Take an unforgettable trip through the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.
Sometimes you just have to get off the boat! My wife and I were in week three of our Bahamas cruise, and cabin fever was starting to kick in. After the obligatory runs for provisions and spares in Nassau, most of our time at anchor was either spent diving or lounging in the cockpit. On our trips to shore, we did not venture past the beach because most of the islands we encountered in the northern Exuma Cays were private.
All beaches in the Bahamas are public domain up to the high-water mark, which means you can walk on any island as long as you stay near the water, but being legal and being welcomed are not the same. Besides, guard dogs, which are deployed on some islands, neither understand nor care about the high-water line. Fortunately, we were entering the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park (ECLSP) which features walking trails that eliminate the worry of violating the privacy of a reclusive gazillionaire.
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A Walk in the Park
Our first walk in the park was Shroud Cay. There is a natural pool called the “Washing Machine,” which aptly describes the turbulent tidal eddies within. We had visited it in our tender and were so enthralled by the sweeping views of natural salt flats and intimate observations of turtles, fish, and baby sharks, that we wanted to explore the island by land.
We had no map, but a trail leading from the beach heading in the general direction of our objective seemed promising. The first few hundred yards of the trail led to a natural freshwater spring, but as we passed that point, the trail became increasingly overgrown and rocky.
Making our way in shorts and sandals through the bush led to stubbed toes and multiple scratches on our arms and legs. If we carried machetes or better still, a gas-powered bush hog, making our way through the thick brush might have been easier. Since we possessed neither, we retreated to the beach knowing we had tried our best.
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Our next stop was Hawksbill Cay, a gorgeous three-mile-long cay fringed with wide, sandy beaches. Our objective was the ruins of the Russell family estate, a Loyalist-period stone house not to be missed if we wanted a glimpse of how 18th-century settlers in the Bahamas lived.
After following several dead-end trails, we finally found a marked path. As we climbed, the trail became less distinct, steeper, and rockier. Eventually, we were scrambling across a weathered rock face which could easily have resulted in a cruise-ending fall. We almost turned around when the trail opened into a small clearing and the remnants of a stone foundation came into view. Mission accomplished, but we wanted more.
Next was Warderick Wells, the crown jewel of the ECLSP. With protecting moorings and a well-marked network of trails, the area was about to give our legs a workout. The trails at Warderick Wells do not disappoint. They are cleared of loose rock and brush. Hazards such as poisonwood are clearly identified because inadvertent touching will lead to rashes and blisters on exposed skin.
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Hiking to Boo Boo Hill, the highest point in Warderick Wells, requires some stamina and agility, but most healthy adults can make the ascent with a few breaks to catch your breath and to hydrate. The reward is a sweeping view of the famous Warderick Wells mooring field and nearby Emerald Rock, which makes you forget that you are out of breath and sweaty. We travel in boats, but a walk in the park is unforgettable.
Tips for a Successful Walk in the Park at the Exuma Cays
- Wear close-toed shoes with long pants. Sandals and shorts will lead to stubbed toes and scratches.
- Bring and use sunscreen. The Bahamian sun is intense, and those from northern climes are especially susceptible to sunburn.
- Carry plenty of water. There is little opportunity to refill a water bottle.
- Insect repellent is a good idea as biting insects are numerous in certain areas. A natural option is coconut oil which repels no-see-ums.
- Carry a handheld VHF to summon help if needed. Cell coverage is poor or non-existent.
- Don’t pick up rocks and shells for souvenirs as the ECLSP is a strict no-take zone for everything but selfies!
-by Addison Chan
