A Southern Boating Magazine Supplement: Annual Haul Out Guide
Our annual haul out guide has everything you need to know about planning your boat’s maintenance. From new system installation to surprise costs and product reviews, Southern Boating is your number one resource for planning a trip to the yard.
Our annual Haul Out Guide is a reader favorite and now we’re sharing the valuable info.
The 2019 guide covers fire suppression systems, potable water, windlass advice and much more. Read the 2019 articles here, or download the entire guide below.
Below is our archive of printable/downloadable Haul Out Guides. Take it with you to the boatyard, your backyard or wherever you work on your boat.
Questions? Comments? What are your tips and comments about getting work done? Let us know and you could be featured on our website! Tell us your best with your best haul out stories in the comments.
Most modern marine equipment has evolved to require much less power. When you’re in the boatyard this spring, do more with less and cut down on amp usage.
Radar
Arguably, you use radar under way when your engines are running, so who really cares how much power it’s using?
On the other hand, if your electronics suite is due for an upgrade, consider a more efficient unit. In standby mode, radar doesn’t draw much, but when it’s transmitting, the power needs are quite high. Consider one of the new units like the Simrad Halo that comes with either open or closed array antennas. This solid-state, pulse compression radar delivers a mix of close-in and long-range detection and excellent target definition with low clutter.
It has five modes to help process a variety of targets and a range from 48 to 72 nautical miles. The Halo is available for both 24- and 12-volt applications and an added bonus is its ultra-low electromagnetic and radiation emissions.
That means you can put one on the flybridge with you and not worry too much about scrambling your brain when the radar is running.
Climate Control
Air conditioners create the greatest energy loads aboard, and chances are the older your system, the more power it takes. New units from companies like Dometic are smaller,
self-contained and quieter with vibration-isolation mounts. Their high-efficiency rotary and scroll blowers use fewer amps and notably reduce fatiguing sound. Italian company Termodinamica (TMD) offers 24-volt DC units that don’t even need a genset. Made with titanium heat exchangers, the TMD units touts a power consumption rate that’s 50 percent lower than other comparably sized units on the market. Many air conditioners today also have an ECO mode where they ramp down if they are running off of batteries, via an inverter, and the battery voltage starts to fall. Adding window shades and tinted glass will also relieve the pressure on air conditioners and may even help refresh your interior design.
Refrigeration
The fridge also is a major power hog. Refrigerator efficiency has to do with the type
of unit (air, water or keel-cooled) and the quality of insulation around the box.
Frigoboat has highly efficient fridges in both 12- and 24-volt applications with refrigerator, freezer or combo solutions.
Their unique keel-cooled system is reliable, efficient and quiet with no pump or fan to create noise, and it doesn’t need winterizing. Check the age and condition of your insulation, too, or just tear out the old stuff and install some stainless steel drawers that will also upgrade the boat’s aesthetics.
Isotherm offers plug-and-play solutions with their cabinet refrigerators powered by 12/24-volt Danfoss compressors. These units feature extra thick, but still compact, insulation so the boxes stay cold with less power. They even have stand-alone, plug-in coolers for use on deck so you can keep your beverages nearby and not have to open the galley refrigerator as much.
These Travel Boxes also have ECO modes to slow the compressor once the food and drinks are already chilled.
Lighting
Most new boats now come standard with interior and exterior LED lighting, but if your vessel is of an older vintage, it would be worth swapping out your deck, salon and galley lights for new ones that draw less power. Imtra offers a variety of fixtures to help you upgrade the look of your interior including courtesy lights that create an impressive ambiance. As design trends move from direct to indirect lighting, options migrate from
down and spotlights to strip and rope lighting hidden behind valences and under furniture.
Evolved whites in LED options are now available, so it’s not hard to create a warm glow.
Efficient lights include navigation or running lights like those by Attwood, Perko, LopoLight, and Aqua Signal. You’ll save a few amps with an LED anchor light that you forget to turn off.
Finally, don’t forget those power-hogging heat generators below the waterline. Underwater lights are known as large consumers of power. New developments in optical design, thermal management, and marinized electrical components have created lights that are brighter and use less power.
Lumishore’s thru-hull and surface mount, full-color cycling lights can replace older lights and provide better color while they use less power, and they can even be paired with
sound to “dance” to music. That’s worth the price of admission alone.
Battery Efficiency
Finally, efficiency comes down to the size, quality, and type of your battery bank. Charging with a genset is more efficient than charging with the engines and alternators, but a good battery bank is also important to your onboard power equation. The better the efficiency of a battery, the higher its charge acceptance rate, which is the amount of energy that can be pumped into a battery in a given period. Wet cells are about 60 percent efficient, gel cells 75 percent and AGMs 85 percent.
AGMs, especially any of the thin plate, pure lead (TPPL) variants, also have the highest charge acceptance rate, so they will optimize system performance. How you charge is also important. Charging cool batteries quickly is most efficient. For banks that are especially depleted, it may be best to charge with engines and the genset simultaneously. As batteries heat up during charging, it takes longer to get that last percent of charge pushed in despite the genset running just as hard as in the beginning.
These are just a few ideas on how you can save power and thereby burn less fuel and shrink your carbon footprint. Some of these are bigger projects, while others are a matter of just upgrading aging equipment. Chances are that some of these systems will pay for themselves down the road in operation costs, fuel and wear and tear on your engines or genset.
When you have to install thru-hull holes, do it right the first time.
Most any boat maintenance guru worth his Veda will advise you to avoid adding additional
thru-hull holes if at all possible. Tapping into an existing discharge or intake thru-hull is often recommended but may not always be an option. While drilling a hole in your boat’s hull is not ideal, the actual process to install a new thru-hull is pretty straightforward.
Let’s walk through a hypothetical installation of an air conditioning system that requires two new thru-hulls, one that’s below the waterline intake and the other above the waterline discharge.
Preparation
American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) standards call for the installation of a seacock on thru-hulls located below the vessel’s maximum heeled waterline. For the purpose of this
article, we’ll say the discharge thru-hull does not require a seacock; however, the raw water intake thru-hull (located below the waterline) does.
The discharge thru-hull for our example will be bronze. The seacock will be a typical flanged bronze unit with a compatible bronze thru-hull, although Marelon polymer seacocks and thru-hulls would be another option. Just keep in mind that the seacock and thru-hull must always be of the same material.
