How to Install LED Lights on Your Boat

When you install LED lights on your boat, you’ll boost the mood and lower your bill.

Light-emitting diode (LED) lights became popular in the early 2000s. Since then, prices have dropped and efficiency has increased. Today, more boat owners are switching over to LED lighting as their old incandescent and halogen bulbs burn out. Here’s how to install LED lights on your boat.

Leave it to the pros…maybe

While it makes sense to convert to LEDs, boaters should think about whether the job is DIY or one for a marine service professional.

“As simple as lighting sounds, it really is what you cannot see powering and controlling the lights that make every boat different,” explains Bobby Stone, vice president of DRSA in Riviera Beach, Florida. “For example, a sixty- five-foot Viking is completely different than a forty-foot Marlow. In most cases, the Marlow runs off a battery bank with an inverter, and the Viking has generators plus a few DC circuits.”

An electrical professional can determine the condition and layout of the wiring, input power specifications, check if transformers are in line, and how to install new switches, dimmers, or LED power supplies.

“If simply replacing the existing halogen or incandescent bulbs to LED, end users can do this themselves without requiring a technician,” says Petro Ploumis, president of Apex Lighting in Deerfield Beach, Florida. “We can either just sell the LED lights to the customer, or we can go on the boat to make a design plan and provide the installation as well. It all depends on what the customer wants and the planned budget.”

Selecting the lights

There are multiple factors to consider when selecting LED lighting. Those include light color temperature (Kelvin), desired light output (Lumens), dimming (if the bulbs or fixtures are replaced with LED lights and require dimming, an LED dimmer is necessary). Stone adds that the most common problem many people don’t realize is the low-voltage AC power going to their lights. They assume that because the voltage is 24V, it must be 24VDC. Some older boats have toroidal transformers that step voltage down from 120VAC or 220VAC to 12VAC or 24VAC. While there are LED products on the market that are sold as 12VAC or 24VAC, most will not last long-running at low-voltage AC. The components required to allow the LEDs to operate properly (rectifiers) are usually poor quality or not able to fit the smaller G4 LED bulbs on the market.

Another factor is if the boat has a lighting control system such as Lutron or Crestron. Consider a professional review to determine if additional control components are necessary in this case.

Three ways to install LED lights

Ploumis divides a lighting installation into three categories: Starter, Midrange, and All the Way.

“For the Starter, if the existing light fixtures are not very old and in good condition, we often recommend simply swapping out the halogen bulbs to LED,” he says. “This is as simple as replacing a burned-out halogen bulb and will typically cost around fifteen to twenty dollars.

“For the Midrange, you could remove the old fixtures and replace them with the same dimension LED versions,” he says. “This involves pulling down the old lights and splicing in the new lights. Each fixture will usually cost around seventy to one hundred-and-twenty dollars each.

“To go All the Way would include underwater lights, interior, and engine room,” says Ploumis. “We would suggest changing all the interior overhead lights to LED, engine room lights to LED, exterior ceiling lights to LED, the navigation lights to LED. You could add three to four LED underwater lights, such as the Lumitec Typhoon, Bluefin LED Mako, or OceanLED Explore.”

It’s a win-win

The energy savings, lower heat output, better light output, lower maintenance costs, and desired “wow” effect help the customer determine the value of converting to LED. For a 40-foot cruising vessel, the All the Way costs range from $5,000 to $15,000. However, that depends on the lights and options. For an 80-footer, the costs could be as high as $30,000. Generally, underwater lighting installations should be done by a professional.

“Seamless automation for LED lights is getting more popular,” says Ploumis. “In the past, each brand of LED lights needed its own proprietary dimmer or controller. Slowly, companies are coming out with controllers that can control all your lights seamlessly, just like home automation or systems in modern cars.” Yes, there are apps for that.

Check yourself

But, here’s a final note of caution when purchasing LED bulbs or light fixtures for marine applications. Consumers can find a multitude of options and prices online, so be aware that not all LEDs are the same. Not all can tolerate the fluctuations in voltage with a typical marine electrical system. A marine-grade LED bulb is rated and designed to handle voltage fluctuations up to 30VDC. Electronics on the circuit board incorporate rectifiers, capacitors, and DC-to-DC converters to protect the LED diodes.

