Tides Marine’s Super Stainless cleaner offers simple removal of unsightly rust or staining from stainless steel. The simple brush-on, rinse-off method passivates the surface to prevent further corrosion. The nontoxic, biodegradable gel-based solution is safe for use around other materials on board as well.
See it in action:
MSRP $27.50 (16 oz.), $37.50 (32 oz.); tidesmarine.com.
As a marine surveyor I’ve often wondered why many boat manufacturers don’t include a deck washdown system as standard equipment. After all, the “stuff” a boat owner has to deal with—from fish blood to the fragrant evidence that Uncle Joe had one too many margaritas last night—is easier to remove sooner rather than later back at the dock, after it has dried to a concrete-like consistency. In addition, rinsing your anchor chain prior to storage not only reduces corrosion (particularly in the case of freshwater washdowns) but also keeps the un-hygienic smell of Davy Jones’ gym locker from permeating the entire boat. Installing a washdown system is easily within the ability of most any DIY’er. Here’s how to make it happen:
Water supply options
Start by planning out your entire installation (hose runs, pump location, power supply, etc.) before drilling holes. Consider the washdown system’s water source. Most are plumbed as a “raw water” system utilizing the water your boat is in. In the case of saltwater fed systems, this means you’ll still want to deal with the salty residue left behind once back at the dock (to avoid corrosion issues), but in my opinion, a salty boat is better than a nasty one any day.
A second option is tapping into the boat’s freshwater system. This will typically limit the amount of water you can use (based on tank size) but does have the advantage of reducing the effects of corrosion on metal components via freshwater washdowns.
A third option is plumbing your system to draw from both. This gives you an unlimited supply of saltwater to power off grime, plus the option of a final freshwater rinse with minimal drain on your potable water supply.
Freshwater washdown systems are plumbed into the freshwater system at some convenient point (possibly near the tank). Raw water systems require either a dedicated thru-hull or connection via a “T” fitting into an existing raw water system hose.
Using an existing thru-hull is the most common route, as most owners tend to shy away from cutting additional holes in their boats. It also has the added benefit of allowing you to complete the installation with the boat in the water by simply shutting the seacock of the raw water system you’re tapping into.
Choosing a pump
Pump selection (and adequate water flow) are the most crucial aspects of the system. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to power off anchor chain crud with a wimpy stream of water. The trick is finding a moderately priced pump that not only provides adequate pressure with minimal power draw but can also stand up to the marine environment.
A typical deck washdown pump’s output pressure ranges from 3-12 GPM (gallons per minute) with prices of $100 or less to over $1,000. Buying a deck washdown package (a kit that includes pump, deck fitting, deck hose, etc.) will often save money. Also, the pump’s warranty can vary from one to three years—the longer coverage period, the better, of course.
Installation considerations
When selecting a location for your washdown pump, choose an accessible area well above where bilge water accumulates. The pump should also be between the water supply and planned deck outlet, ideally as close as possible to its power source to simplify wiring runs. As pumps are more efficient at pushing water than pulling, the location should also be as close as possible to the supply thru-hull or freshwater tank.
Be sure the pump installation itself is in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and that it includes an intake strainer between the pump and water supply in order to prevent pump damage due to debris.
Pumps vary in their ability to self-prime or lift water vertically in order to start pumping. Some are rated at 8-9 feet, while others may only be able to overcome 2 feet of “head” when pumping. Make sure the location you’ve chosen doesn’t exceed the pump’s self-priming ability.
If installing a freshwater-only washdown system, don’t be tempted to simply cut into the system and use your existing freshwater pump. You can do it, but don’t expect too much from such an install. Pumps used in freshwater systems weren’t designed to move large amounts of water quickly and lack the pressure of a good washdown pump. When planning your install you’ll also need to figure out where to locate the deck outlet. Most folks simply mount it on the foredeck (close to the anchor) as cleaning ground tackle is often viewed as its primary job, however there’s no rule saying you have to put it there.
Regardless of where you decide to install the outlet, make sure you have enough space beneath the deck to accommodate the hose and associated fittings and that you won’t be drilling into anything unexpected (wiring or cables) while cutting the mounting hole. Seal the edges of the hole with thickened epoxy when cutting through cored decks (balsa, plywood, etc.) to prevent water intrusion into the core (and rot) later on. Bedding the fitting with a suitable marine caulking will help in this regard as well.
