Monthly Regional Reports for the Caribbean are posted the first week of each month so you’ll find the best of the Caribbean! The Caribbean islands offer an array of experiences for boaters. From unique cultures in St. Maarten to world-renowned diving in Belize, the region has it all. Southern Boating’s articles provide helpful insight into traveling the Caribbean by boat—including features on regions such as: Puerto Rico, Antigua, Belize, Grenada, St. Maarten, the British Virgin Islands, Aruba, St. Lucia and more. Monthly updates include news about events, fishing tournaments, and sailing regattas. Detailed cruising guides can be found in thoroughly researched articles by Southern Boating experts.
Three of the Caribbean’s biggest regattas take place this month: The St. Maarten Heineken Regatta, St. Thomas International Regatta and BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival. Sailors and sailing enthusiasts alike come from around the world to race and watch. It’s an excellent opportunity to join in the fun on sea and shore. New this year, all three regattas offer added racing before their main three-day events.
St. Maarten kicks off with its Gill Commodores Cup March 3-6. Like last year, all classes—not just the racers—are welcome to enter. The St. Thomas International Regatta (March 24-27) launches its first-ever Round the Rocks Race on. The course is a beautiful circumnavigation of the adjacent U.S.V.I. of St. John. The B.V.I.’s Sailing Festival (March 28th-April 3rd), as part of its 45th anniversary celebration, offers two days of warm-up racing.
What make these regattas so great, too, are the calibre of talent and the spectacular yachts. For example, Dutch-based Team Brunel aboard their 65-foot Volvo Ocean Racer is entered in St. Maarten. This sleek, canting keel yacht will be on the dock at the St. Maarten Yacht Club, so it’s easy to get a close up and personal look at this amazing racing machine. An entire class of Gunboats will race in St. Thomas, including the U.S.’s Phil Lotz and Robert Alexander on the GB 60s, Arethusa and Fault Tolerant, respectively, as well as Jason Carroll’s GB 62 Elvin. Over a dozen VX One teams from as far away as Australia will be racing in St. Thomas and in the B.V.I. as part of the inaugural two-leg VX One Caribbean Cup. Most exciting is that all three regattas offer a vibe that isn’t equalled anywhere else in the world and the chance to stand shoulder-to-shoulder with America’s Cup veterans, Olympic medallists and world champions with free-flowing rum in hand and toe-tapping to a pulsating Caribbean beat. No blue blazers or membership cards required. heinekenregatta.com, stthomasinternationalregatta.com, bvispringregatta.org
Charter by the stateroom in the B.V.I.
If you ever wanted to take a crewed yacht charter in the Caribbean but didn’t have the cash or crowd of family and friends for an entire boat, no worries. The Moorings makes it easy. Now, in the B.V.I. only, you can charter one of three staterooms aboard a Moorings 4600 or Moorings 4800 catamaran. Dates are pre-determined, while meals, beverages (including fully stocked bar), snacks, water sports, Wi-Fi, and housekeeping are included. Prices range from $3,800 to $6,500 for double occupancy, for seven days. “Sail Away Staterooms are still a highly personalized experience, with a professional captain and gourmet chef providing experiences and culinary delights that are designed to meet guests’ preferences,” says Carol Hansen, senior content manager for the Clearwater, Florida-headquartered The Moorings. Another unique advantage is the opportunity to meet new people and experience affordable island-hopping aboard a luxury yacht. moorings.com
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine March 2016
Altamer Resort, a collection of beachfront boutique villas on Anguilla’s Shoal Bay West is set to get a megayacht marina. New York-based real-estate development firm Time Equities, which acquired Altamer Resort in 2014 announced plans for an expansion of the resort including a megayacht marina complex, which will be the first marina resort built in Anguilla with the highest level of concierge services. The marina will also serve as an official port of entry to the island, with 30 percent of its berths designed to accept yachts stretching between 30 and 200 feet. The new facility is slated to include a 164-unit resort, in addition to duty-free retail shops and a restaurant promenade. Time Equities is partnering with Anaconda Holdings and Cross Island Development to bring its plans to fruition.
“For nearly a decade, Altamer Resort has offered the finest world-class hospitality experience on Anguilla, and we are certain that with the involvement of Jeff Boyd, Chairman of Anaconda LTD/Marine Management and Consulting, along with Cross Island Development, we will collectively enhance that reputation,” said Francis Greenburger, chairman and CEO of Time Equities, Inc. “Altamer Marina will rival some of the most renowned facilities in the region and will not only position Anguilla as a choice destination among the luxury yachting community, but will meet the rising yachting, shopping and dining demands of high net worth individuals.”
Anaconda LTD and Cross Island Development have strong backgrounds in designing and building luxury yachting destinations such as The Yacht Club at Isle de Sol and Port de Plaisance in St. Maarten, in addition to Yacht Haven Grand in St. Thomas.
“We welcome this marina development project as an important enhancement of Anguilla’s tourism product. It is just what the doctor ordered,” said Anguilla Chief Minister Victor F. Banks. villaaltamer.com
Classic yachts and wannabes rule the seas at the 38th Sweethearts of the Caribbean and 34th Classic Yacht Regatta. This low-key event hosted by the West End Yacht Club (WEYC) in the B.V.I. on Valentine’s Day Weekend February 12-14 is part time warp, part modern-day regatta, and a whole lot of fun. There aren’t many regattas where classes include 100-plus-year-old yachts, but this one does. A few of the famous fractional-rig, wood-built Tortola sloops always take part—the 22-foot Intrepid, 25-foot Youth Instructor, and, we hope, the newly restored 29-foot Esmie. These vessels once served as the only link between the B.V.I. and its neighbors and now compete in this regatta with a combination of adults and junior sailors as a neat tie between past and present. Although the event was originally conceived as a schooner race, dwindling participation led organizers to offer registration to “classic plastics” (yachts with fiberglass hulls more than 30 years old) and even newer monohulls in an Open class. Enjoyable regatta events happen on both sea and land. There’s a single-handed pursuit-style race to Jost Van Dyke the first day. The second day is a couples’ and crew fleet race around the natural markers of Peter, Pelican and Flanagan islands followed by a big, prize-giving party sponsored by Mount Gay Rum at the Fish n’ Lime restaurant in Soper’s Hole. “We expect around 40 entrants,” says WEYC Commodore Louis Schwartz. “The camaraderie generated through the decades by those who gather and sail has been immense. I know sailors who met at Sweethearts 25 years ago, married and now attend with their kids.” facebook.com/groups/weycbvi/
SweetheartsTim Wrigh. Photo: credit Tim Wright/photoaction.com
Schooner Rainmaker making way in a past Sweethearts regatta. Photo: Tim Wright/photoaction.com
Wed then weigh anchor in Antigua and Barbuda. The twin-island country of Antigua and Barbuda is such a popular wedding destination that Horizon Yacht Charters offers a five-day itinerary. It’s the perfect venue for those who want to say their “I do’s” ashore with family and friends and then jump ship to their own private yacht for a honeymoon charter. “February is a great time to charter as it’s high season, meaning there is an abundance of restaurants, bars and shops open allowing you to anchor off in a bay and dinghy across to enjoy a romantic dinner or to go and enjoy the nightlife,” says Megan Grant, the customer services representative who authored the five-day itinerary that starts from the company’s Jolly Harbour Marina base and includes several out-of-the-way stops. “Even though it’s high season, the beauty of chartering a boat in Antigua is that you can still find yourself alone in a secluded bay. One of the most spectacular is Pinching Bay just north of Five Islands Village and accessible only by boat. Imagine anchoring here and enjoying the peaceful vibes whilst barbecuing off the stern for lunch.” Traveling to Antigua and Barbuda just got a lot easier to love with the nearly $100 million renovation to the V.C. Byrd Airport completed last summer. The state-of-the-art facility features 15 self-service check-in kiosks, 14 departure gates, 4 jet bridges, a mini food court, and more than a dozen retail stores. horizonyachtcharters.com
According to a number of scientific studies, the brain of a person who’s born blind or deaf has the ability to rewire itself to heighten other senses such as taste, touch or smell. This phenomenon is referred to as cross-modal neuroplasticity and theorizes that because the part of the brain designated to interpret the sense does not function, it transforms that part of the neural system for other purposes. Some have even compared it to a sort of “superpower” for the blind and deaf.
