Sometimes, getting a fish in the boat is only half the battle.
Have you ever accidentally dropped a keeper fish over the gunwale before you could get it in the cooler? It happens to the best of us, but especially to beginning anglers still getting comfortable handling the different body shapes and attitudes fish species can sport. Consider, for example, long, thin Spanish mackerel compared to muscular striped bass or redfish, the compact physique of a porgy or sheepshead, stout body of tautog and, of course, the flat profile of flounder which often gives newbies the fits.
Gripping fish becomes second nature with a little experience, but even experts have a few slip from their hands now and then. Often, escapees simply miss the cooler and land on deck, but with a little ill timing one might just as easily bang off the gunwale and back into the drink. That’s no big deal when a pile of fillets is already assured, but it can be tough when the day’s only potential keeper, a true lunker, or child’s first fish is the culprit.
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Sometimes getting a fish into the boat is only half the battle even if you use a net or fish grip because you’ll still need to wrestle your quarry free from the hook and convince it to enter the cooler or quietly depart to fight again another day. This might not be so tough were it not for the simple truth that some captives shun capitulation.
Following are three basic grips that work well with particular fish body types and characteristics. Keep in mind that any fish destined for release will do best if handled gently but firmly—and as little as possible. Wet your hands before handling any fish, do not use rags as they can remove a fish’s protective slime, and try to avoid placing on deck anything you plan to release. Lastly, consider purchasing a handheld mechanical fish gripper. These are inexpensive, work for most fish species toothy or not, and some models can incorporate a fish scale.
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Handling Fish - Top 3 Grips
Lip Grip
This grip is great for calming soft-mouthed species lacking significant dentures. Grasp the fish with your thumb pressing firmly on the inside of its lower lip and your index finger, or several fingers, pressing up into the pocket under the lip. Now bend the lip downward as you lift the fish straight up. For larger fish, use your free hand to support the belly area as you lift. Most toothless fish are immediately immobilized by this grasp which works especially well with school stripers, small to mid-sized snook, black sea bass, and sea robins. Always check to see if an unfamiliar fish has teeth before using this grip. If any are visible, choose another approach.
Over the Shoulder
This grip is great for controlling long-bodied, toothy species. Position your hand behind the head and firmly grasp down with your thumb and fingers at a point near the top back of the gill plates. There is an area here where you can feel the plates depress. Squeeze firmly, being careful not to crush any fish that you plan to release.
This grip works with weakfish, sea trout, blackfish, porgies, sheepshead, and juvenile bluefish, among others. For fish with bony projections around the gill plates, such as sea robins, position your fingers over the front of the spikes to avoid getting pricked. Ditto when handling fish with sharp dorsal spines, like scup. Avoid this grip with snook and other species that have sharp-edged gill plates.
Flatfish Grip
Due to their unusual body shape, southern flounder and summer flounder (fluke) are especially difficult for novice anglers to control. They can, however, be easily tamed with this simple grip. With the fish laying dark side up and head pointed away from you, use your right hand to grasp it right behind the gills. Your thumb should be on the dark side and your remaining fingers underneath on the light side. Squeeze tight to compress the gill flaps at their base as in the over-the-shoulder hold.
-by Tom Schlichter
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