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Boaters know the value of healthy oceans better than almost anyone. Whether your interest is fishing or cruising, no one wants to do it in unhealthy water. Get schooled and brush up on some basic marine education.
September is when schools get back in session, but it’s also a time along the Southeast Coast to learn more about marine education.
Florida Oceanographic Society
A nonprofit organization with the mission to inspire environmental stewardship of Florida’s coastal areas through education, research, and advocacy, the Florida Oceanographic Society offers educational programs to the public. Its 57-acre marine life nature center on Hutchinson Island in Stuart, Florida, between the Indian River and the Atlantic Ocean, conducts research and restoration programs for the improvement of the regional coastal ecosystems. Presentations educate the public on environmental issues, such as protecting coastal ecosystems and marine life.
Founded in 1971 as a premier marine research facility in Fort Pierce, Florida, Harbor Branch is part of Florida Atlantic University. The mission of its team of scientists, engineers, students, staff, and volunteers is to use ocean science to help create a better world. Harbor Branch-FAU’s Ocean Discovery Visitors Center offers a variety of educational opportunities along with a lecture series that enables the community to learn about the marine environment and the important research conducted by the institute.
As part of the Smithsonian’s Natural History Museum, the Marine Station, also located in Fort Pierce, Florida, is a research facility focusing on the marine ecosystems unique to Florida’s offshore waters and the Indian River Lagoon. The facility’s programs study the biodiversity, life histories, and ecology of marine organisms in the lagoon and oceanic waters of Florida’s Treasure Coast. On the third Thursday of each month, the center opens its doors to the public to share its current research projects. The center also holds public lectures throughout the winter where scientists present their work.
Mote Marine Laboratory at Florida Keys History & Discovery Center
Research and environmental stewardship are two tenets of Mote Marine Laboratory.
Mote Marine Laboratory comprises scientists and explorers acting as stewards of the ocean. They are driven by research and education to create a better environment for generations to come. Their belief is: “The answers are in the ocean, and together we will find them.” The Mote Laboratory field station at the Florida Keys Discovery Center in Islamorada, Florida, provides a beautiful and educational view of the unique coral reef ecosystem of the Florida Keys and the challenges it faces.
The University of North Carolina, Institute of Marine Sciences: UNC-IMS operates a research facility in Morehead City, North Carolina. The Institute’s mission is to serve the
public by conducting cutting-edge research, training young scientists, and providing expertise to governmental agencies and industry. Each Thursday during the school year, a
notable marine scientist will present a lecture on their current research project.
Cool. Crisp. Clean. You have to love fall boating in the Northeast, even if signs show that the end of the summer boating season is near. Still generally hot, especially in recent years, the predominant winds this month will eventually shift from the southwest and drop out of the north and east.
The north shift brings the season’s first chills, while the easterlies initiate a bit of chop. Neither are particularly worrisome at this point, although they are harbingers of change that will steadily intensify through October and November.
Fall Weather
Early September weather tends to be much like August from a boating standpoint in our region, so don’t feel overly pressured to be on the water every time you have a few free hours.
Just stick to your schedule when boating in the fall. Keep an eye on the long-term weather forecast in case any tropical storms or hurricanes are intent on rolling up the coast. The threat of these could cost several days at port even under sunny skies. They are often preceded and followed by serious ground swells from offshore which sometimes make inlets impassible and regulates the fleet to bay, harbor, and Long Island Sound waters. Most years, this is just something to keep in mind, but there are times when it leads to serious alterations in schedules, so have a Plan B if undertaking a journey spanning several days.
Fall Fishing
Weather disclaimers aside, one thing you’ll surely want to do this month is revisit the fishing scene. September often sees the inshore grounds refresh with solid catches of scup (porgy) and amazingly abundant black sea bass leading the inshore hit parade scene from New Jersey through Massachusetts. False albacore generally arrives in nearshore waters to the delight of fly-casters and light-tackle enthusiasts.
Fall boating is primetime for anglers. Offshore, tuna and shark action tends to intensify from the New Jersey waters all the way to Massachusetts where anglers cast with surface poppers or work diamond jigs to draw bone-jarring strikes. Bluefin tuna in the 30- to 80-pound class make up the bulk of this catch with some of the action happening within 10 miles of the coast.
Fall Playtime
Fall is the perfect time to go whale-watching. You may even get to see a humpback, pictured above.
These same waters also feature a variety of whales, porpoises, sea turtles, and lumbering, oddly shaped ocean sunfish that can weigh 300 pounds or more. All are a treat to behold if you reach these waters. Just be sure to give the amazing creatures reasonable berth. Don’t interfere with their feeding and migration needs or risk a chance encounter with your hull or prop. For whales, especially, a respectful distance is necessary.
NOAA suggests at least 100 yards but notes that 500 yards from the creature’s forward line of progress is required for endangered right whales, so bring along binoculars. Here are the NOAA marine life viewing guidelines.
You should squeeze in as much playtime on the water as possible this month. Tubing, water skiing, snorkeling, rafting-up, late-summer festivals, and a little clamming or gunkholing remain on the menu. For the first two, make sure to follow safety protocols like having a spotter on duty in addition to the driver. For the latter options, choose a mix
of familiar spots where fun and success are ensured but also explore some new areas to expand your local knowledge.
The bottom line this month? Don’t fret, there’s still plenty of fall boating season ahead. But don’t dilly-dally either. Head down to the dock, cast off your lines, and drink it all up—
safely, of course.
By Tom Schlichter, Southern Boating September 2019
Dining in The Bahamas can be anything from casual to high-end and everything in between.
Dining in The Bahamas vary dramatically from eclectic beach huts, spring break-style bars, and restaurants to casual marina pubs and fine-dining establishments. Naturally, seafood is something that intersects all manner of culinary delights as Bahamians and local restaurateurs value the proximity to the sea.
Oddly enough, Bahamians are quite choosy when it comes to “fruits” they pick from the waters. Unlike in other territories where locals seem to eat everything that the human body can stomach, culturally speaking, Bahamians don’t stray far from what they are most familiar with.
The invasive lionfish, now abundant in the waters of The Bahamas, has a negative impact on the marine ecosystem. As a part of its population control strategy, the government invested significant funds in public education to popularize the fine-tasting fish, but Bahamians are not taking the bait. More locals are familiar with lionfish and many enjoy its flavor, but it has not become a staple in the Bahamian diet and very few restaurants offer it.
Stingrays, eels, sea crabs, and octopuses are ubiquitous in the waters of The Bahamas, but you will rarely if ever, see them on the dinner table in most Bahamian homes. You might find a stingray taco on the menu in Mexico, and some Greek and Italian restaurants in The Bahamas serve octopus, but not at Sunday dinner in a Bahamian home. The same goes for eels, parrotfish, sea urchins, starfish, and many other edible marine species.
What can visitors expect to eat in The Bahamas?
There are supply and demand factors that affect the availability and accessibility of some species that Bahamians love; however, the main types of seafood you will find most common at restaurants and in Bahamian homes are conch, lobster, snapper (of which there are dozens of varieties), grouper, and certain pelagic fish like mahi mahi, wahoo, and tuna. Bahamians have a unique and delicious way of preparing seafood, and it usually involves a simple combination of seasonings—mashed salt and bird pepper, a lot of lime, and grilled or fried.
The edible species common in Bahamian homes but rarely served at restaurants include jacks, goggle-eyes, whelks, curbs, and barracuda, notwithstanding the risk of ciguatera fish poisoning.
New restaurants are ready to serve
The Tea Room, Rock Sound, Eleuthera
Rock Sound’s latest restaurant, The Tea Room, opened July 19th . The casual, boutique dining establishment with a bright and earthy aesthetic serves breakfast and lunch during the week. Wall-to-wall French doors and large windows let natural light flood into the restaurant to create a cheerful atmosphere.
Wherever you choose to whet your appetite, we assure that the view will be incredible.
Vegetables are locally sourced from Eleuthera farmers including the restaurant’s very own farm. The irrigation system, in fact, is partially powered with solar electricity derived from the panels sitting atop the Tea Room’s roof.
There is another element that makes the Tea Room unique. It is a training restaurant and social entrepreneurship enterprise at the Centre for Training and Innovation which empowers young people in the community with opportunities to learn new skills, obtain job experience and break the cycle of poverty. Carpentry students made the dining tables, while hospitality students assist in the service and food preparation.
