Category: Caribbean

Monthly Regional Reports for the Caribbean are posted the first week of each month so you’ll find the best of the Caribbean! The Caribbean islands offer an array of experiences for boaters. From unique cultures in St. Maarten to world-renowned diving in Belize, the region has it all. Southern Boating’s articles provide helpful insight into traveling the Caribbean by boat—including features on regions such as: Puerto Rico, Antigua, Belize, Grenada, St. Maarten, the British Virgin Islands, Aruba, St. Lucia and more. Monthly updates include news about events, fishing tournaments, and sailing regattas. Detailed cruising guides can be found in thoroughly researched articles by Southern Boating experts.

St. Barth

St. Barth: Worth the trip and the budget

Although my family can hardly be included among the glitterati, enchanting St. Barthelemy—more commonly known as St. Barth—is our favorite landfall. Red-tiled roofs saunter down immaculately kept hillsides and stop just short of a stunning turquoise harbor where megayachts line the flower-bedecked quay. All manner of sailing and power vessels crowd the outer anchorages and inner mooring field for good reason: exquisite cuisine, duty-free French shops, glistening beaches, beautiful people, storybook cottages, picture-postcard scenery, and one of the safest ports in the Lesser Antilles.

Scarcely eight square miles of arid volcanic rock, the tidy, sophisticated, picturesque St. Barth is a bit of an anomaly among the islands. The buttoned-up Capitainerie keeps a sharp eye on comings and goings in the harbor, and the effective but fairly invisible gendarmes watch what happens ashore. Clearing in, despite the challenge of using a French keyboard, is a pleasantly efficient experience. A plethora of stern-to berths house superyachts just a few feet from charming downtown Gustavia, the island’s capital. Large, frequently crowded anchorages sprawl along the south side of the harbor entrance and north of the commercial pier. The most popular is northwest of Fort Oscar, an easy dinghy ride to the town quay. The inner harbor’s bow-stern mooring field is more convenient and comfortable if there is an open spot that matches your LOA. There is also side-to and stern-to dockage seaward of the mega-docks, but keep in mind that winter swells make for rolling nights aboard, which explains its general availability.

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Pretty St. Barth is that quintessential island paradise that every cruiser hopes to find but rarely does. The casual, easy-going vibe softens its reputation as a playground for the rich and famous. Wander the streets of Gustavia—poke into winding alleys, climb the steep narrow roadways for birds-eye views of that magnificent harbor, and stroll the shoreline walkway that circumnavigates the main basin. Rise early for freshly baked croissants, baguettes or galettes. Provision the boat or gather a beach picnic in one of the local France-sourced markets or gourmet take-out “traiteurs.” Expect good buys on wine and liquor. For an overview of the island’s French and Dutch history visit the small, charming Municipal Museum on La Pointe next to the Town Hall “Mairie.” A hike up to Fort Gustav at the northern end of the harbor or Fort Karl at the southern end adds depth to the history lesson, along with stunning views. st-barths.com/museum

St. Barthelemy was discovered by Christopher Columbus on his second voyage and named for his older brother Bartolomeo. One hundred fifty years later, two consecutive French colonies struggled for survival, but in 1674 a band of Norman Huguenots arrived and the island was used to provide services to the French pirates who were plundering Spanish galleons. Fastforward another hundred years when France’s Louis XVI negotiated a deal with Sweden’s Gustav III and traded St. Barthelemy for Gothenburg. King Gustav invested heavily in his new possession with three forts—Gustav, Karl and Oscar—guarding the newly designed town with paved streets and Euro-style stone buildings. The new duty-free trading zone brought a rush of prosperity, but by the end of the 19th century, St. Barth had been badly battered by a series of natural disasters. Oscar II could see little benefit to his predecessor’s investment and ceded the island back to France.

By the mid-twentieth century, adventurous travelers and a few uber wealthy Americans led by David Rockefeller had discovered this quiet backwater. As tourism gradually became St. Barth’s financial engine, the citizenry protected the island’s uniqueness by enacting zoning regulations that discouraged high-rises and large resorts. Together with Guadeloupe, St. Barth was once a full-fledged department (province) of France, but on July 15, 2007, the local citizens voted to become an almost-autonomous Overseas Collectivity with a Territorial Council, President and representative in the French Senate.

