Windlass Workout

Keeping it maintained can make the difference

between a nice weekend and a pain in the back.

Nothing promotes a good night’s sleep at anchor like heavy ground tackle—except maybe the knowledge that there’s a functional anchor windlass at the ready to save your back by hauling it all onboard in the morning. Anchor windlasses perform reliably under the harshest conditions with little complaint, however even these silent deckhands require regular maintenance to ensure proper operation.

Anchor windlasses come in a variety of styles—vertical or horizontal (in reference to drum orientation), manual, electric, or hydraulic-powered. Each has its own set of pros and cons with regards to maintenance and upkeep. While almost bulletproof, the manual units require conscientious greasing and cleaning; hydraulic units can develop leaks, and electrical units have numerous components (batteries, switches, solenoids, etc.) that require due diligence because they are usually located in exposed, often wet locations.
While you should always follow the maintenance schedule provided by the manufacturer for your particular model, here are some good basic tips that can help extend the life of any windlass. Rinse the windlass thoroughly with fresh water after each outing to wash off salt, sand, and mud. Rinsing an all-chain rode before it enters the anchor locker is also a good idea, particularly if winch components are located in the locker and can be spattered with muck and debris.
Check the gearcase lube oil level weekly (most worm gear driven windlasses will have a sight glass for this). Milky oil indicates the presence of water (typically from a failed seal) and must be corrected immediately. Although most windlasses include this feature, it depends on the make and model.  Check yours and if it does have it, take advantage of it.
Check windlass mounting hardware regularly for looseness, movement, corrosion, and leaks.  Leaks are often caused by a broken bedding seal, typically the result of a windlass being overstressed.  Inspect all electrical connections monthly for problems such as corrosion or charring (as a result of arcing). Turn off all power, then dissemble and clean corroded connections with a wire brush and electrical cleaner (vinegar works well in a pinch).  Terminal and post connections should be clean and tight—coating them with di-electric grease and installing insulating rubber boots will protect against corrosion and accidental shorting. Hydraulic systems have an electrical component that is likely protected in the wheelhouse.
For units with the motor and gearbox located below decks, check the casing regularly for rust. Most are constructed of painted steel and will readily corrode in the damp environment of the anchor locker should the finish be damaged. Horizontal units are self-contained, so all of their operating hardware is above decks. That doesn’t mean you can ignore it. Address corrosion immediately (clean, prime, and paint) to prevent it from worsening.
Inspect foredeck foot switches for damage and proper operation. Ensure the hinged covers are in place (to prevent accidental operation) and that the covers themselves operate easily and have a good seal when closed. Check the rubber diaphragms for cracks, tears, or deterioration—spraying them regularly with a UV shield (such as 303 Aerospace Protectant) will noticeably extend their service life.