“Carefully review all specifications before you buy,” says Stone. “In addition, not all marine electricians are experienced in LED conversions. Take care in selecting a qualified technician for your installation.”

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating August 2019

Soundproofing Your Boat

How to install soundproofing for quieter cruising

For most, boats are a way to escape the rat race of terrestrial life and an opportunity to enjoy time with family and friends on the water. Relaxing can be difficult, however, when you have to scream over engine or generator noise during conversations or while lying awake at night, listening to the melodious hum of an air conditioning unit. Installation of soundproofing can make a huge difference in onboard noise reduction. Here’s how to transform the hullabaloo of your boat into the peace and tranquility of a floating Zen garden.

The best way to combat noise is by containing it at the source—within an engine compartment, for example. Installation of a good-quality foam soundproofing barrier can reduce engine noise by 10-35 decibels (about 65 percent). Soundproofing material is available in a wide variety of forms, from sprays and paints to foil-backed foam panels. Foam panels are a popular choice and one that’s very effective against airborne noise pollution.

Self-adhesive panels are easy to install (just peel and stick), but you have to plan and position them exactly where you want them the first try, as once they’re in place, you typically can’t reposition them without damaging the foam. Non-adhesive backed panels require spray or brush-on contact adhesives. Most allow a bit of last-minute repositioning, making them easier to work with in tight spaces. Regardless of the adhesives used, panels also require the use of mechanical fasteners (such as screws and fender washers) particularly for overhead horizontal installations. (To prevent gripping and tearing of the foam, wax the screws by running them into a candle prior to use.)

Soft sound shields, such as this one from GSi, provide both installation flexibility and significant noise reduction.

Soundproofing panels can be cut to shape with a box cutter or razor knife but a serrated knife blade will provide a cleaner cut of the foam material itself. Thin sheets of soundproofing material can also be cut with a pair of quality scissors. To ensure the best fit (and avoid cutting snafus), make cardboard templates first to check fit and for use as a cutting guide. Be sure to dry-fit everything prior to applying adhesives or peeling self-adhesive panels.

When planning your installation, remember that sound flows like water meaning you’ll want to use special seal or joining tape that’s provided by the manufacturer to prevent “leaks” at panel joints, etc.

Cables and hoses penetrating the material should be sealed using tight-fitting rubber grommets, while any access hatches should close snugly with a good, tight seal. That being said, any soundproofing installation must provide adequate ventilation for the engine. Required vents and air holes can be quieted using air baffles.

It’s not realistic to expect all noise to be eliminated once soundproofing is installed, but when done correctly you should be able to carry on a conversation at normal volume levels and you’ll notice your cruising becomes much more serene. After all, who wants to yell when trying to relax? Namaste!

Installation tips:

• Read all instructions (soundproofing, adhesives, etc) before starting your project.

• Make templates to check fit prior to cutting panels. Be sure to allow for material thickness at corners.

• Ensure your installation provides adequate ventilation and keeps insulation material above bilge water levels. (Avoid exposure to any wet areas.)

• Provide a minimum clearance of six inches between soundproofing and engine or generator exhaust manifolds.

• Use sharp tools when cutting sound proofing in order to produce clean cuts and also to avoid tearing of reflective foil. The foil or silver facing side should face upward when cutting.

• Handle soundproofing material carefully and avoid folding the material back on itself, which can cause creasing.

• Seal all exposed edges with seam tape to prevent water or other contaminates (fumes, oil, etc.) from entering and degrading sound proofing material.

• Don’t rely on adhesives alone. Use fasteners where appropriate (all overhead and vertical surfaces) to ensure backup in the event of adhesive failure.

• Apply adhesive for and install one panel at a time. Install the top panel first, which lets adjacent vertical panels provide support to the outer edges of the top panel.

• Use seam tape to seal exposed joints and corners. Seam tape can also be used to provide chafe protection at wear points.

— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine April 2017

Clean on Demand: Installing a Deck Washdown System

Add a deck washdown system for a squeaky clean boat.