When planning the installation, choose a location that provides good access to the thru-hull. For our intake thru-hull, verify that the seacock can be accessed quickly in the event of an emergency and that the handle can be fully operated (i.e., no frames, bulkheads, etc., that block the throw of the handle).
In addition, avoid locating the thru-hull in front of a depth transducer or knot log, both of which could be affected by the turbulence a thru-hull generates. Once you’ve identified a suitable location, mark the center of the thru-hull and drill a small pilot hole from inside the vessel. This gives you one last chance to check the location on the outside of the hull to verify all is well prior to cutting the hole.
Hole saw time
Select a hole saw the same diameter or slightly larger than your thru-hull, one with a pilot drill bit, which prevents the hole saw from walking when drilling. Using the small location hole you drilled as a guide, start drilling from the outside of the hull and be sure to keep the drill perpendicular to the hull surface. Drill until the pilot bit of the hole saw penetrates the hull, then move inside and finish drilling the hole. Smooth any rough edges of the hole with sandpaper.
For a cored hull, excavate the coring around the hole to a depth that encompasses an area at least as large as the thru-hull or seacock flange. Then fill the void with thickened
epoxy and allow it to cure before proceeding. This epoxy compression ring provides a solid base for the thru-hull and prevents water from entering the core.
Backing plates
A backing plate provides additional support to the hull and a flat mounting surface for the thru-hull nut or seacock flange should there be any hull curvature. A fiberglass backing plate glassed into the hull is the ultimate solution, however, marine-grade plywood is commonly used and perfectly acceptable.
Backing plates should be two to three inches larger in diameter than the thru-hull nut or seacock flange. Cut a circular backing plate from ¾-inch marine plywood, then drill
a hole in the center with the hole saw used to drill the thru-hull hole in the hull. Use a sander or wood rasp to shape the backing plate as needed to match the curvature of the hull. Once fitted, mark the backing plate so you can properly orient it later.
Test run
Always dry fit the thru-hull/seacock prior to final installation. Remove the backing nut and insert the discharge thru-hull from the outside. On the inside, fit the backing plate over it,
then install and snug up the flange nut. The intake thru-hull will screw directly into the seacock. Remove the thru-hull nut, insert the thru-hull into the hull, fit the backing plate, thread the seacock onto the thru-hull, and tighten until snug.
For bronze thru-hulls, a special tool called a step wrench is used to grip the ears inside the unit and hold it securely during tightening. A wedge of plywood inserted in the thru-hull also works well in a pinch.
WHEN IS A SEACOCK NOT A SEACOCK?
Many builders utilize inline valves attached directly to the thru-hull. However, there are a number of problems associated with this approach. To start with, in-line valves use NPT (National Pipe Taper) threads, which are not compatible with the NPS (National Pipe Straight) used in most thru-hull fittings (unless the thru-hull fitting is machined with “combination thread”).
Installing an in-line valve onto an NPS thru-hull fitting creates a mismatch of threads resulting in a weaker, less waterproof joint (due to less thread engagement). As it has no mounting flange, an in-line valve can turn or loosen from the thru-hull fitting due to vibration or through normal use. Finally, unlike proper seacocks, in-line valves are not fitted with grease nipples, bonding wire tabs or drains, each of which can create potential maintenance and winterization issues.
Once inserted into the seacock and moderately tightened, there should be a sufficient length of thru-hull inside the seacock but not enough that the thru-hull bottoms out.
If the thru-hull is too long, cut it to length. If the thru-hull is too short, use thinner plywood (½ inch, for example) to construct the backing plate. Most flanged seacocks have three mounting holes to prevent the seacock from turning once installed. There are two acceptable methods to secure the seacock. The first is to drill holes through the backing plate and hull (using the flange as a guide), then install bolts through the hull and secure everything together.
The second is to screw the seacock flange to the backing plate only. This is the option we’ll go with for our example. Regardless of the method chosen, ensure the mounting bolts or screws are of the same material as the seacock. Either stainless steel or bronze is acceptable when mounting nylon seacocks.
Installation
Once the dry fit is complete, disassemble everything and seal both backing plates with three to four coats of epoxy and allow to dry. You’ll need a second set of hands to hold the thru-hull in place during installation and while tightening. Apply a generous amount of marine-grade sealant (polyurethane or polysulfide) to the thru-hulls mushroom
flange, then insert it into the hull.
On the inside, apply sealant to the hull (around the inserted thru-hull) and hull side of the backing plate. Slide the backing plate over the thru-hull, orient as required and press down, bedding it to the hull.
For our discharge thru-hull, the next step is to add a thick bead of sealant to the top of the backing plate hole around the thru-hull, install the thru-hull nut and tighten snugly. You should see a ring of sealant ooze from beneath the thru-hull nut. For the intake thru-hull, apply sealant to the seacock’s flange (again, enough to see “squeeze out” all around once tightened), and then thread the seacock onto the thru-hull and tighten.
Once the seacock is properly positioned and tightened, use the flange as a template to drill the mounting holes into the backing plate. Be sure to drill into the backing plate only,
not into the hull (use a drill stop or piece of tape attached to the bit to prevent this). Clean the mounting holes of debris, add sealant to the holes and threads of the mounting screws, then install.
Once the installation is finished, fit the seacock with an appropriately sized tailpiece/hose barb (using thread sealant) and attach the cooling system intake hose to it. Attach the air
conditioning discharge hose to the hose barb of the overboard thru-hull, and it’s pa’u hana!
Regular dock maintenance will keep it safe for your boat and guests.
It wouldn’t be wrong to say every boat owner has at least an ounce of pride in their vessel no matter its condition, with most taking great strides to make sure it’s cared for
and in good shape. No one wants to miss the opportunity to get out on the water when the time is right. In addition to keeping the boat up to snuff, the same goes for its home port: the dock.
If you’re lucky enough to own your own dock or even if you rent one, it’s important to maintain the structure and add features that protect both the boat and those who
walk on it.
Inspect it
Safety should always be at the forefront. Each time you walk the dock, look at it with an eye for imperfection. Look for nails or screws backing out of wood planks and for loose and rotting boards. You don’t want the kids or guests to trip and fall or catch splinters in their feet.
Is there anything missing? Take a look at the structure both above and below the waterline. Are fasteners, bolts, nuts, and cross beams solid? When you jerk the dock, does it feel like the pilings are loose? Are lashing straps tight around the floating platform? If you think “I should fix that,” then don’t wait. Plan to do it as soon as possible.