Installation of a pressurized washdown system is an excellent return for a relatively small investment of time and money. Cleanups after raising the anchor will be a cinch, and you’ll find so many other uses for the system—hosing off the dog, rinsing the dingy, giving the kids a bath—you’ll wonder how you ever got along without it.
— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine November 2016
In an effort to keep you from becoming the fodder of such sea stories, here’s the scoop on choosing and installing a boarding ladder on your vessel so that you can safely enter and exit the water from the deck or swim platform. Boarding ladders also make it easier to board a dinghy and assist in retrieval of personnel in a crew overboard (COB) situation in calmer waters.
Boarding ladders should be constructed from non-corroding materials such as plastic, aluminum or stainless steel. Aluminum ladders weigh less and are cheaper, whereas stainless steel ladders are stronger and more durable. Boarding ladders can be fixed or portable and come in a variety of styles. However, for the purpose of this article, we’ll concentrate on three types: Swim step ladders, transom ladders and removable ladders.
Swim step ladders
These are typically mounted to a power boat’s swim platform. However, installation of a swim platform ladder is an option for smaller vessels (those powered by outboards or I/O drives, for example) that typically don’t have space for a full transom platform. Due to their proximity to the water, both units normally require no more than three steps to meet the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) requirement regarding extension into the water. When not in use the ladders can either fold up onto the swim platform itself or telescope out of the way underneath.
Transom ladders
These are hinged units typically found on sailboats. Many ladders are constructed so that they become an integral part of the stern railing or pushpit when raised and secured in place. When lowered, they provide an opening in the stern railing and a means of entering and exiting the water. Transom ladders designed as part of the stern pulpit are generally factory installations, but aftermarket units can often be easily installed depending on the vessel’s transom configuration.
Removable ladders
These units, as opposed to portable ladders, are attached using permanently mounted brackets. These brackets are typically bolted to the gunwales or deck of a vessel and utilize keyhole slots, cotter pins or some similar arrangement that allow them to be easily installed and removed when not in use. Some units are rigid one-piece units, while others are hinged so that they can be folded up rather than removed when not in use. Others still are telescoping or even accordion-style units, which can be adjusted to facilitate boarding a dinghy or fully extended for water entry or exit.
Mounting considerations
ABYC standards state that all boats must have a means of unassisted re-boarding that must be accessible to and deployable by a person in the water. ABYC also calls for each boarding ladder to be able to withstand a vertical downward static load of 400 pounds without permanent deformation in excess of 1/4 inch, and for the top surface of the lowest step to be at least 12 inches below the waterline with the boat in a static floating position. In general, ladders should be located at a spot that makes the vessel easy to board such as the side of a sailboat adjacent to the lifeline. If the ladders are mounted on the stern, they should be installed as far as practical from the propellers.
Installation tips
As with any project, the first step is to thoroughly read and understand the manufacturer’s instructions. Next, visualize the installation and do a “dry run” in order to identify and address potential problems beforehand. Does the location you’ve chosen for the ladder meet manufacturer and ABYC recommendations? Are the mounting hardware and backing plates sufficiently robust, and can they be reached on both sides for tightening?
Ladder installation on a swim platform is typically a straightforward affair. For installations that require drilling into the hull, always verify what’s on the other side before drilling in order to avoid collateral damage to equipment, wire runs or Aunt Martha’s picture. You’ll also want to ensure all mounting hardware is properly bedded with a suitable marine-grade sealant, and that when holes are drilled through any cored portions of the hull or deck, the exposed coring is properly sealed to prevent moisture entry.
Even when properly installed, some of the above ladders may fail to meet the ABYC requirement for easy deployment by a person in the water, particularly those that should be removed and stowed while underway. One possible solution is the installation of an emergency boarding ladder. These units, typically some form of rope ladder utilizing rigid steps, are collapsible, lightweight and can be easily installed on most boats. Most are stored in a canvas bag and deployed by a grab rope hanging just above the waterline.
