Your complete Spanish Virgin Islands cruising guide
Have you been longing for a tropical island vacation complete with uncrowded stretches of beach, gentle sea breezes, near-empty anchorages, rare flora and fauna, and world-class snorkeling—all without leaving the United States, no passport required? It might sound impossible, but it’s all waiting for you in the “secret” Spanish Virgin Islands (SVI).
Even among salty sailors, the SVI are relatively unknown. And as lovely as the other Virgin Islands are, they can’t touch the SVI for pure, unspoiled, natural beauty, lack of crowds, and ease of travel. For the nature-lovers, solitude-seekers, and budding explorers among you, consider adding the SVI to your bucket list.
So exactly where is this elusive paradise? The Spanish Virgin Islands are Puerto Rico’s pristine chain of islands located just to the east of the mainland and approximately 20 nautical miles of pleasant downwind sailing from Dream Yacht’s charter base in Compass Point Marina on St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands. Adding to the convenience of easy travel from the U.S. is that the local currency of the SVI is the U.S. dollar (USD), and many locals speak English.
Also Read
Schaefer V44 Sport Boat Review: Lounge, Entertain, and Relax in Style
A sport boat that offers so much more for guests.Schaefer Yachts celebrates 32 years this November with more than 4,000...
A Spanish Virgin Islands sailing itinerary focuses on the offshore island chain that includes visits to the two larger main islands of Culebra and Vieques, as well as smaller islets and cays including Culebrita, Cayo Luis Pena, and Palomino Island. And, a sailing adventure is the perfect platform for island-hopping in this little-known sailor’s slice of heaven.
While sailing the SVI, keep your fishing poles and snorkel gear close by. The SVI is known for some of the most extraordinary snorkeling, diving, and fishing in all the Caribbean. And, if you fancy a lobster dinner, it’s good to know that lobster season lasts year-round.
Culebra
The quiet island of Culebra is roughly 22 miles due east of Puerto Rico and exploring from a yacht is best done from Ensenada Honda, a sleepy harbor that could be considered the unofficial sailing center of the SVI.
Culebra is a mere seven miles long and three miles wide, with only about 2,000 residents. Here, you can truly get away from it all, unplug, and reconnect with nature. There are no resorts, developments, shopping malls, or cruise ships. What you can find are stunning natural settings, miles of pristine beaches, hiking trails, snorkeling sites, friendly locals, and a taste of the “real” island life.
Subscribe Here For More Boating Content
The only town on Culebra is called Dewey, where there are a quirky, ramshackle collection of two-story wooden structures and a handful of bars and restaurants. Try the aptly named Dinghy Dock restaurant, a local favorite where large circling tarpons keep watch for leftover nibbles to hit the water. There isn’t much nightlife on Culebra, but Mamacita’s may be the closest thing to it. Classic Puerto Rican food and frosty cocktails are accompanied by live music on the weekends.
Culebra is probably most famous for its beaches, with Playa Flamenco being a standout. The powdery sands here make the Top Ten best beaches lists quite regularly—even at the international level! You can comfortably spend time here, lazing the day away with a good book. Start early with a coffee and empanada from the food kiosks, and finish the day with an ice-cold Medalla (Puerto Rican beer), fresh grilled fish, and a spectacular sunset.
If you’ve ever wanted to snorkel with sea turtles—and who wouldn’t—the beautiful and secluded beach called Playa Tamarindo is a good bet. Here, the waters are shallow, and rays and turtles can be seen feeding and frolicking in the sea grass. Most SVI cruising guides neglect to mention this favorite local spot.
Culebrita Wildlife Refuge
The small uninhabited island of Culebrita sits just to the east of her big sister Culebra and is one of the most beautiful in the SVI. The island is encircled in lovely beaches, and the whole island has been set aside as a wildlife refuge.
Visit Playa Tortuga, or Turtle Beach, where sea turtle sightings are common—four different species of sea turtles are known to nest here. It’s a beautiful stretch of beach to enjoy lunch, and the snorkeling on either side of the harbor is top notch and teeming with tropical fish.
A trail leads from Playa Tortuga to the 19th-century Culebrita Lighthouse. This National Historic Monument is crumbling and abandoned, yet adds to the remote feel of the island and makes for an interesting exploration. Efforts are underway to revitalize the lighthouse for visitors.
Cayo Luis Pena Nature Reserve
Cayo Luis Pena is a tiny island and nature reserve found just east of Culebra. You can’t spend the night here, but it’s a great place for lunch, hiking, and snorkeling. Start on the east side and follow the trail to the top of the hill and over to the west side, quite possibly meeting up with a few of the resident goats on your way.
Wear your sturdy shoes and bring a packed lunch because the west side of the island is where you’ll find a beautiful beach that you’ll most likely have to yourself for the day.
Vieques
At 20 miles long and four-and-a-half miles wide, Vieques is the largest island in the SVI and is distinctly different from its neighboring island of Culebra. The larger land mass and larger population make Vieques the place to be for the culinary and culturally minded visitor.
The beachside town of Esperanza is perfect for enjoying local cuisine, cocktails, and shopping. Try the open-air El Quenepo restaurant for a fully stocked bar and traditional Puerto Rican food, including Mofongo, made from green plantain and often topped with pork or seafood. Those seeking the hip crowd will enjoy El Blok on Esperanza’s main drag. The rooftop bar here is popular for its breathtaking 360-degree views.
While ashore, hail a taxi for a ride inland for sightings of the wild horses known as “Paso Fino” ponies. These beautiful descendants of horses used by Spanish Conquistadors can be found roaming the beaches and roadsides and have free reign of the island.
No Spanish Virgin Islands cruising guide would be complete without mentioning Mosquito Bay —the famous bioluminescent bay’s microorganisms emit a neon underwater glow when agitated. Reserve a nighttime kayaking tour to best experience this world-famous phenomena.
Also Read
Schaefer V44 Sport Boat Review: Lounge, Entertain, and Relax in Style
A sport boat that offers so much more for guests.Schaefer Yachts celebrates 32 years this November with more than 4,000...
Exploring St. Thomas, USVI
Following your charter, don’t miss the opportunity to explore the island of St. Thomas, known for its stunning beaches and excellent shopping.
Spend a day snorkeling and relaxing on the white sand of Magens Bay, often voted one of the top beaches in the Caribbean. For a more secluded experience, head to Morningstar Beach or Lindbergh Bay.
When you’ve had your fill of gorgeous beaches, take a stroll through Charlotte Amalie, the capital of the U.S. Virgin Islands. With cobblestone alleyways, stunning views, and historical sites like Fort Christian and the 99 Steps, it’s the perfect place to experience the beauty and culture of the Caribbean. Shop at duty-free stores for deals on jewelry, watches, and liquor, and grab lunch at local restaurants serving fresh seafood and West Indian cuisine before leaving.
Charlotte Amalie is vibrant and bursting with activity, which could ease your transition from the tranquil SVI paradise back to your busy everyday life. But probably not.
-by Carol Hansen
