All photos by Felicia Scocozza
Exploring the culinary delights of this Long Island port
My beef with Greenport, New York restaurants is simple: There are so many great places to eat there that it makes my head spin. Indeed, this charming and increasingly popular seaside village on Long Island’s North Fork covers just over one square mile, yet it hosts more than 40 eateries—the vast majority within a 10-minute walk of Mitchell Field Marina, an easy access point for boaters of every ilk.
To be certain, I’m not complaining about the quality of the venues; my dining experiences here have often been exceptional. It’s just that the prospects can seem overwhelming for first-time visitors to the area or even for those lucky enough to live nearby, as I do. Then again, all that competition helps keep everyone on their toes. To survive here long-term, restaurateurs must bring their A-game daily, which most certainly do.
Kidding aside, you really can’t go wrong dining in Greenport. From seafood, steaks and burgers to barbecue, smoked, fried and even healthy options, delicious choices abound with presentations ranging from high-end small plates and raw bars to generous portions of comfort foods. So, step ashore and let “The Force” guide you to a perfect table.
Greenport
Located on Peconic Bay roughly nine miles west-southwest of Orient Point, north of Shelter Island, and 20 miles northeast of Riverhead, New York, Greenport is an easy access harbor. You’ll recognize it as the first significant port west of Orient when approaching from Gardiners Bay and by the big Preston’s & Son sign on the roof of the chandlery that has married the village to the harbor for 144 years.
There are three viable options for docking here: Preston’s Dock (631-477-1990, daily/overnight); Mitchel Park Marina, a quarter-mile west near the center of town, (DOCKWA for overnight; call upon arrival for day trips, 631-477-2200) and Claudio’s Greenport Marina, immediately west of Preston’s dock (DOCKWA, overnight/day trip; 631-745-5557).
Once tied up, you are steps away from most of Greenport’s dining options, the majority of which are situated along either Front Street, which runs parallel to the harbor, or Main Street, which tracks north and south at the village’s east end. I only have room to list a few on these pages, but scan the QR Code on the next page to see more.
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Claudio’s
Claudio’s (claudios.com; 631-477-0627) is often the obvious choice for boaters pulling up to Greenport for the first time. Located at the foot of Main Street, this complex consists of the famous Claudio’s Tavern, Claudio’s Waterfront (an open-air venue on Claudio’s Dock), Crabby Jerry’s, and a pizza shop.
Until 2018, the same family had owned Claudio’s for 147 years. Since taking over, the new owners have done a fine job of rebranding to adapt to the North Fork’s in-season visitors taking a more touristy trend.
“I’m a local, but I realize we have to make changes to stay current,” says Tess Wonderling, Claudio’s general manager. “We’ve refreshed our venues and menus while keeping as much history as possible, including a trap door in the floor behind the tavern bar, a relic of the rum-running days during prohibition.”
The cold and warm lobster rolls are probably the most popular choice at both the Tavern and the Waterfront, but my wife and I really enjoyed the cioppino with fresh mussels, clams, shrimp and calamari, and stuffed fluke oreganata, each beautifully presented and absolutely delicious.
Encanto Crêpes and Café
Just a few doors farther up Main Street, our visit to Encanto Crepes and Café (encantocrepescafe.com; 631-477-6533) proved an eye-opener. Launched last year, owners Gustavo and Yuri Acero have a hit with an exceptionally clean and friendly place offering eat-in and take-out service. For boaters, it’s an ideal spot to grab a bite or a high-quality cup of joe. Encanto, it should be noted, translates to “enchanted.”
“We offer a taste of Colombian food, drink and culture,” says Gustavo, whose menu includes 38 different kinds of crepes, both traditionally sweet and savory. “We grew up in Colombia where crepes have a huge following and thought they would go great in a coffee shop setting.”
