Monthly Regional Reports for the Caribbean are posted the first week of each month so you’ll find the best of the Caribbean! The Caribbean islands offer an array of experiences for boaters. From unique cultures in St. Maarten to world-renowned diving in Belize, the region has it all. Southern Boating’s articles provide helpful insight into traveling the Caribbean by boat—including features on regions such as: Puerto Rico, Antigua, Belize, Grenada, St. Maarten, the British Virgin Islands, Aruba, St. Lucia and more. Monthly updates include news about events, fishing tournaments, and sailing regattas. Detailed cruising guides can be found in thoroughly researched articles by Southern Boating experts.
Gone are the booze cruise days of the 1980s. They’ve been replaced by charters where the crew puts an emphasis on the well-being rather than that hungover feeling of their guests. Take, for example, several yachts in Camper & Nicholson’s Caribbean fleet: 214-ft Feadship Callisto, 155-foot Sunseeker Princess AVK and 190-ft Benetti Illusion V. Each has personal trainers as part of the crew, which means there’s someone hands-on to put you through your paces in onboard gyms well-equipped with spin bikes, elliptical cross trainers, free weights, and more. Or, if you’d like to keep fit in the water, these yachts have fitness toys like paddleboards, kayaks and waterskis, to name a few.
The benefits of a personal trainer among the crew are out-of-the-box fitness adventures, like a hike up St. Lucia’s iconic Gros Piton 3000 feet above sea level or the heart-pumping climb to Dominica’s Morne Diablotin, the highest mountain in the Eastern Caribbean at 4,747 feet. Follow up with a beach training session for even more activity. Looking for something a little less cardio? The 208-ft Benetti SpA Lioness V boasts a stewardess who is also a qualified yoga instructor. Of course, there is healthful cuisine to match. Fresh-caught Caribbean fish and just-picked tropical fruits like mangos and papayas are deliciously incorporated into meals. Callisto, for example, boasts a Michelin-star trained chef that heads up the galley. Charters focused on well-being are definitely the buzz these days in the Caribbean, especially in the megayacht arena. camperandnicholsons.com
New Outer Marina opens at Nanny Cay
Since December, more slips with deeper depths are available for racing, cruising and megayachts at Nanny Cay Resort & Marina’s Outer Marina. “The marina has been running at full capacity for the last five years and in anticipation of this, the owners commenced an expansion plan in 2009,” explains Alastair Abrehart, spokesperson for the Tortola, B.V.I.-based property. As of now, 42 slips are operational, with the final 78 expected to be in place by August. When completed, the Outer Marina will have 120 slips for yachts 30- to 75-feet with T-heads and a bulkhead capable of berthing megayachts up to 150 feet. Up to 10 megayachts over 100 feet can now dock at Nanny Cay. Controlling depth in the first half of the outer marina is 14 feet and 10 feet in the second half. The 6.5-acre Outer Marina peninsula will have 8 new condominium blocks each with three 4-bed and four 3-bed units; condo construction starts this spring. The expansion is good news for yachtsmen who in the past have found it difficult to get a slip at the dock for the many events Nanny Cay hosts each year: the B.V.I. Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival in March, the ARC USA Rally in May and ARC Caribbean 1500 Rally in November, as well as many races organized by the Royal B.V.I. Yacht Club throughout the year. nannycay.com
Where the big cats roam!
This year the St. Thomas International Regatta will host one of the largest offshore catamaran racing fleets in the Caribbean. As of January 1st, seven big cats are set to compete in this event on March 24-26 hosted out of the St. Thomas Yacht Club in St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. Three gunboats are also included: Arethusa, Fault Tolerant and Elvis, as well as the U.S.V.I.-built Bieker 53 Fujin and HH66 NALA and Kelsall 47 Triple Jack. “Our inter-island courses are perfect for these fast-sailing multihulls. So much so, our regatta is getting to be known as where the big cats roam,” says regatta director Chuck Pessler. stthomasinternationalregatta.com
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine March 2017
Barbados beckons to those seeking pristine beaches, a bottle of rum and a touch of history.
Traditionally known as the first landfall for New World-bound ships from Europe and Africa, the small country of Barbados is today more famous among cruisers for its beach beauty and restored British architecture. The island also proudly lays claim to being the birthplace of rum.
While cruise ships coming from Europe still keep Barbados’ “first port-of-call” fame intact, American cruisers often discover Barbados toward the end of a voyage down the Antilles. Slightly outside of the hurricane belt and with several protected harbors, the island is a popular over-wintering spot.
Barbados is a coralline island (part of the secret behind its more than 80 snow-white beaches) but makes up for its relatively flat interior with a varied coastline. The most remote and uninhabited corner of the island is the far north where ironshore cliffs rise up from the sea. The coastline turns gentle as it sweeps south along the Caribbean side. The Platinum Coast—so named for the amount of money concentrated in the villas and hotels around Bridgetown—sweeps down along the west coast. The island’s far eastern shore turns wild again, with elegant beachfront resorts giving way to small fishing towns and a more easygoing local life.
Amerindians from South America originally settled the island before the arrival of Europeans in 1627. The advent of the slave trade and the establishment of sugar cane plantations quickly turned the island into a hub for trans-Atlantic business.
Cattlewash Beach. The wild east coast of Barbados north of the village of Bathsheba is a long stretch of sand where the ‘white horses’ – thundering Atlantic waves – finally hit land after traveling all the way from Africa.
Sweetfield Manor is a restored plantation house on a hill above Bridgetown. It has been converted into a bed and breakfast by George and Anni Clarke.
The Basin is a secret bathing spot beneath sea cliffs outside the small village of Bathsheba. The surrounding beaches along the wild east coast are often too rough for swimming. But the nearby surfing breaks – including the world famous Soup Bowl – draw an international crowd.
The beach at the Fairmont Royal Pavilion, the most British resort on Barbados. The island is often called the most British in the Caribbean due to the nearly 400 years of uninterrupted British rule.
Rum shop. These local taverns are the heart of every village.
Costumed dancer in one of the many bands that ‘jumps up’ on Grand Kadooment Day to celebrate the end of the annual Crop Over celebration. Crop Over is an 18th-century festival honoring the end of the sugar cane harvest.
High tea at the Fairmont Royal Pavilion, the most British resort on Barbados. The island is often called the most British in the Caribbean due to the nearly 400 years of uninterrupted British rule.
Horse races are held at the Barbados Turf Club on the old grounds of Garrison Savannah, where the British Caribbean Force was once billeted.
High tea at the Fairmont Royal Pavilion, the most British resort on Barbados. The island is often called the most British in the Caribbean due to the nearly 400 years of uninterrupted British rule.
Sweetfield Manor is a restored plantation house on a hill above Bridgetown. It has been converted into a bed and breakfast by owners George and Anni Clarke (pictured).
Black cow and a rare road sign in the Scotland District, a hilly highland region in northeastern Barbados.
More so than anywhere else in the English-speaking Caribbean, Barbados retains much of its colonial architecture. The grand Georgian and Victorian mansions of the upper-crust British administrators and the sugar barons’ coral-stone “Great Houses” out on the plantations remain as enduring monuments to what was once one of the richest ports—thanks to sugar—in the Empire. More than a dozen 17th and 18th-century buildings still survive throughout the island. No less remarkable are the brightly painted chattel houses—mobile wooden homes built by freed slaves. This architecture is unique to Barbados and a testament to the unbroken African spirit that not only survived the darkest days of the slave trade but also prevailed.