Keep it clean
Besides keeping your dock clear of debris, toys and loose gear, clean it. A stiff scrub brush with biodegradable soap or environmentally safe cleaning solutions like baking soda paste are usually effective, but a pressure washer makes the job easier. Remember that using a pressure washer can “burn” the wood if the spray nozzle is too close. Afterward, the wood will be softer and splinters will appear, so take a sander to the boards and smooth out the rough spots. Also, take time to sand out any rust spots on steel parts or supports.
Don’t forget to remove growth as well. Barnacles and other creatures, as well as plants, cause damage that can’t be seen until they’re removed. A putty knife usually does the trick, but scrub the area with an abrasive pad after removal to make sure.
Fix it
Don’t wait to make repairs. Murphy’s Law will find its way, and covering the dock with carpet or such only hides what will continue to get worse and cost more later. If there are damaged areas in a wood dock, use marine putty or wood filler to repair holes or splits. Replace screws or nails if they’re backing out, and if they are, evaluate if the board needs to be replaced. It doesn’t matter how much the dock is used; hardware will loosen and rust with weather, so regular dock maintenance is important. Lubricate moving pieces such as chains, and replace rusted parts when necessary.
Seal it
Wood docks, in particular, are vulnerable to the marine environment through moisture, sun and changing temperatures, so use only treated lumber. Once the dock is cleaned, repaired and sanded, apply a waterproof sealant that is environmentally friendly. There are sealants available that are low volatile organic compounds (VOC), but check local regulations before applying. If you remove the dock during the winter, allow the sealant to completely dry before installation.
Dress it up
Now that the dock is clean, safe and secure, trim the dock with a few accessories. Protect the boat from accidental bumps by attaching dock bumpers and rub rails. The areas that cause the most damage are the corners, and bumpers come in a variety of configurations and lengths as well as materials. They mount in a number of ways from along the
sides, corners, flush with the top, around pilings, and more.
Another safety feature is to add lights. “Docks and seawalls can be precarious and dangerous areas, and any additional lighting is beneficial for accident prevention,” says
Mick McDonald of Lumitec. “Lighting adds an additional level of security to your property to help protect expensive investments.” Lights also add ambiance to your dock and property and attract marine life to watch on a warm summer evening.
Chances are, your dock is used for a variety of activities as well as a place to store gear. If you inspect it regularly and keep it solid, clean and safe, it’ll be the perfect home for your boat and a great place to hang out for many seasons to come.
While once the domain of larger yachts, today’s well-engineered and dependable watermakers have trickled down in both size and affordability.
Now that you have decided to purchase your new boat or contemplated an overdue retrofit, you just need to identify what you can and cannot do without.
Easier said than done. Practicality is not the province of a boat owner (a reason you initially partook in the lifestyle). However, should you find yourself taking long weekends away from your home dock or cruising in search of new horizons, you may want to think about installing a watermaker. But before we dive into several systems from a variety of manufacturers, let’s take a look at how they work.
Under Pressure
If you still remember some of your high school science facts, you might manage to dredge up something about semipermeable membranes and the process of reverse osmosis. The former is a structure allowing certain molecules—for our discussion, water particles—to pass through but not others. The latter is the actual procedure.
To boil things down then, watermakers take in salt water and, under pressure of about +/-800 psi, force it through a semi-permeable membrane. The result on the other side is the fresh water molecules. Everything else (contaminants) is held back. The impurities are then pumped overboard, and a new measure of salt water is introduced. In the end, about 10 percent of the original amount is retained. This last fact will be important to help you select the right unit to fit your needs in terms of how much water you actually require.
“As you operate a watermaker while underway or dockside and, depending on the kind of water you are running in, you may have to adjust the pressure your particular unit is operating at,” says Greg Newman, the East Coast, Caribbean, and South America sales manager for Parker Hannifin, Sea Recovery’s parent company. “This prevents you from overflowing your system.” In other words, it avoids making more water than you need and putting unwanted stress on the system.
Dialed In
Consider an automated unit to prevent unnecessary trips to the engine room. In fact, a remote touchscreen control panel is definitely the way to go. “You can start it up from this panel and monitor all the functions and even use your iPhone if you have our system connected to the network,” says Dometic’s Ben Koppenhoefer. “Every machine we make can be mounted in a frame-style design and bolted together. Additionally, we can take it apart for remote mounting. This is especially helpful for any new boat options list where the vessel presents limited space. This especially holds true for boat owners who are considering retrofitting as well.”
As the heart of any of these systems are its membranes, and as most manufacturers agree that the pressure limit should be around 850 psi, the flow rate limit comes into
play. “It’s important to know the rate of your particular unit. For example, if you are running your watermaker at 1gpm and you hit your threshold before the 850-psi mark, there is no need to ramp things up as this will put unwanted stress on the membrane,” explains Koppenhoefer. “It all depends on the kind of water you are in, and there is a big difference between brackish and saltwater areas.”
Power Up
The majority of watermakers will require an AC generator for power. With the wide variety, size, and output available, you’ll find a unit for your needs. Maintenance involves two basic actions: changing the oil in the high-pressure pump, usually after 500 hours, and the freshwater flush filter at four-month intervals.
The membranes have longevity—5 to 10 years is expected— but for a complete regimen, follow manufacturer recommendations. “With our units and during general operation, for example, we have auto alarms for dirty pre- and regular filters that will turn the unit off and indicate it’s time for a change,” says Newman. “The system will also divert any dirty water on startup to discharge and keep only the freshest for use aboard.” To keep the membrane from fouling, your system must have an automatic back-flushing mode that will take care of this on a weekly basis.
Today, watermakers are high-tech, sophisticated, safe, and simple. Most are NMEA 2000 compatible, have a touchscreen interface displays or remote controls. With the wide the selection available, it is just a matter of choosing the right one for your needs.
Once your boat is back in the water, don’t undo the good your yard has done by carrying around unnecessary weight in your storage compartments. Do some spring cleaning, empty out the closets and compartments, and get lose onboard weight.
Here’s the skinny on tips to help both your wallet and boat performance. Remember the slogan: Lighter boat = fatter wallet.
What’s the big deal over a few extra pounds? Your body can’t function at peak efficiency when lugging around a keg instead of six-pack abs, and your boat is no different. While the effects of excess weight are bad enough for full displacement hulls, the negative effects are even worse for faster boats with lighter, planing hulls. Boats are designed to perform their best with a specific payload in mind. An overweight boat rides low on her lines. This increases the wetted surface of the hull which, in turn, increases friction between the hull and water and reduces speed and fuel efficiency.