About 20 years ago I lost my sense of smell (aka “smell-blind,” “nose blind” or anosmia). There are some scents I miss (flowers, wine), while there are others I’m glad are gone (no need to clarify). But it wasn’t until the 2018 North Sea Jazz Festival on Curaçao that I noticed some of my other senses had become stronger, or, perhaps, more refined, and I was astonished when another “sense” was completely reawakened.
ABC Islands
In the Caribbean’s Leeward Antilles, Caribbean cruisers can comfortably ride out the hurricane season on Curaçao (pronounced cure-ah-souw). The largest of the ABC islands, Curaçao is 40 miles from the coast of Venezuela and flanked by n Aruba to the west and Bonaire to the east. The self-governing islands were formerly part of Netherlands Antilles (the Dutch arrived in 1634), and the most frequent visitors come from Holland, other parts of Europe and South America. The primary languages spoken are Dutch and Papiamento, a Creole language that combines Dutch, French, Spanish, Portuguese, Arawak, and African languages. English is also widely spoken, but it is always appreciated when visitors attempt to use at least a few phrases in the local language.
“Music can change the world because it can change people.” -Bono
Since all three of the ABC islands were formerly part of Netherlands Antilles, their characteristic architecture is similar. Tropical-hued buildings with steep, red-tiled roofs line the harbor and colonial Old Town streets of Curaçao’s capital, Willemstad. Every souvenir shop displays a variety of products hand-painted with the artist-worthy street scene, and you’ll discover it’s impossible not to photograph it for yourself from every possible angle. The buildings’ colors always look fresh and bright because they’re repainted about every six months due to the salt air that denigrates the paint. A few blocks in from the harbor, creative paintings adorn building walls, tree branches are carved into figures and in a park, an upside-down boat is decorated to look like a huge, fancy fish. In other cities or areas of the world, all these colorful stimuli would seem like discarded junk, but somehow, here on Curaçao, the vibrant colors and textures kindle and inspire future art projects.
Historical Sites
No cruiser should leave Curaçao without a visit to the Aloe Vera Plantation since most of the products sold in the U.S. actually contain very little aloe in them. The aloe plant has its origins in Egypt, and it’s generally thought that Christopher Columbus introduced the plant to the Caribbean and New World. Aloe plants need very little water and only 5 acres of the 10-acre farm are planted, yet there are more than 100,000 plants. Each plant must grow for at least two years after which stalks are harvested twice yearly. I sampled a piece of the gelatinous raw aloe—it’s cool and chewy but has no taste—and then applied the raw liquid to my skin, which immediately felt more hydrated.
Food & Drink
Cruising in the Caribbean offers a myriad of opportunities to sample locally grown food and drink. A guided tour of the Genuine Curaçao Liqueur Distillery is not only fascinating but also offers free samples at the end. The liqueur is made from sun-dried orange peels and distilled in the original copper still that’s been used since 1896. The finished liqueur is a clear liquid, and then color and flavors are added. Imitation products have attempted to replicate the Genuine Curaçao Liqueur (certified kosher) made by N.V. Senior & Co., but the original comes in a patented glass bottle with bumps on it—like an orange peel.
Music Everywhere
For me, the three nights of the Curaçao North Sea Jazz Festival revealed the most noticeable difference in my senses. In spite of the event’s name, since its first edition in 2010, the artists featured are from many music genres—hip-hop, rap, latin, rock, reggae, dance, disco, you name it. I was initially most excited to hear KC and The Sunshine Band, but I soon tired of the crowd and heat in front of the outdoor stage.
I wandered to another venue in one of the air-conditioned tents where there were many open seats. On the stage were three backup singers, several musicians and 90-year-old Burt Bacharach sitting on a bench at a grand piano singing songs I remembered from childhood: Alfie, I Say a Little Prayer, The Look of Love, What the World Needs Now. Burt’s frail shoulders were hunched over the keyboard and his voice a little wobbly at times, but the notes and lyrics recalled memories of hearing the songs in the living room of my childhood home, where we’d play vinyl albums on the console stereo and listen together as a family.
The songs were written during a much different time in our world, but I feel the lyrics are still relevant today. Five decades have passed since many of them were first written, and a litany of experiences, most of which are good, are mixed in with those decades. In those moments of listening to Burt in a tent on Curaçao, I’m acutely aware that my sense of time passed has never been stronger.
To plan your 2019 cruising calendar around live music events, go to southernboating.com/music-festsfor a list of 2019 music festivals accessible by boat.
Curaçao Yacht Club
108 boats less than 80′
Closest to the town of all marinas, just a 10-minute drive from Willemstad
+5999.767.4627 or 767.3038 curacaoyachtclub.com
Kima Kalki Marina
Small, private marina in Jan Thiel area on the eastern side of Curaçao
Fits about 40 boats up to 80′
+5999.767.3014 kimakalkimarina.com
Wind, warmth and wondrous line-of-sight navigation make the Caribbean one of the most spectacular places in the world to sail. As a result, nearly every island hosts a regatta. Each is held at a different time of year and boasts a different flavor and ways for competitors and spectators alike to have fun. For all those who “gotta regatta,” there’re plenty of Caribbean events to keep you busy all year long! Here’s a sampling of sailing events for 2016.
Trade the snow for sun and sea
January through April are the busiest months with 18 major regattas planned on more than a dozen islands. The Caribbean Sailing Association (CSA) has worked with organizers to create a calendar through 2019 so that the dates don’t overlap in order to allow international teams to plan ahead. caribbean-sailing.com
“We’ve added three new events and very much want to invite all boats to take part,” says Alison Sly-Adams, CSA vice president from Antigua. The Antigua 360 is a one-day, round-the-island race on February 20th that helps crews train for the RORC Caribbean 600, which starts two days later. The Round the Island Race takes place on March 24th, the day before the St. Thomas International Regatta. Then the St. Barths to Antigua Race following Les Voiles de St. Barths departs on either April 18th or 19th and arrives in time for Antigua Sailing Week.
Sailors compete in the international Optimist Regatta. Photo: Dean Barnes
Sailors compete in the international Optimist Regatta. Photo: Dean Barnes
J24 and Surprise class on the water during Mango Bowl Regatta. Photo: Dee Lundy-Charles
J24 and Surprise class on the water during Mango Bowl Regatta. Photo: Dee Lundy-Charles
J24 and Surprise class on the water during Mango Bowl Regatta. Photo: Dee Lundy-Charles
Sailors compete in the international Optimist Regatta. Photo: Dean Barnes
New York Gosia Rojek’s Better Than…, a Swan 42, speeds downwind into Charlotte Amalie harbor in day one racinge in the St. Thomas International Regatta.