To get a good sense of Barbados’ history, head south to the Sunbury Plantation House in the heart of St. Philip’s sugarcane country. The 300-year-old plantation has been restored to its original grandeur and serves breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, and candlelit dinners. Hunte’s Gardens in the cool highlands of St. Joseph offers a private botanic garden with whimsical statues, winding paths and shaded benches for quiet contemplation. Enjoy a chilled glass of rum punch at the end of your tour, and shop for souvenirs in the nearby nursery.
Hurricanes rarely strike Barbados. The climate is deeply tropical with northeast trade winds keeping the highs to an average of 78 degrees, and daily rainfall amounts to less than a quarter inch. Beachgoers quickly find the water just as delightful, with a year-round range in the low 80s. The island experiences two mild seasons: the dry season (winter and spring) when the temperatures dip slightly and less rain falls, and the wet season (summer and autumn) with warmer days and more precipitation.
The roughly quarter million locals, known as Bajans, are mostly descendants of African slaves and West Indians but retain strong cultural ties to the British. Cricket games, high tea and horse racing are among some of the favored pastimes. Islanders share a conservative, religious outlook on life—more than 75 percent are Christians—and Sundays can be particularly quiet days, especially beyond Bridgetown. This tradition comes through on a daily basis with the polite nature of Bajans; visitors are besieged with “good morning” greetings and smiles.
The religious conservatism notwithstanding, the Bajans also share a common love of partying. Friday and Saturday nights see locals gathering at rum shops to debate politics or heading to the beach for an evening fish fry and impromptu party.
The island’s endless celebrations are another draw for cruisers. February kicks off with the Hometown Festival in St. James Parish, followed by the Oistins Fish Festival food fair and the Sandy Lane Gold Cup horse races at the historic Garrison Savannah Racecourse. There’s a Barbados Reggae Festival in early spring before festivities culminate in summer’s Crop Over Festival to celebrate the close of the sugarcane harvest. This spectacularly colorful multiday celebration has evolved into one of the wildest carnivals in the Caribbean with dancing bands, late-night parties and copious amounts of rum.
It doesn’t take much effort to find rum on Barbados. The island is the self-proclaimed birthplace of and rum capital of the world. Rum shops (small, local bars) are ubiquitous around the island and a popular gathering spot for locals and tourists alike to enjoy a rum punch or Bajan painkiller. The island’s rum heritage goes back over 350 years, but it wasn’t until 1703 that the island began exporting its alcohol. That was the year Mount Gay Rum first began operations. A popular way to explore the rum culture is to join a Mount Gay Rum Tour and see how the island’s oldest distillery makes rum. Not surprisingly, the tour ends in the bar with a taste-testing session.
Barbados’ capital, Bridgetown, is worth a visit, whether you’re looking for the latest nautical charts or need to fix a prop. An attractive port, Bridgetown and its garrison have been named World Heritage Sites. The harbor often looks more like a glacier since it’s bow-to-stern with iceberg-white cruise ships for most of the year. But just a short taxi ride downtown provides access to malls, duty-free shopping and blocks of beautifully restored colonial architecture. The inner marina and Chamberlain Bridge create a safe haven for small boats, while Independence Square, in the center of the city, is a great place to relax, have a picnic and take in views of Parliament.
Beyond the marinas, sailors will find plenty of adventure. The annual Mount Gay Round Barbados Race (January 16-24, 2017) celebrates the island’s nautical history, while a variety of smaller regattas are held on weekends throughout the island.
Barbados is also popular for water sports beyond sailing. Scuba divers will find plenty of dive sites scattered along the coral reefs. Much of the dive action is clustered around Carlisle Bay Marine Park near Bridgetown, as it’s home to a half dozen shipwrecks. Based on Pebbles Beach, Dive Barbados Blue is the only dive shop on the island with staff marine biologists. Their two custom dive boats can reach most of the dive sites between Carlisle Bay and Oistins Bay in a few minutes. The jewel is the Stavronikita, a 365-foot freighter sunk in the Carlisle Bay Marine Park. Dottins dive site off Holetown is a great place to spot sea turtles and barracuda.
Surfers are drawn to the east coast around Soup Bowl, an internationally famous surfing spot. The island’s near-constant winds (frequently onshore) and sheltered waters also make Barbados a mecca for kite surfers.
Story & photos by Jad Davenport, Southern Boating Magazine November 2016
— BARBADOS CRUISER RESOURCES —
DOCKAGE
Port Ferdinand Marina and Luxury Residences Retreat, St. Peter; portferdinand.com U.S. & Canada (855) 346-8662
Barbados (246) 272-2000
-82 residences, 120 full-service berths, ships’ store, and marina services
Port St. Charles Yacht Club
St. Peter; portstcharles.com/berthing (246) 419-1000 ext. 2230; Dockmaster Derek Ince
-Berths up to 200 feet, 6 megayacht berths up to 250 feet, 2 offshore mooring buoys for yachts greater than 250 feet
MOORING/ANCHORAGE
As always, we encourage readers to consult their most up-to-date and preferred cruising guide for the safest anchorages with the best scenery.
Enjoy fun in the sun and rum when Sunsail kicks off its new 8-day B.V.I. Rum Flotilla in February. “The idea is to give a distinct group of travellers, namely rum aficionados and foodies, a bespoke flotilla experience,” says Nicole Smirlis, brand manager for the Americas of the Clearwater, Florida-headquartered global yacht charter company. “This includes stops at some of the B.V.I.’s best rum hotspots including distilleries, bars and restaurants that serve their own local rum with delicious cuisine to match.” Examples include a Happy Hour at the Bitter End Yacht Club’s Windward Mark Bar complete with the resort’s signature rum punch, a Pusser’s Painkiller Party at Marina Cay’s Hilltop Bar and a tour of the Callwood Rum Distillery in Cane Garden Bay, the oldest continuously operating rum distillery in the Caribbean. Departure dates for 2017: February 3rd, February 24th, May 26th, June 30th, November 17th, and December 8th. sunsail.com
Test your mettle on the Round Redonda Race
Some of the world’s swiftest-sailing, high-tech yachts manned by talented international crews head to Antigua in February for the Royal Ocean Racing Club’s (RORC) Caribbean 600. This epic 600-mile race course departs Antigua’s Falmouth Harbour on February 20th and navigates around 11 Caribbean islands from Guadeloupe to the south and Anguilla to the north. This year, organizers of the Jolly Harbour Yacht Club’s (JHYC) Valentine Regatta will offer an opportunity for all-comers to test their mettle like the big boys on one of the Caribbean 600’s legs in the first-ever Round Redonda Race set for February 14th. “This is a race open to anyone,” invites Grahame Williams, JHYC commodore. “The classes will be decided once the entries are known. Several local and visiting sailors are expected to race their boats.” The start takes place outside Jolly Harbour near Cades Reef and is a downward leg to Redonda. The return to Falmouth is a beat into the wind. Redonda is a 0.6 square-mile uninhabited island located 37 miles to the west of Antigua. As for the RORC Caribbean 600 itself, 70-80 entries are expected, including the multi-time Maxi72 world champion Belle Mente and new Infinity 46 Maverick with its DSS foil. It’s great fun to go up to Shirley Heights and watch this fantastic fleet take their mark, get set and go. jhycantigua.com; caribbean600.rorc.org
Dominica’s Yachtie Appreciation Week
The beautiful “Nature Island” of Dominica is hard to visit by boat since there are no marinas. Moorings were also non-existent until now. But thanks to the spearheading of Han Schmitt, owner of Huntington, NewYork-based crew network service, Offshore Passage Opportunities, along with the Dominica Marine Association (DMA), nonprofit Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services (P.A.Y.S.), and the Dominican government, nearly 40 moorings have been installed in Prince Rupert Bay for use by visiting cruisers. In celebration, cruisers are invited to Yachtie Appreciation Week February 12-19, 2017. “Highlights of the week will include discounted tours to the Emerald Pool and Boiling Lake, an afternoon soccer match between the local high school and boat boy/yachtie team, and farewell dinner and music at historic Fort Shirley,” says Schmitt. In addition, adds Hubert Winston, president of the DMA and owner of the Dominica Marine Center in Roseau, “We will also host a dinghy poker run that includes five local beach bar hops.” sailopo.com
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine February 2017
The competitive sailing season peaks in the winter and spring, when the weather is still too cold for comfortable yachting in northern climes. Each regatta boasts a special charm all its own. Serious racers mark their calendars for the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta and St. Thomas International Regatta, both in March, as well as the B.V.I. Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival and Les Voiles de St. Bart’s in April, and also Antigua Sailing Week, which finishes up the first week in May. Aficionados of classic yachts race in the B.V.I.’s Sweethearts of the Caribbean Regatta in February, the West Indies Regatta in St. Barts and Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta in April.