Nevertheless, it still feels French, and except for the 14 spectacular sand beaches that ring the island, it could be a quiet stretch of the Cote d’Azure—topless sunbathing is standard, nudity less so. Be sure to tote an umbrella, because shade is elusive on almost all St. Barth sand and a chair/umbrella rental can be hard to come by—for that elusive shade, try Flammand, a long, wide stretch of silky soft sand. Shell Beach is a short walk from the Gustavia docks and sports a popular lunch spot, weekend festivals and tiny pink shells. Pebbly Public Beach offers convenience off the northern anchorage near the commercial pier and is littered with Optis and Lasers. The other beaches require a car. For surfing, try Lorient or Anse des Cayes. Corossol’s beach is tiny and rocky, but the allure is a glimpse of a small fishing village, where some of the old Norman and Breton ways continue. Be sure to visit the Inter Oceans Museum (Museum of Shells).

A couple-hundred couture and pret-a-porter shops edge Gustavia’s duty-free harbor—think Hermes, Cartier and Louis Vuitton. For luxury goods, this is the best bargain stop in the Lesser Antilles. In the midst of all this glamour is Le Ship, a well-supplied chandlery that can also direct you to the island’s many yacht services. For the stylishly casual St. Barth look, shop several small malls around the towns St. Jean and Lorient.

More than 80 restaurants offer a wide variety of options—most are costly, but the food, service and wine are superb. Some serve a comparatively reasonable lunch plat du jour and/or a prix fixe dinner special. Check out the local Menu magazines as well as the web. The Wall House, high above the harbor, serves imaginative bistro fare; Eddy’s, in a tropical jungle, features Creole and Asian food; L’Isoletta, offspring of top-rated Italian classic L’Isola, serves superb pizza; and then there’s the yachties’ favorite hangout, Le Select, the self-serve alfresco beer and burger snack bar.

Touring the island is easiest in a rental car—the roads are steep and narrow with switchbacks and hairpin turns but are well maintained and clearly marked. Taxis are readily available, but expect sticker shock and fees that tend to fluctuate.

Active sports abound. Check in with the Saint Barth Yacht Club (stbarthyachtclub.com) to rent an Opti or Laser on Public Beach, or consider wind surfing, scuba diving, snorkeling, surfing, kite surfing, deep sea fishing, or the yellow submarine for a close-up of the coral reefs. Scuba divers and snorkelers should head to the islet Pain de Sucre out of Gustavia Harbor, or take your boat to Columbier Beach at the island’s northern tip and drop anchor near the St. Barth’s Marine Park. Once owned by the Rockefellers, this gorgeous beach is hard to get to by land but easy in a dinghy.

Scattered through the calendar are a surprising number of major events—the West Indies Regatta, Christmas market, New Year’s fireworks, Classical and Jazz music festival, Carnivale, Caribbean Film Fest, a Music and Food show, and many art displays throughout the year.

Whether you sail your own cat, charter a monohull or arrive on a 150-foot yacht, St. Barthelemy will draw you in and insist you stay, so plan on a few lay days. Yes, it is the most expensive port in the Lesser Antilles, but with some judicious choices, the St. Barth experience can be yours for a little less than over the top.

By Beth Adams-Smith, Southern Boating September 2014

Capella Marina at Marigot Bay, Saint Lucia

Hospitality is the primary goal of the Capella Marina at Marigot Bay with dedicated staff on hand around the clock. As you enter, a private escort service and dockhand team will guide you to one of the marinas 40 slips—dedicated spaces for megayachts are available.

Upon docking, a personal liaison will assist with customs check-in procedures. Cruisers are greeted with a bouquet of indigenous flowers and a bottle of complimentary rum from the dock manager and the dockhand team. A Capella Marina concierge is appointed to meet requests and arrange vacation activities.

The full-service marina features dry cleaning, room service delivery, housekeeping, private chef services, and on-board spa treatments. Complimentary food and beverages are provided at the Capella Living Room. Close-circuit surveillance ensures guests and property are safe and secure throughout the stay.

