Off the
Beaten Path

Seeking the heart and soul
of Mexico’s Caribbean islands

My husband and I had heard about Mexico’s Caribbean coast for years, and from varied sources. Intrepid backpackers, longtime cruising sailors and an exuberant contingent of what Jimmy Buffet might recognize as 200-years-too-late pirates all waxed poetic about funky bars, fishing villages and dreamlike beaches.

Their stories, however, belonged to earlier decades. In recent years, the explosion of development in Cancun and along the Mayan Riviera created a different world, one known for all-inclusive vacations, gated expat communities and cruise ships. As we planned an exploration of Isla Mujeres and Isla Cozumel, islands that are part of the Yucatán Peninsula state of Quintana Roo, we wondered if it was still possible to experience authenticity and adventure there. ...

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