Beginners who want to try their hand at crewing aboard or racing against local island boats can do so at the Grenada Sailing Festival in January, Bequia Easter Regatta in April and Anguilla Regatta in May. Many islands host informal dinghy regattas throughout the year. However, the two big kids-oriented events are the Schoelcher International Sailing Week in February in Martinique, where classes include Optimists, Lasers, Open Bic, Sunfish, and Beach Cats, and the International Optimist Regatta in St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. in June, where more than 100 young sailors ages 8-15 compete from more than a dozen countries. There are several great Caribbean regattas in the summer and fall, too, including the Aruba International Regatta and Around Grenada Regattas in August. Puerto Rico’s Discover the Caribbean, the St. Croix International Regatta and St. Lucia’s Mango Bowl are all in November. These last five are smaller events that welcome classes for cruisers. The Caribbean Sailing Association’s website includes dates for every regatta in the region. caribbean-sailing.com
The bite is on year-round! Deep undersea drop-offs and large schools of bait fish make the Caribbean one of the best billfishing spots in the world. Blue marlin reigns as king of catch-and-release, yet tournaments focused on this species also usually include points for white marlin, sailfish and spearfish. There’s no single fishing season since the marlin migrate north and south throughout the year. In fact, it’s possible to find a billfish tournament in which to compete nearly each month of the year. In addition, many of these tournaments are qualifying events for the Offshore World Championship, the largest offshore fishing tournament series in the world, which takes place each spring in Costa Rica. Caribbean qualifiers include the Budget Marine Spice Island Billfish Tournament (January, Grenada), Casa de Campo International Blue Marlin Classic (March, Dominican Republic), Barbados International Billfish Tournament (March, Barbados), the Marlin Madness Game Fishing Tournament (April, Trinidad), Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament (May, Tobago), Saint Martin Billfish Tournament (June, Saint Martin), Caicos Classic (July, Turks & Caicos), Montego Bay International Marlin Tournament (September, Jamaica), and in October, the St. Lucia International Billfish Tournament, Presidential Aruba Caribbean Cup and Martinique Billfish Tournament. Bring your own boat or reserve a local charter boat for any of these events.
There are some excellent gamefish tournaments, too. These are especially great for visitors, including families and budget-conscious fishermen as it’s possible to rent a center console with or without captain for the day. Some of the most fun—and with awesome prizes—are the Bastille Day Kingfish Tournament in St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. in July, the Tarpon Thunder Tournament in August in Trinidad, and the St. Maarten Wahoo Tournament in November
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine January 2017
Lighted boat parades happen throughout the Caribbean in December. One of the most exciting is the St. Croix Christmas Boat Parade held in the U.S.V.I. on December 10th.
You won’t want to miss this Caribbean boat parade.
Live-aboards, visiting cruisers, charterers, and locals on powerboats, sailing yachts or water toys—even stand-up paddleboards—are all invited to enter for free. The parade starts at 6PM, and over 30 watercraft launch on a route that twice circles the safe, protected waters of Christiansted Harbor. If you’re on board, get ready to see a cheering crowd lining the Christiansted Boardwalk as well as at Protestant Cay. If you’re on shore, these two locations are the best spots for viewing. The parade is so popular it’s even been showcased on the Travel Channel. It’s no wonder, since tropical twists have included Santas in green and red boardshorts, fire dancers and local reggae artists singing the territory’s customary carols. A huge fireworks display after the parade is followed by live music, vendors lining the town’s streets and shops open late for holiday shopping. christmasparadestcroix.com
Everyone on St. Croix dresses up for the Christmas parade…even paddleboarders! Photo credit: Ellen Sanpere
Ring out the old year in the B.V.I. Rub shoulders with celebrities and bid farewell to the Old Year on December 31st on Jost Van Dyke in the B.V.I. Here, seventh-generation native and calypsonian, Sir Philicianno “Foxy” Callwood, who was knighted by the Queen of England in 2009 for his contributions to tourism and the environment, puts on a party of global fame at his Foxy’s Tamarind Bar in Great Harbour. In fact, the New York Times listed Foxy’s as one of the best places to ring in the millennium back in 1999. Yet Great Harbour, on this 3.5-square-mile island, is a world away from other favorite New Year’s destinations like New York City’s Times Square. Access is by boat only, whether you bring your own, charter or take the ferry. Attire is barefoot and bathing suits, and sleeping on the beach until sunup is the norm. This year, the party starts on Friday, December 30th and lasts until Sunday, January 1st, with live bands, a pig roast and more. Admission is free. The only costs are food and drinks at Foxy’s or one of the other half dozen open-air bars that line the harbor. If you’re serious about partying with the rich and famous, book a table at Foxy’s Tamarind Bar’s Upper Crust restaurant on the second floor. Here, the VIP party includes a multi-course dinner, champagne, hats, noisemakers, and terrific views for $500 per person. foxysbar.com/old-years-celebration; bvitourism.com/jost-van-dyke.
New Year’s potluck in Trinidad The Seven Seas Cruising Association’s (SSCA) first event of 2017 is on January 1st. This “gam,” or what the SSCA calls a “friendly interchange, especially between sailors or seafarers,” is a potluck held at the Trinidad & Tobago Yachting Association’s headquarters in Chaguaramas. SSCA Cruising Station host Jesse James and his wife Sharon, who operate Members Only Maxi Taxi Service, offer a free shuttle from local marinas to the gam. It’s a great event and an excellent opportunity for sailors new to the Caribbean to tap into the collected wealth of attendees’ cruising experiences in the region. ssca.org; membersonlymaxitaxi.com
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine December 2016
New Caribbean Venue for 2018 Atlantic to Caribbean Rally
Thoughts turn to warmer climates when it starts getting cold up north. One of the most popular ways for sailors to make this migration south is as part of a rally, which offers the benefit of “cruising with company” with other like-minded sailors. Crucial services such as pre-rally safety seminars and professional weather forecasting offer other advantages. Plus, there are social events held exclusively for rally participants that take place before casting off and at the voyage’s completion. This offers the kind of camaraderie you just can’t get by going it alone. These four rallies are headed to the Caribbean this month.
Cruising in company has never been more popular. Case in point, the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) has reached its capacity nearly 10 months in advance of the start for the last two years. For 2018, organizers are boosting the slots available on this cross-the-pond fun sailing rally by adding a second, slightly later start and an alternative finish in the Caribbean island of St. Vincent. “The ARC+St. Vincent will leave from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria on November 15th, four days after the ARC+ to St. Lucia, and o- er the same pre-start week of activities, seminars, and parties,” says Sarah Collins, communications manager for the Cowes, UK-based World Cruising Club. “Entries will be limited to twenty-five yachts this year, so those keen to pioneer this new route are encouraged to enter early. Since entries opened this summer, new ralliers, as well as returners, have already signed on.”