The Tea Room’s menu changes fortnightly, serving Bahamian and American dishes, including vegetarian options like the chickpea veggie burger and avocado salad with mango vinaigrette.
Dining in The Bahamas just got cooler. The historic Nassau Harbour finally has a new waterfront restaurant. Latitudes’ ceiling-to-floor glass windows provide panoramic views of the harbor including the main boating channel, Paradise Island’s most famed hotels, and marinas stretching to the east and west. It directly overlooks the Nassau Harbor Club Marina and features stunning sunsets that sometimes appear through the two arched bridges connecting Nassau and Paradise Island.
It’s impossible to pin down the food to one type of style as the multiregional menu features Bahamian, Italian, and Asian cuisine that includes seafood, steak, freshly made pizzas, sushi, and teppanyaki. The interior design at Latitudes is ultra-modern with bold color blocking, stylized ceilings, and metalwork finishes. The restaurant is one of six under the umbrella of the Titan Hospitality Group, which also includes Wreckers in Spanish Wells and Smugglers in Nassau.
The Latitudes Bar is a trendy social spot that quickly became a feature of Nassau nightlife after it opened. It’s still to be seen if Latitudes has longevity on the social scene, but the circular bar features local draft beer and a full lineup of top-shelf alcohol. The large parking lot for Latitudes is on the other side of a highly trafficked main road, so parking and accessing the restaurants is not the most convenient; however, valet service at the restaurant’s entrance is free.
From luxury resorts to roadside stands, don’t hesitate to stop and taste the Bahamian local fare. Nassau’s oldest, family-owned Bahamian restaurant and bar is the Bahamian Cookin’ Restaurant, formally known as Bahamian Kitchen. For those wanting true,
authentic Bahamian island-style food, head to Trinity Place in Downtown Nassau (across from Central Bank) to experience three generations of Bahamian cooking, including conch fritters, grouper, and lobster.
Don’t let its appearance fool you. Stuart’s Conch Stand in Bailey Town, Bimini, is a rustic shack with piles of conch shells behind it, but the food is outstanding. Everything is prepared fresh while you wait. Visitors highly recommend the conch salad, paired with an ice-cold local beer. With generous portions, modest prices, and friendly staff, Stuart’s doesn’t disappoint. Open for lunch and dinner.
(242) 347-2474
Eleuthera and Harbour Island
Arrive by boat to Frigate’s Bar & Grill in Rock Sound, Eleuthera. It has an easily accessible dingy dock (and the owners don’t mind if you dock there while shopping for provisions). Beat the heat in Frigate’s air-conditioned dining room and share a sampler platter of conch fritters, fish bites, chicken tenders, or wings with three or four friends. They’ll even cook up your catch of the day. Make a reservation or place an order online.
Sip Sip’s menu changes daily based on what’s fresh and in season. In Bahamian slang, sip sip means gossip or idle chat, which lends to why Sip Sip is a popular local hangout in Dunmore Town on Harbour Island. The waterfront view is quite the scene, but its casual atmosphere along with Chef Julie Lightbourn’s classic Bahamian dishes make this a beautiful and tasty spot to have lunch. Try the Spicy Conch Chili or its famed Lobster Quesadilla. Sip Sip is open from Thanksgiving to August but has a sister restaurant at the Atlantis Paradise Island.
The Bahamian Government presented its annual budget for the 2019/2020 fiscal year in June. Aside from the overall effect on economic growth, most of the implications are local. However, there were several measures announced that will directly impact the boating industry and the tourism sector on the whole.
The relevant changes include the Value-Added Tax (VAT) on vacation rental properties, regulations for international yacht chartering, fee increases for cruising permits, and the
introduction of an electronic payment platform to make boating in Bahamian waters more convenient.
Vacation Rental Taxes
The recent growth in the vacation home rental market has attracted the attention of the government which is moving to enforce VAT regulations on online marketplaces selling
accommodations in The Bahamas. This means that people renting accommodations in The Bahamas through online marketplaces such as Airbnb, HomeAway and VRBO will be required to pay 12 percent VAT on their bookings with full compliance required by October 1st.
Currently, the VAT Act 2014 states that all e-commerce services provided for the use, benefit or advantage of persons within The Bahamas are a taxable supply, even if the
providing company is domiciled outside of The Bahamas, but the regulations haven’t been strictly enforced.
A recent data report by Engel & Völkers predicted that the vacation rental market would surpass the traditional hotel booking business in The Bahamas by 2020. New legislation
within the Vacation Home Rental Bill is under development to create a proper regulatory framework. “We feel that foreign visitors who use our vacation homes are also the beneficiaries of our tourism infrastructure and should contribute something to its maintenance and upkeep,” says Minister of Tourism Dionisio D’Aguilar. “Roads, police,
marketing, health care, ports, and airlift are costs that all foreign visitors to hotels contribute toward through the payment of the 12 percent VAT plus a 10 percent promotional levy charged on their room rates.”
The new regulations will bring more parity to the fee structure visitors pay when staying in vacation rentals to those they already pay when staying in hotels. To support the new regulations, the Ministry of Tourism will also implement a digital platform for the registration and licensing of accommodation providers. “This is in keeping with the government’s commitment to improve the ease of doing business in The Bahamas,” says
D’Aguilar. “This will also bring more standardization and consistency of enforcement across all of our Family Islands and ensure additional support to local government administrators and district councils involved in licensing and governance.”
Yacht Chartering
Due to weaknesses in the government’s enforcement measures, the collection of yacht charter fees has historically been low in The Bahamas. As part of its new fiscal measures, however, the government plans to change this with a move to boost voluntary compliance and enforcement of existing laws related to foreign-flagged charter yachts which are currently required to pay a 4 percent fee when in Bahamian waters.
“We know that there are facilitators in the U.S. selling charters. Some of those charters are here and not declaring that they are actually doing charters from The Bahamas,” says K. Peter Turnquest, deputy prime minister and minister of finance. “There are others coming over from the U.S., particularly in Bimini where this is a problem. They come over
for a day fishing and whatever and don’t declare they are on a charter. We are missing all that revenue. The estimates could be anywhere from $20 million to $50 million.
“What we have built is a system to track marine traffic, and it is going to be able to tell us who has and has not paid. It is going to make it easier and more efficient for people to register. Hopefully, that will drive natural compliance and derive the kind of revenue we are seeking,” he adds. Turnquest also highlighted that one of the government’s overall revenue objectives is to enforce existing laws and close loopholes instead of adding new taxes and fees.
Cruising Permits
Effective January 1, 2020, the government will be implementing an increase in cruising permit fees from $150 on boats up to 34 feet and $300 on boats 35 feet and longer. There are also plans to set rates based on size and length of stay ranging from $150 for three months to $4,000 per year. These rates will also go into effect at the start of the new year to allow a transition period for the boating industry. The government conducted
benchmarking studies on similar fees in rival Caribbean jurisdictions before unveiling the new structure.
Click2Clear
To support its various fiscal measures, the Bahamian government is beefing up its ease of doing business initiatives, particularly with respect to the digitization of government processes. The phased roll-out of a new online platform for the Department of Customs, called Click2Clear, will introduce online payment for cruise permits and, eventually,
yacht charter fees. The paper-based application process and cash-only payment facility have been a source of long-standing complaints. When Click2Clear is fully implemented, it will bring added convenience to the boating community.
The Click2Clear platform is also expected to improve the overall process of importing and exporting goods by increasing transparency and accountability. Its full-risk management portal will reduce the time for processing entries. Low-risk users benefit from automated system checks with only sample inspections, as opposed to 100 percent inspections. The system will integrate with other government agencies which allow for the seamless processing of custom-related permits from those agencies.
The Coimbra make have sunk, but it created a haven for fish.
The early morning hours of January 15, 1942, were fateful for the British supply ship Coimbra, a 423-foot tanker with a 60-foot beam and 81,000 barrels of fuel oil on board. At 3AM, in the fog, she took a torpedo amidships from U-boat 123, igniting her cargo before a second explosion broke her in three and sealed her fate. Capt. J.P. Barnard and 34 crew members perished in the strike; only six survived.
The attack, in 180 feet of water roughly 30 miles southeast of Long Island’s Shinnecock Inlet, was the second successful World War II U-boat ambush off the eastern seaboard.