The Resort houses 124 rooms including 56 two- or three-bedroom suites with spacious balconies and optional Jacuzzis. Shoppers can scout nearby retail stores and jewelers, while epicures will find good eats at the gourmet food, wine and beverage store. Enjoy special events such as farmers markets, cooking demonstrations, live concerts, fashion shows, and more. Upon departure, the Capella Resort & Marina at Marigot Bay sends you with a farewell gift from the Dock Manager. The resort’s “Five-Star Services Program” treats every visitor to the island of Saint Lucia like family.

Features:

• 165-foot-wide buoyed entrance
• 40 slips accommodate vessels 30-250 ft. LOA
• Max. draft 16 ft.
• Max. beam 44 ft.
• Full access to resort amenities and services as marina guests
• Laundry, ships store, upscale shops, gourmet supermarket, bank, restaurant
• Full services

Information:

Capella Marigot Resort & Marina
PO Box MG 7227
Marigot, St. Lucia, West Indies
Phone: (758) 458-5300
Reservations:(321) 821-0798
res.marigotbay@capellahotels.com
contact.marigotbay@capellahotels.com
capellamarigotbay.com

By Daniel Wagner, Southern Exposure

Caribbean’s Kick-Off

Expect fun and rum at the 46th Budget Marine Spice Island Billfish Tournament hosted out of the Grenada Yacht Club in St. George’s. Fifty or more boats carrying over 200 anglers from throughout the Caribbean, U.S. mainland and Europe will vie for trophy billfish January 20-24. Last year, 77 blue marlin and sailfish were caught and released. “Teams are drawn to Grenada by the camaraderie and the party atmosphere at the marina and the well-organized event, but mostly they come for the great fishing our island has to offer,” says former organizer and longtime participant, Captain Gary Clifford, who owns and operates True Blue Sportfishing charters. Prizes and trophies are awarded to the anglers and boats with the most points, scored by their number of billfish releases.

For supportive family and friends, there are a couple of great spectator opportunities. Watch the boats on parade at 6:45AM January 21st from the Carenage, then head up to Fort George for the best view of the 7:30AM start when the cannon fires signaling the start of the competition. The second best spectating is watching the fleet come back to the marina at the end of a successful fishing day. Nightly parties, as well as the lay day festivities on January 23rd, feature plenty of Grenadian rum from its Clarke’s Court, Westerhall Estate and River Antoine distilleries. All three of these rum-producing plants offer guided tours with liberal samples—a must-do when the fishing is done. sibtgrenada.com

 

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Mount Gay Round Barbados Race Series 

The rum theme continues in Barbados for the Mount Gay Round Barbados Race Series. The headline event in this January 14-24 series hosted out of the Barbados Cruising Club in Carlisle Bay is the 60-mile circumnavigation of Barbados on January 21st. Teams from throughout the world will seek to set or break one of the 14 currently established records in a variety of classes in order to win their skipper’s weight in Mount Gay Extra Old Rum. “All yachts entered in the Round Barbados Race will be fitted with trackers so you can watch their progress from any computer or handheld device,” says organizer, Alene Krimholtz. “If you’re on-island, good spots for viewing include the Barbados Cruising Club for all starts and finishes, the Beach House Restaurant in St. James for west coast progress, the North Point of Barbados as the fleet comes together, the Crane Hotel Barbados for east coast progress, and Tapas Restaurant on the South Coast as the boats draw near the finish.” Daily events and after-race parties are open to all, and the Mount Gay Rum will certainly be flowing. mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com

By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating January 2015

Caribbean Carnivals

Parades and parties kick off the celebrations held to commemorate St. Lucia Day on December 13th. Named for the patron saint of light, St. Lucy, this holiday was founded on the commonly held belief that Christopher Columbus discovered St. Lucia on this day in 1502. This idea has been soundly disproven, but it hasn’t stopped the Carnival-like atmosphere that lasts right up until Christmas. The don’t-miss highlight is the Festival of Lights. Days before, residents throughout the island decorate their homes with homemade lanterns. The real spectacle begins when the sun sets on December 13th with a parade of people carrying beautiful lanterns around Derek Walcott Square in the capitol city of Castries. Other festivities include choir competitions, street parties with live bands, fish fries and food sales, and local sporting competitions such as a game of cricket. stlucianow.com