The ARC+St. Vincent will make landfall at the Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina, in Blue Lagoon Bay, St. Vincent. This property was purchased in 2015 by an avid sailor and businessman who has turned it into a one-of-a-kind facility complete with small hotel, restaurants, bar, pool, dive shop, and market. Blue Lagoon Bay is located on the southeastern tip of the island, which makes a perfect cast-o- point to explore the Grenadine islands to the south. worldcruising.com;bluelagoonsvg.com
The islands of St. Vincent and the Grenadines form one country that stretches along 40 miles of the eastern Caribbean in a northeast-southwest direction. The better known gem-like Grenadines include Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, Tobago Cays, Mayreau, and Union Islands. But there are many spits of sand and one-boat anchorages to drop the hook, feel the trade winds on your skin and ponder the meaning of civilization from the shady comfort of the cockpit.
We make much of the term “civilization”, as if it signals a respite from an otherwise inhospitable environment. The word means different things to different people. For some, it’s WiFi, lattes, rental cars, and restaurants. For me, it’s a capable boat, cool drinks, aquamarine waters, and friendly locals, which aptly describe this island country.
St. Vincent is a lush island and a convenient jumping-off point to the Grenadines when arriving from the north. (If chartering, it’s best to start in Grenada to the south where many charter companies are based.) There’s much to do ashore on the big island. Fort Charlotte overlooks Kingstown. Take a guided tour of the botanical gardens with exotic plants and the St. Vincent parrot whose blue, green and yellow plumage inspired the country’s flag. Guides for hire bring the garden to life with good humor and education so that even the flora-challenged enjoy the scenery.
A nice place to catch a mooring before departing for points south is near Young Island at the bottom of St. Vincent. A nearby rocky pinnacle is home to the ruins of Fort Duvernette. Climb the 255 steps to inspect the cannons and the views from the top before getting under way.
Adventure Jeep tours offer visitors the opportunity to explore Grenada’s natural beauty.
C&N’s Port Louis Marina boasts the vibrant colors the islands are famous for. Photo: Camper & Nicholsons International
The Grenada Sailing Festival takes place every year on Grand Anse Beach. The friendly rivalry of this close-knit community is often expressed in Grenada through the creation of many local regattas and competitions to see which competitor has the fastest vessel. Photo: Joshua Yetman
C&N’s Port Louis Marina is also a popular charter destination. Photo: Steve Brett
Few people do more than dip a toe in the water on Union Island. Swimming and surfing are banned on La Réunion in all but a few places because of a fear of shark attacks.
Cannons watch over the walls of Fort Charlotte constructed in 1806, which has spectacular views overlooking Kingstown and is always worth a visit.
Snorkeling in Grenada is only one of the many activities to enjoy while out on the water.
The world’s first underwater sculpture gallery on Grenada attracts divers. Photo: Jason deCaires Taylor
The Grenada Sailing Festival takes place every year on Grand Anse Beach. The friendly rivalry of this close-knit community is often expressed in Grenada through the creation of many local regattas and competitions to see which competitor has the fastest vessel. Photo: Joshua Yetman
The carnival activities in Grenada begin in July, although they don’t pick up until the beginning of August with nightly calypso shows. A week before the Grenada Carnival begins, the carnival queen show takes place with a parade through St. George’s streets.
An easy run south is beautiful Bequia (pronounced Bek-way), the largest and northernmost of the Grenadines. The friendly English-speaking population is very welcoming. Bequia’s Admiralty Bay provides lots of easy anchoring and moorings off the beach of Port Elizabeth. The islands’ “boat boy” culture involves men and women entrepreneurs who come out in their small boats to assist with hooking up to a mooring ball, deliver fresh baked goods, haul away trash, or deliver ice. Tip them well and they’ll take care of nearly anything you need.
Shopping in Port Elizabeth is colorful; bright T-shirts flap in the breeze outside vibrant gift shops. Street vendors offer everything from fruit and locally made jewelry to boating souvenirs carved from coconuts. Stroll down Belmont Walkway, a stone path along the bay lapped by the waves and lined with cafes and bars. It’s almost window-shopping for a place to relax; we like the Whaleboner Bar followed by Mac’s for pizza.
Mustique is a 10-mile jaunt southeast, a mostly private island with vacation homes for the rich and famous. You cannot anchor here and must take a $200 EC ($75 U.S.) mooring. A highlight is Basils’ Bar and a golf cart tour of the islands. The best time to visit is during the Mustique Blues Festival, usually held in January.
From Mustique, it’s 21 miles with a beam wind to Horsesho e Reef which surrounds the Tobago Cays. Postcard vistas of white sand beaches and swaying palm trees make up the mostly uninhabited cays where every angle presents a paradise of kaleidoscope colors. The four idyllic islands hide in protected waters. They were designated as a national marine park in 1998 so rangers ask for $10 EC (40 cents U.S.) per person per day, which is a fair price for guardianship of the area.
There are few distractions here and no nightlife other than the odd beach BBQ coordinated by the boat boys. The spectacular reef provides mostly protected water, and great snorkeling is near the roped-off sanctuary off Baradel Island; rays glide by and turtles feed on grass so close that you can hear them munching as they graze.
Parts of Pirates of the Caribbean were filmed in the Cays, so if you take your camera and troll the various beaches, you might find a few angles that look like Captain Jack Sparrow is about to swagger around the corner. Remote and pristine, the Cays are about bringing your swimsuit, a good book, cooler of beer, and forgetting the world for a while.
With good light and eyes focused on the crystalline water, it’s possible to thread the unmarked reefs and head out of the Cays’ southern entrance enroute to Union Island, a mere three miles away. Its highest peak, Mt. Parnassus, is nearly 900 feet so you can’t miss it. The main town of Clifton provides great provisioning with an open-air produce market and several grocery stores that sell gourmet coffee, chocolate and bread. A sundowner at Janti’s Happy Island in the harbor is mandatory and can only be reached via dinghy because it was built on the reef out of thousands of conch shells gathered by Janti himself. Clifton is on the windward side and if the weather is a bit sporty, it may be time to hide in Chatham Bay on the western end. This large bay with a long beach has multiple shack-style restaurants advertising lobster dinners.
When Columbus plied Caribbean waters, St. Vincent was known by its inhabitants as Hairoun, which means “home of the blessed”—it’s also a brand of a popular local beer. The region had a tumultuous history and was settled by various groups including the peaceful Arawak Indians, the not-so-peaceful Carib Indians and a mixed bag of Europeans who ping-ponged the region’s ownership back and forth for hundreds of years. Missionaries, wrecked slave ships and rumors of cannibalism made for colorful, if grim, beginnings. A succinct synopsis of the islands’ evolution is told and retold with imaginative flair by proud locals who tend to insert their own “historical facts”.
The postcard-perfect Grenadines differ from one another and you can experience a wide variety of terrain and culture in a compact area. It’s such a unique location that once is not enough when visiting these quintessentially Caribbean islands. I, for one, will be back soon, since civilization in the literal sense is overrated, but civilization redefined is sublime.
INSIDER TIP: Any time is a good time to visit the Windward Islands since temperatures hover around 80 degrees Fahrenheit and the trade winds blow a refreshing breeze year-round. Many cruisers slip down to Grenada just south of the Grenadines during hurricane season (June to November); some insurance companies consider it to be below the hurricane belt.