More than 300 attempts would follow through 1945 with 255 ships sent to the bottom and 30 U-boats meeting their demise as well.
Most who endured the second war to end all wars are gone now, but many of the sunken ships remain as testament to the hardships suffered. Roughly 75 years beneath the seas
allowed them to integrate into the marine environment as hosts to coral, lobsters and various bottom-fish species as they slowly deteriorate. The Coimbra, in particular, is a favorite of northeast anglers and scuba divers being a relatively short run from New York and New Jersey ports.
She is also leaking oil.
Slick Rick
“We’ve seen indications of oil slicks on satellite images since 2015,” says Coast Guard Chief Warrant Officer Allyson Conroy. “Recent assessment confirms a pinhole leak allowing seepage from at least one of the oil tanks that remain intact within the wreck. The leak is inconsistent, and we estimate only five to ten gallons are escaping at a time. It’s not an environmental catastrophe, but it does need to be addressed.”
Oil slick leaking from the Coimbra.
To that end, the Coast Guard, working with contractors, began removing the remaining oil from the wreck using pumps. While they aren’t sure how much oil is still on the ship, dive teams have sampled at least some oil in eight different tanks. The assessment and removal process started in late May and should be completed sometime this summer.
Until then, boaters are required to stay at least 500 yards from the operation at all times.
Other Issues
So, then, what about the other 255 vessels that were lost along the East Coast during the U-boat campaign and additional ships that met unfortunate ends through unintentional means? Is it logical to expect they might begin to leak any remaining oil after three-quarters of a century below the surface?
“We don’t know of any other shipwrecks in the New York/New Jersey area leaking oil,” says Conroy. “Since most now serve as marine habitats in addition to memorials to their crews, we have no immediate plans to check them individually. We will address new concerns as they arrive.”
“Responding as necessary rather than pre-emptively seems like a good idea in this case,” says renowned scuba diver, PADI Master Instructor and retired USCG Merchant Marine Officer Capt. Steve Belinda of Miller Place, New York. “Heating oil is a diesel fuel which should rise to the surface and mostly burn off. It’s not crude oil which can form a sludge and slowly spill out across the bottom.”
Other Wrecks
Belinda, who has dived on numerous northeast wrecks, says he knows of only two others, besides the Coimbra, with slight oil leaks. One is the Ayuruoca, aka the “Oil Wreck,” in the Mud Hole off New Jersey. “The other is the ocean liner Andrea Doria,” he reveals. “She sank after a collision with the MS Stockholm in 1956, about fifty miles south of Nantucket, Massachusetts. Her leak appears to be diesel, too. When we come up from diving there, the top twenty feet or so of anchor line is sometimes black, and you can see a bit of oil reflecting on the surface. It’s been that way for many years.”
New York is growing its footprint of artificial reefs. But the state needs help.
In what has been the largest expansion of New York State’s artificial reef system, the Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) has been spreading more than 43,000 cubic yards of clean, recycled Tappan Zee Bridge material, 5,900 cubic yards of jetty rock, 338 cubic yards of steel pipe, and over 30 vessels across several artificial marine reef sites in the waters surrounding Long Island.
Cranes deposit pieces of the Tappan Zee Bridge to create an artificial reef in New York.
Now the DEC is looking for volunteers to help gather data to fine-tune reef expansions and creations going forward. Through the department’s Artificial Reef Program, volunteer
anglers and scuba divers record and share their catches and observations while visiting the dozen artificial reefs located in Long Island waters. Information provided by the public will help the DEC better understand the abundance of marine life on each reef. It will also help track species and wildlife and the amount of fishing and diving at each location.
Data Driven
“This data can be used to further enhance the fishing and diving opportunities in New York’s marine waters by creating more effective reefs in the future,” says Jesse Hornstein,
a marine biologist with DEC. “It takes only minutes to fill out the surveys, and there’s even an app you can download to make reporting catches, sightings, and observations really easy.”
According to Hornstein, there’s a lot to learn from gathering even basic data, such as species, size of fish caught or seen and the kind of bottom they were holding over, as that can help determine the best materials to use in the future.
“We know from aerial surveys that Long Island’s westernmost reefs are most heavily used,” says Hornstein, “but there is a lot more information we can put to good use when it comes to understanding the potential of these structures. Maybe different types of fish hold around different types of structure. We also want to see the difference in species abundance between wrecks to the east, west and in Long Island Sound, and if various reef layouts make a difference. All the data gathered helps build a more complete picture so that we can better expand existing reefs and build new ones that will be even more productive.”
These insights sound fishy
More information on New York’s marine-based artificial reefs is needed, but there is no doubt they effectively draw and hold fish. Observations are already providing some
interesting insights. Reports from volunteers indicate fish and marine life gravitate to new structures faster than expected. Anglers and divers report that tautog and black sea bass inspect new deposits within weeks of placement.
“We’ve also learned that tautog and black sea bass prefer sunken vessels and concrete deposits over rock piles, although they will occupy all three,” says Hornstein. “It’s also interesting to note that menhaden (bunker fish) sometimes congregate in the waters above our reefs. A study by Stony Brook School of Marine Science found that dolphins visit these structures to feed. I’m looking forward to seeing what new surprises more
data will bring.”
Cat Island is the last safe haven for oceanic whitetip sharks.
Just 200 yards off the southeastern shoreline of Cat Island, the shallow coast descends into the depths of the Atlantic Ocean. Beneath the surface, the boundary between your field of view and the infiniteness of the ocean varies. But from every direction, the water is like a glassy wall—everything is visible, including the particles in the water and the light rays dancing and decorating the water column. Beyond the border is the haziness and eeriness of the unknown, a dark blue abyss from which deadly predators emerge. This is the type of environment most people would gladly avoid, but in Cat Island, it is the exact location many divers seek out between March and June. It’s the prime habitat for one of the world’s most threatened apex predators: oceanic whitetip sharks.
Cat Island is the last safe haven for globally threatened oceanics. These inquisitive pelagic sharks live in the blue abyss and emerge from the ocean’s depths to scavenge their prey on the surface by following schools of baitfish (tuna, wahoo, mahi-mahi) that migrate through The Bahamas.
Sharks Here, Sharks There
“If there is one thing I love about Cat Island, it is the predictability of the sharks,” reported underwater photographer Andy Murch in a 2018 shark diving report. “The oceanic whitetips that inhabit this deepwater region of The Bahamas have become a menace for sport fishermen that are trying to land their fish. As soon as the sharks hear
a fishing boat engine, they race in and steal the struggling tuna before it can be hauled out of the water. Consequently, once we reach our favorite shark spot, all we have to do is chum and rev the engines of the dive boat as if we have a fish on. The oceanic whitetip sharks show up like clockwork.”
Capt. Renald Butler, the owner of Bowleg Fishing Charters, knows the trick very well. For several years, he was the local captain of the dive boat for Epic Diving, an international dive company running seasonal expeditions out of Cat Island. He also dove with the sharks.
“At first, when I started, I was skittish of them,” says Butler, who has been diving in Cat Island since childhood. Oceanics have a reputation of being vicious sharks dating back to
the 1940s when a U.S. Navy ship was sunk by a Japanese submarine. Oceanics are believed to have ravaged hundreds of sailors left marooned in the sea, earning it a reputation as one of the “deadliest mass shark attacks in history.”
Gentle Giants?
The International Shark Attack File (ISAF) maintained by the Florida Museum of Natural History ranks the oceanic sixth in their global database of shark attacks for the number of unprovoked fatalities. There are only three verified incidents in ISAF’s history between 1580 to the present. It ranks 16th for non-fatal unprovoked attacks with seven. Butler says he saw another side to oceanics while diving with them at Cat Island. “They are not the vicious sharks’ people make them out to be. I dove with them and have seen people rub them down like you are petting a dog.”
To bring the oceanics to the boat, Butler also makes the engines sound like they got a catch. “The sharks love that,” he says. “Once they hear the sound of that engine, they are
coming up to the top to see what’s going on. We wait until we see the sharks and then we jump into the water. This water could be eighty to ninety feet or thousands of feet deep. With the boat and sound of the engine, I’ve brought them into fifteen feet of water.”