As a marine surveyor I’ve often wondered why many boat manufacturers don’t include a deck washdown system as standard equipment. After all, the “stuff” a boat owner has to deal with—from fish blood to the fragrant evidence that Uncle Joe had one too many margaritas last night—is easier to remove sooner rather than later back at the dock, after it has dried to a concrete-like consistency. In addition, rinsing your anchor chain prior to storage not only reduces corrosion (particularly in the case of freshwater washdowns) but also keeps the un-hygienic smell of Davy Jones’ gym locker from permeating the entire boat. Installing a washdown system is easily within the ability of most any DIY’er. Here’s how to make it happen:

Water supply options
Start by planning out your entire installation (hose runs, pump location, power supply, etc.) before drilling holes. Consider the washdown system’s water source. Most are plumbed as a “raw water” system utilizing the water your boat is in. In the case of saltwater fed systems, this means you’ll still want to deal with the salty residue left behind once back at the dock (to avoid corrosion issues), but in my opinion, a salty boat is better than a nasty one any day.

A second option is tapping into the boat’s freshwater system. This will typically limit the amount of water you can use (based on tank size) but does have the advantage of reducing the effects of corrosion on metal components via freshwater washdowns.

A third option is plumbing your system to draw from both. This gives you an unlimited supply of saltwater to power off grime, plus the option of a final freshwater rinse with minimal drain on your potable water supply.

Freshwater washdown systems are plumbed into the freshwater system at some convenient point (possibly near the tank). Raw water systems require either a dedicated thru-hull or connection via a “T” fitting into an existing raw water system hose.

Using an existing thru-hull is the most common route, as most owners tend to shy away from cutting additional holes in their boats. It also has the added benefit of allowing you to complete the installation with the boat in the water by simply shutting the seacock of the raw water system you’re tapping into.

Choosing a pump
Pump selection (and adequate water flow) are the most crucial aspects of the system. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to power off anchor chain crud with a wimpy stream of water. The trick is finding a moderately priced pump that not only provides adequate pressure with minimal power draw but can also stand up to the marine environment.

A typical deck washdown pump’s output pressure ranges from 3-12 GPM (gallons per minute) with prices of $100 or less to over $1,000. Buying a deck washdown package (a kit that includes pump, deck fitting, deck hose, etc.) will often save money. Also, the pump’s warranty can vary from one to three years—the longer coverage period, the better, of course.

Installation considerations
When selecting a location for your washdown pump, choose an accessible area well above where bilge water accumulates. The pump should also be between the water supply and planned deck outlet, ideally as close as possible to its power source to simplify wiring runs. As pumps are more efficient at pushing water than pulling, the location should also be as close as possible to the supply thru-hull or freshwater tank.

Be sure the pump installation itself is in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and that it includes an intake strainer between the pump and water supply in order to prevent pump damage due to debris.

Pumps vary in their ability to self-prime or lift water vertically in order to start pumping. Some are rated at 8-9 feet, while others may only be able to overcome 2 feet of “head” when pumping. Make sure the location you’ve chosen doesn’t exceed the pump’s self-priming ability.

If installing a freshwater-only washdown system, don’t be tempted to simply cut into the system and use your existing freshwater pump. You can do it, but don’t expect too much from such an install. Pumps used in freshwater systems weren’t designed to move large amounts of water quickly and lack the pressure of a good washdown pump. When planning your install you’ll also need to figure out where to locate the deck outlet. Most folks simply mount it on the foredeck (close to the anchor) as cleaning ground tackle is often viewed as its primary job, however there’s no rule saying you have to put it there.

Regardless of where you decide to install the outlet, make sure you have enough space beneath the deck to accommodate the hose and associated fittings and that you won’t be drilling into anything unexpected (wiring or cables) while cutting the mounting hole. Seal the edges of the hole with thickened epoxy when cutting through cored decks (balsa, plywood, etc.) to prevent water intrusion into the core (and rot) later on. Bedding the fitting with a suitable marine caulking will help in this regard as well.

Installation of a pressurized washdown system is an excellent return for a relatively small investment of time and money. Cleanups after raising the anchor will be a cinch, and you’ll find so many other uses for the system—hosing off the dog, rinsing the dingy, giving the kids a bath—you’ll wonder how you ever got along without it.

— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine November 2016

Quick, Get Back in the Boat!

Installing a boarding ladder? If you’re an avid cruiser, you’ll need one! Spend time at any yacht club tiki bar and you’re bound to hear the tale of a cruising couple, an impulsive mid-ocean swim, the inability to climb back on board, and the telltale fingernail marks found later on the transom of the unmanned vessel.