St. Kitts & Nevis Carnival

National pride combines with Christmas spirit to make the St. Kitts & Nevis Carnival or “Sugar Mas” unlike many other islands’ carnival celebrations throughout the year. Calypso competitions begin mid-December and include beauty pageants and the naming of the Carnival Queen—complete with the crowing of the Calypso Monarch. The real entertainment heats up December 26th with J’ouvert, a street jam where revelers follow their favorite bands whose instruments and sound systems are located on the backs of trucks. The Grand Carnival Parade, a massive show of costumed dancers, stilt-walking Mocko Jumbies, steel pan bands, and decorated floats, takes place in this dual-island nation’s capital of Basseterre on New Year’s Day. stkittsneviscarnival.com

Carriacou Parang Festival

Local and visiting islands’ string bands play a blend of Christmas carols with traditional folk tunes at the annual music festival held on Grenada’s offshore island of Carriacou December 19-21. The Festival started in 1977 as a way to keep alive the age-old custom of bands walking house to house to serenade friends and family. Today, eight-piece percussion bands carry on this tradition and compete for prizes. The big contest, held on the tennis court in Hillsborough, entails performing one Christmas carol and one piece of the band’s own choosing, which may be in keeping with the seasonal theme or a calypso-like satire on island life and politics. It’s easy to make it a day trip to visit Carriacou for the Parang Festival. Ferries depart several times daily from St. George’s for the 90-minute trip to Hillsborough, and a flight on a commuter air carrier takes only 15 minutes. carriacouparangfestival.com

By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating December 2014

Belize, It’s UnBelizeable!

It’s UnBelizeable!

There is a lengthy list of sensible reasons why Belize belongs on the must-do list when it comes to Caribbean cruising. First, a two-hour flight from the United States to Belize City makes it easy to travel to, English is the official language and it is one of the most affordable destinations in the Caribbean—the U.S. dollar is widely accepted and is worth twice the Belizean dollar. Second (or fourth, depending on how you count), electricity is the same as in the U.S., and you can drink the water. But most of all, besides all of the sensible reasons to visit Belize, the country’s overwhelming draw is the natural beauty of its islands, waters and rainforests, along with its intriguing Mayan culture, all of which are wrapped up in an intoxicatingly relaxed way of life.

Belize is the pioneer of sustainable tourism and, proud of its abundance of natural wonders, it pampers them and shows them off well. Boating on ancient Mayan waterways brings one close to water birds and crocodiles. The country is chock-full of limestone caves and sinkholes to hike and swim in, some of which even contain Mayan treasures. Belize has a baboon sanctuary and one of the only jaguar preserves in the world. Howler monkeys and toucans peer out of its verdant rainforests. With hundreds of offshore islands, beachcombing, diving, snorkeling, and boating are superb.

The more than 321,000 people of Belize come from eight distinct cultures: Maya, Mestizo, Creole, Garifuna, East Indian, German Mennonite, Arab, and Chinese, all of which add their distinct seasoning to the dish of Belizean music, cuisine and art. The Mayan culture is ever present. From 250-900 A.D. the mathematically brilliant Mayan civilization flourished in Central America leaving 1,400 archeological sites in Belize. Day tripping to sites before or after cruising or island hopping is easy since Belize is only 185 miles long and 75 miles wide. Hotels and charter companies are happy to arrange excursions.

Boat travel up winding rivers to both Altun Ha and Lamanai in Northern Belize is a treat. Altun Ha—Mayan for “water of the rock”—was a small but important ceremonial and trading center located 31 miles north of Belize City where archeologists found the largest Mayan carved jade object, a jade head. Lamanai (“submerged crocodile” in Mayan) appears out of the rainforest after a 26-mile boat ride on the New River. It is famous for a stela of a Mayan ruler wearing a crocodile headdress. The Mayans occupied this site for 3,000 years.

Landlubbers are content to stay ashore, but mariners come to life on the water and Belize has plenty of that. Along its entire Caribbean coastline lays the longest unbroken barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere—a UNESCO World Heritage site. More than 100 species of coral and 500 species of fish call the area home. Eight protected marine reserves, including the famous Blue Hole—a 1,000-foot-wide sinkhole in the sea—provide SCUBA divers and snorkelers wondrous guided experiences year round.

Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye are the largest and most populated islands of Belize. Ambergris Caye, with the town of San Pedro, is a little livelier than Caye Caulker where the motto “Go Slow” says it all. Both places have access to the mainland with $20 round-trip water taxis (45 minutes) and $138 round-trip Tropic Air flights (15 minutes). The charter company TMM is based in San Pedro, Ambergris Caye. Both islands are good places to provision, gas up and top off the water tank. Required diving and snorkel guides are available on both islands for visits to several nearby marine reserves.

Ragamuffin Tours on Caye Caulker offers the unique experience of sailing on an authentic Belizean sailing sloop all day, visiting Hol Chan Reserve, Coral Gardens and Shark Ray Alley sites for only $70. Included meals could be stewed chicken, coconut rice or freshly-made shrimp ceviche washed down with rum punch mixed in an oversized water jug. Dolphins play with the sloop’s bow wave en route to snorkel adventures with nurse sharks, stingrays, sea turtles, blue tangs, moray eels, goatfish, trunk fish, blueheads, butterfly fish, and the list goes on. Ragamuffin insists that all footwear be left at the dock before departure. By the time the pile of flip-flops are returned, life is seen in a better light!

All beaches on Ambergris and Caulker are public and plenty of fish swim just offshore. A favorite place for mingling with people and fish on Caye Caulker is at The Split. This small channel separates the island and it is here that people hang out all day at the Lazy Lizard Bar. Snorkel in the morning with starfish, eat curried lobster, coconut rice and beans with a Belikin Beer for lunch, and then return to the water where a float is the perfect means of transportation.

Life becomes more peaceful as one travels down the coast to the Placencia Peninsula in southern Belize. Uninhabited islands provide dot-to-dot sailing in uncluttered water. From April to June people come to swim with whale sharks, and drums beat during the celebration of the Garifuna in November, but most of the time tranquility is the main attraction.

Chartering a catamaran for a week in Belize is possible through Sunsail and The Moorings based in Placencia, TMM Yacht Charters on Ambergris Caye, and other local charter companies. Whether you bareboat or hire a captain and crew, charter is a great way to experience Belizean waters. Just keep in mind that charter companies insist that bareboaters stay within the barrier reef unless accompanied by a local captain. Navigational aids are sparse and navigation by sight with a bow watch is highly recommended due to “skinny” waters and coral reefs. The place is remote beyond the cayes and communication is sketchy at times on both cellphone and VHF. Gas, water, ice, and provisions should be conserved since replenishment is spotty. On the bright side, the barrier reef protects sailors from ocean swells, and trade winds almost guarantee 20 knots of wind every day. The Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast by Freya Rauscher (3rd Edition) is the guide of choice and can be ordered from info@windmillhillbooks.com. Most companies provide copies onboard but TMM and The Moorings give a copy to charters.

Perhaps “Mother Nature’s Best Kept Secret” is less of a secret now. Once this country’s natural playground is experienced it could be said, “It’s unBelizeable!”

Nancy E. Spraker, Southern Boating September 2013

Race, Sail and Party in the B.V.I.

Relaxation, team racing and partying is the best way to describe the Moorings Interline Regatta, set for October 14-23 in the British Virgin Islands. In 1983, the regatta began as a way to make use of the territory’s large charter fleet during the slow fall season by staging a battle on the seas among airline personnel, and continues today as a laidback weeklong yachting competition. True to its roots, the regatta features island-to-island sailing aboard sleek yachts such as Moorings 41- and 43-foot monohulls. Each night, spectators and racers alike celebrate at legendary parties that coincide with the regatta at some of the hottest night spots in the B.V.I.

The Moorings Interline Regatta is set for October 14-23 in the British Virgin Islands. Photo: The Moorings

This year includes a sail to Peter Island that ends at the Oceans 7 Beach Club with a Greek Mythology Theme Party; a race up to the Bitter End Yacht Club in North Sound, Virgin Gorda followed by a Viking Theme Party; and a cruise to Norman Island complete with a Pirates Party Haaard Theme. Best of all, the regatta isn’t open to just members of the airline industry but also to their family and friends. In fact, each team is only required to have one flight crewmember aboard. What’s more, even non-boating visitors to the B.V.I. can join in as spectators to this exciting racing event.