Lose the weight(s)!
Lighten your load.
If it’s time to put your boat on a diet, start to lose onboard weight by going through all cabinets, lockers and storage compartments to see what items you really need on board. The goal here is to ditch the excess weight while maintaining acceptable levels of equipment to maintain safety and comfort. Be realistic, and consider your near future boating plans when reviewing items to keep or purge. There’s no better place to start your boat diet than in the galley. Sure you’ve got enough pots, pans, and gadgets to cook a seven-course meal, but how often have you actually done so? The same thing goes for all those extra cooking supplies, canned goods and that bulk purchase 10-pound bag of sugar that was on sale. Will you actually use them anytime soon?
Books and boats just go together, but rather than maintaining a complete library on board, how about only bringing the ones you’ll need for one trip and keep the rest ashore? Better yet, download them to your iPad or Kindle to save even more weight.
Items that may seem inconsequential weight-wise can add up before you know it. Do you really need two dozen towels, three changes of bed linens, five blankets, and all those throw pillows? Go through your hanging lockers and see what clothes have actually been worn in the past year, and ask yourself if you really need five sun hats.
Next up, take a hard look at your engine and boat spares as well as maintenance items. You’ll want to make sure you have the prudent and proper amount of spares and tools on board, but unless you’re going on an extended cruise, remove those “just in case” duplicates or stock, such as extra oil, spare hardware, and rarely used tools; they can add up to significant weight savings. The same is true for routine maintenance items and cleaning supplies (paints, varnishes, shop vacs, and the like), which would be better stored in a dock box or at home until necessary.
Tanks for the idea.
Another great place to realize some huge onboard weight savings is your vessel’s tankage. You always want to have enough fuel on board, but if you’re doing shorter trips, why take on a full tank of fuel and lug around the extra weight? Buy only as much fuel as needed plus a bit of reserve, and avoid the temptation to burn extra fuel because you have a full tank. It may mean more trips to the fuel dock, but you’ll save money in the long run.
Employ a similar mindset when it comes to your water tanks. A gallon of water weighs more than eight pounds, so why drag around a full tank when you’re only going on a day trip? As any good plumber will tell you, “it ain’t just water that rolls downhill,” so what about that full holding tank? Pumping it after every trip will reduce both weight and unwanted smells.
Coolers and live wells present another opportunity. Why use 100 lbs. of ice if 50 lbs. will do, or why bring a case of sodas if you only drink four or five per trip? Keeping your live well empty unless you actually have bait seems like a no-brainer, but you’d be amazed by what some boat owners unthinkingly do out of sheer habit.
Balance what’s left.
Once you’ve removed all of that excess onboard weight, distribute the remaining gear to best balance the boat. This not only improves the ride but also saves fuel by allowing non-displacement boats to get up on a plane more quickly. Don’t be afraid to ask passengers to shift around to accomplish this, and, if installed, learn how to properly use trim tabs for maximum planing efficiency.
Keep the mindset.
Like any diet, once the weight is off, it’s easy to backslide and start packing it on again, especially when looking at all that empty storage space. Keep that rebound onboard weight gain in check by paying attention to all the stuff that tries to find its way back on board. It’s also a good idea to clean out your storage lockers at the beginning of each season to get rid of stuff you really don’t need. Keep the weight off, and both your boat and your wallet will thank you.
Ditch the parachute.
While not a weight reduction issue, boats with planing hulls can also improve their fuel economy by lowering their Bimini top while running. That big, shady top may be horizontal while at the dock, but it will be angled and act like a huge parachute while underway. Dropping it when running fast on longer trips and then raising it once you reach your destination will significantly improve your boat’s fuel efficiency.
That is the question. The answer is that ground tackle is an essential component to boating.
As you prepare for the change in seasons, don’t forget to inspect a very important safety item—the ground tackle. “There are three safety things on board—a life jacket, fire extinguisher, and anchor,” says John Lynch, COO of Anchorlift in Cape Coral, FL. Lynch advises that when inspecting the anchor (particularly at the weld points) and chain, “Look to see if any of the galvanizations has been corrupted and if any rust has started to form in those areas where the galvanization has disappeared or rubbed off.”
The Skinny on Ground Tackle
Ground tackle that uses a combination of chain and rope can create rust where the rope is connected to the chain. This is because it rubs off the galvanization. Lynch suggests cutting the link attachedto the splice end and to reconnect the rode using a D-connecting link. This would be the only time he recommends using a connecting link and suggests using a thread lock product, such as Loctite, on the screw pin.
Rust is the worst enemy and may initially be cosmetic. A thorough cleaning along with an anti-corrosion coating will provide protection but only temporarily. Use a galvanizing compound spray for galvanized anchors and chain. “Once corrosion starts, you can’t stop it,” says Lynch. The application of a coating doesn’t restore the anchor and chain, nor does the process return the ground tackle to its original strength. If the gear shows signs of pitting or flaking of the metal, or if the links appear thinner in width, then it’s time to replace it.
The Rode
When inspecting the anchor line, look for signs of abrasion, cuts, broken or frayed yarns, variations in strand size or shape, burns, dry rot, and even rust (on nylon). Look closely at splices. “A splice should be eight to ten inches back into itself,” says Lynch. He points out that the splice between rope and chain should be no larger than the link of the chain it’s attaching to. If it’s larger, it can easily jam in the windlass.
If necessary, Lynch recommends replacing the rode with either 8-strand nylon or double braid 8- to 24-plait polyester. “Three-strand nylon is inexpensive. But does not work well in a windlass because it’s slick, more so when wet,” explains Lynch. “Eight-strand nylon has better grip because of the weave, [and] double braid is smooth to the touch, holds up longer in a marine environment and gives terrific grip when going through a gypsy.”
The Windlass
“Windlasses are very forgiving, but they are abused endlessly. A little care pays dividends,” says Jonathan Neeves, published technical writer specializing in anchoring. If the rode or chain is slipping through the gypsy, “Check the clutch cones and make sure they are greased properly,” adds Lynch.
“Check the pressure fingers that provide the pressure put on the chain and rope so it grips going through the gypsy. Those are spring loaded, and sometimes the spring can wear out.” Check the motor and gearbox exterior to make sure no corrosion is forming, check the gearbox oil and check the electrical connections. If there’s corrosion, terminals are loose or wire jackets are compromised, follow Lynch’s directions. “Fix it, don’t patch it,” Lynch recommends. “Replace it.”
