How to Wire a T-Top

How to Wire a T-Top

Here’s how to wire a T-Top and free up console space.

While there never seems to be enough space on boats, the dilemma is particularly true for owners of small to midsized center consoles. With the explosion of must-have electronic doodads on the market today, owners seem to find themselves constantly struggling with limited installation options for even the basics: VHF radios, GPS units, multifunction displays, etc.

Center consoles equipped with a T-top provide additional mounting options and owners typically take advantage of this new real estate by installing an overhead electronics box. The hardest part for most DIYers tackling this project will be routing the cables and wires to the new box. Some take the easy way out by simply fastening wire bundles and cables to the outside of the tubing, but routing them internally provides both protection and a neater, more professional-looking installation.

The Basics of wiring a T-top

Routing wires through the maze of aluminum or stainless steel tubing may look like the water-born equivalent of a Rubik’s Cube, but with a little planning, it’s fairly straightforward if you simply step back and visualize the installation prior to starting. Once you’ve planned the route and (as necessary) drilled your entry and exit holes, the next step is installing the wires. While there are a number of options available for pulling wires when you wire a T-Top, the most common one is using an electrician’s “fish tape” or snake.

Snakes must be stiff enough to maintain their shape while pushing, yet supple enough to twist around curves and sharp bends. Snakes made of tempered wire are commonly used and can be purchased at most hardware stores; however, newer, more flexible units of fiberglass or other composite materials also are available.

Like this DIY project? Here’s how to install rod holders on your center console. 

Regardless of which style you choose, the snake’s ability to make the turns and bends easily reduces or eliminates the number of additional holes needed to facilitate installation. The first step is feeding the snake through with no wiring attached. Once this is completed, attach the cable or wire bundle to the bitter end of the snake as streamlined as possible with tightly wrapped electrical tape so the wires can make it through the piping without too much difficulty.

When you wire a T-Top, carefully pull the bundle through and gently manipulate it around bends. In addition to wire snakes, other options I’ve used with varying degrees of success range from weighted strings to using a shop vac. The former involves simply feeding a string weighted with a sinker or small washer into the top hole of the tubing. Let gravity carry it down to the exit hole. For the shop vac trick, tie a piece of tissue, cotton ball or a foam earplug to the string. Then, feed it into the top hole while holding the shop vac intake hose at the bottom hole (you may have to use duct tape to get a good seal). When you have the string through, use it to thread a pull wire, such as heavy fishing line or weed-wacker filament, to pull the wires through.

Drilling Tips

At some point during your installation, you may have to drill some holes, either at an electronics box or at individual mounts. For wire runs with multiple turns, it may also be necessary to drill a small pilot hole at the second turn (depending on how sharp it is) to guide the snake along the correct path. Aluminum is softer and easier to drill than stainless steel; however, you’ll want to use a metal center punch to prevent the drill bit from walking as you start drilling.

Use a good quality, sharp drill bit for the best results. If larger diameter holes are required, a hole saw may be a better option. In either case, slower drill speeds will provide more control. Drill holes in areas of low mechanical stress where possible. Drill in horizontal tubes, and remove sharp edges using a deburring tool or rat tail file to prevent damage to wire insulation while pulling.

Wire Pulling 101

When pulling wires, use a firm, steady motion and always pull at the flattest angle possible to the tubing to reduce friction. This approach also puts less stress on the wire and minimizes the chance of tearing or damaging the wire. A solution of soapy water can be applied (to allow the wires to slip through the tube with minimal resistance); however, some folks worry that soap can ruin the insulation or possibly cause corrosion. A better idea is to purchase special wire pulling lubricant, such as 3M’s Wire Pulling Lubricant Gel.

When you wire a t-top with larger wire bundles, you may want to stagger the wires where attached to the snake. This both reduces the profile of the joint and makes it easier to pull around tight bends. Finally, include and leave an extra pull string in place when pulling the wire bundle to assist with future installations.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating June 2019

Regulator 25 Center Console

The Regulator 25 Center Console (LOA: 25′ 2″, Beam: 8′ 10″) comes equipped to fish the canyons in comfort, while offering everyday fun for the family. The newly enhanced 2017 Regulator 25 delivers big boat features, including a walk-through tuna door, T-top with surfboard edge and SeaStar Solutions® Optimus Electronic Power Steering with tilt helm.

