Six friends head off to discover a less-traveled Hellenic Republic.
A trip to cruise the Greek islands has been on our bucket list for years. When we finally got the chance, we made our plans, worked with The Moorings to book a luxury power catamaran, bought our tickets, and headed off on an adventure way beyond our expectations. Instead of going southeast toward the well-known Cyclades islands, we chose to head southwest to the less-traveled Saronic and Argolic Gulf regions to encounter fewer tourists and a more authentic experience.
Day 1: Arrival
We started in Athens to get acclimated and stayed in the popular Plaka area known for beautiful shops, restaurants, and markets. Plaka is right next to the Acropolis, which was a perfect place to start our historical adventure.
Day 2: Stepping Aboard
It was a short transport to The Moorings home base at Marina Zeas in the port city Piraeus. That’s where we first laid our eyes on the beautiful 46-foot power catamaran Cezanne, our home for the next seven days.
Check-in was easy and while the staff prepped and provisioned the boat, we walked to a marina restaurant for lunch. Key to this process was that we arranged for the provisioning online ahead of time. This was very convenient and saved a lot of time, plus they deliver right to your boat. You can always “fill in” with fresh fruit and pastries at the local markets located within walking distance.
The Moorings are experts in this business and have thought about every detail to ensure guests have an easy start to their vacation. We left the dock for our first island, Poros, a leisurely three-hour cruise. Poros is rich in history, including the site of the Temple of Poseidon.
We have taken several Moorings bareboat charters, but this was our first time with a hired captain, and we loved it! See the sidebar for the benefits of hiring a captain. It made the cruise much more relaxing.
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Day 3: Poros to Ermioni
After coffee on the top deck, we headed out for a long stroll on the streets of Poros. We did some shopping, bought sandwiches, and stopped at the butcher and the bakery for fresh provisions. Then we released the lines and cruised to a beautiful cove called Love Bay before moving on to Russia Bay where Russia first docked its ships when helping the Greeks during the revolution against the Turks. Now it’s a beautiful beach with the ruins as a backdrop.
Our captain took us onward, and about 90 minutes later, we stopped in Soupia Bay for a swim and lunch on board before heading to the quaint village of Ermioni, our stop for the night. We docked right in the center of the village, and the promenade was filled with wonderful restaurants and kids playing in the public square.
Day 4: Ermioni to Monemvasia
We set sail around 9:30AM for a four-hour cruise south to Monemvasia. This was the longest leg of our trip, around 55 miles. Founded in the 6th century, it is one of the oldest continually inhabited fortified towns in Europe. The town’s walls and Byzantine churches still remain as testaments to the town’s history. Monemvasia has wonderful shops, restaurants, and bars creatively incorporated within the stone façades. This area should be on everyone’s bucket list.
Day 5: Spetses
A careless island, except for a few taxis, Spetses is most known for Bouboulina, one of the most influential figures in the Greek War of Independence and the first island to deploy the flag of the revolution in April 1821. As we approached the island, we experienced a most unusual way of docking. A gentleman comes out in a small boat, takes your line to tie off of his seawall, which is also a restaurant where he hopes you will dine that evening. Then you take your tender the very short distance to shore to explore. This is the only time we needed to use our inflatable tender.
Day 6: Hydra
We started off early, eager to get to Hydra, a very popular island with no cars, only donkeys. The docks are very crowded and usually taken by late morning, so our captain decided to give us the experience of an overnight in a quiet cove. We didn’t use a common method to secure our vessel such as a mooring ball or anchor, but instead, one that requires a little swimming. Under the direction of Capt. George, all three guys on board jumped in the water and swam ashore where large boulders lined the coastline. They would serve as our stern “anchor.” The guys lassoed our lines down low on the boulders to ensure they wouldn’t slip off during the night. We chatted about that for quite a while.
After that refreshing swim, we called for a water taxi to take us to town for shopping, strolling, dinner, then back to the boat. Pure silence overnight in our secluded cove provided quality slumber.
Again, another benefit of hiring a captain, George knew where to moor, called the water taxi, negotiated the price, suggested where to dine, then arranged the return taxi. It was seamless so we could enjoy the evening without a care.
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Day 7: Back North to Aegina
Unfortunately, the length of our stay was nearing the end, so we headed back north to the village of Perdika on the island of Aegina in the Saronic Islands. There are many historic sites on the island, including the famous Temple of Athena Aphaia (the oldest surviving temple in Greece) and the Monastery of Agios Nektarios. Besides fine pottery and bronze products, the island is also known for producing some of the world’s best pistachios. You can purchase pretty much anything made with pistachios. We tried ice cream and pistachio butter; both were delicious.
Day 8: What a Trip
We stretched out our last full day on the boat as much as we could before docking back at Marina Zea. Our captain gave us a route back that only locals would know. We circled the entire island of Agistri, weaving in and out of bays, touring magnificent scenery, hilltop homes, and swimming in coves such as Moni Bay, Dorousa Islet, and Aponisos Beach.
It was truly an amazing trip and quite different than any other Moorings charter we have taken. It had more layers of interest and learning than a fun-filled, sun-loving, swimming type of charter. We enjoyed trying new foods and experiencing how other parts of the world “do” boating.
Chartering is the best way to enjoy boating around the world in an economical way. We can’t wait to do it again! Check out the moorings.com to book your vacation.
Extra Tips
On Your Plate
Most villages have easy access to local bakeries, shops, and restaurants for breakfast and dinners. It is suggested to provision plenty for lunches, snacks, and water, including enough for the captain. It may be difficult to pull into a port of choice or you may want to keep cruising.
Very Demure, Very Mindful
Temperatures can vary due to wind conditions so pack a light sweater or jacket. Less is more, everything is very casual. Ladies, no need to pack heels of any kind. Most docking is traditional stern-to “Mediterranean mooring” on town quays utilizing a narrow gangway for boarding.
Sea it This Way
Hiring a captain provided a different experience while still keeping us involved in handling lines, the gangway and other tasks. We were able to completely relax and take in the beauty of our surroundings. Our captain listened to what we were looking for in the days ahead and he took care of everything from there. He knew all the uncharted coves and caves and areas free of tourists. In addition, numerous European countries have specific license requirements to bareboat charter and can be timely to acquire. All Moorings destinations are designated with an experience level 1-3. Several are at a 3, including our Greece itinerary so it makes sense to have someone who knows the local waters, customs, and language. For example, when docking stern-to it is standard to drop anchor 100 feet or more before backing into the bulkhead. We wouldn’t have known that without a captain.
By: Michele Allen
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