“A major issue is that many windlasses are commonly made from a cross-section of metals. The bolts are usually stainless with the castings aluminum,” says Neeves. He suggests checking the original installation, and subsequent servicing that the stainless bolts are isolated from the alloy with some form of protection, such as Duralac.
The Locker
A clean anchor and chain won’t last long if the anchor locker is a mess. “Unblock the drain hole,” says Neeves. “If the locker drain is above the locker base, make sure your chain does not sit in a puddle of water, or worse, mud. … Some muds are anaerobic and will be acidic which will corrode the galvanizing off the chain. Wash the locker out with fresh water as often as possible as it’s commonly full of salt. If sitting in the sun, the perfect condition for accelerated corrosion.”
The anchor system is an important safety feature. Care for ground tackle properly. Remember, it keeps you attached to the seabed floor while fishing, diving or weathering out a storm.
There are overboard pumpout restrictions. Most boaters know this. But many don’t think much about what your boat can discharge into the water, be it gray, black or from the bilge.
Perhaps your annual visit to the boatyard could include the filtration or treatment of one or more of these to keep our oceans and waterways safe and clean from boat discharge.
First, let’s look at gray water, which comes from the galley and shower sump. Unlike commercial vessels, recreational boats aren’t monitored or regulated for gray water discharge. That means you dump soap, shampoo, conditioner, lotion, dish detergent, shaving cream, grease, toothpaste, and phosphates into the water. Although boaters don’t need to deal with it, there are solutions to address the issue.
For example, a Wavebrite filter cleans gray water prior to discharge without the need for a gray-water holding tank. Install a filter, intelligent flow manifold, and pump between a boat’s supply drains and the overboard skin fitting. If your boatyard works with large or commercial vessels, they’ll be able to guide you on the choice of solutions.
Oil, gasoline, and lubricants can collect in the bilge of any size boat. These materials then mix with water and discharge overboard through the bilge pump, and that makes for a
toxic environment. The best solution is to keep your engine well tuned, check fuel lines and hoses regularly for leaks and drips and use an oil-absorbent pad below machinery. To go one step further, you can install an oil/water separator into the bilge discharge line. If you have a large boat, ask your yard for guidance on systems from makers such as Ingersoll Rand or Skimoil.
EPA Input
Finally, there’s the issue of black water or sewage disposal. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the law on the discharge of black water reads “All boats operating in U.S. waters with permanently installed toilets are required by federal law to have on board a Marine Sanitation Device (MSD) that either hold human waste until it can be transferred ashore, or reduces the coliform count to such low levels that discharged sewage poses no public health hazard.” Recreational vessels 65 feet and smaller may use a Type I, II or III MSD. Type I and II are “flow-through” systems that utilize a holding tank for a chemical or biological-based treatment prior to discharge, and Type III utilizes a holding tank or similar device that only allows for pump-out.
Of course, living with holding tanks can be a stinky affair that marine companies have tackled in different ways. One approach is to pump air into the tank to promote the
growth of aerobic bacteria that consumes the odor-producing anaerobic bacteria. Groco’s SweetTank uses a three-watt pump that injects air into the bottom of the holding tank to lower odor. While this method doesn’t treat the sewage for discharge, it does make it easier to live with.
Raritan addressed the problem with their Electro Scan, a U.S.C.G.-approved Type I MSD
that uses electrodes to convert saltwater into a bactericide. Without the use of chemicals, the treated water meets EPA standards for overboard discharge. The 12-volt system has a convenient touchpad interface, is plumbed to one or two heads, and used with electric or manual toilets.
No matter what kind, discharge water is not fun to work with, and the solutions may not be readily available at the chandlery. That’s where your boatyard comes in. The yard will know other alternatives and can take on the plumbing dirty work. Now, you don’t have to worry about what your boat is slyly shedding into our waters.
Other than “Man overboard!” hearing “Fire!” may be the most frightening sound aboard a vessel. So what is the best type of fire suppression system for your boat? And how do they work?
Approximately 90 percent of onboard fires start in the engine room and more than half occur because of electrical wiring issues. A fixed fire suppression system that triggers automatically is your best bet to fight a blaze early when there’s still a good chance of keeping it contained.
Today’s top fire suppression systems use the combination of a fire-suppression system in the engine room and smoke detectors in the enclosed cabins.
Fireboy-Xintex, Sea-Fire, and Kidde are well-known makers of automatic fire suppression equipment for recreational boating and although some are DIY, more complex iterations are best left to boatyards that are savvy in the installation and servicing of these products. Here are five things to know about pre- or custom-engineered fire suppression systems.
1. Determine the space and measure the area you are trying to protect.
Size your system appropriately by measuring total cubic feet. For example, Fireboy systems are available to protect engine rooms and machinery spaces from 25 cubic feet to 17,300 cubic feet. “Pre-engineered systems are available for up to 4,000 cubic feet and should be installed exactly per the manual instructions,” says Keith Larson, vice president of sales and marketing for Fireboy-Xintex. Many extinguisher systems are designed to automatically discharge in 10 seconds whenever the space ambient temperature reaches 175 degrees Fahrenheit, but it’s important to install a manual override, as well.
2. Decide on the suppression agent.
Let’s look at the different kinds of boat fires. Boats carry fuel, batteries, propane, alcohol, wood, plastic, and fabric. When these materials burn, a specific type of chemical agent
fire extinguisher is required to suppress the fire.
Class A (ordinary combustibles) fires are paper, plastic and fiber fires, including cabinets, berths and hatch covers, and synthetic materials such as cushion vinyl, foam and fabric covers and bedding.
“It’s also important to have your passengers aware of what to do if a boat fire does occur,” explains Keith Larson, vice president of sales and marketing for Fireboy-Xintex, a leading marine fire-suppression equipment manufacturer. “A paper, fuel or electrical fire can burn so fast that the boat is gone and your passengers are in danger. What’s more, poisonous smoke can cause people to panic and lead to health problems.”
Class B
Class B (flammable gases/liquids) fires are diesel, gasoline and propane fires and can
quickly ignite the rest of the boat. Shut off the source of the fuel, if possible.
Class C
Class C (electrical equipment) fires are electrical and can start other classes of fires. Attempt to shut down the electricity first, if safe.