Rope ladders are convenient emergency ladders due to their compactness and flexibility. However, they’re harder to climb than rigid units, making them less than ideal as primary boarding ladders. If installed, it’s always a good idea to test deployment and ease of use in calm waters before they’re actually needed. One trick that can make them easier to board is weighting the lowest rung of the ladder to ensure it fully extends when deployed. Finally, while many cruisers likely plan on using their boarding ladders during a COB recovery situation, preparation should include various scenarios such as recovery of an incapacitated victim. It’s crucial that COB and recovery drills are not only understood by all on board but also practiced on a regular basis. They should also include captain and crew role reversals, to ensure recovery can take place if the captain or crew is incapacitated.
— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine December 2016
Dropping anchor in a beautiful cove is often the goal of cruisers, who seek and set sail for stunning destinations only accessed by water. To aid anchor deployment and retrieval, most cruising vessels are equipped with a windlass, and power options include manual, electric or hydraulic. Installing a windlass can aid a cruiser for years to come.
The electrically powered windlass is the type most often used on cruisers. Vertical windlass designs have the electric motor and rope/chain gypsy (the chain wheel that the chain and rope roll up on) installed in a compartment just below deck on the bow, while horizontal designs have the entire lifting assembly mounted on the bow and covered for protection. An electric windlass allows the anchor line to pay out at a controlled speed as you deploy your anchor. When you’re ready to haul the anchor up, you hit the switch and the electric motor hauls in your chain and anchor.
Windlass technology does not change quickly, yet there have been advancements in metallurgic compounds and motor and gearbox designs. For example, Anchorlift uses AISI 316L-grade solid stainless steel for the production of all of its models and accessories. John Lynch, Anchorlift general manager, explains why. “The reason is durability and stability of the material. AISI 316L stainless steel is the best available, and we don’t use nylon, aluminum or plastic because we feel these reduce performance and compromise the durability of the windlass.”
Other leading windlass manufacturers include Lewmar, Maxwell Marine and Quick Nautical Equipment. Windlass selection is based on three criteria: vessel size, vessel weight and anchor size. “These all go into the science of selecting the appropriate windlass for the boat, because it’s not just the windlass that is needed,” Lynch explains. “You need to have the correct bow roller for the style anchor that is used, and the anchor design affects this as well as the position of the windlass, whether it is deck-mounted or thru-hull.”
Boat owners also need to utilize the correct rode kit, which is determined by the gypsy size in the windlass, how deep you normally anchor, the size of the anchor locker, and your scope ratio (the distance of rode compared with the depth you are in). In addition, whether the boat has a 12v or 24v power system is also a factor.
Lynch says their website was designed to take out the guesswork for customers. “We have an extensive amount of information, photos, drawings, diagrams, comparisons, and specifications available to view and download in order to help make the selection process very easy. Plus we have staff that is always available to answer calls regarding windlass and windlass accessories.”
Maintaining the windlass involves rinsing the windlass with fresh water after a day of use and polishing periodically to keep its shiny luster – especially stainless steel. Boat owners should ensure the unit is properly greased and that no corrosion starts to form on the surfaces of the unit. This includes the motor and gearbox of a vertical windlass that are located below deck, usually in the anchor locker.
“We recommend using an anti-corrosion spray (paraffin based) and spray the entire motor and gearbox thoroughly,” Lynch adds. “Boat owners should periodically check to see if any white powdery material (corrosion) is present. If so, remove it with a wire brush and apply more anti-corrosion spray. The anchor locker is a harsh environment and gets very wet when the rode (anchor rope and chain) whips around in there when the windlass is in use. This creates a very unfriendly environment for materials that can corrode.”
Regardless of the manufacturer and model installed, user error can still happen on the water. For example, a windlass should never be used to haul the seabed to the boat, or drag the boat to the anchor. This can cause damage to the windlass such as a bent shaft or damage to the vessel itself.
“The only way to avoid any mistakes is to follow the manufacturer’s recommended use of the product,” Lynch says. “If you have never used a windlass before, there are blogs, websites and, of course, your local marina staff that will help you decide which is right for you and how to properly use it. We also strongly suggest professional installation of the windlass and its accessories. Although they look easy to install, it can become quite involved and frustrating once you get into it.”
Anchorlift’s Anchor Turner Kit also helps boat owners avoid problems with twisting anchors when they’re retracted. It includes an anchor connector swivel and anchor turner, which helps the anchor park correctly in the bow roller rather than upside down.
INFORMATION:
anchorlift.com
— By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating Magazine November 2016