Kids follow Mocko Jumbies on the beach at Nanny Cay Marina before prize-giving at the BVI Spring Regatta. Photo: Todd van Sickle
Summer fun
The pace of regattas slows down in the summer and takes on a more laid-back, family-oriented atmosphere. For example, there are two big youth events. First is the International Optimist Regatta in St. Thomas set for June 17-19. It welcomes nearly 100 youth sailors from the Caribbean, U.S. and Europe for keen competition and camaraderie preceded by a three-day clinic and one-day team race. Then, the Premiers Cup International Youth Regatta takes place in the British Virgin Islands July 16-17 and hosts nearly a dozen teams from throughout the region who camp out at Nanny Cay Marina and compete in modified one-design J/24s called IC24s. The Caribbean vibe is especially strong at the Carriacou Regatta scheduled for July 24th to August 1st. Sailors in modern boats as well as wooden workboats race. Shoreside festivities include greasy pole, egg and spoon, tug of war, and donkey races.
Fall for the sea
Late autumn regattas start up as hurricane season comes to an end. The Discover the Caribbean Regatta organized at the Ponce Yacht and Fishing Club in Puerto Rico October 28-30 offers classes for everyone from dinghy to larger keelboat sailors along with nightly fiestas. The St. Croix International Regatta November 11-13 in the U.S.V.I. bills itself as a great way to tune up for the upcoming winter/spring racing season. The Mango Bowl Regatta held at the St. Lucia Yacht Club November 25-27 features a strong contingent of J/24 sailors as well as a pig roast on the beach.
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine January 2016
Start off your year just right by upholding your community service resolution. IGY Marinas, the worldwide marina network, presents its community service initiative project, Inspire Giving Through You. The project that will launch with multiple events in various destinations over two dates is set to focus on community-based initiatives where the company operates its marinas. On February 20th, the community outreach events will directly benefit the Caribbean and Latin American communities. The second set of events will take place throughout the United States and The Bahamas on June 11th to improve the communities surrounding IGY Marinas’ corporate offices in Charleston, South Carolina; Fort Lauderdale, Florida; and New York, New York; as well as its marinas. All hands on deck are encourage to support the efforts from IGY staff, marina associates, boat owners, captains, and crew to take part in this new endeavor.
The program’s objective is threefold: to identify a need area at each marina destination and partner with a nonprofit organization; to coordinate a community-focused event, where IGY associates, customers and partners can make a difference; and to give back to each community. Opportunities will range from animal adoptions to improvement for youth group and elderly organizations, and more. “Guests and boaters come to our marinas to enjoy the destinations, local cultures and attractions,” said IGY Marinas CEO Tom Mukamal. “We have always included community service into our business practices, and now we have an ambitious plan to embark on our 2016 community outreach project to give back to the local destinations in which we live and work.”
February 20th—Caribbean and South America:
Yacht Club at Isle de Sol (St. Maarten)
Yacht Haven Grande (St. Thomas)
Blue Haven Marina (Turks & Caicos)
Marina Cabo San Lucas (Mexico)
Simpson Bay Marina (St. Maarten)
American Yacht Harbor (St. Thomas)
Red Frog Beach Marina (Panama)
Marina Santa Marta (Colombia)
June 11th—United States and The Bahamas:
North Cove Marina (Manhattan, New York)
Marinas at Resorts World Bimini (Bahamas)
Montauk Yacht Club Resort & Marina (Hamptons, New York)
Newport Yacht Club & Marina (Newport, New Jersey)
Island hop this cruiser’s paradise in which scenery, characters and proximity appeal to novice and experienced boaters alike.
The dinghies approached us as if they had suddenly materialized on the water, before we even had a chance to grab onto a mooring. Time to pay up the mooring ball fee, we thought. Instead the men broke out singing. “Oh, what a beautiful morning,” belted out Sacko Sam under the high noon sun. That’s the kind of unforgettable welcome you get in the British Virgin Islands, where the serenity of the islands, majestic sceneries and colorful characters charm and invite you for a new adventure, no matter how many times you’ve cruised their turquoise seas.
In early August the Southern Boating crew composed of my family and friends took off for a seven day cruise aboard two powercats from The Moorings charter fleet, the 514PC and the 393PC. The trip was to give us quality time together, and while one cat would have accommodated all 10 of us, I had an ulterior motive: a learning experience for the younger generation (my children) to learn to navigate, read the waters and charts, monitor the onboard machinery, and master anchoring and mooring techniques. In short, they would man their very own vessel in unfamiliar waters. From the distance of my powercat, I watched (as a proud father, teacher and captain) as they gained confidence and at times took the lead, guiding them when necessary.
After a quick stop in Road Town on Tortola (The Moorings’ base) to pick up our powercats, we departed for this archipelago of 60 islands, where one seemingly hops from island to island—a boater’s cruising paradise (and an ideal learning ground).
First on our journey: an easy and short southeast cruise to Cooper Island less than 7 nm away—a perfect way for the crew to familiarize itself with the vessels, take the dinghies out and relax in the crystal waters.
Skip Allen at the helm of the Mooring powercat.
Majestic mountains and crystal waters await everyone at The Bitter End Yacht Club on Virgin Gorda Island.
The colorful corals and sea life on the ocean floor of Virgin Gorda Island.
Our home for a week aboard one of The Moorings powercats.
Sacko Sam from Potter’s By The Sea on Anegada Island prepares a succulent dinner of monster lobster.
One of the Southern Boating crew member proudly showing off the large lobster he will eat later.
A typical afternoon on the white sandy beaches of the B.V.I.
On your next trip to Anegada Island, visit Potter’s By The Sea and see the many remembrances from our and other travelers.
The sign marks the spot of famed Foxy’s Bar on Jost Van Dyke’s Great Harbour.
This charter experience created great memories and a stronger bond among the crew.
A Southern Boating “mermaid” during one of the many snorkeling adventures.
A crew member enjoying a stroll through the gargantuan boulders of The Baths on Virgin Gorda.
The bewitching braided trees and stone stacking on George Dog.
A mechanical issue on the 51′ powercat—a fizzling air conditioner due to trapped seaweed in the intake—had us cruising uncomfortably under high temperatures for a bit, yet failed to derail our plans. One of The Moorings’ certified technicians—who are scattered throughout the islands and readily available—quickly met us at our next stop, immediately identified and fixed the common problem as we explored (our minds at ease) The Bath and its gargantuan boulders on the south end of Virgin Gorda Island. The dazzling granite boulders, reminders of the island’s volcanic origins, form natural sheltered pools and scenic grottoes. Take the dinghy around a bit before you pick a spot to start exploring or be prepared for a lot of swimming to go around the boulders. We spent the evening docked at Bitter End Yacht Club, where we feasted at its landmark Clubhouse Steak & Seafood Grille, a favorite rendezvous for visiting boaters for its sea-to-table approach.