For the engine room, it’s best to choose an extinguishing agent that is effective for surface fires of all three types.
The Coast Guard mandates that all boats have a B-I or B-II classification portable fire extinguisher on board. Mount the extinguishers in an accessible position. Remember, a B-I or B-II portable won’t put out a Class A or Class C fire. Upgrade to an ABC classification fire extinguisher; it’s not a huge expense. Fighting a boat fire with a portable extinguisher is a risky endeavor, especially because most fires start in the engine room.
3. Determine the best location for installation.
A fixed automatic fire-suppression system in the engine room and smoke detectors in the living spaces are essential. To determine what you need, measure the square footage of the engine room. If you can’t do it yourself, hire a fire protection professional to measure your space.
Most agent storage tanks can be mounted horizontally or vertically, which is good because space comes at a premium in most engine rooms and also inside the protected space and/or remotely through fixed piping and nozzles.
“Sea-Fire provides design guides for vessel owners which allow them to easily identify the size and type of fire system necessary to protect their vessel’s engine compartment,” says Steve Ellis, Jr., marketing director for Sea-Fire Marine, another leading manufacturer. “Specifying a fixed fire suppression system can be as simple as taking a few measurements. Providing the volume of the engine compartment is all that is necessary to specify a vessel with a fixed fire suppression system.”
4. Determine the necessary peripherals and legal issues.
If the system discharges under way, shut down the engine, generator and bilge blower to stop the motors from sucking in additional oxygen. Larson points out that the U.S.C.G. requires an engine shutdown module and a system status display at the helm. Also, install the manufacturer-supplied bracket to meet U.S.C.G. standards, and don’t forget about required carbon monoxide and smoke detectors.
5. Cost
“For a 50-foot boat, expect a cost of $2,500-3,000,” says Larson. That will depend on the access to the engine room and the complexity of the system. But when you put the cost up against the loss of your boat, or worse, it becomes a small price to pay for peace of mind.
Pre-engineered systems protect spaces up to a specific volume. If an owner can provide the length, width, and height of their engine compartment, an off-the-shelf system can be found at West Marine or through other boat supply stores. A 300-square-foot engine room can be set up for about $1,500, while a 750-square foot space costs around $2,900. An engine shutdown system for diesel-powered boats is an additional cost, but worth it.
Wiring is necessary for both automatic and manual (cable) activation and is usually the most time-consuming part of the job. Don’t install the units near intake vents. That’s where drawn-in air can fuel the fire or cool the system’s temperature-sensitive trigger, potentially causing a delay in discharge. Make sure the system is readily accessible and includes ongoing maintenance, including periodic inspections and testing.
If you’ve ever seen the result of an onboard fire, it’s a terrifying sight. Put a thorough inspection of an existing fire suppression system or the installation of a new one at the top of your list.
How it Works
Fireboy-Xintex and Sea-Fire use clean agents, such as HFC-227ea and 3M Novec 1230. Rated for B and C fires, neither leave a residue after discharge, are environmentally responsible, and safe to human exposure. 3M Novec 1230 offers almost no global warming potential but is slightly more expensive than HFC-227ea. Boat owners should consider using the Novec 1230 because there are no known adverse effects on the environment from the agent, and it’s one the industry is embracing.
After the clean agent releases, wait 15 minutes for the fire to die completely. Then you can open the hatch, allow time for the affected area to clear the air and find out where the fire started.
By Zuzana Prochazka & Doug Thompson Southern Boating
It’s simple: The purpose of bottom paint is to prevent barnacle growth and other evidence of fouling on the boat’s bottom.
However, the paint itself is not designed to last forever. For cruiser-type boats that are used often, an ablative paint that wears off over time is usually the best choice. Today’s paints and anti-corrosion primers are more environmentally friendly than ever, with low volatile organize compounds (VOCs).
The annual haul-out is the perfect time to check the condition of your bottom paint. For well-maintained boats, the bottom-painting procedure is similar for fiberglass, aluminum and steel-hulled boats. The bottom is mechanically sanded to remove any growth, profile work is done, then the ablative paint is applied with either a roller or sprayer.
However, a fiberglass boat that hasn’t been hauled in a few years would probably have blister problems. Steel boats that have been in the water for a few years with no cleaning would likely be suffering from corrosion, as would aluminum boats. Boats with these problems need more preparation work, such as removing the paint down to the substrate and applying a primer/barrier system. The additional time and labor will likely increase the costs.
We got issues
“Hauling out every year to year and a half keeps the bottom clean and makes the boat cheaper to maintain in the long run,” explained Tom Krigger, general manager at Bradford Marine in Fort Lauderdale. Bradford is a full-service yard with 180 employees that can haul-out boats up to 140 feet with a 300-ton Synchrolift. “By not letting the bottom degrade less work has to be done.”
Bottom paint from Interlux, Pettit and Sea Hawk are among the most popular brands used by boat owners in the 40- to 80-foot range.
“New for this year with Interlux is Aqua-One™ Performance Ablative antifouling,” said Matt Anzardo, marketing manager at Interlux. “This is a water-based antifouling and the ablative action wears away when the boat is being used, minimizing paint build up while providing protection.”
Water-based antifouling paints, which can be applied over most antifoulings, are popular because they are easy to apply and clean up.
They’ve got solutions
“Pettit Marine Paint’s focus continues on the rapidly growing Hydrocoat family water-based product line which is our No. 1 seller,” said Don Zabransky, Pettit’s vice president of sales and marketing. “The adoption from both consumers and boatyards has grown drastically over recent years, given the many benefits such as ease of application, environmentally friendly with low VOCs and superior antifouling performance.”
Pettit’s Hydrocoat ECO CopperFree bottom paint has been on the market for more than three seasons. This antifouling paint is a true copolymer ablative, which can be applied in very thin coats resulting in less buildup and drag. Indeed, Pettit recently conducted a survey of Hydrocoat users, which reflected that 98 percent were pleased with its results and plan to use it again.
“There is no reason to change if the paint is working well,” Krigger said. “At Bradford we keep track of what our customers use and work closely with the paint manufacturing reps. The reps know their product lines and what they can and can’t do, as well as what is new.”
Timelines
Some boaters scrub their own hull bottom monthly or quarterly, or hire a diver service to do it. This can extend the time between haul-outs for bottom paintwork but obviously does not address running gear or through-hull maintenance. Also be aware that when a diver cleans the bottom, that diver is cleaning off the paint that protects the bottom.