The 25 CC is equipped with a full range of fisherman favorites, such as a 46-gallon transom livewell/fish box, 408-quart in-deck fishbox and abundant storage. In addition, there is a 64-quart cooler in the console seat, a standard head and spacious seating. The boat’s deep-V design with 24-degree deadrise helps it handle rough water, and an extremely rugged molded fiberglass stringer system adds an enormous amount of strength to the hull. When powered by twin Yamaha F200 four-stroke engines, the boat runs to a top speed of 50.6 mph and cruises at 31.2 mph.

regulatormarine.com

Return to the Center Console Roundup.

Hunt 26CC

The Hunt 26CC (25’ LOA, 9’ beam) is a sporty center console that doesn’t skimp on sophistication. With plush social seating for 12 guests and ample storage for gear and food, the 26CC is made for fishing at dawn, cocktails at sunset and everything in between.

Specifically designed and engineered to handle three different types of propulsion—inboard gas, inboard diesel and outboard gas engines—the 26CC can run up to 43 knots depending upon the chosen power. The 26CC’s teak swim platform with stainless steel ladder and transom door makes boarding a breeze, and a spacious interior features 6 feet of standing headroom with a shower, sink and head. Deluxe ergonomic helm seats with adjustable bolsters ensure the ride is comfortable, while the single-level walk-around cockpit is safe, secure and simplifies maneuvers like docking and anchoring.

The Hunt 26CC’s sportfishing features include an insulated forward fish well, in-transom livewell, insulated fishbox in port bow locker, insulated under-seat cooler, ample rod storage and optional lockable fly rod storage. In addition to a wide choice of power, options include a T-top, aft stern seat, windlass, outriggers, rocket launcher style rod holders, bow thruster, and full electronics package.

huntyachts.com; (401) 324-4201

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating Magazine July 2016

Hunt Yachts 32cc

Hunt’s classy new center console transitions effortlessly from deep-sea fishing adventures to posh evenings at the yacht club

It was a cold and gray early winter afternoon outside the Hunt Yachts factory in Portsmouth, Rhode Island, so Peter Van Lancker, Hunt president, and I put on extra fleece and heavy coats before we headed for the docks to test the new Hunt 32cc. Minutes later, however, as we cruised down Narragansett Bay, our weather concerns were long gone. For one thing, we were protected on three sides by the large helm console in this prize-winning boat. For another, as I nudged the throttles forward to a top speed of just over 48 knots, the adrenaline rush made up for all the heat we needed.

Despite the cold, the water was relatively flat this afternoon, so we weren’t able to give Hunt’s iconic deep-V hull a rough-weather test. But I’ve cruised on a lot of Hunts over the years, from Florida to Maine in all kinds of conditions, and I know that Hunt hulls, originally designed by C. Raymond Hunt (think Bertram 31), deserve their outstanding reputation for speed, seakindliness and safety. I have no reason to believe that this 32-foot center console, with a 23-degree deadrise at the transom, would behave any differently. Indeed, as I steered the wheel over into a sharp turn at 40 knots, this classic beauty simply dug in and carved an arc in the water without missing a beat.

Named “Best Overall Powerboat” at the 2015 Newport boat show, the Hunt 32cc is more than just one more entry in a crowded market. A center console with a touch of class, the boat boasts Hunt’s elegant downeast lines, gold cove stripe, just enough teak, and a dark blue hull. The result is an easy-to-use, easy-to-put away boat that’s just as much at home heading for a day of offshore fishing as it is lining up for the yacht club cruise. You can also use it for diving, a picnic, a day cruise, or even as a tender to a megayacht (the Hunt 32 would fit in perfectly in the harbor at Monaco, delivering guests to an evening of gambling at the Monte-Carlo Casino).

In designing the 32cc, Hunt has tapped into the growing center console market, as many buyers are opting for hassle-free boats they actually use and enjoy, as well as into the expanding outboard-powered market, as outboards have become more powerful, more fuel-efficient and easier to use, maintain, and (when necessary) replace. Standard power on the Hunt 32 is twin 250-hp Yamahas, but our boat this afternoon had twin 300-hp Yamahas.

Other center consoles, of course, also have outboard power, and some also have built-in heads or small sleeping areas below. But the Hunt 32cc is exceptional in packing a true cabin below with standing headroom including an enclosed head, a single berth and what the company calls “a galleyette” to prepare quick meals on board. To make room for this, the large helm console is offset slightly to port while the center console’s traditional walkaround area is on the starboard side.

The easiest access to the boat is to climb on the teak-covered swim platform. A sturdy transom door opens on the starboard side to the cockpit, where a bench seat is centered against the transom. It folds away if you want a larger cockpit area for fishing. A door in the port side is an option for diving or water sports.