Villa vacation on yacht-friendly Anguilla
No opera, theater or upscale shopping malls are found on the British overseas territory of Anguilla located eight miles north of St. Martin-St. Maarten. Yet this sandbar-flat 35-square-mile Caribbean gem offers everything adventure-loving family groups could ever desire—including beachfront villa accommodations that feel like home. “The clear blue and calm Anguillan waters are idea for yachting,” says Neil Freeman, general manager of Beaches Edge Villas, a duo of 5-bedroom oceanfront sister villas that overlook Pelican Bay. Garfield’s Sea Tours rents Sunseeker Seahawk 48s that are ideal for day trips to Anguilla’s three nearly uninhabited offshore islands: Prickly Pear, Sandy and Dog Islands. Prickly Pear and Sandy have restaurants that serve lunch and are surrounded by superb snorkeling sites. Dog Island is more remote and inhabited only by birds and lizards, but it boasts two great scuba diving sites. Garfield’s also charters a 31-foot Bertram for sportfishing. Or, go for a day sail aboard Capt. Rollin Ruan’s 35-foot Edel catamaran Chocolat and enjoy a barbecued chicken lunch with all the fixings. “Sailboat racing is the national pastime of Anguilla. Locally made wooden boats with as many as 20 in the crew race with gusto around the island for bragging rights,” Freeman says. beachesedge.com 

By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating October 2014

Grenada Celebrates Competition, Carnival and Chocolate

August is an awesome month to charter a yacht out of the southern Caribbean island of Grenada. “The clarity and calmness of the seas makes for great snorkeling,” says Jacqui Pascall, who with husband James manages Horizon Yacht Charters’ base at the True Blue Bay Resort & Marina. The company offers bareboat, crewed and learn-to-sail charters aboard a fleet of Bavaria monohulls and Fountaine Pajot and Lagoon multihull yachts. “There are fewer crowds during the summer so you can always find a lovely anchorage to overnight. Plus, the reduced low-season charter rates make it easier for families to enjoy the trip.” It’s possible to visit Grenada’s offshore island of Carriacou to the north as well as islands in the Grenadines such as Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, Mayreau, and the Tobago Cays during a one-week sail. What’s more, there are several ways to partake in island cultural events this month.

The Carriacou Regatta Festival kicks off on August 1st with a single-handed race around the island in traditional wooden boats. The sailing competition continues through August 4th when prizes will be given on the beach in the main town of Hillsborough. Several shore-based activities happen at the same time such as beach games by day and shows at night. Grenada’s SpiceMas Festival takes place August 7-12. This annually anticipated event features a week of food, music and traditional arts. The Pretty Mas Pageant on August 1st is a feast for the eyes and ears with Calypso, Soca and steel pan bands and dancing troupes of costumed revelers on parade. There are a number of excellent viewing spots and quaint cafes throughout the historic town of St. George. Chocoholics will enjoy the Grenada Chocolate Fest at the True Blue Bay Resort August 18-24. This chocolate extravaganza includes a tour of a working cocoa estate, chef competitions and samples of decadent chocolate treats.

World-class sport fishermen and fishing aficionados from around the globe are invited to the 2nd Annual MarlinFest. Set for August 5-11, the event is gathering a groundswell of interest by turning the U.S. Virgin Islands/Atlantic Blue Marlin Tournament in St. Thomas into a spectator sport. “It’s a place to gawk at some of the finest fishing machines in the world docked one slip next to the other at the American Yacht Harbor Marina, a place to personally meet owners and builders, and a place to learn angling techniques from the crews whose photos you see in magazines,” explains tournament and fest organizer Jimmy Loveland. Day trips to the B.V.I., sunset parties, a center console competition, arts and crafts festival, and carnival-like Jump Up complete with a chowder competition are all part of the fun. abmt.vi/pages/mfweb.htm

