Trip Snapshot: Grafton, IL → Paducah, KY (10 Days)
The portion of the loop from Grafton, Illinois, to Paducah, Kentucky, is filled with unique experiences.
Mark Twain said: “Do not put off until tomorrow what can be put off till day-after-tomorrow just as well.”
We took that advice and did NOT put off looping until tomorrow! Our Great American Loop journey began aboard The Mad Horse, a 29-foot Phoenix, powered by dual Volvo Penta diesel engines. Starting July 2, 2024, from Fort Pierce, Florida, we traveled north up the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) making many memorable stops along the way. One of our favorites stops was dropping anchor overnight behind the Statue of Liberty, then traveling up the Hudson to the beginning of the Erie Canal. At the Three Rivers Junction, we turned right to join the Oswego Canal to Lake Ontario, entering Canadian waters to find our way to the Trent-Severn Waterway. The views and locks of this portion are spectacular. Next, we entered Georgian Bay and made our way back to the U.S. and Mackinac Island, Michigan. Our journey continued down Lake Michigan until we entered the Illinois River in downtown Chicago.
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The Great American Loop - Mississipi River
Although we completed the Great American Loop in four months, this portion of the loop adventure was a 10-day journey from Grafton, Illinois, to Paducah, Kentucky. The Mississippi River segment of the Great Loop offers a unique experience, featuring a mix of river currents, undeveloped scenery, and the largest barges you will ever encounter. Cruising on the Mississippi River is a way of reliving your childhood fantasy of being Tom Saywer and Huck Finn.
Start: Grafton Marina (Food, Fuel, AGLCA Discount)
Grafton Marina is located at the junction of the Illinois and Mississippi rivers. This is a great stop for cruisers about to begin their journey down the Mississippi River. It offers clean facilities from food to fuel, keeping the cruiser and boat happy. Another benefit of the Grafton Marina is it offers discounts to America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association (AGLCA) members. If you stay three nights in the marina, a fourth night will be free. The various dining options allow cruisers to experience local cuisines.
Here, the Illinois River fades away in the mighty Mississippi. Close to Grafton, Mel’s Illinois Restaurant offers free dockage for diners.
The Chain of Rocks Bypass
Just north of St. Louis, the Chain of Rocks presents a jaw-dropping experience to cruisers. The jagged rocks can slice the boats like butter, so cruisers must take the bypass canal when passing this region. No attempt must ever be made to cruise through the chain of rocks; they will only worsen the voyage and may lead to ruining the entire journey.
The Great American Loop - St. Louis Highlights
After successfully cruising through the Chain of Rocks Lock, we advanced to St. Louis, crossing under the Martin Luther King Bridge, as the mighty Mississippi is splitting the heart of the city, offering a meeting point to the citizens and cruisers alike. The loop is incomplete without escaping to the bustling city for some moments. On the West Bank of the Mississippi, you pass in the shadows of the 630-foot Gateway Arch. We grabbed the chance to visit the city and witness modern America lying on the rich ancient history.
St. Louis is a perfect destination for travelers as it is packed with museums, restaurants, parks, and picturesque scenery. Famous foods of the city every cruiser must try are: Ted Drewes Frozen Custard, gooey butter cake, Sugarfire Smokehouse pizzas and barbecues. Our Mad Horse rested at the marina while we wandered the city.
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Mandatory Fuel Stop: Hoppies Marina (Kimmswick, MO)
After exploring the lively St. Louis, we continued our journey down the mighty Mississippi. Our next stop was Hoppies Marina in Kimmswick, Missouri, a mandatory fuel stop as the next operating marina is 208 miles away at Paducah, Kentucky. The Mad Horse held 130 gallons of fuel with an average economy of 2.5 miles per gallon giving us an estimated range of 325 miles. We decided to carry extra fuel to ensure we could make it. But, Hoppies isn’t only for fuel. Its serene landscape attracts cruisers to explore nature and famous places in Kimmswick. The small size of Hoppies Marina limits its capacity for docking, so you will definitely want to make a reservation to get a spot. This also is your last chance to enjoy restaurants and grocery stores which are only two miles away.