It was right as we arrived on Anegada Island—the longest jaunt of our trip—that the serenading men in their dinghies met us, their songs meant to lure us to their eateries and the island’s specialty: lobster. Sam, the jubilant chef of Potter’s By The Sea won us over, and after making our dinner reservations arranged for a taxi to take us to Loblolly Beach on the north shore for an afternoon of snorkeling on the Eastern Caribbean’s third largest continuous reef—where baby octopi, monster lobsters and yellowtail fish inhabit the vibrant corals. We made a quick stop at Flash of Beauty Beach, an improvised shack-like bar with its self-service refrigerator—as if walking into someone’s back porch straight from the seas—where the owner, a woman from Trinidad and Tobago decked out in a muumuu, sandals and head wrap entertained us with tales from the island. Wild goats and cattle roamed the flat and dry terrain, interspersed by marshes, where hundreds of bright pink flamingoes gathered on the road back to Potter’s By The Sea. As the sun came down, the simple and colorful shack house with its wooden picnic tables came to life with strings of lights dangling from the tin ceiling. Sam danced and sang by the grill. T-shirts and flags from previous visitors hang on the roof. We added our own decór contribution and left a Southern Boating shirt behind.
While Great Dog Island was our next intended destination, the lack of available moorings led us to Kitchen Point on George Dog. There, the trees’ long branches shot out and seemingly braided with one another to form natural trellises, where visitors left balanced stacks of rocks behind—we added our own. We docked at Scrub Island Resort & Marina on Scrub Island, reveled in their salt water two-level infinity pool—the slide takes you from the top level with pool bar right to the bottom—and shopped at the many boutiques before enjoying a scrumptious dinner of fresh seafood at Tierra! Tierra! under the stars. Back at the docks, a real spectacle awaited us as jellyfish and tarpons glided in the waters lit by colorful underwater lights.
We encountered yet another character on Brewers Bay on the northern coast of Tortola. Miss Lou, a petite woman in her 70s with weathered skin and a knack for captivating anecdotes, owned yet another small bar along the white sandy beach. It was as we sat enjoying our drinks, taking in the view of the mountains and recounting Miss Lou’s stories that we almost lost one of our dinghies—not pulled nearly far enough on the sand, it gave in to the waves that took it hundreds of yards away. (It does happen to the most experienced of boaters.)
We moored on Jost Van Dyke’s Great Harbour and strolled along the waterside road with its bars, gift shops, dive shops, small markets, and a fresh drink at Foxy’s Bar. The next day we moved westward to White Bay, home of the famed Soggy Dollar Bar, where patrons linger to play a game of ring toss. We finished our cruise with a visit to Norman Island known for its legends and tales of pirates and treasures, where more snorkeling awaited us within the dark caves of Treasure Point.
The laid-back vibe of the B.V.I. and the proximity of the islands invite you to abandon your agenda and just go with the flow. Whether the lack of moorings, the weather, your crew’s change of heart—or their newly gained confidence—allow yourself to hop from islets to cays and coves, take in the scenery, and discover the B.V.I again and again through the eyes of its most colorful characters.
Sailing rallies, swashbuckling fun and superyachts
It’s easy to cruise to the Caribbean this fall. Just join a rally! Cast off November 1st in the North Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (NARC), which targets professionally crewed yachts and departs from the Newport Yachting Center, Rhode Island, en route to Saint Martin via Bermuda. Bluewater experienced sailors cast off on November 2nd on the Salty Dawg Rally that transits from Hampton, Virginia, to Virgin Gorda, B.V.I. On November 8th, the Caribbean 1500 also sets sail from Hampton to the B.V.I of Tortola and welcomes those who prefer the safety and camaraderie of a rally on their first major offshore passage. Finally, hitch a ride on November 22nd across the pond in the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC), from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Canary Islands to Saint Lucia. This multinational rally boasts seniors, babies and even pets as participants, although those at the helm are usually experienced yachtsmen. Each rally offers social events that are a great way to meet other cruisers and get the scoop on exploring the rest of the Caribbean during the winter. sailopo.com; saltydawgrally.org; worldcruising.com
Pirate’s Week
Ahoy Mateys! Look for exploding fireworks, costume competitions, street performances, and more at the Cayman Islands’ famous Pirates Week November 12-22. Staged in George Town, Grand Cayman, “[Pirates Week]’s a one-of-a-kind festival, where thousands of people from all over the world can feel part of a global celebration featuring a mock pirate invasion, while getting a taste of Caymanian heritage and culture,” says Melanie McField, festival executive director. “Not to mention, the event is perfect for families as it offers plenty of dancing, music, games, local food, and drink, giving guests a chance to experience the unmatched Cayman-kind culture.” New this year is the first-ever Pirates Week Charity Golf Classic on November 20th. The next day brings the Pirate Pooch Parade to benefit the local humane society and the Illumination Night Parade featuring yachts decorated in twinkling lights circling the harbor. Dock at the Barcadere Marina or Harbour House Marina, the closest to the festivities if arriving by sea. piratesweekfestival.com
First superyacht marina on Nevis
The founding father of the U.S. Coast Guard was born here, but it won’t be until next year when superyachts can dock on the Caribbean island of Nevis. Tamarind Cove Marina will open in January 2016 in Cades Bay, four miles north of the island’s capital and Alexander Hamilton’s birthplace, Charleston. “Phase One includes five slips for yachts up to 200 feet, while Phase Two, which we will start next year, will offer several slips for yachts up to 300 feet in length with a depth of 15 feet. In total, there will be about 100 slips of various sizes,” says Adrian Dozier, director of Tamarind Cove Marina Development Ltd. The property will also feature a 126-room hotel, spa, casino, yacht club, shops, bars, and restaurants. tamarindcovenevis.com
Sample traditional Latin flavors and rhythms at Fiesta Típica, the signature shore-side event part of Club Náutico de San Juan’s six-decade-old International Billfish Tournament set for September 24-30. On the water, organizers aim to add an exciting new challenge as well as a bold conservation move by setting the regulation weight of fishing line at only 30 pounds instead of the customary 50 or 80 pounds. “We hope to increase participation from world-class anglers around the globe with a change to lighter line,” says tournament chairman Ricky Jaen. The September full moon signals the peak of the marlin season in Puerto Rico’s famous Northern Trench known as Marlin Alley. In addition to Fiesta Típica there is a full program of land activities for non-fishing spouses and spectators. sanjuaninternational.com
The team aboard Picara fights a blue marlin in the IBT., Photo: Richard Gibson
BVI-Trellis Bay, Courtesy of BVI Tourist Board
Caribbean Sea Jazz Festival in Aruba, Courtesy of Festival Organizers
Caribbean Sea Jazz Festival in Aruba, Courtesy of Festival Organizers
Caribbean Sea Jazz Festival in Aruba, Courtesy of Festival Organizers
Caribbean Sea Jazz Festival in Aruba, Courtesy of Festival Organizers
Aruba’s music festival
Go “below the belt” out of hurricane reach to Aruba for the 9th Annual Caribbean Sea Jazz Festival Aruba. Set for September 25-26 at the Renaissance Festival Plaza adjacent to the 158-slip Renaissance Marina, this two-day, open-air concert will welcome groups such as Earth, Wind & Fire; the Mike Stern Band; Jessy J; and the Ploctones. If you’re not into Jazz, there’ll be a good music mix of Latin, Blues, Funk, Soul, and Salsa. “The Festival is not only about great music. We also have an outstanding food court with eight different restaurants, numerous bars, an art gallery, and a tantalizing atmosphere on site,” says Friso Veenman, the Festival’s executive producer. New this year, Eat Local Aruba Restaurant Week follows from September 28th to October 9th. Sample the island’s national dish, Keshi Yena, a spicy mix of beef, goat or chicken stuffed into a round of Gouda or Edam cheese and baked. Participating restaurants offer prix-fixe lunches for $15 and dinners for $30-40. Both events are within walking distance from the Renaissance Marina in Oranjestad, Aruba’s capital city. caribbeanseajazz.com
B.V.I.’s iconic full moon parties
Full moon parties—in reality, hedonistic affairs complete with pain-killing drinks, pulsating music and rumors of psychedelic mushrooms—are an iconic way to celebrate monthly in the B.V.I. This pleasurable practice began back in the early 1970s when Bomba Smith Callwood cobbled together some driftwood, plywood boards, old tires, broken surfboards, and whatever else he could scavenge to build a beachside bar in Capoons Bay. Bomba started his full moon parties soon after, creating a boom in business that landed his namesake Bomba Shack on AOL’s Top Ten list for best beach bars in the world. Today, this full moon tradition has spread to Trellis Bay on Beef Island and to Foxy’s Bar in Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke. Mark your calendar now! All three will happen on September 27th.