For many customers, savory crepes are a new dining experience, one you don’t want to pass up. Be sure to ask for the back story on each one you order, which the owners or staff will gladly relate. Among the crepes on the menu, favorites include the banana, Nutella and strawberry, the Savory Chipotle Chicken, and the Encanto Crepe, made with a little bit of chocolate-covered pound cake, duce de leche, and ice cream. “It’s rich and delicious,” says Gustavo.
Consider, too, some of the creative and refreshing juices here. I tried the coconut lemonade and immediately became a convert. Then there’s the Lolo Juice, made from a tropical fruit that grows in the forests of Columbia and Costa Rica. It has the tanginess of kiwi and lemon plus the sweetness of pineapple. Marvelous.
Noah’s
Those already familiar with Greenport will recognize Noah’s (chefnoahs.com; 631-477-6720) as the progressively trendy restaurant against which all others on Long Island’s North Fork are measured.
“We strive to serve creative, interesting, and locally inspired, farm-to-table cuisine, although we’ll also explore different regions now and then,” says chef Noah Schwartz, who serves artfully arranged dishes as a mix of small and large plates which patrons are encouraged to share. “Most of what we serve is based on what’s available here seasonally, so the menu does change. Always, we incorporate as many local ingredients as possible.”
On our most recent visit here, Noah’s once again exceeded expectations as we shared from the small plate and not so small plate listings of Tasmanian Red Crab Tacos, Butternut Squash Falafel, Crescent Farm Duck BBQ, and my personal favorite, wonderfully earthy Truffle Risotto. Truly well-done and beautifully presented, Chef Noah and staff!
Demarchelier Bistro
For continental flair, you’ll find it tough to beat Demarchelier Bistro (demarchelierrestaurant.com; 631-593-1650). Oddly, this is the only French Bistro on Long Island’s North Fork, but it’s a dandy. Tastefully decorated and surprisingly intimate considering the busy setting, it’s perfect for a quick lunch, romantic rendezvous, or full meal with the entire crew.
“I want customers to feel like they were in Paris when visiting here,” says owner Emily Demarchelier. “After a forty-year run in Manhattan, I’m thrilled to bring this full-immersion experience to this beautiful area. I’d like to see people try our escargot because that’s a typical French dish. The steak tartar is also a classic. These items might not be mainstream in America, but they are delicious. Go outside your comfort zone and give them a try.”
Everything looks and smells awesome here as it makes its way from the kitchen to the table, adding to the anticipation of digging into the smartly presented small plates, sandwiches, entrees and desserts that can be paired perfectly with a selection of predominantly French wines. The crips-skinned duck confit and roasted salmon entrees we sampled were perfectly moist, tender and tasty, while the chocolate mousse was rich and inspired. No doubt we’ll return soon to try the escargot and steak tartar.
Black Llama Bar
Opened just this past June, the Black Llama Bar (americanbeech.com/bar-item/black-llama-bar; 631-477-5939) is tucked inside busy Sterling Square off Main St., along with the very popular 1943 Pizza and the modern-themed American Beech Hotel, Bar and Restaurant. A high-end raw bar, chef Alan Bay describes it as Miami meets New York City. The description works. With a format inspired by the owners and staff of American Beech, Bay’s presentations are wonderfully over the top, served at ideal temperatures, and fresh as can be.
“I grew up fishing here and it’s a big part of my life,” says Bay, who wants customers to experience the freshness of fish and shellfish caught in local Long Island waters.
All I can say is Wow! Bay’s message comes through loud and clear whether you start with oysters and clams on the half-shell or any menu item from the Mexican shrimp cocktail or tuna tartar to the shellfish tower. Bluefin and yellowfin tuna, along with salmon and red snapper, can also be served in any of four different ways including in a traditional Ponzu style soy sauce with bonito flakes and combu (a Japanese kelp used to flavor stocks).
Like I said, Greenport is blessed with great places to eat that can match your taste, mood, and budget. Now, if only I could decide where to try next.
-by Tom Schlichter