Overfished
Oceanics are one of the most threatened species. Their global populations shrank from long-line fishing, outlawed in The Bahamas in 1993. Today, The Bahamas is a pillar of shark conservation. The entire country is a shark sanctuary by law and permanently protects more than 40 shark species in approximately 243,244 square miles (630 square kilometers) of the country’s waters.
“The sharks are really important in the localized area where they are, but they are also affected by threats that can be global,” says Catherine Kilduff, senior attorney at the U.S. Center for Biodiversity. “For example, changes in ocean conditions due to climate change can affect sharks locally. The biggest impact of having sharks locally is that
they can keep local ecosystems healthier. If you are going to maintain healthy dive locations, you want to protect the sharks there.”
Diving With Oceanic White Tips
Diving with oceanic whitetip sharks is different from most other shark species in The Bahamas because it is an open-ocean drift dive, best tried, according to some experts, with previous shark diving experience and specialized training. “You need extremely good buoyancy skills to dive with oceanics,” says Murch, who is also chief executive officer and expedition leader at Big Fish Expeditions. “You are not able to drop down on the sand and compose yourself. If you drop down in Cat Island, you just keep going. There are potentially aggressive sharks which require a level of composure and experience so you can read the sharks.”
Only a handful of local and international companies lead shark dives off Cat Island,
including the Dive Shop at Greenwood Beach Resort and Neal Watson’s Bimini Scuba Center on North Bimini. Big Fish Expeditions and Epic Diving bring divers to The Bahamas seasonally.
The country’s other most famous shark dives take place year-round in shallow water. Divers spend most of their time on the sandy seabed, passively interacting with the sharks. They kneel in a stationary circle as sharks gracefully cruise by to secure tasty fish heads dished out by professional shark feeders.
Deep Blue
On a Cat Island shark dive, you might see land above the water, but not the seabed below. “There is no real bottom,” says Watson. “You are diving in one of the deepest parts of The Bahamas.” Cat Island sits on a continental shelf and has more than 20 miles of wall diving that starts around 40 feet deep at its shallowest spot and drops off to approximately 3,000 feet.
In addition to the uniqueness of the ocean, Cat Island is no ordinary island. It is more remote and underdeveloped than the other popular shark diving islands of Bimini, Grand
Bahama and Nassau.
“The diving is more advanced and the location is more advanced,” says Watson. “There is no Hilton hotel on Cat Island. Cruise ships don’t go there. It’s a little wilder, and the sharks and the fish around Cat Island are more indicative of that Out Island experience.”
Even though diving with oceanics is very different than other shark dives, divers have had sightings of many other species while in search of oceanics, including blue marlins, mahi-mahi, and tuna as well as hammerheads, tiger sharks, blue sharks, silky sharks, reef sharks, dusky sharks, and blacktips.
From local blue runner jacks to massive wahoo, there’s more than one way to see tournament fishing in The Bahamas.
Blue runner jacks might be a common fish in The Bahamas, but there is nothing common about seeing 5,000 of them sprawled on the beach after being hauled in by a team of fishermen. While this may be an informal example of tournament fishing in The Bahamas, it draws a crowd.
Every July in Green Castle, a southern settlement on Eleuthera, the community gathers for the Green Castle Hauler Fest. They haul the jacks with nets and then bail them to the shore as if plucking small fish from a fish tank. At this time of year, jacks school in large numbers around South Eleuthera.
A team of boats heads out to haul the fish. On their way back, there is a sprouting of the local grapevine—from house to house, word spreads in the community that “they hauling.” A mother calls her son. The son chats up his girlfriend. The girlfriend tells her best friend and before you know it, the community is gathered by the beach to buy or beg for their share of fish.
Haul ’em
Blue Runner Jacks support local fishermen (and fill hungry bellies).
In Green Castle, the tradition of hauling fish is intergenerational. Fishermen sell their fish on the island and in the capital, Nassau. There is an overabundance of supply during the festival that fishermen give much of their haul away to the community.
In fact, fishermen who don’t give enough away are occasionally accused of stinginess. And community members who don’t buy, which covers fisherman’s’ costs, are considered cheap. These colorful anecdotes aside, the event naturally draws the community and is a celebration of a longstanding fishing tradition that carries locals from childhood to adulthood. Onshore, activities also include live band performances, Bahamian crafts, food, and drinks.
Blue Runner Jacks are oily, dark meat fish that are relatively inexpensive in The Bahamas; however, they are common frying fish that locals either love or dislike. For those who have an appetite for the jack, orders are welcome in Green Castle. The Green Castle Hauler Fest is one of many fishing tournaments across the Islands of The Bahamas and takes place during the Bahamian Independence celebration (July 10th), and runs this year from July 10-14. bahamas.com
Tournament Fishing in The Bahamas
In the average calendar year, there are over a dozen fishing tournaments in The Bahamas that range from large World Cup qualifiers to small, community-based tournaments like the one in South Eleuthera. The country has a long history of competitive fishing. The Bahamas Billfish Championship, with over forty years under its belt, is the oldest billfish tournament series in the world. The event was held in five different locations during the spring and early summer but is off for this year.
The country’s waters are rich with schools of billfish, wahoo, dolphin, tuna, and kingfish. This is largely thanks to its geographic location which makes it a migratory pathway for big fish and fishing tournaments. They filter through the warm waters of the Gulf Stream and bring much record-setting fish, including the 1,119- pound blue marlin caught by the team of Double Dog when they broke The Bahamas record in 2011 after a three-hour fight to land it off Treasure Cay, Abaco. The bottom line for fishing enthusiasts is that choices abound throughout The Bahamas.
The Highest Paying Fishing Tournament in The Bahamas
Every November, MEAT MAYHEM and Resorts World Bimini host the Bimini Wahoo Mayhem Fishing Tournament, a favorite for serious tournament hoppers because it has the highest grand prize for Wahoo tournaments. In 2018, the tournament winner was guaranteed $40,000. Entries are capped at around 40 boats each year. Teams head out in the peak of Wahoo season. There are no boundaries in the tournament, so anglers can roam freely within the waters of The Bahamas in search of a prize-winning catch. The event is November 14-16, 2019.
World Cup Qualifiers
The best fishing teams around the world have their eyes set on competing in the prestigious Offshore World Championship Series. To make this happen, they first need an invitation to apply to compete. There are two qualifying tournaments in The Bahamas that grant automatic invitations to their winners, the Lyford Cay Offshore Invitational and the Harbourside Marine Bahamas Rotary Tuna Classic.
Wahooooo! Winner, winner!
Harbourside Marine Bahamas Rotary Tuna Classic
This qualifying fishing tournament includes two days of fishing, basically anywhere in The Bahamas. Weigh-in stations are distributed across six islands and include Spanish Wells, Great Harbour Cay, Freeport, Abaco, Nassau, and Bimini. This gives teams many options to spread out in search of the targeted fish: tuna, wahoo, and dolphin.
The grand tournament prize is for the heaviest tuna. Proceeds from this event go to charitable programs supported by the Rotary Club of East Nassau, an active non-profit operating in the capital. May 24-25, 2019.
Lyford Cay Offshore Invitational
The Lyford Cay Tournament runs for two days and took place this year from May 9-11 with about 20 boats competing, many from local waters. Winners of the Lyford Cay Tournament have typically fared very well at the world championships and secured runner-up status on several occasions. In 2013, the Lyford Cay Offshore tournament team produced a winning performance for The Bahamas, squeaking by 66 other teams.
An extended weekend on Captiva Island’s South Seas Island Resort creates moments and memories that linger.
When it comes to destination resorts, the type of accommodations, facilities and activities they offer and the guests they cater to run the gamut. You can find any kind of resort experience you’re looking for no matter whom you’re traveling with and how long you plan to stay. Some properties are geared specifically to adults on a partying weekend and provide all-inclusive bar and restaurant service. Others focus on romantic getaways for couples or offer large spaces and meeting rooms for conferences or tailor their furnishings and events to families with children of all ages.
Cruise into Luxury
There are few hybrid resorts that are able to offer a multitude of experiences that appeal to most but are presented as a guest experience that’s specific to individuals’ own tastes and preferences. Though it’s rare, I found this to be especially true when I spent several days with Julia, my “daughter-in-love” from Wisconsin, at South Seas Island Resort on Captiva Island, Florida.