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine September, 2015
Big boats, beach cats and board sailors will all find a class in which to compete at the International Aruba Regatta set for August 14 to 16. An 80-plus boat fleet is expected with sailors flying in from Bonaire, Curaçao, Venezuela, the United States, Belgium, and the Netherlands. The action takes place off Surfside Beach located between the Queen Beatrix International Airport and the island’s capitol of Oranjestad. Last year’s additions of stand-up paddleboard and micro-boat races as well as a self-built boat demonstration and race are set to continue. “One of the things that makes this regatta special is that all courses, which are short and geared toward competitive sailing, are in sight of the regatta beach. This makes it possible to follow the races from the shade of the beach tents with a beer in your hand!” says organizer Eric Mijts. Shoreside activities include food, live music and entertainment at the Regatta Village on Surfside Beach. aruba-regatta.com
Center Console Tournament in the U.S.V.I.
Get your team together and be one of the first to fish the new ‘Wet N’ Wild’ Center Console Tournament set for August 28th and 29th to be held out of IGY’s American Yacht Harbor Marina, on St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. “Fishermen in this two-day tournament, which is held in tandem with the USVI Open/Atlantic Blue Marlin Tournament (ABMT), can score points by catching the Virgin Islands ‘Big 5’—blue marlin, white marlin, sailfish, wahoo and yellowfin tuna—on stand-up light tackle,” says Tournament Director Jimmy Loveland. “There will be best team prizes for the top three teams with the most points and a Best Angler prize.” Entries are expected from the B.V.I., Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, St. Martin, and the U.S. mainland. Several center consoles are available for charter from outfits such as Ocean Surfaris, Capt. Alvin and Offshore Adventures. The ‘Wet N’ Wild’ Center Console Tournament is part of MarlinFest, a week of fun activities around the ABMT that includes an arts and crafts festival, chowder competition, golf tournament, beach BBQ, and daytrip to the BVI. abmt.vi
New Boatyard in Grenada
The Clarke’s Court Boatyard & Marina has been redeveloped into a major yacht storage yard under new ownership. Located on Grenada’s southern shore east of the capital of St. George’s, the yard can haul vessels up to 242 tons with a 39-foot beam and store up to 400 yachts at a time on the hard. A soft opening happens this month, while Phase I will be completed shortly after. This includes the haul-out slipway, reinforced load-bearing track, concreting of the main storage area, washrooms, and service building that will house the chandlery. The build-out of Phases II and III, which includes development of the marina and construction of a restaurant, swimming pool and accommodations, will follow over the next few years. Call (473) 439-3939; info@clarkescourtmarina.com
St. Croix is set apart from her U.S.V.I. sisters but well worth the journey.
Arrive by sea to St. Croix’s main harbor in Christiansted and you’ll think you’re sailing back in time. Fort Christiansvaern looms large. Its sunny yellow exterior crafted from ballast brick and completed in the mid-1700s once protected against pirates and privateers. Today, the fort is part of the Christiansted National Historic Site, a seven-acre complex of historic buildings such as the Customs House, Scale House, and Danish West Indian & Guinea Company Warehouse that are managed by the U.S. National Park Service and open to the public. Several yards to the west is a two-story tall coral-rock constructed replica of a sugar-era windmill. It’s a beacon to thirsty mariners since nowadays it doubles as a bar on the waterfront’s boardwalk. Then, there’s Christiansted itself. The one-square-mile settlement is an amazing showpiece of 18th-century colonial architecture iconic for its red-hued roofs under which currently sit trendy restaurants, jewelry shops and art galleries. History, a chance to really experience bygone times up close and personal, is what sets St. Croix apart from its sibling U.S. Virgin Islands of St. Thomas and St. John. Yet there is plenty of nature to love on St. Croix, too, as well as a host of modern-day services, luxuries and amenities.
St. Croix’s 84-square-miles makes it nearly triple the size of St. Thomas’ 31-square-miles and over four times larger than St. John—both islands are situated some 40 nautical miles to the north-northeast. The “Big Island”, as its often nicknamed, boasts a few other distinguishing points. For one, St. Croix was the last to become part of the Danish West Indies. The Danes moved south in 1733 to expand their sugar plantation empire, but they weren’t the first to do so. St. Croix has been the most fought over of the Virgins. Seven nations and military groups have laid claim to the island—Spain, the Netherlands, England, France, the Knights of Malta, Denmark, and the United States—the flags of whom line the dock at the St. Croix Yacht Club in Teague Bay. The island’s size proved a boon to the U.S. upon purchase in 1917. Not only did this provide America with a sizable military presence in the Caribbean, it has since proved valuable for investment. Rum, from the Cruzan and Captain Morgan distilleries—both offer tours and sampling bars—is a three-century-old industry that now pumps from $100-250 million back into the local economy annually thanks to a federal excise tax. Until 2011, St. Croix was home to the second largest petroleum refinery in the western hemisphere, which closed in 2012 and is now up for sale. Looking ahead, it’s the island’s location at the nexus of a global fiber optic telecommunications system that has it poised to attract cutting edge commercial enterprises.
The Christiansted Boardwalk in Christiansted is lined by shops, bars and restaurants. Photo courtesy Dean Barnes.
The Whim Plantation Museum and Greathouse. Photo courtesy usvipressroom.com.
A replica of a plantation sugar mill that today has been converted into the Comanche Mill Yachtless Club, where drinks and snacks are served. Photo courtesy Dean Barnes.
Crucian Christmas Festival in late December is the
island’s largest festival.
International yacht racing in the Buck Island Channel during the St. Croix International Regatta.
Scuba diving with turtles in Walker Bay. Photo stcroixscuba.com
Scuba diving the Rosaomaira Wreck in Butler Bay. Photo stcroixscuba.com
It’s an enjoyable stroll to Fort Christiansvaern in
Christiansted. Across the bay, Hotel on the Cay is visible in the background. Photo courtesy Dean Barnes.
But it’s not employment that brings most people to St. Croix. Rather, it’s the mix of laidback civilization combined with the oftentimes deserted beaches and anchorages that provide a Robinson Crusoe feel in the 21st century.