Outside of the Blue Lagoon at the southern tip of St. Vincent, there aren’t many marinas in the Grenadines. Mooring fields are plentiful with prices ranging $20-45 EC. The best selection of charter yachts, including power catamarans from The Moorings, is in Grenada. Sunsail, Moorings and Dream Yacht all have bases in St. George’s. Note: check-in and check-out is needed when cruising between the Grenadines and Grenada, which are separate countries.
Provisioning is good especially on Bequia and Union Islands. Local grocers can be a fun exploration of items like sugar apples, durian, callalou, wax apples, and soursop.
GRENADINES CRUISER RESOURCES:
MARINAS: Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina
Ratho Mill
St. Vincent & the Grenadines
+1 (784) 458-4308
Port Louis Marina
St. Georges, Grenada
+1 (473) 435-7432
You never know who you’re going to meet in the British Virgin Islands.
I have to admit, when the boss said I’d be going on a bareboat powercat charter in the British Virgin Islands (B.V.I.), my first thought was, “Again? I’ve already been there twice.” (Pathetic, I know, but at least give me some credit for admitting it.) Then I learned I’d be joining 13 other powercats on a MarineMax BVI Getaway organized by MarineMax of Lake of the Ozarks, Missouri (MMLOO). As a former Midwesterner, boating with folks who are even close to my neck of the woods sounded just too fun to pass up. I was all in.
My group of four opted to fly to St. Thomas, get a hotel and take the water shuttle the next day as we’ve done in the past. If you’ve never been to St. Thomas, the Windward Passage Hotel is close to restaurants, shopping, offers a view of Charlotte Amalie Bay, and the ferry terminal is just across the street and down a block. (Note: Eat in Frenchtown at either Hook, Line & Sinker or The Pie Whole, an authentic New York pizza joint with an extensive beer menu; try the Rogue Mocha Porter or one of the local varieties brewed upstairs.)
The Jost Van Dyke Methodist Church is on Great Harbour down the road from Foxy’s.
Oliver (7) and Jacob (9) joined their parents, aunt & uncle and grandparents on the Getaway; their favorite part was snorkeling and seeing jellyfish, anemone and clams.
Shops near Foxy’s on Jost Van Dyke’s Great Harbour offer a variety of colorful island gifts and garb.
Kyle Bargfrede of MMLOO and wife Mandy invited friends Randy & Anna on Kyle’s 3rd BVI Getaway.
Getaway gals explore Manchioneel Bay by kayak.
Bob and Mitzi Plocher do most of their boating in Lake of the Ozarks on their 2005 Sea Ray 390. Creating family memories while expanding their cruising horizons on a MarineMax Getaway with daughters’ families was Bob’s idea. Bob and Mitzi are joined at the restaurant above The Baths on Virgin Gorda are Amy & Michael Garrett and Kim & Zach Lewis. For the Getaway they appropriately named their boat No Regrets.
Taxis on Jost Van Dyke transport tourists between the two bays and stop for photo opportunities upon request.
The Soggy Dollar Bar on Jost Van Dyke’s White Bay attracts tourists by land and charter guests by sea
A shallow reef protects charter boats moored off White Bay on Jost Van Dyke.
In my opinion, a better option is to fly directly to Tortola; flights are more expensive, but you’ll save time and the hotel and water shuttle expense. Besides, the water shuttles are not typically very punctual (i.e. “island time”). Arrange in advance with your MarineMax representative to stay on the powercat the first night at their Tortola charter headquarters on Hodge’s Creek Marina. Also, ask for provisions to be delivered before your arrival if you prefer to cook on board that evening while familiarizing yourself with the boat.
A MarineMax BVI Getaway Done Right
After our shared van shuttle from the Roadtown ferry boat terminal to the MarineMax charter base at Hodge’s Creek Marina, we got to know some of our cruising mates at the welcome dinner, including Monte Richardson of Afton, Oklahoma, who leases a boat slip from MMLOO. This was the first time cruising the BVI for any in their group of five family members. “I had been talking about a family Caribbean cruise but instead, I talked my dad into this, although my sister takes the credit,” Monte joked. They named their 443 Aquila powercat Monarka for the trip, an amalgamation of their names: Monte, Mark, Karen, and the Spanish translation of their dad Arthur, who bought his 2004 44′ Sea Ray from MMLOO.
A MarineMax BVI Getaway enables MarineMax dealers to offer group boating vacations to their customers so that they can experience new and exciting places and connect with others who enjoy the boating lifestyle. “The B.V.I. is a preferred location and our fleet has 32 powercats and 4 monohull sailboats,” says Harry Mountain, Logistics & Operations manager of MarineMax Vacations and Aquila boat sales based in Clearwater, Florida. One of the competitive advantages of MarineMax charters is that Wi-Fi is included on every boat. “It really enables people who are tied to their jobs to stay in touch with the office, reduce email when they get back from a trip and combine work with pleasure.”
Early the next morning, the 14 boat skippers and mates attended the charter presentation—a review for some but interesting and informative nonetheless—while others picked up snorkel vests, fishing licenses, etc. The first destination was only 4 miles across Sir Francis Drake Channel to Cooper Island, where we picked up a mooring ball—get them early when they’re available—and then used the RIB to go to Cistern Point for snorkeling. (Note: If you don’t have good upper body strength to get back in the RIB from the water, bring your own packable ladder unless one of your boat mates is a MacGyver-type who knows how to make one from boat lines.) Dinner at the Cooper Island Beach Club was a B.V.I. first for us and highly recommended.
Mooring balls fill up quickly at The Baths, so we departed Cooper Island early the next morning. Our friends enjoyed the trail through the boulders, and we rewarded our effort with a snack at the top of the trail. We met up with MMLOO salesman Kyle Bargfrede and his wife Mandy of Osage Beach, Missouri, their friends Randy and Anna, and Kyle’s customers Rogie Carlock and Shawn Walker. Kyle has been with MarineMax for five years and, in addition to enjoying a vacation with his wife away from their two toddlers, he wanted to see the charter operation firsthand. “The B.V.I. is amazing, a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for most. Instead of a resort destination trip, you get multiple opportunities and adventures,” says Kyle, who owns two boats: one for watersports and another for fishing. “I can now offer my customers something that no other company does. It shows my customers my company’s commitment to boating and the lifestyle. Now that I’ve done this as a group, I can do it by myself with my own group. It’s given me way more confidence.”
The group itinerary included an overnight at the Bitter End Yacht Club, where our Aquila 484 powercat had the far north dock all to ourselves. Our boatmates planned to cook a hot breakfast on board the next morning but the cooktop malfunctioned. Thankfully, one of the MarineMax technicians was traveling with the group—one of the many benefits of this program—and made sure the “operator error” was corrected and our provisions wouldn’t go to waste.
The MMLOO group departed for Jost Van Dyke but we had customized our own itinerary and headed for snorkeling at The Indians. Alas, no mooring balls were available and the water was very rough, so we got settled in The Bight Bay at Norman Island, launched the RIB and headed to the Caves for snorkeling. (There are always options in the B.V.I. so when you charter, plan ahead to know what they are before they need them.) The MMLOO group’s itinerary scheduled them for The Bight the final night aboard, but we knew based on previous trips and personal experience aboard the Willy T—an old ship anchored in the Bight known for loud music, late night parties and raucous partiers—that we’d have a better night’s sleep on a different night.