Offshore cruisers on Florida’s Gulf Coast have easy access to the Yacht Harbour & Marina at South Seas Island Resort through Redfish Pass. Just inside the pass, turn south along the seawall and keeping green markers to port, turn to starboard into the well-marked channel just after green marker #9—you can’t miss it. Those with trailered boats 30 feet and smaller will drive to Bayside Marina in the South Village to use the ramp; overnight slips are available for boats under 25 feet.
Resort guests who prefer to leave their boats at home can still get out on the water with a fishing charter, sunset cruise or do what we did: take a sailing lesson through Steve and Doris Colgate’s Offshore Sailing School, which enables new sailors to earn US Sailing certification that qualifies them to skipper a boat up to 50 feet. Even though Julia and I are nowhere near ready to take a sailboat out by ourselves, the lesson was exciting and fun, and our instructor was very patient with our lack of experience and put us at ease—I highly recommend it. offshoresailing.com
Shellebrate the Good Times
South Seas Island Resort comprises 330 acres, but not all of it is built up with concrete buildings and tarmac roads. Much of it has been preserved in its natural setting, so for
nature buffs, wildlife and especially birds are prevalent on the property. Being from Wisconsin, Julia is familiar with wildlife there but particularly enjoyed seeing the dolphins
enter the marina as she watched from the patio of our two bedroom villa overlooking the marina entrance and Pine Island Sound. By the last day of our stay, she knew exactly
where to get a close-up view and take videos to share with her husband, daughters, and students. She’s a preschool teacher, so every experience is a learning opportunity, a
mindset we have in common.
South Seas Island Resort accommodations come in all shapes and sizes, so whether you’re traveling with a family, or on your honeymoon or on a girls’ trip, there’s an option
that suits. Love the beach? Stay in a beach villa or cottage, and make sure you get in on the weekly SHELLebration at Sunset Beach with live music from 4 PM to 7 PM. Traditional
hotel rooms, suites, villas, and even an entire house with a Gulf view can be found here.
If all you’re interested in is some R&R with quality pool time, you’ll be quite satisfied with
one of the private poolside cabanas. Julia and I recommend Cabana #1 that overlooks Pine Island Sound for some premium relaxation time with a view. When excessive amounts of R&R work up your appetite, there’s no shortage of dining options whether
you’re beachside, poolside, dockside, or cruising the island on your golf cart from Sunny Island Adventures.
Fill ‘er Up
Scoops & Slices is a cute diner with booths and tables that resembles an ice cream shop from the 1950s. One entire wall contains self-serve candy bins, so let this serve as a warning of major amounts of sugar coming your way. But this diner isn’t only for the kids in your crew. There’s also beer and wine on tap for the grown-ups, plus there are family-sized specials like spaghetti with meatballs (like mom used to make), garlic bread and salad that they’ll pack up for you to enjoy in your room or condo.
Even if you cook the majority of your meals in your own condo, you will not want to miss dining out at Harbourside Bar & Grill. The full breakfast menu with Gulf-caught shrimp and grits is a terrific way to start your morning overlooking the marina. Evening specials change frequently, but locally caught fresh seafood is always a favorite. As an added bonus, if you were especially lucky on a fishing charter, they will even clean and cook your catch for you. Make sure you save room for some delicious dessert. The pumpkin crème Brulee is sublime.
Whether you are on your honeymoon, traveling with friends, with a family, or just enjoying a long weekend getting to know your son’s wife a little bit better, South Seas
Island Resort not only accommodates but also customizes an experience that will foster memories that will last you a lifetime.
The Abaco Club on Winding Bay is designed to take members and guests away from the rigors of everyday life.
What vision comes to mind when you think of getting away from it all? A secluded beach? A beach bar? Standing on a golf course’s ocean cliffside green? A soothing spa treatment? Sipping a cup of coffee on a deck at sunrise as waves lap on the shore? Sounds heavenly, doesn’t it? The Abaco Club on Winding Bay in The Bahamas has all that and more.
The small, offshore barrier islands and cays that surround Great Abaco Island offer some of the finest boating and fishing in the world. Plus it hosts the fourth-largest reef system in the world that stretches for more than 100 miles. It’s home to innumerable species of spectacular sea life. Then there’s the warmth of the Bahamian sun, the crystal clear, turquoise waters, a horizon that reaches far beyond, and all the activities that go with it—fishing, snorkeling and diving, golf, tennis, and especially lazing by the pool or the beach. Letting the tensions ease is essential.
At the Beach
Winding Bay has more than two miles of soft sand beach protected by a coral reef and the small island of Sugar Cay. The main beach club area is tucked in behind the Ocean Point peninsula that keeps ocean swell at bay and offers a clean sand bottom that’s perfect for swimming.
The beach is the starting point for snorkeling, kayaking, Hobie Cat sailing, paddleboarding, and other water sports, including FunCat electric catamarans and water hammocks.
The Course and the Court
A big advantage to Abaco Club’s location is the property’s lengthy layout along the shoreline that allows for a Scottish-style links golf course. Designed by renowned golf course architects Donald Steel and Tom Mackenzie, it features pot bunkers and dunes, undulating fairways and greens and magnificent settings. A new, world-class practice facility with a double-ended range and a short-game practice area get you ready for your round. The Web.com Tour visits the Abaco Club in January to hold its Bahamas Great Abaco Classic.
For tennis buffs, there are two all-weather, hard surface tennis courts (the same ones used at the U.S. Open Tennis Championships) located in their own private enclave among the palms. Regular club competitions and instructional sessions are available as well as tennis camps, workouts and more.
Bahamian Fare
Part of enjoying The Bahamas is the island fare. Flippers Beach Bar serves made-to-order breakfast and lunch with an island smile. It’s part tiki hut, part sidewalk cafe, part casual bistro. It’s a low-key spot to relax with family and friends. Wednesday evening is barbecue night with the sounds of a local “rake ‘n’ scrape” band, beach bonfire and s’mores. Evening cocktails on the poolside patio and dinner are served at The Cliff House, an octagonal clubhouse that overlooks Winding Bay. Taste the catch of the day or try the fresh lobster, blackened grouper and conch chowder.
If you prefer a gourmet meal at home, the Abaco Club’s private catering chef will personally cook for your family and guests. Whether it’s for 2 or 20, from island-inspired menus with local produce to the fish you hooked earlier in the day—cleaned, filleted and prepared perfectly.
Body and Mind
The Abaco Clue rejuvenates and revitalizes your body and soul and a visit to the Club’s luxurious, full-service spa takes it to a new level. Therapeutic treatments like the Royal Hibiscus Signature Facial will leave you looking your best and feeling refreshed. To keep you in shape, both in body and mind, the fitness center features state-of-the-art Life Fitness equipment and
offers a range of wellness and exercise programs, including sunrise workout sessions on the beach.
On the Water
If you didn’t arrive by boat, you can schedule an excursion aboard the Club’s 54-foot motor yacht, The Duchess of Longwood, for a day cruise, a snorkel trip or island picnicking. Many Club members do own boats, and the Abaco Yacht Club at Little Harbour has marina services and docks for boats to 50 feet. Boat rentals and charters are also available.
The Club is partners with Blackfly Lodge to offer the best in blue water and flats fishing with guides to make your day a success.
The Abaco Club is a special place, a home away from home where members, their families, and guests can enjoy extraordinary experiences. Whether you’re searching for the Bahamian home of your dreams or wish to belong to a club offering the very finest in tropical beach activities, the Abaco Club cordially invites you to visit them on Winding Bay and discover its many charms.
Hurricane Hole Marina is a protective harbor, and it’s about to become part of a synergistic waterfront community.
Just over 50 years ago, the iconic Paradise Island was largely an undeveloped private island known as Hog Island. The name change was no accident, as it reflected a development vision for the five-mile-long barrier island that encloses the historic Nassau Harbour.
The setting was sublime. White-sand beaches run along the entire north shore of the island, the southern, harbor-facing side has a long-standing reputation as a boater’s haven and the island’s proximity to the mainland is so close that it was easy to envision bridges connecting the island to the capital, Nassau.
How We Got Here
Bit by bit, developer by developer, the vision of a vacation paradise manifested itself on Paradise Island. Today, the upscale resort and residential community account for a lion’s share of the tourism economy in The Bahamas, in large part due to the success of the oceanside resort Atlantis, Paradise Island.