Christiansted is the perfect place to start a visit. This is especially true if you are traveling by sea from a non-U.S. port. The Customs and Immigration office is located one mile east of downtown, in Gallows Bay, adjacent to St. Croix Marine. George Custer, a 30-year veteran megayacht captain, bought this 44-slip marina and boatyard last year. He offers fuel, a chandlery, DIY yard and services such as welding, fiberglass, painting, and resto-mod work—retrofitting classic powerboats and small pedigree sailboats with green technology while maintaining the traditional lines. It’s an easy walk to Gallows Bay and downtown Christiansted where there are plenty of places to eat, drink and shop as well as to arrange a day sail, sports fishing or scuba diving trip. Special events in this area include Happy Hour hermit crab races at the Fort Christian Brew Pub on Mondays, free Jazz concerts the third Friday of each month, and four annual street parties called Jump-Ups held in late November, mid February, early May, and mid-July.
Frederiksted, 15 miles west of Christiansted, is the second largest town on St. Croix. A number of cruise ships dock at the Pier each year, yet pleasure boats must anchor in the open harbor. There are a couple of restaurants, but the real draw here is what to see and do in the surrounding area. Crucian Heritage and Nature Tourism (CHANT) hosts 90-minute historic walking tours of the town when there is a cruise ship in port. The tour group also offers a three-hour tour to the sustainable Ridge to Reef Farm, in the island’s rainforest, where there is hiking, birdwatching and sampling locally grown fruits and vegetables. The Whim Plantation Greathouse Museum, two miles east of Frederiksted, depicts life on an 18th-century sugar plantation and hosts candlelight concerts, starving artist days and an antiques fair. Two miles east of Whim is the St. George’s Village Botanical Garden with its rainforest walk, cactus garden and impressive stand of mahogany trees.
The best anchorages on St. Croix are along the island’s north shore where a barrier reef protects the coastline. One of these is at Salt River, west of Christiansted, where Christopher Columbus dropped anchor and set his crew ashore for food and water in 1493. The Jones family, who arrived to the island nearly 30 years ago and started the first ASA sailing school in Christiansted, renovated and reopened the 40-slip Salt River Marina a few years ago. It has kayak rentals and dive shop. Next door are the construction facilities of Gold Coast Yachts, famous for their seaworthy multihulls.
Teague Bay to the east is another excellent anchorage. The St. Croix Yacht Club, which hosts the St. Croix International Regatta each November and a number of smaller regattas each year, is based here. The Buck Island Reef National Monument, or Buck Island for short, is less than one nautical mile to the northeast. This 176-acre island, which is managed by the U.S. National Park Service, is uninhabited except for day trippers and boasts white sand beaches, a hiking trail and an underwater snorkel trail.
St. Croix, owing to its U.S. flag status, is filled with all the comforts of a home on the mainland. There are large supermarkets, strip malls, big box stores such as Home Depot, and fast food chains like McDonald’s, KFC and Pizza Hut for those with a hankering for the U.S. mainland. Tourism is robust. Luxury resorts such as The Buccaneer, with its spas and fine dining, are perched right on the beach as is the island’s only casino at the Divi Carina Bay Beach Resort. Direct daily flights on American Airlines, US Airways and jetBlue arrive from Miami, Charlotte and Boston, respectively, to the Alexander Hamilton Airport where most rental cars come with GPS as a handy tour guide. Contemporary amenities in a historic setting is what makes St. Croix a best-of-both-worlds cruising destination.
In 2009, Rebecca Rothney of Raleigh, North Carolina, came up with the idea of encouraging travellers to maximize airlines’ checked luggage allowance by taking much-needed supplies to the destinations they visit. Over the past six years, Pack for a Purpose participants to the Caribbean have supported educational, health and animal welfare projects. For example, sailors who took part in last fall’s Black Boaters Summit trip to Scrub Island Resort, Spa & Marina in the British Virgin Islands packed on board and delivered a variety of school supplies for the children at the territory’s Autism Center. Each charitable project on the Pack for a Purpose website comes with a specific list of desired items. Beneficiaries are located on 14 islands from Jamaica and the Dominican Republic south to Grenada and Curacao. “The wonderful ability that yachtsmen have that people flying do not is the ability to take as much as they can carry. Just maximizing the supplies they choose to take is a wonderful way of saying thank you to the inhabitants on the islands that they visit,” says Rothney. packforapurpose.org
Dark View Falls on St. Vincent offer a great gateway to the Grenedines. PHOTO: St. Vincent and The Grenadines Tourism Authority.
The waters surrounding St. Vincent are a pearl of a cruising destination. First, this Windward Island south of St. Lucia and to the east of Barbados is home to Wallilabou Bay. The big draw here is seeing some of the set remnants used by Disney when filming Pirates of the Caribbean. There are moorings at this quiet anchorage, a local seafood restaurant on shore, and the nearby Wallilabou Heritage Park is a great place to swim in a waterfall. Second, the southern part of St. Vincent is the great gateway to the Grenadines, an idyllic 37-mile stepping stone of islands to the south, which includes charming Bequia, well-heeled Mustique and the marine reserve at the Tobago Cays. A recently completed refurbishment makes the Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina, located in the safe haven of Cannash Bay on St. Vincent’s southern tip and 11 nautical miles from Wallilabou Bay, is a perfect place to start a charter. The now bright-decor rooms earned the hotel a number one rating for accommodations on St. Vincent on a popular travel website. The hotel complex offers a restaurant and bar, café, beach bar, grocery store, chandlery, boutique, fitness center, swimming pool, dive and watersports facility, car rental, concierge services, and a Horizon Yacht Charters base. The full-service marina, the only one of its kind on St. Vincent, offers in-slip water and electric, free Wi-Fi, sail loft, laundry facilities and a fuel dock. Plans are underway to expand the marina up to 200 berths. Blue Lagoon is an official port of entry to St. Vincent as is Wallilabou Bay.
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine July, 2015
Picturesque villages welcome and authentic French-Caribbean cuisine lures explorers to this French West Indies island gem.
Once known to local Indians as “Karukera” (the islands of beautiful waters), Guadeloupe, the largest of the Lesser Antilles, offers a wonderful and compact microcosm of the rest of the more familiar French West Indies. Cruise among the five main islands—and a dozen smaller ones—halfway between Antigua and Dominica, and you’ll discover chic cafes and hidden beaches to rival St. Barts, a boisterous spirit that outdoes fun-loving St. Martin, and a brooding volcanic beauty wilder than Martinique.
While Guadeloupe is officially part of France and the Euro is the currency of the realm, English is not as widely spoken here as it is in her sister islands—asking someone if they speak English will be greeted with a cold look. But learn the phrase “je parle un peu francais” (I speak a little French), and, true or not, you’ll be greeted with smiles and earnest attempts to communicate. July is a great time to visit and is when locals hoist sails for a nine-day race around the archipelago in traditional sailboats.
The Guadeloupe “mainland” is really two sister islands separated by the Salty River. On a chart, the islands look like the wings of a butterfly. Grand Terre (big land) is the wing to the northeast, a relatively low island and home to Pointe-a-Pitre, Guadeloupe’s largest city, busiest port and the commercial heart of the island. Base yourself out of the Bas-du-Fort marina located just over a mile south of the commercial port. It’s packed with restaurants and shops, and you can explore the southern coast and its string of seaside towns. Gosier—just over three miles from the marina and where most of the luxury resorts are based—has a fun night market and well-lit Datcha Beach for an evening dip. Sainte Anne—another 10 miles further east—boasts a beautiful seafront promenade and one of the island’s prettiest and busiest white-sand beaches.