In an effort to keep you from becoming the fodder of such sea stories, here’s the scoop on choosing and installing a boarding ladder on your vessel so that you can safely enter and exit the water from the deck or swim platform. Boarding ladders also make it easier to board a dinghy and assist in retrieval of personnel in a crew overboard (COB) situation in calmer waters.

Boarding ladders should be constructed from non-corroding materials such as plastic, aluminum or stainless steel. Aluminum ladders weigh less and are cheaper, whereas stainless steel ladders are stronger and more durable. Boarding ladders can be fixed or portable and come in a variety of styles. However, for the purpose of this article, we’ll concentrate on three types: Swim step ladders, transom ladders and removable ladders.

Swim step ladders
These are typically mounted to a power boat’s swim platform. However, installation of a swim platform ladder is an option for smaller vessels (those powered by outboards or I/O drives, for example) that typically don’t have space for a full transom platform. Due to their proximity to the water, both units normally require no more than three steps to meet the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) requirement regarding extension into the water. When not in use the ladders can either fold up onto the swim platform itself or telescope out of the way underneath.

Transom ladders
These are hinged units typically found on sailboats. Many ladders are constructed so that they become an integral part of the stern railing or pushpit when raised and secured in place. When lowered, they provide an opening in the stern railing and a means of entering and exiting the water. Transom ladders designed as part of the stern pulpit are generally factory installations, but aftermarket units can often be easily installed depending on the vessel’s transom configuration.

Removable ladders
These units, as opposed to portable ladders, are attached using permanently mounted brackets. These brackets are typically bolted to the gunwales or deck of a vessel and utilize keyhole slots, cotter pins or some similar arrangement that allow them to be easily installed and removed when not in use. Some units are rigid one-piece units, while others are hinged so that they can be folded up rather than removed when not in use. Others still are telescoping or even accordion-style units, which can be adjusted to facilitate boarding a dinghy or fully extended for water entry or exit.

Mounting considerations
ABYC standards state that all boats must have a means of unassisted re-boarding that must be accessible to and deployable by a person in the water. ABYC also calls for each boarding ladder to be able to withstand a vertical downward static load of 400 pounds without permanent deformation in excess of 1/4 inch, and for the top surface of the lowest step to be at least 12 inches below the waterline with the boat in a static floating position. In general, ladders should be located at a spot that makes the vessel easy to board such as the side of a sailboat adjacent to the lifeline. If the ladders are mounted on the stern, they should be installed as far as practical from the propellers.

Installation tips
As with any project, the first step is to thoroughly read and understand the manufacturer’s instructions. Next, visualize the installation and do a “dry run” in order to identify and address potential problems beforehand. Does the location you’ve chosen for the ladder meet manufacturer and ABYC recommendations? Are the mounting hardware and backing plates sufficiently robust, and can they be reached on both sides for tightening?

Ladder installation on a swim platform is typically a straightforward affair. For installations that require drilling into the hull, always verify what’s on the other side before drilling in order to avoid collateral damage to equipment, wire runs or Aunt Martha’s picture. You’ll also want to ensure all mounting hardware is properly bedded with a suitable marine-grade sealant, and that when holes are drilled through any cored portions of the hull or deck, the exposed coring is properly sealed to prevent moisture entry.

Even when properly installed, some of the above ladders may fail to meet the ABYC requirement for easy deployment by a person in the water, particularly those that should be removed and stowed while underway. One possible solution is the installation of an emergency boarding ladder. These units, typically some form of rope ladder utilizing rigid steps, are collapsible, lightweight and can be easily installed on most boats. Most are stored in a canvas bag and deployed by a grab rope hanging just above the waterline.

Rope ladders are convenient emergency ladders due to their compactness and flexibility. However, they’re harder to climb than rigid units, making them less than ideal as primary boarding ladders. If installed, it’s always a good idea to test deployment and ease of use in calm waters before they’re actually needed. One trick that can make them easier to board is weighting the lowest rung of the ladder to ensure it fully extends when deployed. Finally, while many cruisers likely plan on using their boarding ladders during a COB recovery situation, preparation should include various scenarios such as recovery of an incapacitated victim. It’s crucial that COB and recovery drills are not only understood by all on board but also practiced on a regular basis. They should also include captain and crew role reversals, to ensure recovery can take place if the captain or crew is incapacitated.

— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine December 2016