By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating August 2014

Virgin Islands Maritime Museum adds two Priceless Artifacts

A compass manufactured in 1928 by Boston’s E.S. Ritchie & Son and an oil painting of the 1903 Tortola-built Lady Constance are the latest additions to the Virgin Islands Maritime Museum. The museum, located on the second floor of the Centre for Applied Marine Studies at the H. Lavity Stoutt Community College in Paraquita Bay, Tortola, B.V.I., first opened its doors in 2005 with a visit from Princess Anne. “The compass is a rare find,” says curator Geoffrey Brooks. “It is made of brass and suspended in a wooden box. It was used by many mariners in East End, Tortola.” The 39-foot cutter rigged sloop Lady Constance belonged to the government and was used as a revenue cutter to intercept smugglers until she sank off St. Thomas in 1921. The museum is dedicated to preserving the rich maritime heritage of this British overseas territory, where traditional wooden sloops were built for over 300 years and used for everything from trading to carrying passengers to the doctor, school and work. Boat models, pieces from the frames of old sloops, antiquated boat-building tools, and old photographs of sloops, shipwrights and boat launchings are displayed in the museum as well as an actual 20-foot old-style fishing boat. Hours are 9AM to 6PM Monday through Friday, with special weekend visits available by request. Admission is free, but donations are welcome. Call (284) 494-4994 or (284) 852-7169, or email info@hlscc.edu.vg.

Fly in to fish, sail and cruise
Island-hopping by air just got easier. Seaborne Airlines took flight two decades ago providing seaplane service between the U.S. Virgin Islands of St. Thomas and St. Croix, and now offers over 2,600 monthly departures to 18 airports in the Caribbean on a mixed fleet of turboprops and seaplanes from its hub at Puerto Rico’s Luis Munoz Marin International Airport in San Juan. This is big news for travelers in the wake of American Eagle closing its San Juan base in 2013 as part of the Chapter 11 restructuring of its parent company, American Airlines. Now, once arriving in San Juan via direct daily flights from the U.S. and Europe, yachtsmen can easily take flights to islands from the Dominican Republic to Martinique, and destinations such as the U.S. and British Virgin Islands, St. Maarten, St. Kitts, Nevis, and Dominica. Seaborne Airlines carries the American Airlines code in select San Juan markets and currently has interline agreements with Jet Blue and Delta, although this will likely expand to additional international carriers in the future. “Whether you’re flying in for a sports fishing tournament, to race in a regatta, charter a yacht to cruise, or just visit the islands, Seaborne Airlines can make travel to your destination easier,” says Seaborne Airlines CEO David Ziemer. seaborneairlines.com

By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating July 2014

Aruba

Aruba shows off it’s many (beautiful) sides

The more one cruises in the islands, the more apparent it becomes that each individual island—like individual people—has its own distinct personality. Some are quiet, fiercely independent and guard their shores with menacing appearances, while others are easily approached and carefree, with a warm, welcoming and happy nature. I found Aruba’s tourism tagline of “One happy island” to be true, but I discovered the island has many other personas as well, which makes getting to know it all the more beguiling.

Scarcely 15 miles off the northern coast of Venezuela, the 19.6-mile-long, 6-mile-wide island of Aruba is the western-most of the Lesser Antilles’ ABC islands—Aruba, Bonaire, and Curacao. For the casual or infrequent cruiser, its remote off-the-beaten-path location disqualifies it as a cruising destination. However, for cruisers comfortable with venturing farther—as well as for avid sportfishermen and yachts heading to or from the Panama Canal or even Colombia, which is actively promoting itself as a cruising destination—Aruba is a convenient and worthwhile stopover out of the hurricane belt.

Warm Weather, Warmer People

Its climate alone—the average temperature is 82 degrees year-round—entices a longer or repeat visit, but it also has the largest desalination system in the Caribbean for pure, clean water right from the tap that’s low on minerals and chlorination ensuring a spotless finish on yachts.

Clearing customs in Aruba is different from what cruisers may be used to on other islands. Upon arrival, all vessels must proceed immediately to the official port of entry at Barcadera Harbor located three miles south of Port Oranjestad (Aruba’s capital city). According to Renaissance Marina Manager Sander Vellinga, Aruba’s clearance process is well-organized and efficient, and the procedures are explained and documents are available at  Renaissance Marina.