Cuisine at Auberge de la Vieille Tour, a hotel. Local restaurants and cafes provide excellent opportunities to sample both French and Creole meals.
Guadeloupe has an abundance of fresh produce available in the markets.
A café in Marie Galante Guadeloupe illustrates that cuisine is everything to the French.
Rum distillery – Distillerie Bellevue
Joel Kichenin, the Chef at Auberge de la Vieille Tour
Island cuisine: Guadeloupe boasts cuisine made with fresh ingredients not just from the Caribbean but also from neighboring French territories such as these shrimp from Guyana.
Distillerie Bellevue – The rums as well as the rum products of the Bellevue Distillery are quite good and worth a try.
French architecture and art abounds throughout the island.
Sugar cane farmer Alex Brute uses a traditional bull carriage hauled by his cows Shiny and Sophie.
Marie and her dog are your inviting hosts at Red Fish Restaurant.
Red Fish Restaurant at Tendacayou Ecolodge & Spa
Habitation Murat, a former sugar cane plantation.
View of the harbor on Terre-de-Haute. The harbor and town are a popular yachting and tourist destination.
Sugar cane cutting in preparation for distilling
Les Saintes
Cascade aux Ecrevisses (Crayfish Waterfall) in Parc National de la Guadeloupe. Mainland Guadeloupe is draped with mountains and waterfalls.
Due west across the Salty River near Pointe-A-Pitre is the rugged island of Basse Terre, the southwest “wing” of the butterfly. The island is home to the namesake capital Basse Terre town in the shadow of Soufriere, the island’s tallest volcano. Most cruisers will head further north to the Jacques Cousteau Marine Reserve near Pigeon Island—divers can hunt for his bust down around 40 feet. Another 10-mile leg will get you to Deshaies Bay, a well-protected and scenic harbor. The waterfront is packed with fine restaurants and shops and locally is famous as the tropical setting for the British detective series Death in Paradise.
Just over six miles south of the mainland are the smallest, but the most picturesque and cruiser-friendly of the islands, the lovely Les Saintes (a miniature archipelago). These eight, knobby islands were the backdrop of a ferocious four-day naval battle in 1782. The Royal British fleet pounded and then hounded 35 of France’s best ships, ultimately turning back a planned French and Spanish invasion of Jamaica. While the debate still lingers, the engagement is credited with being where the British tactic of “breaking the line” was developed—sailing right through the enemy’s guns to rout them from behind—though wind conditions may have been more responsible.
Today, except for the ridge-top ramparts of Fort Napoleon guarding the bay of Terre de Haut (the main island) and the locals’ stories of booming cannon shots on moonless nights, the ghosts of war are quiet, and one of the bloodiest naval battlefields in the Caribbean is now one of the most beautiful—UNESCO has officially designated Les Saintes Bay among the world’s most beautiful bays.
The fishing village of Le Bourg is the center of cruising culture in Les Saintes, and yachts and sailboats from all corners of the Caribbean, Latin America and the U.S. moor offshore in a bay sheltered by Goat Island, once a penal colony and way station for prisoners bound for the notorious Devil’s Island off French Guiana. The village is easily walkable and soaked in French Creole ambience—gingerbread houses spill with bougainvillea. Women dressed in traditional fire-colored Madras sell “torment d’amour” (delicious pineapple- and guava-stuffed pastries) from wicker baskets, while bare-chested fishermen in straw hats carry tuna from the dock.
A 20-minute walk—or five-minute ride in an electric car—from town along a narrow road brings you to Fort Napoleon and its impressive museum and some of the best views of the bay. More ambitious hikers can attempt The Hat—the highest point on the island—for the most panoramic views. The Hat is only a mile southwest of town as the crow flies but a steep one-hour, two-mile walk up a closed-off road, switched back road. Go early in the morning and, except for a herd of wild goats, you’ll have the summit all to yourself.
Beyond the pure beauty of the Les Saintes, cruisers are drawn by the superb cuisine. No fewer than 30 restaurants can be found in and around Le Bourg. A few minutes’ walk from the main pier is Ti Kaz La (Little House). The restaurant, owned by Philippe Dade (a former Four Seasons chef) mixes local Creole dishes—accra and octopus, which tend to be heavier—with the lighter cuisine and desserts of Metropole, France. Not surprisingly, the seafood is fresh and the wine selection is straight from Paris—the open-air dining room looks right out on the bay.
Les Saintes has plenty of pretty and secluded beaches. Run your dinghy about a mile due west of the pier—out around the prominent Sugarloaf Point—and tuck into the namesake beach, a very private, palm-shaded strand with a small wooden pier. The water is so clear you can see old landslide debris more than 30 feet down. A potentially rougher ride takes you around the south side of the island—keep your rod ready for schooling tuna as flocks of terns will point out the boiling bait balls—to Pompiere Beach on the Atlantic side. The pretty bay, also an easy walk from town, has a grove of tall coconut palms. The beach itself is soft brown sand and is fairly sheltered from the open ocean by a row of rocky islets.
“Authentique” is the word Guadeloupians use to describe Marie Galante, an island 16 miles south of Grand Terre and only slightly smaller than Martha’s Vineyard. Marie Galante even has an off-season Vineyard feel to it—small country estates are tucked among the rolling fields and empty roads. The main town, Grand Bourg, offers a small harbor and is where the inter-island ferries also dock. Nearby is the 18th-century Murat Plantation and museum. The main house sits on a hill overlooking the limestone shell of the old distillery and the ruins of a windmill. Hidden among the flamboyant trees are the rusting artifacts of the sugar age, massive iron kettles overgrown by flowers. Beyond a traditional Creole garden is a haunting reconstruction of the mud-and-wattle slave quarters. For a more personal glimpse of the past, ask around the ferry dock for Alex Brute, a farmer and sometimes cab driver who takes tourists out to his sugar cane fields in “the world’s first SUV”—a traditional bull cart drawn by Shiny and Sonya.
Locals swear the beaches are the prettiest in the archipelago, and they’re easily among the least crowded. Vieux Fort Beach is narrow and steep and has pillow-soft sand—the coconut trees far outnumber any beachgoers. Even more remote pocket beaches can be found by sailing along the wilder northeast coast where, on a clear day, you can gaze longingly at the distant shores of La Desirade, a narrow ridge of land 22 miles north, another island left for another journey.
Words & Photos By Jad Davenport, Southern Boating April 2015
Grenada is nicknamed “The Spice Isle” for its production of nutmeg—it’s the second largest growing and exporting nation in the world behind Indonesia. Few realize, however, that this southern Caribbean island is also a chocolate lover’s paradise. The best way to sample this fact is at the Grenada Chocolate Festival, set for May 8 to 17 and held out of the True Blue Bay Resort & Marina. “Grenada is one of the very few countries in the world that produces a high quality, organic and sustainable cocoa, and a very special and delicious Bean to Bar Chocolate,” explains organizer, Magdalena Fielden, whose husband Russ worked in the charter yacht industry until buying the resort in 1998. “The creation of the Grenada Chocolate Fest has been inspired by the vision of Mott Green, the late founder of the Grenada Chocolate Company, who wanted to develop a sustainable chocolate industry that would inspire different sectors of the community to be creative and take advantage of the very valuable cocoa that the island produces.” Chocolate parties, health benefit workshops, hands-on culinary sessions, factory visits, farmer for a day outing, a beachside chocolate fest, chocolate tasting yacht charter, and sunset bonfire with culinary competition are all part of the fun. New this year, Diamond Chocolate factory will participate and offer visitors a chance to design their own chocolate bar. “Visitors can choose from among the events which, of course, will feature a lot of chocolate and cocoa tasting!” chocolate. truebluebay.com
Barbados May Regatta
Teams anticipate this year’s Barbados May Regatta. Photo: Peter Marshall.