We waved hello to our new cruising friends as we crossed paths—it’s hard to miss 13 beautiful Aquila powercats in the B.V.I.—on our way to Jost Van Dyke, and picked up a mooring ball in the northern end of Great Harbour, where our B.V.I. cruising guide indicated would be most calm. It was rough and windy outside of the harbor, so we took a cab from Foxy’s dock to White Bay ($40US/roundtrip per couple) and the Soggy Dollar Bar. Our dinner at Foxy’s was predictably delicious, and the chef happily made adjustments for dietary restrictions. We even bumped into Billy Davidson from Cottage Grove, Minnesota, an acquaintance from our boating days there. You never know who you’re going to see when you’re cruising in the B.V.I.
Our custom itinerary included a final day in poolside luxury with a swim-up bar, marina shore power and a gourmet lobster dinner at Scrub Island Resort, a Marriott Autograph Collection property accessible only by boat or helicopter. Cruising was windy and rough on the north side of Tortola, and I was glad to be on the largest powercat in the MarineMax fleet, though all of them handle well. I’m a huge fan of powercats in general, but the Aquila 484 is really designed to impress for both charter and private ownership. The Aquila powercats are designed specifically for power as opposed to sailing cats that have been adapted for power. Though we only had one other couple on a four-cabin powercat, three couples joined Dave Gabert and Jeanie Schmidt of Kansas City, Kansas, on the Aquila 484 they dubbed Old Couples for the Getaway. Gabert had a long-standing relationship with the previous ownership of his dealer in Lake of the Ozarks and now with MarineMax, went on his first B.V.I. Getaway in 2013 and returned with friends for this one. Gabert describes Teresa Riley of MMLOO and Getaway organizer as the “hostess with the mostest” and adds “We stay with them because we like the people.”
All great vacations come to an end, yet even the check-in process back at the MarineMax charter base was enjoyable and relaxed. We simply pulled into an available slip, and the staff handled refueling after guests’ departure—much easier for everyone. The water shuttle from Roadtown back to St. Thomas was the only “rocky” part of the whole trip. Next time the boss sends me to the B.V.I., remind me to take my own advice and fly directly to Tortola.
Story and photos by Liz Pasch, Southern Boating September 2016
The Bitter End Yacht Club (BEYC) is one of the world’s best resorts for sailors, from its nearly always placid North Sound Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands setting to its over 100 vessel fleet of monohull sailboats, performance catamarans and windsurfers. It’s in this vein of catering to sailors of all skills that the BEYC started its Pro Am Regatta 30 years ago. The event is set for October 22-29 this year and pairs professional sailors with amateurs during a week chock-full of festivities that includes fleet racing, team racing and match racing. “We are pulling out all the stops for our 30th anniversary,” says John Glynn, vice president of sales and marketing. “The skipper’s list includes past winners like Ed Baird and Taylor Canfield, plus crowd favorites and industry legends like Dave Perry and Dave Ullman, plus three to five other skippers to be announced.” The event is sailed in IC 24s, a modified J/24 design, with four guests per boat and a rotating pro sailor on the helm. In addition to the racing, guests and pros can mingle at nightly dinners, cocktail cruises and entertaining gatherings. Guests can ask the pros pointed questions about the America’s Cup, Olympics, One Design Racing, and other topics at the highly anticipated Scuttlebutt “State of the Sport” Forum. Cruisers are welcome at the cocktail functions and, in some instances, can join the racing fun. The Pro Am’s Defiance Day coastal races to The Baths for lunch and back are open to all boats, including cruising catamarans. beyc.com/compete
Fishing on B.V.I. charters
As of July 1st, The Moorings power catamaran fleet in the B.V.I. are registered fishing vessels, which allows charter guests to fish after obtaining a proper fishing license. The decision to register the yachts followed a reinforced fishing policy by the B.V.I. government. Fishing in the B.V.I. is highly rated with plentiful amounts of tarpon, kingfish and barracuda. moorings.com
U.S.V.I. mooring fee increase
Unchanged for more than 20 years, annual costs for anchoring and mooring in the U.S.V.I. were increased in May to $10/foot for pleasure craft, $15/foot for liveaboards and $20/foot for commercial craft. Visiting craft can still moor or drop anchor for free for up to 14 days per year; moorings in the Virgin Islands National Park on St. John still charge a fee for overnight use.
Trio of Billfishing Tournaments
Whether you’re cruising to the Greater Antilles, Lesser Antilles or further south to the ABC islands this month, you’ll find a great billfishing tournament. The Port Antonio International Marlin Tournament takes place October 1-8 out of the same-named port on the northeast coast of Jamaica. The week of angling for big blues is punctuated by a native canoe fishing tournament on the layday plus nightly parties. Next up is the Varadero Aruba Caribbean Cup set for October 20-23 out of Varadero Marina & Boatyard in Aruba; the opportunity to catch a Grand Slam has long hooked anglers on this event. Finally, the St. Lucia International Billfish Tournament is scheduled for October 25-29 out of Island Global Yachting’s Rodney Bay Marina on St. Lucia. Newly placed fish aggregration devices (FADs) should increase the likelihood of fantastic fishing as well as an opportunity to break the island’s 707-pound blue marlin record and win a new car. jamaicasportsfishing.com; preschallenge.com; facebook.com/slugamefishingassociation
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine October 2016
Many opportunities to catch and release marlin are what organizers of the San Juan International Billfish Tournament (IBT), hosted out of Club Nautico de San Juan from September 12th to 18th, have been preparing for. Over the past year, seven Fish Aggregating Devices (FADs) have been constructed and installed in the waters off Puerto Rico. “Fishing is hot,” says IBT chairman Salvador Egea, Jr. “Blue marlin, whites, sailfish, wahoo, tuna, and other sport fish have been biting since the first FAD was deployed eight miles off the San Juan Harbor, the prime fishing grounds for our tournament, in August 2015.” A total of 48 FADs will be placed in Puerto Rican waters over the next few years. In addition to the promise of a hot bite, it’s the hospitality that is the real signature of the IBT event. International anglers get picked up personally from the airport rather than having to take a taxi, and the Ladies Committee puts together a full program of shopping, sightseeing and spa visits for non-fishing spouses. Those who can’t make it this year can still follow the action. Organizers have launched a mobile app that provides real time information on releases, day tallies and cumulative results. sanjuaninternational.com
Celebrate Labor Day in Coral Bay. The tropics tend to have quieter event schedules in September due to the peak of hurricane season. However, one bright spot of festivities begins on Labor Day in Coral Bay, St. John. The smallest of the three major U.S. Virgin Islands—accessible only by boat—boasts a zany parade complete with queens, costumed troupes and even the island’s iconic donkeys on Monday, September 5th. The procession starts at noon on the south side of Coral Harbor by Island Blues and ends less than a mile north at the ballfield across from the 18th century Emmaus Moravian Church. Vendors line the finish selling everything from local fruit juices made of mango, papaya and tamarind to favorite foods such as chicken legs, johnnycakes and meat-filled pâtés, as well as a variety of handmade arts and crafts. Live music keeps the party going long into the night. There’s an extra special reason to celebrate Labor Day or any day in Coral Bay. The New York Times listed this quaint settlement fourth on its list of 52 Places to Go in 2016. Two marina projects are planned that some residents welcome, as there is no marina here currently. However, others fear the project will change the very face of what draws visitors to this piece of paradise. visitusvi.com/stjohn/homepage
