picturesque in all seasons, especially the fall when both sides of the lake are flaming with autumn colors. Sailing is common in the summer months, and the Lake City municipal marina welcomes transient cruisers. Pepin City, Wisconsin, hosts a small theater group, and the Mediterranean-style winery, Villa Bellezza, is close by.

Trent-Severn Waterway, Canada

This chain of lakes, rivers, and locks really deserves a feature article of its own—look for this in a future issue—but it would be a disservice not to include it here, too. Loopers on
the northern part of the counter-clockwise route who choose to bypass Lake Erie enter the Trent-Severn Waterway at Trenton on the Bay of Quinte on the east end of Lake Ontario, and they exit at Port Severn on Georgian Bay of Lake Huron.

The 240-mile-long waterway offers a plethora of experiences too lengthy to include here, but those who have experienced this route report they’re eager to repeat their Loop experience if only to spend more time exploring this area alone.

There are, of course, many more lakes, rivers, channels, and detours on the Great Loop waiting to be explored. If you’ve completed or are in the process of cruising the Great Loop, we’d love to hear about your favorite Great Loop Waterways. Email sbletters@southernboating.com.

By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating January 2019