The city of Kimmswick offers memorable experiences to visitors, including the Strawberry Festival (held every year on June 7-8) and the Apple-Butter Festival (October 25-26).
We left Hoppies before first light on September 2, 2024, to a very thick layer of fog extending upward from the river 50 feet above. Radar was a critical piece of equipment to safely navigate the morning hours.
Long Stretch to Paducah: Anchorages & Currents
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The journey from Hoppies Marina to Paducah is a testament to cruisers. The 208-mile journey without a marina makes it an astounding cruising experience along the Mississippi River, which is covered in forest and wild parks. To explore the wilderness, few anchorages are present along the shores. Kaskaskia River offers camping opportunities to cruisers. Several historic sites are lined on the shores of Mississippi, appealing to history lovers. Many cruisers may want to stay for a while capturing the hidden beauties of the forest. The best part of the route is its diversity of wildlife species. Central Mississippi River is home to more than 870 wildlife species consisting of fish, mussels, mammals, amphibians, and reptiles.
Other anchorage points are Rockwood Island (56 miles away from Hoppies), Little River Diversion Channel, and Boston Bar anchorage (41 miles away from Little River Diversion Channel).
Sights & Side Trips: Shawnee NF, Kaskaskia River, Mounds Site
Before Paducah, we went into Mounds historic site, adjacent to the loop route in Kentucky, home to ancient Mississippi artifacts from AD 1100-1350. It’s a must-visit place for all veterans and young cruisers who have an interest in history.
Paducah is a city with remarkable history offering great sightseeing, restaurants, antique stores, and unique shops.
The crew of The Mad Horse found the Mississippi River segment of the Great American Loop to be the most challenging three days as there are very limited resources, although you will find yourself in some very isolated stretches of water, and the views are spectacular and serene. To finish the Great American Loop is a true nautical accomplishment that most any boater can do. So, add the Great American Loop to your bucket list and don’t put it off till tomorrow!
Key Facts
Route: Grafton, IL → Paducah, KY (Mississippi → Ohio River)
Key stops: Grafton Marina, Chain of Rocks (use canal/lock), St. Louis, Hoppies Marina (fuel), Boston Bar anchorage, Paducah
Fuel planning: ~208 miles Hoppies → Paducah with no marinas; consider jerry cans
Currents: Favorable down the Mississippi; stronger up-bound on the Ohio to Paducah
Navigation: Morning fog common; radar highly recommended
Traffic: Heavy commercial tows; expect debris from prop wash
Anchorages (examples): Kaskaskia River, Rockwood Island, Little River Diversion, Boston Bar
Seasonal notes: Festivals in Kimmswick; museums & food in St. Louis; history & arts in Paducah
Crew tip: Reserve Hoppies; stock groceries before leaving Kimmswick
People Also Ask:
How long is the Hoppies to Paducah stretch without marinas?
Roughly 208 miles; plan fuel carefully and consider carrying extra jerry cans.
Do I need to run the Chain of Rocks?
No. Use the canal/lock bypass. The rock field is hazardous and should not be attempted.
Where can I anchor between Hoppies and Paducah?
Common options include Kaskaskia River, Rockwood Island, Little River Diversion Channel, and Boston Bar (check current conditions/charts).
What makes Kimmswick a smart stop?
Hoppies Marina is the last reliable fuel before Paducah; restaurants and groceries are nearby—stock up before the 208-mile run.
What should I expect on the Ohio River to Paducah?
A strong head current and heavy tow traffic; debris stirred by prop wash is common—keep a sharp watch and give tows plenty of room.
Any gear tips for morning departures?
Fog is frequent—radar and a fog signal are very helpful, and AIS improves situational awareness with commercial traffic.
-by Susan (Suki) Finnerty and Captain Dave Zmrzel
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