Homeowners and guests on the island have some 30 restaurants to choose from, an 18-hole, par 72 championship course, one of the largest casinos in the region, along with luxury shopping, nightlife, entertainment, and outdoor adventure.
With all that Paradise Island has going for it, what more could a $300 million investment do that has not been done already? A whole lot, according to the development plans for Hurricane Hole, the legendary marina property that has always been a starring character in the Nassau boating scene.
Hurricane Hole
For the majority of its more than 50-year history, the most prestigious yachts cruising through The Bahamas have clamored for a spot at Hurricane Hole Marina. Before the Atlantis Marina opened in 1996 or the more recent Bay Street Marina, Hurricane Hole was the only transient marina in Nassau Harbour that could accommodate large yachts.
In the next few months, the marina is expected to undergo $12 million in renovations that will increase its dock space from 3,500 to 5,500 linear feet, add concrete floating docks with slips up to 500 feet, create a minimum 12-foot depth throughout the marina, and significantly expand the service offerings with a new fitness center, lounge and laundry for boat owners and their crew. Renovations are planned for completion by fall 2020.
On their own, these long-desired changes are expected to receive a warm welcome from the boating community, but they pale in significance to the broader development plans for the 13-acre property, which is not just about renovating a marina. The developers, Sterling Global Financial, intend to create an entire waterfront living environment unique to Paradise Island and The Bahamas that represents “the ultimate place for boats to visit and for those who love to be around boats to live.” It is planned to flawlessly integrate the convenience and connectivity of city living with the best of yachting life and the supreme quality of island living.
Where it Goes
That means a mixed-use development with luxury condominiums, workspaces and waterfront restaurants gazing over a legendary marina. That means urban conveniences not currently available on Paradise Island, including a gourmet grocery store, medical clinic, pharmacy, dry cleaner, liquor, and wine store, and hair and nail salon located on the property and all within easy walking distance. To complete the convergence of the sea, the city and the island ethos, there’s the actual location.
“We have one of the best addresses in the world,” says Khaalis Rolle, senior
executive vice president of Sterling Global Financial. “It is the last great piece of real estate for a mixed-use development on Paradise Island. This will not only be a transformation of Paradise Island but a completion, as we are adding everything that doesn’t currently exist to make it a livable community.”
Bill Green, president of Sterling Global Developments, describes the vision for Hurricane Hole as “urban connected, downtown living on the Paradise Island waterfront.” In fact, the developers are hoping to popularize the notion that the new Hurricane Hole represents downtown Paradise Island.
The property is 13-acres large, which seems small in real terms for downtown, but given the fact that Paradise Island is only five miles long, the notion is certainly plausible. The property will “not have a wall around it,” says Green about the public gathering spaces and pedestrian areas. “It is intended to be synergistic” with the neighboring environs, particularly the Atlantis Marina Village, which is a marina-facing promenade of restaurants, cafes and retail shops with a distinctly Bahamian cultural aesthetic.
What’s Ahead
The new development broke ground in January, and the residential units for the first condominium complex were released for sale in March. Overall occupancy is expected by early 2021.
The first phase in the development features Sterling Commons, a three-story, mixed-use residential and commercial property with 12 exclusive, top-level residential lofts, and a standalone grocery store. The second phase will feature One Paradise Island, a residential complex with two, seven-story sister buildings and two standalone waterfront restaurants. Future phases will bring additional residential condominiums.
Sterling Global is not new to real estate development in The Bahamas. The international financial services company, with nearly $10 billion under its administration and management, financed the Courtyard Marriott resort redevelopment in downtown Nassau and Ocean Terraces on West Bay Street. They are also in the process of developing Beach House Villas, also on Paradise Island, and are considering major Family Island developments on Matt Lowe’s Cay, Abaco and at Sky Beach, Eleuthera.
True Paradise
When the development is complete, Hurricane Hole will be more than its name implies. It will complete the island’s role as a yachting destination and provide a place where yachts, owners, families, and guests can tuck in for a time and enjoy paradise.
The island’s waterfront is transforming, but what does a changing Nassau mean for boaters?
The contours across the coast and the skyline of the historic city of Nassau will completely reshape itself in three to five years. In 10 years, Nassau’s long-awaited renaissance will be self-evident. Three private sector developments are currently underway: The Nassau Cruise Port, the Downtown Nassau Boardwalk and The Pointe Residences and Resort Development. If all goes as planned, this changing Nassau will inject more than $500 million into the city.
It’s been a common lament that Nassau fails to live up to its potential as a city, notwithstanding the fact that downtown Nassau attracts over three million cruise passengers to its shores annually. At night, restaurants close and the city falls silent, with the exception of a few bars and clubs that struggle to attract a substantial number of Bahamians and visitors—cruise ships very rarely stay overnight.
Unlike most major cities around the world, Nassau has no waterfront residences or commercial conveniences necessary to make a livable space. In recent times, the Downtown Nassau Partnership (DNP) and Creative Nassau have been pushing the revival agenda forward. Creative Nassau led the effort to have UNESCO designate Nassau a Creative City of Crafts and Folk Arts. The DNP led the $1.5 million upgrade of Pompey Square in 2013, a recreational hotspot, and continues to be responsible for its maintenance and other downtown operations.
For over 15 years, the dream of a downtown renaissance has eluded Bahamians. Interested parties have watched development plan after development plan linger and
languish only to end up in a black hole. Could it be that the wait is finally over? At least three major, privately funded developments are set to transform downtown Nassau.
Nassau Cruise Port
Global Ports Holding, one of the world’s largest international cruise port operators, won the bid to redevelop and run the Prince George Wharf and related areas at the Nassau Cruise Port. The $250 million development anticipates completion in 2022 when downtown Nassau is expected to transform into a modern, world-class port, waterfront and entertainment venue.
The winning consortium will have a 25-year concession at Prince George Wharf, taking over operations from a government agency. The new facility will include more berths,
a new iconic terminal building with LED digital signage, open-air restaurants and kiosks for vendors, and an open-air walkway with functional sculptures that provide shade by day and illuminated light art by night.
The island’s waterfront is transforming, but what does a changing Nassau mean for boaters?
Cultural activists have long sought a prominent location for a Junkanoo museum to showcase the history and culture of The Bahamas. The new port will house the museum with its own multimedia exhibits along with an open-air amphitheater equipped to host local and international concerts, shows and special events.
Changing Downtown
“We believe that the redeveloped cruise port will be the catalyst for the turnaround of the downtown area,” says Anthony Ferguson, president of Colina Financial Advisors Ltd. “It will be the impetus to move things forward in terms of finally getting a downtown that will attract nightlife, more businesses and, hopefully, condominium developments.”
Nassau Cruise Port Ltd. will form as a special purpose vehicle to manage the port with Global Ports Holding controlling 49 percent of its equity. The Bahamas Investment Fund, a vehicle that will pool investments from thousands of Bahamians, will hold 49 percent, and the YES Foundation, established to fund youth, educational and sporting activities will control the remaining two percent. “The most important part of the whole development is to bring in the citizens having the ability to participate in the development and the activities and business opportunities,” says Ferguson. “That is fundamental to our proposal. It is not just developing the cruise port, but it is also developing the other areas that would attract Bahamians and cruisers alike.”
Downtown Boardwalk
When the downtown boardwalk is complete, the experience of the Nassau Harbour will be equally as grand from the land as from the sea. The boating community has long favored the Nassau Harbour, and the boardwalk intends to make Nassau’s waterfront a vibrant social space with restaurants and access to retail. The 12-foot-wide boardwalk will run from the edge of the Cruise Port to Potter’s Cay Dock.
Earlier this year, the DNP received the needed go-ahead from the government for the project to proceed. Several parts of the boardwalk have already been developed behind privately owned properties, but linking the entire stretch required permission to traverse three government properties.
The Pointe
Of all the developments in progress, The Pointe is the furthest along. The $250 million project includes luxury residences, marina, mixed-use plaza, and resort. Located next to the British Colonial Hilton, the seven-story parking garage has opened up 900 new parking spots, helping to address a critical infrastructure problem downtown. Seven, an office and retail building is now open and includes a movie theater, bowling alley, and a virtual reality games room.