The proper sanding and removal of old paint and the prep of the bottom is crucial to getting a long-lasting paint job. Paint is normally applied with a roller, although some yards apply paint with a sprayer, especially on larger boats. One coat of paint is normally sufficient for boats that will be hauled annually.
If a hull does need to be stripped down to the substrate, Sea Hawk’s new Tuff Stuff LOW VOC products comply with rigid VOC limits set by the California Air Quality Management Board. Tuff Stuff LOW VOC is effective for blister protection on fiberglass or as a bilge coating because of its resistance to both water and oil. As a universal primer, Tuff Stuff LOW VOC can be used for corrosion protection on most metals below the waterline and for priming any metal surface.
“Tuff Stuff LOW VOC is an extremely high-build two-part epoxy system that dries fast, enabling the application of a complete barrier system and bottom paint to most vessel hulls in just two days saving boat owners time and money while minimizing VOC emissions to preserve air quality,” said Sea Hawk CEO Erik Norrie. “The new Tuff Stuff LOW VOC line is one way in which we provide marine service professionals and do-it-yourselfers the solutions they need to protect and enhance the longevity and performance of their vessels while preserving the air quality for all.”
— By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating Magazine March 2016
Hard work, dedication and patience give boats a second wind and owners a chance to keep cruising the waters at their helm.
Perhaps it’s old age or the aftermath of some misfortunes. Perhaps it’s the yearning for an upgrade or the wish to have something truly unique. Whatever it may be, there comes a time in the life of a boat where a refit is in order. It’s a labor of love that teams boat owners with top-of-the-line shipyards to bring new life to vessels. These are four of their stories.
Asha during her six-month stay at Front Street Shipyard
Hi-Life, a Wilbur 34, sat at its Staten Island dock for 19 days in this condition after Hurricane Sandy. Photo: John and Jean Swedberg
The yard pulled Laissez Faire’s engines and sent them to Billings Marine for a rebuild. Photo: Lyman-Morse Boatbuilding Co Photos
Work on one of the Hinckley’s two Hamilton water jets at Lyman-Morse Boatbuilding Co.
Diva, a Deerfoot 62, with a the new keel waiting to be bolted to the hull at Hodgdon Yacht Services
The Wilbur 34 after refit by Wilbur Yachts
Hi-Life’s engine room filled with mud. Photo: Wilbur Yachts
Ongoing work and refit of Asha during her six-month stay at Front Street Shipyard in preparation for extended cruising. Photo: Front Street Shipyard
Diva, a Deerfoot 62, with a broken keel . Photo: Hodgdon Yacht Services
Hi-Life, a Wilbur 34′ after recover. Photo: Wilbur Yachts
Asha
When Keith Mortensen bought Asha, a 90-foot Palmer Johnson motoryacht in Palm Beach, Florida, in August 2014, he knew what he wanted. An experienced cruiser, he had taken his 73-foot Outer Reef up and down the East Coast and from The Bahamas to the Canadian Maritimes. Now he was looking for an even larger yacht for longer voyages. Asha seemed just right. In fact, she had already gone around the world. “It was a proven bluewater boat,” Mortensen said.
But Asha, built in 1992, was also in need of a refit. “She was fine if we just wanted a marina queen,” Mortensen said. “But we wanted an expedition yacht. We use the boat.” Mortensen had heard about the major refit that Front Street Shipyard in Belfast, Maine had completed three years ago on Stoneface, a 106-foot Burger built in 1978, and he made some phone calls. Soon, he, too, was headed for Front Street.
Front Street was founded in 2011 by four experienced Maine builders under JB Turner, formerly of Lyman-Morse, on a six-acre property with 1,500 feet of waterfront in downtown Belfast. The yard has grown to become one of the largest yacht facilities in New England, with 110 workers, a 485-ton hoist, a 165-ton Travelift, and the capacity to work on yachts up to 200 feet. In 2013, the Boat Builders and Repairers Association named Front Street the Boatyard of the Year. A custom builder, boatyard, marina, and service facility, Front Street has the capability to do everything—composites, carpentry, metalwork, coating, finishes, fabrication…whatever—which was very appealing to Mortensen.
To prepare Asha for extended cruising, the yard replaced all the hydraulic fittings and hoses, refurbished the shafts, flexible couplings and props, added a stern thruster, rebuilt every single pump, rewired the electrical panel, cleaned and recoated the water tanks, upgraded the electronics, and added redundant systems. To make living aboard more pleasant, Front Street put in a new teak and holly sole in the galley, built a new set of teak spiral stairs, installed new granite countertops in the galley and the master head, new stonework in both showers, a heated tile floor in the master head, varnished the wood headboard and countertops in the owner’s cabin, and updated the appliances.
Asha was at Front Street for six months, and Mortensen drove up from Portsmouth, New Hampshire, every week. “When it was all done, I actually was sorry to be leaving the yard,” he said. “That’s the highest compliment I can give. And the quality of all the work is phenomenal. The boat’s beautiful.”
His advice for other owners thinking of a refit? “Plan on spending more than you think. When you start tearing things apart you don’t know what you’re going to find. But building a new boat from scratch would be far more expensive and it would take at least two years. A refit is faster and less expensive.”
It’s hard to think about ordering a major refit for a Hinckley. After all, Hinckleys are pretty nice to begin with. But even Hinckleys get old, and after a while an owner might want to update things a bit.
The owner of Laissez Faire, a Hinckley Talaria 40, knew just what he wanted: a boat that didn’t look like and that would be faster than any other Hinckley. The experienced owner knew just where to go: Lyman-Morse Boatbuilding Co. in Thomaston, Maine. Lyman had taken care of all his other boats and had repainted Laissez Faire’s hull a head-turning Awlgrip Vivid Red, with a double white boot stripe in the spring of 2014. But the owner uses his boats, and he wanted to take longer cruises on the Hinckley, perhaps up to the St. Lawrence and the Down East Loop, so he entrusted Lyman with a complete refit.
On the waterfront at the protected top of the St. George River, Lyman-Morse is a well-established Maine stronghold that can do everything from new builds to refits including fabrication, painting, carpentry—just about anything you’d need. With Laissez Faire, the owner’s charge was to upgrade the boat mechanically “from soup to nuts,” said Ted Smith, the Lyman-Morse service manager.