Walking forward, the bow area has a big fairly plush upholstered wraparound settee that could hold eight people; an optional varnished teak table is available for drinks or lunch. The wraparound handrail around the seating area is recessed for safety. For fishing, an insulated fish box is under the port lounge; you can slide a fully rigged rod into a compartment in the starboard side.

The large helm station protected by a standard T-top and surrounding acrylic non-scratch windows, is comfortable, ergonomic and user-friendly. Two people fit with room to spare at the helm in oversized seats with adjustable bolsters and armrests. The seat base flips up for a leaning post with side bolsters. The helm pod is varnished teak and there’s also a teak footrest. Two Garmin 15-inch MFD screens provide all the usual plotter and nav data. Buyers have two choices for the large console section aft of the seats. The entertaining version offers an electric grill, drawers and stowage cabinets, while the fishing version includes a 30-gallon livewell, sink, bait stations, and tackle and knife stowage.

Access below deck is via a large, lockable sliding door on the port side and down one teak step.  The aft-facing door means that the helmsman can keep track of anyone going below—children for example. “It’s family friendly,” said Van Lancker. “That’s what this boat is all about.” The head, which can be enclosed with a bi-fold door for privacy, is to starboard. The head has a molded sink with pull-out shower (there’s another shower in the transom), Corian countertop, a fresh-water toilet feeding into a 15-gallon holding tank, a mirror and a towel rack. It’s a real head, in other words, in a 32-foot center console.

The “galleyette” to port includes an icebox and optional microwave. (If you want the microwave you have to order the optional inverter to power it.) The full-length berth is forward and extends under the foredeck. It’s a great place for an adult or a couple of kids to take a nap and is covered with Sunbrella fabric. Surprisingly, the cabin is filled with light due to a flush, fixed window across the front of the console and an opening port above the galleyette.

The hull lives up to Hunt’s legacy. It’s built with solid E-glass bottom laminate with Vinylester osmosis barrier and foam-cored topsides. Like other Hunts, the 32 is a dry boat, with lots of flare in the bow. The sharp entry, strakes and chine flats also direct water aft. Under way, the acceleration is fantastic. Nail the throttles and the G-force will push you back in the bolster. Carving high-speed turns is simply fun.

Hunt’s adrenaline-pumping performance is one thing; the 32’s outstanding fit and finish are another. If anything, this area has even improved since Hinckley bought the company.

As we climbed off the boat back at the dock, I asked Van Lancker if Hunt was planning a larger version of the 32cc. He was somewhat noncommittal on that, but he was certain of one thing: “You definitely can expect to see more outboards on Hunts in the future.”

By Peter Janssen, Southern Boating Magazine March 2016

SPECIFICATIONS

Hunt 32cc  

LOA: 32′ 1″

Beam: 10′ 6″

Draft: 2′ 1″ (to props)

Weight: 9,000 lbs.

Fuel/Water: 235/25 U.S. gals.

Power: 2x 250-hp Yamaha outboards

Optional Power: 2x 300-hp Yamaha outboards

Cruise/Top speed: (with 300-hp engines) 35 knots/48 knots

MSRP(base): $269,000

CONTACT:
Hunt Yachts
1909 Alden Landing
Portsmouth, RI 02871
(401) 683-3691
huntyachts.com 

Cobia 277 CC

The all-new Contender 22 Sport was introduced this year to round out Contender’s small boat lineup and is the smallest boat offered in the fleet. The 22 Sport (22’6″ LOA, 8’6″ beam) offers the tournament-class fishability that Contender is known for while including features and options that allow for family and entertainment activities. Built in Homestead, Florida, the 22 Sport not only comes standard with forward and aft seating but also has a step-down side-entry console with an optional head. For anglers, there’s a 26-gallon transom livewell, three large insulated fish boxes and plenty of other insulated storage.

Power options range from a single Yamaha 250-hp or 300-hp outboard engine to twin-engine configurations from 115 to 150 horsepower. With a single Yamaha F250 outboard engine, the 22 Sport runs to a top speed of 55.5 mph at 5900 rpm. The aft deck provides ample room for fishing, and the use of covering boards and bolster pads along the gunwales protect your knees while fighting a fish. Recessed cleats and bow rails around the boat help ensure snag-free fishing while providing a yacht-like finish. Options include a hardtop instead of the standard T-top, freshwater and saltwater washdowns, and an optional cooler for under the leaning post. (305) 230-600; contenderoffshore.com

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating Magazine, July 2015

Exit mobile version