New boatyard offers a variety of services. Clarkes Court Boatyard and Marina (CCBM) is one of the newest kids on the block when it comes to boatyards in the Caribbean. Located on the southwest coast of Grenada next to the sheltered waters of Woburn Bay, the marine business celebrated its first anniversary and 300th haul in June. Facilities and services include a Roodberg submersible trailer with a 40-ton lift capacity, a Travelift capable of hauling vessels up to 242 tons, woodworking, welding, painting, and rigging as well as fuel, chandlery, garbage pick-up, and 24-hour security. The latest addition is a courtesy dinghy used to pick up the port stern line of vessels coming in for a haul. This saves the vessel’s bow person from having to rush back to get the stern line ashore. CCBM is owned by Kelly Glass, a New Zealand native and long-time Caribbean businessman. Glass’s two sister companies make great getaways when a vessel is on the hard. One is the luxury Blue Lagoon Hotel and Marina in St. Vincent, and the other is the Bequia Plantation Hotel in Bequia. clarkescourtmarina.com
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine September 2016
There’s something for everyone at this year’s USVI Open/Atlantic Blue Marlin Tournament (ABMT) and MarlinFest set for August 13-19 in St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. For sports fishermen, the tournament boasts a new division for teams wanting to fish by International Game Fish Association (IGFA) rules rather than following the traditional special rules that call for anglers to rotate rods hourly. This later regulation, designed to truly measure the skill and luck of an individual fisherman, makes the 44-year-old ABMT a real man-against-beast competition, earning the title “Super Bowl of Sports Fishing.” “Contestants in the two divisions—team and angler—will face off against each other and compete for the same calcutta, Daily Awards and popular ‘Last Day Shootout’,” says director Jimmy Loveland. “However, only those fishing in the angler division are eligible to have their names engraved on the prestigious Ed Pang-designed ‘Straight Up’ trophy. It’s a really cutting-edge format and we’re proud be the first to launch it.” For spectators, MarlinFest gives fishing aficionados and their friends and family a spectacular menu of activities to enjoy while the fleet competes. There’s a welcome Sunset Party, day trips to the neighboring B.V.I., and a much-anticipated Arts, Crafts and Chowder Challenge, where visitors sample chowders and chefs compete for a top cash prize. abmt.vi
The Carib Great Race 2016
If you love offshore powerboat racing, head to the dual-island Caribbean country of Trinidad and Tobago to watch the Carib Great Race on August 20th. More than 30 racers in eight classes with speeds between 60 and 130 mph take their marks in front of the Trinidad and Tobago Yacht Club (TTYC) in Port of Spain, Trinidad, and travel 115 miles to see the flag fall in Scarborough, Tobago. Plenty of spectator-friendly viewing spots are along the way. In Trinidad, there’s the TTYC and Western Main Road in the Carenage area, and The Bocas is a great spot to watch from the sea. In Tobago, convenient vantage points are from Lowlands, Signal Hill or Bacolet Bay (1960 filming location of Walt Disney’s Swiss Family Robinson). The following festivities in Tobago are akin to a national holiday celebration. Although international competitors are welcome, most teams hail from Trinidad and Tobago. Powerboat-racing popularity surged in the island country from 2008-2012 due to the U.S. economic recession, which posed a unique opportunity for island racers to travel north for secondhand race boats at low prices. Boats set to compete this year include the 48-foot Skater Total Monster, the 50-foot Mystic Paramount and the 50-foot Victory Mr. Solo. “The young crews are getting involved by revamping the boats, which bodes well for powerboating in Trinidad and Tobago. We really hope we’ll see international entrants soon,” says Peter Peake, president of the Trinidad and Tobago Power Boat Association, whose Total Monster is a three-time winner. ttpba.net
New monohull models from The Moorings
Looking for something different in cruising? Check out the Clearwater, Florida-based The Moorings all-new monohull models intended for introduction to the B.V.I., St. Martin, St. Lucia, and Grenada this winter. New models include an ultra-spacious Beneteau-built Moorings 48.4 at all four Caribbean bases and the sophisticatedly styled Moorings 42.1 in St. Lucia and Grenada. moorings.com
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine August 2016
Enjoy island-style partying during St. Lucia’s Carnival celebrations taking place throughout the month. The fun kicks off on July 2nd and runs through July 19th, with shows, events and parades filling the streets of St. Lucia’s capital city, Castries. In between the festivities, the Kings and Queens of the Band competition entertains with dancers wearing huge, extravagant costumes that take an entire year to construct. This competition is held at the National Cultural Centre, inland from Castries Harbor. If you appreciate steel pan music, head further inland to the Darren Sammy National Cricket Stadium for the National Panorama Competition on July 15th. Located near Gros Islet, the stadium is only a 5-minute drive or 30-minute walk from Island Global Yachting’s 253-slip Rodney Bay Marina. The official event website (stluciacarnival.com) is a great resource, but be sure to call the Carnival Planning Management Agency (758-452-5646) for the most up-to-date event information. For tips on yachting navigation and anchorages, browse avid Caribbean cruiser Frank Virgintino’s free online cruising guides, particularly the guide to the Lesser Antilles, Vol. III: The Windward Islands, which has a wealth of up-to-date information on St. Lucia. freecruisingguides.com
Multi-island poker run
Hands down, powerboating rallies called Poker Runs are surging in popularity throughout the Caribbean. This month, the second Annual SXM Poker Run takes place on July 24th out of the Port de Plaisance Marina, a 90-slip facility in Simpson Bay, St. Maarten. “We expect 30 to 50 boats coming from St. Maarten as well as the B.V.I., U.S.V.I., Guadeloupe, Martinique, and [we hope], the U.S. mainland,” says event organizer, Colin Conner. The five-stop run begins with the first card pickup in Great Bay, Phillipsburg, St. Maarten. Next, the fleet cruises north to Grand Case, St. Martin. Watch the sleek powerboats roar in and join the crews for a chicken, ribs and lobster lunch at the famous beachside barbecue shack, Lolo’s. Next, card picks three and four take the fleet north to the breathtaking Rendezvous Bay and the village of Sandy Ground on the neighboring island of Anguilla. The fifth card stop is back in St. Maarten at Mullet Bay, and then everyone returns to the Port de Plaisance Marina for the prize announcements and a party. A total of up to $5,000 is designated for the winner. “Next year, we plan to add a land race division as well so [that] more people can participate,” says Conner. sxmpokerrun.com
Maritime history in Bequia
The seven-square-mile island of Bequia, the second largest island in the Grenadines located south of St. Vincent and north of Grenada, is a treasure trove of nautical history. It’s known as the model boat capital of the world, and is home to several boating workshops around the island, including the Sargeant Brothers Model Boat Shop in Port Elizabeth. Here, with handheld tools such as chisels and machetes, the Lawson brothers convert locally grown white pine into extraordinarily detailed vessels, including a 5-foot replica of the Royal Yacht Britannia. Models at the shop are for both show and sale. Nearby, the Bequia Maritime Museum boasts an intriguing collection of art and artifacts, including aged photos of the island’s whaling past. If you’re up for a hike, explore the ruins of the 18th-century Fort Hamilton where old cannons rest and a panoramic view of the harbor reigns. bequiatourism.com
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine July 2016
Kids from around the Caribbean and world will head to St. Thomas, U.S.V.I., June 13 to 19, for the International Optimist Regatta (IOR) presented by EMS Virgin Islands and the TOTE Maritime Clinic and Team Race. The big draw this year is the chance to use this event as a tune-up for the Optimist North American Championships, which take place in Antigua, July 10 to 18. The perennially favorite feature of the IOR is an opportunity for junior sailors, both novices and advanced, to participate in a three-day clinic taught by top Opti coaches. Add a chance to team race and then fleet race some of the best local, regional and international sailors, plus delight in a destination where younger siblings can play on the beach, and moms and dads can enjoy some family-friendly sightseeing, watersports and dining, and you’ve got one great summer sailing vacation. styc.club/international-optimist-regatta.html