The boat was built in 2004, and its twin 440-hp Yanmar diesels had 1,000 hours. “I was worried about the engines running into some issues,” the owner said. “Age wears parts like belts, hoses, fluids, and filters. When that occurs there may be mechanical areas of the engines which suffer but go undetected until they fail.” He also wanted to add 3 knots to the boat’s top speed of 33 knots.
The yard sent the engines to Billings Marine for a rebuild and servicing. Lyman installed larger fuel lines from the tanks to the engines to add rpm. While the engines were out, Lyman gel-coated the bilge, rebuilt the drive shafts, upgraded the air conditioning system, sprayed Micron Extra finish (used mainly on race boats) on the bottom, serviced the Hamilton water jets, repainted the engine boxes, rebuilt the black water system, took all the hardware off the boat for refreshing, installed new vinyl, and put LED lights under the cockpit coaming.
For his part, the owner is more than happy with the results. The boat hit 35.9 knots when it left the yard. “The people at Lyman have always displayed an unlimited degree of expertise and they take huge pride in their work,” he said. “They do a fantastic job.” His advice for other owners? “Get a great yard who you trust to do the work. And don’t cut any corners on the refit. The biggest costs have already been spent anyway, so in the long run you are only hurting yourself.”
Lyman-Morse Boatbuilding Co. Thomaston, Maine
(207) 354-6904; lymanmorse.com
Hi-Life
To a large degree, what happened to Hi-Life, a Wilbur 34, represents every boat owner’s worst nightmare. In the midst of Hurricane Sandy, Hi-Life sank at its dock in Staten Island, New York, its bow pointing up in the air, its stern submerged, resting on the hulls of two other boats that had sunk first.
“It was as dismal a sight as you’d ever want to see,” said John Swedberg, who had bought Hi-Life six years earlier. “The water was muddy and the engine room was awful. The boat sat there for 19 days before it was cleared away. The insurance company declared it a total loss.”
Swedberg and his wife Jean didn’t want to walk away from boating. He had just sold the marina where they kept the boat a few years earlier and had planned to use the Wilber as their retirement boat to fish for stripers and cruise the Jersey Shore and Long Island Sound. And they loved Hi-Life, a classic 1996 Wilbur 34 Downeaster soft-top express with a single 350-hp 3116 Cat diesel. “It was in impeccable shape,” Swedberg said. They could have used the insurance money to buy a new boat, but what they wanted was their old boat put back together again, so they bought Hi-Life back from the insurance company.
The Swedbergs had already attended a Wilbur owners’ rendezvous at the factory in Southwest Harbor, Maine, where they had met Wilbur president John Kachmar, his wife Ingrid, and his father-in-law Lee Wilbur, who started the company in 1979. “I liked all the Wilbur people,” Swedberg said. “I know they build great boats.” In fact, the 34 is Wilbur’s most popular boat having built 71 of them to date.
“The biggest challenge was where to begin,” Kachmar said. The mud and exterior damage was extensive. Just looking in the engine room was a bit overwhelming at first. Every wire, pump and piece of insulation had to come out so we could start fresh. It actually was a fun project once we got the mud out of it.”
The Swedbergs drove up to the factory three times while Hi-Life was being rebuilt. “We loved being part of the process,” Swedberg said. Once they did get the mud out, Wilbur put in new equipment, including a 460-hp Cat C7, tanks, transom, hoses, shaft, prop, canvas, batteries, Awlgrip for the hull, varnish, bulkhead in the engine room, soundproofing, electric panel, and the work list goes on. When the factory was done, Kachmar drove the boat down to Staten Island to deliver it personally to the Swedbergs, who were delighted. “It’s better than when we bought it. John Kachmar has been wonderful to us,” Swedberg said. The day I spoke with the Swedbergs, they had just returned from a Florida vacation and planned to take High-Life out the next day fishing for stripers.
Wilbur Yachts Southwest Harbor, Maine
(207) 244-5000; wilburyachts.com
Diva
Chris Ware certainly knew what he was getting into when he bought Diva, a Deerfoot 62, in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, in November 2012. He’s been sailing since he was five, comes from a sailing family and his uncle is a surveyor. “He went all over the boat,” Ware says. “He even put a camera in the keel.” He found problems, but it wasn’t until Ware and his wife Jenn sailed Diva back home to the Boston area and pulled her out of the water that they realized how bad the problems had become. There was a one-inch hole in the bilge. Time for a refit.
A fast, flush-deck performance cruiser with a long waterline and fairly narrow beam, Diva had already completed a three-year circumnavigation. Launched in 1986, she was one of four Deerfoot 62s built at the Scania yard in Finland. Two had stainless steel keels; two (including Diva) had mild steel keels. The Deerfoot line was conceived by Steve Dashew; Diva was designed by Ulf Rogeberg of Denmark. Ware learned that Diva’s mild steel keel sister ship had already been repaired by Hodgdon Yacht Services in Southport, Maine, just outside Boothbay Harbor. “They knew the boat,” Ware said, “so we had a level of comfort. Plus we saw the capabilities and the scope of the yard.”
Hodgdon is indeed capable. Founded in 1816, it claims to be the oldest boat builder in the U.S. and has built everything from tenders to megayachts. In June 2014, it took over the Boothbay Region Boatyard in Southport and Wotton’s Wharf in Boothbay Harbor and added them to its existing shipyard to East Boothbay. A new division, Hodgdon Yacht Services at the Southport yard, expanded into the refit and service business. Sandy Spaulding, the former president of Hinckley Yachts, now runs it.
“Diva was a big and complicated project,” Spaulding said. “We had to ship the lead for the keel from Massachusetts and work with the naval architect in Denmark, and give the boat a major systems upgrade.” John Vinal, service manager for Hodgdon Yacht Services, explained that the keel had developed corrosion, which affected the fuel and water systems. Rogeberg designed a stainless steel replacement keel to keep fuel and water in the casing but moved the 10,000 pounds of lead ballast outside of it, a complex process. “With plumbing fittings for the fuel and water system on top of the keel’s casing, there was a total of 63 through-hull penetrations that had to line up to lower the hull onto the casing,” Vinal said and added that nearly every system on the boat received some sort of maintenance work. Hodgdon also added 1,000 amp hours to the battery bank, peeled the whole bottom to reduce condensation and spruced up the rigging.
Once Hodgdon was done, the Wares sailed Diva back to Massachusetts at the end of May, ready for summer cruising. “But this is just stage three of a five-stage project,” Ware said. Next up is an engine refit and after that the interior.