The Pointe’s 126 luxury oceanfront condos are on the market for sale. Construction continues on the luxury marina residences of One Particular Harbour. The 45-slip, deep-water marina and yacht club can accommodate yachts up to 150 feet and will connect to a mixed-use outdoor plaza that features a winding boardwalk, retail shopping, restaurants, and other amenities. The Margaritaville Beach Resort and Waterpark will offer 150 rooms, eight restaurants, including a rooftop restaurant. The Pointe is expected to open spring 2020. Its towering structures have already reshaped Bay Street.
There are a number of other projects happening in tandem with these developments. Those include the relocation and redesign of The Bahamas Central Bank and the development of a “Central Park.” Downtown Nassau is shaping up its skyline in a magnificent way.
A sailor recalls tips for crossing the gulf stream and its effects on his route.
Mother Nature is a tough teacher: She usually gives the test before the lesson. If she used a textbook, the page for boaters would include a line that says, “Never cross the Gulf Stream in anything but a south wind.” Here are my tips for crossing the Gulf Stream.
Riding the last of the ebb tide on the St. Johns River in Jacksonville, Florida, my brother Dan and I passed Mayport and cleared the channel at sunset to begin the first offshore
portion of a voyage to Nassau, The Bahamas, where we would meet up with our family for the holidays. My brother was new to ocean sailing, so I hoped for a gentle first night,
but the wind blew in our faces and made for a slow and uncomfortable trip south along the coast.
We traveled in UKIYO, my Catalina 34, in and out of the Intracoastal Waterway and as we approached Vero Beach, the wind clocked around to the west, so we pressed on into the night. When we reached St. Lucie Inlet, the winds strengthened from the north, and we had a quick ride down to Hillsboro Inlet where we topped off the diesel for a final run on large northerly swells to Miami.
Ready to Go
The s/v UKIYO made it to Gun Cay, after a rough ride across the Gulf Stream.
Dan quickly adapted to life aboard and asked, “Why don’t we cross over to The Bahamas now?” I liked his adventurous spirit, but I demurred and repeated Mother Nature’s lesson.
We grabbed a slip in Miami and made it a point to call our wives and kids to check in, hear about their fun adventures in Nassau and made sure to give them our float plan, an essential part of cruising. For an inspection check, went through the equipment, fluid levels, batteries, electrical connections, replaced the fuel filter, and checked the weather. We planned for a 0230 departure.
Winds were forecasted to clock around to the east after midnight and stay that way for three days—not the best news, but it was better than north, right? We donned our life preservers, rechecked the equipment, pulled anchor, and headed out Government Cut on an ebb tide with a light east wind. At the Cut’s entrance to the Atlantic, we met barn-sized breaking swells. This, of course, made travel slow and uncomfortable.
We started to second-guess our departure, especially when a dredger, which occupied half the channel and was struggling to hold station, spotted us and blew the danger signal (five short blasts of his horn) because we must have appeared to be an out-of-control vessel. We curtly exchanged greetings on the radio and carefully passed him to starboard.
I sensed Dan was a bit apprehensive, so I tried to put a good face on our situation.
No Improvements
“It’s always bad in inlets,” I shouted over the sound of the engine at full throttle. “Once we get out, it’ll be better.” Unfortunately, that wasn’t the case, but I set the autopilot to 132 degrees magnetic to account for the northward set of the Gulf Stream and assured my crewmate that we only had 44 miles to Gun Cay, our crossing destination, and the
warm waters of the Great Bahama Bank.
I cannot overstress the importance of reliable navigation equipment. The horizon was pitch black and without a magnetic compass and GPS, it was easy to feel disoriented and veer off course. The glow of an inbound ship appeared ahead, and I hailed it to confirm they could see us on the radar. They did, and I silently commended myself for recently installing a radar reflector, and the same for the fuel filter; as a wave pitched and rolled
us, my thoughts went to the gunk that was surely getting stirred up in the fuel tank.
Shortly after sunrise, the depth sounder went blank, and the water became the deepest blue I had ever seen. Flying fish skittered ahead as huge waves gently lifted us to foamy crests glistening in the morning light, then gently set us down again in the troughs.
Even on a lonely sea, there’s always a risk of collision. It’s important to do a 360-degree sweep of the horizon frequently. Out of nowhere, the giant Bimini SuperFast Ferry crossed
our path and came close enough for us to see the passengers’ amused faces on the poop deck.
Tips for Crossing the Gulf Stream
The Gulf Stream current ranges from one to 12 miles off the South Florida coast and is approximately 45 miles wide. Its speed is generally between two and four knots. Wind
affects surface waters and when it is in the opposite direction of the current, can produce rough seas—wave heights increase and can break, which causes more stress on the hull (and slows you down). The advice to cross in a south wind rings true. As it was, an east wind crossing the current sideways didn’t help much either. Another hazard is due to
the Gulf Stream’s warm waters, which can create its own weather, particularly thunderstorms with lightning, heavy rain and strong winds. The current affects every boat, whether power or sail.
After noon, the wind backed just enough for us to raise the reefed mainsail and make for a much more stable ride and, finally, some hot coffee and grub. However, the updated
forecast for continued east winds did nothing to buck up our spirits. We posted hourly GPS positions to the chart and it was obvious that despite the offset to our heading, our track was farther north than expected. We crossed the Gulf Stream by sunset but were
several miles northwest of Gun Cay; time to correct to a southeast heading.
Happy Ending
A long night passed, but the lights of Bimini to the southeast kept us focused. It wasn’t until predawn when we could see the silhouette of Gun Cay lighthouse. Another valuable lesson: The navigation lights in The Bahamas don’t always work.
Gingerly, we transited the pass, hoisted the Q flag (signaling we had not checked in) and carried on. After 47 adventurous (and educational) hours from Jacksonville, we anchored on the Great Bahama Bank at 0145 for a meal and a few hours respite; happy in the knowledge that we successfully made the crossing and were within a day’s sail to Nassau and a family Christmas.
By Capt. Robert Beringer, Southern Boating May 2019
Take a closer look in the sky, along the water’s edge, and in the trees to see birds in The Bahamas.
The Bahamas archipelago comprises several hundred islands, cays, and islets. Many are uninhabited. They form a subtropical chain stretching more than 600 miles southeastward from the latitude of the southern Florida coast almost to Cuba. The islands are home to an enormous variety of resident bird species. They also lie close to major migration routes, providing seasonal homes for many species and stopovers for transient
birds making longer journeys.
Here is a glimpse of the Birds in The Bahamas’ and where to find them.
The National Bird
When The Bahamas became an independent Commonwealth realm nearly 50 years ago, it adopted the flamingo as its national bird. Flamingos, once a common sight, were hunted to near extinction, but, fortunately, disaster was averted on Inagua. Its protected wetlands, now a vast national park, is home to the largest flamingo colony in the world. “Fillymingos” are also found on Andros and in smaller numbers or as vagrants elsewhere. Thanks to timely conservation initiatives, the national bird’s future is safe.
The Bahama Woodstar
Endemic Species
The Bahamas has six unique bird species. The Inagua Woodstar is the most recently recognized (2015) as a species distinct from the endemic Bahama Woodstar, which is found on other islands. The rarest endemic species is the critically endangered Bahama Oriole, a gorgeous bird found only on Andros since its extirpation from Abaco in the 1990s. For any birder, it is a prized “Lifer.” Intensive conservation measures are being taken to protect the habitat of the tiny, localized population. Other more widespread endemics include the Bahama Yellowthroat found on just six islands; the Bahama Warbler, found only on Grand Bahama and Abaco islands and the rare, endangered Bahama Swallow found in the northern islands.
Specialty Resident Birds
The most famous of the “resident” birds are the local species of Cuban Parrot, the Bahama Parrot. The growing Abaco population, rescued in the recent past from near-extinction, uniquely nests underground in the limestone caves of the National Park. Its cousins on Inagua nest conventionally in trees. For those visiting Nassau, there is a small (around two dozen) group of the parrots, mostly on the east side, but you’ll hear them before you see them.
Two other species are noteworthy. You’ll find the handsome West Indian Woodpecker primarily on Abaco, where it is quite common. They are also found in small numbers on
San Salvador and occasionally reported on Grand Bahama. The melodious Bahama Mockingbird is another local treasure. You can find it on most islands but isn’t endemic to The Bahamas. The population as spread to Turks & Caicos and small areas of Cuba and Jamaica.