Summer sailing camps
Swap a tent for a boat at one of the many Caribbean-based sailing camps each summer. Sail Caribbean, based in Northport, New York, offers a number of adventures designed for students 11 to 22 years of age. The Alpha two-week program provides junior high and high school students with a chance to learn to sail aboard a 50-foot monohull in the B.V.I. Days are also filled with watersports such as snorkeling and wakeboarding, hands-on marine biology lessons, and hikes ashore on deserted islands and cays. The cost is $3,995 per camper. Those looking for a longer cruise can sign up for the Caribbean Arc Sailing Voyage, a 31-day camp for high schoolers offered by Raleigh, North Carolina-based Broadreach, Inc. This 500-nautical-mile passage starts in St. Martin and ends in Grenada. Along the way, campers can earn several International Yacht Training (IYT) sailing certifications. The cost is $6,480 to $7,280 per camper. School may be out, but camps like these provide incredible life-skills learning experiences for kids. sailcaribbean.com; gobroadreach.com
Summer sailing school
Families can go back to school together by taking one of the region’s many fun learn-to-sail courses. For example, Grenada Bluewater Sailing (GBS) offers a number of classes under the Royal Yachting Association (RYA) scheme aboard its Beneteau Oceanis 461. “Dad or Mom will normally aim for the Day Skipper qualification (minimum age 16) while the kids take the Competent Crew course (no age minimum),” says GBS’s Polly Philipson. Both courses run 5-7 days and cost $1,060 to $1,345 per person, respectively. OnDeck Antigua offers a 2-day beginner Start Yachting course with a choice of living aboard or ashore, and a 5-day liveaboard beginner Competent Crew course, both on Dehler 39s. There is no age restriction on either of these courses as long as a family books the whole boat. Otherwise, Start Yachting is for those ages 16 and older. Rates start at $940 per person for five days. “Learning to sail is a great family holiday,” says OnDeck Antigua owner Peter Anthony. “It’s not all hard work. There is plenty of time for relaxation, and often families will book a night or two shoreside at either end to sightsee the island.” grenadabluewatersailing.com; ondecksailing.com
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine June 2016
Cruisers migrating north for the summer may want to join the Spring Salty Dawg Rally. The rally, free to sailors with blue water experience under their belts, departs on May 15th from the B.V.I. en route to Bermuda and the U.S. east coast’s Chesapeake Bay. “We find cruisers particularly like the Spring Rally because it is a safe way to return to the U.S. for the summer,” says rally spokesman Hank George, who with wife Seale are long term “dawgs” and sail the rally aboard their performance catamaran Flash. “The spring rally especially allows cruisers to build on the friendships made and good times they’ve experienced over the winter cruising with other Salty Dawgs. Plus, it’s a great way for new dawgs to experience the rally.”
New this year, the Spring rally offers an expanded set of activities in the B.V.I. prior to launch. Included is a gathering in North Sound, Virgin Gorda, for musician Michael Beans’ pirate show at the Leverick Bay Resort, and dinner at the famed Bitter End Yacht Club. The fun continues to the west at Nanny Cay Marina in Tortola with a pizza party, beach BBQ and weather briefings by Chris Parker as well as final preparations for the cruise. Bristol, Rhode Island residents and long-time cruisers Bill and Linda Knowles, along with their namesake Salty Dawg, a Jack Russell terrier named Brie, founded the nonprofit Salty Dawg rallies in 2011. Since then, more than 470 boats and 1,880 sailors have participated. saltydawgrally.org
The dying art of Caribbean boatbuilding
Little did Alexis Andrews know that purchasing an old Carriacou sloop that had sunk off Antigua back in 1997 would change his life. Rebuilding this West Indian-style wooden boat and sailing it 300 miles south to meet its original maker launched him on an incredible journey. Now, after 15 years of research and 3 years of filming, the Greek native, long-time Antiguan and professional cinematographer has released his 88-minute feature film Vanishing Sail: The story of a Caribbean tradition. This documentary vibrantly illustrates the nearly lost art of boatbuilding on the island of Carriacou, a tradition that started when Scottish settlers arrived in the 19th century to this Grenadine island located north of Grenada. Inter-island trading served as the lifeblood in the southern Caribbean for centuries.
The storyline follows elder, Alwyn Enoe, who uses all of his family’s resources to build one last boat and hopefully incentivizes his sons to keep this seafaring tradition alive. In his final push, Enoe wants to finish the sloop in time to race in the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta (ACYR). There’s no spoiler alert here. This is a must-see film if you’re a lover of nautical history and native boats. Vanishing Sail is being screened on April 17th in front of the Copper and Lumber Store in Nelson’s Dockyard, Antigua, as part of the ACYR and will debut to its world premiere at the St. Barths Film Festival, as part of the West Indies Regatta on April 30th in Gustavia, St. Barths. vanishingsail.com
— By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine May 2016
The 35-square-mile island of Anguilla sits right in the middle of the Caribbean’s prime megayacht cruising grounds, with the U.S. and B.V.I. to the north and St. Maarten and St. Barths to the south. Yet, it’s a destination without adequate dockage for these large yachts. Anchoring out and a dinghy ride in is the only way to visit Anguilla’s incredible beaches, five-star resorts and not-yet-overcommercialized island vibe—a movie star’s magnet. This is about to change with the construction of the island’s first megayacht marina at the existing Altamer Resort, a plan that has been on the drawing board for years. Now, in the wake of the resort’s acquisition by New York-based Time Equities and the partnership with Anaconda Holdings—whose chairman Jeff Boyd was instrumental in the creation of St. Maarten’s Princess Port de Plaisance, Yacht Club at Isle de Sol and Portofino Marina—a megayacht marina on Anguilla is to become a reality. Plans call for dockage capable of accommodating yachts from 30- to 200-feet LOA. The marina will also serve as an official port of entry. Marina guests will be able to enjoy all the amenities at the Altamer Resort, a boutique villa property located on the island’s west end at Shoal Bay. The final design stages for the marina wrapped up in late 2015, however, no date has been set for completion. Future plans call for a restaurant, promenade, duty-free shopping, and a 164-unit resort.
Grenada’s first-ever music festival
Seaside venues and an exciting program of local and international artists are the main attractions at the first-ever Pure Grenada Music Festival set for April 5-10. Cruisers donated their old sails to make shaded areas around the Festival Village, which will be located on the spacious green at the Port Louis Marina along with the main stage. At the Festival’s conclusion the sails will go to local workboat owners. The 170-slip, full-service, Port Louis marina is host to the opening night performance featuring Grammy Award-winning pop and R&B superstar, Estelle. Reggae Night and Rhythm and Soul Night happens at Port Louis, too, where the headline acts are Grammy-winning reggae band Steele Pulse and chart topper, Joss Stone. The most exciting night for nautical types is the Rock De Boat concert set on a floating stage in picturesque St. George’s harbor. Canadian duo, Madison Violet, will perform its hit version of These Ships, and Guadeloupe’s Erik Pedurand will present his award-winning island Creole tunes. grenadamusicfestival.com
Antigua’s Granddaddy of Caribbean racing
Catch the action from Antigua Sailing Week with the “Granddaddy of Caribbean Regattas” on April 22-30 at the Antigua Yacht Club in English Harbour. The best vantage point to watch the racing from shore is at Shirley Heights Lookout, where a special regatta breakfast party is set for April 24th. See the sailing by sea aboard the Wadadli Cats on a chase-the-race charter. Not in Antigua? No worries. Results will be posted in real time on sailingweek.com.
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine April 2016