The Virgin Islands, St. Maarten and Antigua are the three big island destinations for yacht racing in the Caribbean. Yet this month marks a great chance to get off the beaten track and sail or spectate on Barbados. Formerly British-owned, the island is located east of St. Lucia and St. Vincent and the Grenadines and will host the Barbados Sailing Association’s Barbados May Regatta from May 21 to 24. The action takes place in Carlisle Bay just off the capital city of Bridgetown, and the festivities will be held at the beautiful 90-year-old Barbados Yacht Club. Multiple classes are held including some multihulls added for variety and a fleet of one-design J/24s. More than 30 yachts from Barbados, Trinidad & Tobago, Grenada, St. Lucia, Martinique, and St. Vincent and the Grenadines attend making this Barbados’ premier regatta of the year. The race committee plans varied, challenging courses tailored to suit each class, which means great racing for all. “The Club has excellent facilities for sailors with no great distance required to travel after a day of racing,” says organizer Penny McIntyre. “There is a fantastic camaraderie among the sailors and lively after-race parties, barbeques, DJ’s, happy hours and a coconut vendor. If you have not sipped a Mount Gay and coconut water, you best come join!” The regatta is sponsored by Mount Gay, providers of the signature red hats, and Banks Breweries. barbadosyachtclub.com.
Stretching more than four miles along the southeast coast of Hispaniola, and nestled among Cuba, The Bahamas, Turks and Caicos, and Puerto Rico, Casa de Campo—a 7,000-acre luxury resort in the Dominican Republic—presents a veritable paradise for cruisers. An esteemed member of the Leading Hotels in the World group, Casa de Campo models itself as “a house in the country”—only quite a bit larger—and renowned Italian architect, designer and sailor Gianfranco Fini’s innovative styling can be seen throughout the grounds. Countless amenities and activities for cruisers include 63 holes of golf— the ever-popular “Teeth of the Dog” golf course is consistently ranked by the pros as one of the world’s best—and with average year-round temperatures ranging from 84-88 degrees, playing 18 on any of the four picturesque golf courses is a real treat. If golf isn’t your game of choice, however, options include an 18-court tennis club, horseback riding, shooting range, and fitness center with Turkish bath and sauna. But the true pièce de résistance for cruisers and fisherman is the impressive Casa de Campo Marina. It’s situated perfectly for easy access to the beautiful surrounding waters from which blue marlin is the predominant catch, as evidenced by a staggering 400-plus blue marlin release count among 18 fishing boats over 61 days last year. Seasoned mariners with the right means will find the voyage to be a feasible venture, especially when armed with the latest copy of A Cruising Guide to the Dominican Republic—Fifth Edition by Frank Virgintino (a free PDF download is available at freecruisingguides.com), and certainly well worth the trek at the other end.
Casa de Campo Marina (casadecampo.com.do) and the Casa de Campo Yacht Club (CCYC) opened their doors in November 2001 and changed Casa de Campo’s culture by attracting a whole new clientele. Architect Gianfranco Fini and business partner Piero Giacosa—now the president of Casa de Campo Marina —approached Casa de Campo’s owners with their vision to develop a marina in a once abandoned area of the grounds, driven by the duo’s passion for the area. “I sail [to] other islands and admire their beauty, but there is always something missing in them. That something is the human warmth that [Casa de Campo] offers in such abundance,” recalls Fini.
Today, the marina’s 22-plus-acres offer 370 slips for yachts up to 250 feet, a stately, two-story colonial-style yacht club with pillared terraces designed to conjure up an atmosphere of days gone by, a 10,000-square-foot boatyard with a 120-ton Travelift, more than 60 shops, a residential community, plus the necessary government authorities to accommodate international check-ins.
Casa de Campo Marina’s Director-General José Gonzalvo works hard to make the CCYC attractive to all visitors whether they’re yacht owners, captains or crew. Guest safety is taken seriously as well. Security is tight from the outside, a welcome feature for cruisers bringing their expensive toys to the locale—and Casa de Campo Marina Marketing Manager, Vilma Nuñez asserts that the marina is one of the few in the world where you can “leave your boat open and not have to worry about anybody [who doesn’t have access] getting into your boat.”
Casa de Campo Marina was specifically designed with the mariner in mind according to Fini. “I have always designed my architectural creations and houses [by] relating to my clients, trying to understand their tastes, their backgrounds,” notes Fini. “When you are designing a marina, you have to be able to construct a mental picture of the ideal situation that a [yachtsman] would like to experience, basing your work on his tastes and preferences.” The result? A paradisiacal Mediterranean marina similar to a quaint European fishing village, but on a much larger scale. In the heart of Casa de Campo Marina, the village’s Piazza Portofino is an interesting Mediterranean and Caribbean blend. The village itself brings a distinct European flavor, forming a horseshoe complete with restaurants, cafés and bars, and longer-term residences overlooking the plaza.
Outside the marina, you can explore the rest of Casa de Campo via resort-supplied golf cart. Popular Altos de Chavón, a 16th-century village replica, offers a dramatic view of the Chavón River and part of the Dye Fore golf course (designed by famous golf course architect, Pete Dye). Cobblestone lanes, beautiful fountains, shade trees, and colorful flowers set the tone throughout the village as you pass by art galleries, museums, the Pope John Paul II-consecrated Church of St. Stanislaus, School of Design Altos de Chavón, and the open-air, 5,000-seat, Frank Sinatra-inaugurated amphitheater.
After exploring Altos de Chavón, go to Minitas Beach—a private white sand beach—to windsurf, snorkel, kayak, paddleboard, or just bask in the Caribbean sun. Catch your breath at Beach Club by Le Cirque for lunch or dinner with a relaxing view of the Caribbean Sea. Or, maybe you want to go horseback riding in fields with fantastic mountain views where bulls and buffalo roam freely. Later, enjoy a nice meal at one of the fine restaurants on location, such as Chinois Restaurant, a Pan-Asian bistro in Piazza Portofino. (Try the lemonade!) Of course, there are a number of great dining options throughout Casa de Campo, whether at the marina, near the hotel lobby, in Altos de Chavón, or at La Casita on Paseo del Mar, which features superb Spanish fare.
Make sure you save an evening and return to Altos de Chavón for dancing and live music. Perhaps a local will even teach you how to merengue. As a farewell to the Dominican Republic, I did just that, where I met Javier—who I wanted to adopt as my grandfather immediately. Dressed in black suspenders, a red bow tie, red spats, and red-rimmed fedora, Javier seemed closer to 45 years old than 85. Not one to leave anyone out, he happily—and patiently—danced with two novice ladies at a time, encouraging and praising them with skilled direction and a permanent but genuine smile on his face, eliminating any trepidation merengue beginners might have. (Don’t worry, gentlemen—pretty young women will do the same thing for you, too!)
Between Casa de Campo’s 370-slip marina, stunning architecture, award-winning golf courses, charming Altos de Chavón village, and other endless ways to have your own tropical adventure, you too can live out Mark Twain’s vision to “explore, dream and discover,” as I did, at one of the Caribbean’s foremost luxury resorts.