Renaissance Marina is in the heart of downtown Oranjestad and has 50 slips with Med-style mooring up to 200′ LOA. The average size of visiting yachts is 90-140′ in the marina, which has an entrance depth of 12.5′ with a 1.5-foot tide change. Since the marina is in the middle of downtown away from the beaches further north, the resort owns two private beaches accessed by a free courtesy shuttle (no personal tenders are allowed on their private beaches). Marina guests have full access to all hotel facilities as well, which comes in handy when relatives invite themselves for a visit. Renaissance Marina is an in-water marina only, but haul-out and marine services are available at Varadero Marina located close to the airport.

Cruising Paradise?

Conveniently for cruisers, the six-month cruising permit is put on hold once their boat is hauled-out and moved past a specific gate at Varadero Marina. “Aruba has a good infrastructure and does not charge duty on parts, so it’s fairly cost-effective to have work done here,” says Vellinga, who has also published an Aruba cruising guide. For those who prefer being on the hook as opposed to marinas, the bay known as Surfside is a popular and calm anchorage with little to no coral and has a nice beach area directly in front of the Aruba Tourism Authority office.

Activity Abound

Aruba offers a plethora of activity options. For the health conscious or fitness buffs, get your yoga and pilates fix at Manchebo Resort and Spa, an intimate 72-room boutique beach resort ideally situated on Eagle Beach. I was concerned my first yoga experience would be akin to the very uncomfortable yoga scene from the movie Couples Retreat. But certified yoga teacher Anouscka van der Kuyp made everyone feel relaxed, comfortable and empowered to try new poses.

Within steps of the beach, the multiuse, wall-less yoga “room” is a covered open-air space with a hardwood floor and stage in front. It also serves well for weddings, vow renewals, and other celebrations. After yoga, enjoy one of Manchebo’s healthy smoothies with your breakfast. Then get those achy muscles massaged at their Spa del Sol, a Balinese-themed spa with massage huts that overlook the beach and ocean.

Watersports run the gamut on Aruba. Snorkel the reefs, scuba dive the many shipwrecks, or take a paddleboarding lesson from former Floridian Dennis Martinez, owner of Aruba Surf and Paddle School. But if you’re an avid kitesurfer or have longed to try it, the long stretch of Palm Beach is ideally suited with smooth, protected waters, a constant breeze, and a sandy bottom, all perfect elements for kiteboarding and windsurfing, whether you’re a beginner or expert.

Palm Beach—along with the other beaches on the south and more civilized side of the island—is where you’ll find hotels, resorts, casinos, restaurants, and shopping. But while the south shore is where the action is, you’ll never truly know Aruba until you’re introduced to its more isolated yet intriguing side, the north coast, with its desolate beauty that receives and repels visitors simultaneously. Bicyclists frequently explore the north coast provided they have the stamina and sufficient drinking water.

Exploration Nation

But for those who prefer horsepower, both the four-legged and four-wheeled versions are available for guided tours. An early morning horseback ride through Arikok National Park treats riders to spectacular views of the rocky, cacti-peppered landscape. Take a dip in the natural pool while the horses patiently wait. Four-wheel drive Yamaha UTVs, however, enable you to see more of the coast, albeit at a higher rate of speed. The trail is dusty, so glasses or goggles and a bandana are helpful.

Stretch your legs at the ruins of the Bushiribana Gold Mill, where visitors participate in the tradition of stacking rocks along the shoreline as a memorial to a loved one, a prayer or blessing, or a wish. Heading north on the well-traveled trail, remnants of makeshift cabins and colorful dwellings scatter the shoreline and provide shelter from the elements as well as complete isolation. The California Lighthouse, which marks the northernmost tip of the island, is named after the vessel California that shipwrecked on the coast nearby.

On Aruba, locals frequent the same places as tourists. It’s not uncommon to eat in the same restaurant a s island residents, shop in the same grocery store, or go to the same church. At St. Ann Parish in the town of Noord, visiting tourists (and journalists) join residents at the 11AM Mass spoken in English. With a common purpose, they blend harmoniously in a great melting pot of ages, culture and skin color. As the scripture is read and hymns are sung, yet another aspect of Aruba’s distinctive personality is revealed on this multi-faceted island.

By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating October 2013

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