Rare Migratory Birds
Two winter visitors are of enormous significance and interest for birders. The Kirtland’s Warbler breeds in limited areas of Michigan and Ohio. In winter, they head for The Bahamas, favoring the northern islands. Don’t rely on luck alone; you’ll need an experienced guide to locate them. The hot spots are on Abaco (mainly in the National Park), Eleuthera and Cat Island. The Piping Plover is another important winter visitor. These tiny, scarce birds arrive in The Bahamas each fall. Many return to the same location each year, due to the safe habitat of their preferred areas. These are mainly on Abaco, Andros, and Eleuthera. Abaco, in conjunction with organizations, has a conservation program in the breeding grounds.
Warblers
The Kirtland Warbler migrates to The Bahamas each winter.
There are more than 40 recorded warbler species in The Bahamas, mostly migratory from North America. Each fall, the common, the less frequently seen and the rare arrive in large numbers. There are a handful of year-round resident warblers, such as the Olive-capped Warbler- found only on Grand Bahama and Abaco.
Although the density of many species of migratory warblers is greater in the northern Bahamas, all the islands have their regular visitors with the chance of rarer species stopping by. The abundance of warblers demonstrates the great benefit of the archipelago’s position in relation to migration routes.
Other Species of Note
You’ll find the Iridescent Cuban Emerald hummingbirds on Grand Bahama, Abaco and Andros, though rarely elsewhere. The White-tailed Tropicbird, magnificent frigatebirds and a wide variety of gulls, terns and other sea birds patrol the seas throughout the archipelago.
A Cuban Emerald Hummingbird.
The shores and wetlands are locally rich in Sanderling and Plover species throughout The Bahamas. All the islands have healthy populations of herons, egrets and water birds. The Red-legged Thrush, also found in Cuba and Hispaniola, is another notable resident, mostly in the northern Bahamas. In the coppice, keen eyes will see the lovely Western Spindalis on most islands. The Thick-billed Vireo, another Bahamas specialty bird, is ubiquitous—you’ll often hear their distinctive, cheerful call.
The reputation of The Bahamas as a prime birding destination has increased dramatically in the new millennium. National parks, preserves and protected areas both on land and in the sea have been created or expanded. Birders will see beautiful birds. You can’t miss the shades of blue, but don’t forget The Bahamas’ other colors.
The national parks on San Salvador Island are now a reality.
It is widely believed that San Salvador Island is where Christopher Columbus first stepped ashore in the “New World” on his first expedition in 1492. There have been scientific studies using computer simulations of wind and water currents as well as scrutiny of the log’s copy and its measurements that lead to Samana Cay and Plana Cays, but without concrete evidence or actually being there when it happened, San Salvador remains the popular choice.
History
Columbus made landfall in Guanahani, the island’s original name, on October 12, 1492. However, Columbus renamed the island San Salvador in thanks to the “Holy Savior.” In the 17th century, the island was known as Watling Island until 1926 when it was renamed San Salvador because beliefs at the time concluded that the island was the actual landfall location. The name was taken away from the present Cat Island which some thought was the first landfall.
The Lucayans made up the population back in 1492 who lived by fishing and through agriculture. Within a few years, they were taken into slavery to Hispaniola and
were all but gone from The Bahamas by around 1513. The islands were somewhat deserted after that until around 1648 when English colonists settled on Eleuthera. The islands were an ideal hideout for pirates, but order was restored when The
The Bahamas became a British colony in 1718. American Loyalists were settled in The Bahamas after the Revolutionary War and in the 1820s when Florida ceded from Spain to the United States, African slaves and Seminoles fled to the islands. Slavery was abolished in 1834.
Riding Rock Resort and Marina.
The Bahamas played its role during wartime, particularly when enemy forces tried to stop oil shipments from Venezuela and the Gulf of Mexico. During the Cold War, Naval Facility
San Salvador was commissioned in September 1954 partly to track Soviet submarines. Located on the north side of the island, the station was decommissioned in January 1970 and is now the Gerace Research Centre.
Island Life
San Salvador Island is an exposed peak of a submerged mountain that rises 15,000 feet from the ocean’s floor and has one of the most unique-looking landscapes in The Bahamas. The land is full of undulating hills, beautiful beaches, numerous saltwater lakes, and amazing reefs that surround the greater part of the island.
The shelf surrounding the island reaches up to 131 feet deep, then abruptly drops to around 2.5 miles deep. The “Land of Lakes” has at its center Great Lake which stretches the length (10 miles) of the island and is two miles wide. The numerous lakes on the island connect with each other and were the primary way to travel between settlements. A paved road now encircles the island and the lakes are left to their own habitat which includes several species of birds, such as the Yellow Warbler. Breeding seabirds are drawn to the cays around Grahams Harbour on the northern shore. The lagoon is also popular
to snorkelers where they can spot hundreds of fish species.
Birders will find abundant frigatebirds, tropicbirds, and shearwaters along San Salvador’s shoreline. The western coast is on the island’s lee side and has steep drop-offs and wall reefs that make it the perfect spot for scuba divers. Riding Rock Resort & Marina has a dive staff to accommodate any level of experience. The full-service marina provides easy access to fish the deep waters for blue marlin, dolphin, wahoo, and more. Boats up to 140 feet with an 8-foot draft (at low tide) can take advantage of fresh water, fuel, electric
hook-ups and the like before heading back to the mainland or cruising other islands and beyond.
Protection
San Salvador Island sits east of the Great Bahama Bank on its own isolated limestone platform lined with rocky and sandy shorelines. Its distance from the major shipping routes and tourist destinations has kept its ecosystem somewhat untouched.
The Gerace Research Centre on the north side of the island is a field-based classroom that offers housing and labs for researchers, teachers, and students interested in geology, biology, ecology, archaeology, and the marine sciences.
The Bahamas National Trust is working with a local nongovernment organization to establish a national park system on the island to preserve its fragile ecosystems. Five areas were identified in 2015 and are now formally approved as the San Salvador National Parks. In October 2018, the National Trust signed a shared management agreement with the San Salvador Living Jewels Foundation to care for and promote the “living jewels” of the island.
San Salvador is home to many monuments, ruins, and shipwrecks, which reflects its rich history. This includes an underwater monument that allegedly marks the spot where the Pinta dropped anchor. The island’s reefs, cliffs, inland lakes, and vegetation are spectacularly diverse, which is why the parks were established.
Southern Great Lake National Park
This park area includes the Great Lake on the interior of the island which also includes the mangroves up to the highwater mark. There are at least three different types of reptiles
living on the islets within the Great Lake, including the highly endangered San Salvador Rock iguana. Many birds call the island home, including some herons and cormorants. Now, the nesting ground is protected.
Pigeon Creek and Snow Bay National Park
Pigeon Creek is the islands’ only is the only tidal body of water that flows into an inlet. The mangroves and seagrass beds make it the perfect nursery for all kinds of juvenile marine life from groupers to starfish, stingrays to sharks and turtles. San Salvador, isolated from the Bahama Banks, relies on Pigeon Creek and Snow Bay for fisheries replenishment.
Graham’s Harbour Iguana and Seabird National Park This park area with its extensive seagrass and eelgrass beds as well as coral reef serve as a very important breeding ground for conch and other marine animals. It also houses a number of cays, such as Green Cay, home to the largest population of San Salvador Rock Iguanas, and the Cato, Gaulin and White Rock Cay nesting sites for migrating sea birds. San Salvador
has more species of sea birds nesting on and around these Cays than any other Island in The Bahamas.
West Coast Marine Park
For over 40 years, San Salvador has been a dive community. It was once ranked number three for diving spots in the world by Dive magazine and Scuba magazine. Designating this site for protection ensures an increase in the fish populations within the area which means more for the divers to see, increased tourist dollars to this already lucrative market and ensuring further stimulation of the island’s economy.
Green’s Bay National Park
This area protects a major iguana population on Crab Cay. Its rocky shoreline also helps to protect visiting white-tailed tropicbirds and Audubon’s shearwaters. The peninsula
protects the reefs from potential dangers from Storrs Lake, a salt pond, which should open to the sea.
These five areas of ecological importance will allow the preservation of the island’s natural habitat and ecosystem as well as provide nature seekers, divers and snorkelers, fishermen, and naturalists an opportunity to learn, experience and enjoy the best of The Bahamas in one place.
