How we light our boats is changing, inside and outside, here’s a primer on how to change with the times.

With all due respect to Thomas Edison, the incandescent bulb may be a marvel of technology, but it’s not a particularly efficient one.  Luckily Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) have come of age and boaters looking to capitalize on their benefits have more choices than ever.  Let’s take a look at the advantages they offer over their incandescent predecessors and how they can help reduce your energy budget afloat.

How they work

Incandescent bulbs produce light by jamming large amounts of electrical current through a resistive tungsten filament, which gets so hot it begins to glow.  It works, but the problem is only five percent or so of the energy used is actually converted into light, with the remaining 95 percent being lost in the form of heat.
LEDs on the other hand, produce light as current moves from one type of semi-conductor crystal to another type of crystal within the LED.  Much of the energy used to light an LED is also lost as heat, but what makes them more efficient than incandescent bulbs is that they can produce the same amount of light with up to 90 percent lower amperage draw.  As the amount of power draw (and heat generated) is so much less than the finger-searing bulb mentioned above, an LED remains cool to the touch.
LEDs require a “driver” (essentially a self-contained power supply) that provides constant current-regulated power over the LED’s range of operating voltage (10VDC to 30VDC for example). The regulation provided by this driver not only provides a more consistent level of light output throughout the operating range, but (unlike incandescent bulbs) also allows the LED to be dimmed without changing the color of light produced (i.e., white becoming yellow).
Most LED units have the driver built in, however some models use an external driver to provide power to one or multiple LED arrays.  Systems with external drivers cost less to produce, but are in general are not as good as each LED having its own driver.  One major disadvantage is that if the external driver fails, all of the lights it powers will stop working.
With such great energy saving potential, it’s easy to see how replacing only a few incandescent bulbs can generate a noticeable reduction in power requirements.
Navigation lights (some of which draw up to 25 watts of power) certainly have potential in this regard, particularly while under sail or at anchor.  While LEDs and navigation lights seem like a perfect match, LED technology (which has been used commercially since the ’60s) has only recently been able to produce LEDs of sufficient color, intensity, and beam patterns suitable for use as navigation lights.

Replace or wait
LED replacements can be in the form of new fixtures or LED bulb replacements to retrofit your existing ones.  As with incandescent bulbs however, not all LED lights are created equal.  Before swapping out existing incandescent lights, make sure that the new LEDs are as bright as the factory installed originals.  This is especially crucial when replacing navigation lights–always ensure the ones you install have been tested to and comply with U.S. Coast Guard specifications. LED manufacturers, such as Dr. LED, (doctorled.com) provide a chart so that you can select replacement bulbs that will fit the size and brightness requirements exactly.
If swapping out the entire fixture, you should need nothing more than the basic tools—wire cutter/stripper, heat shrink butt connectors and crimper, screwdrivers, perhaps nut drivers or a socket set.  If you’re retrofitting a bulb to the existing fixture, no tools would likely be needed, although you may want to have a screwdriver handy to open the fixture up when swapping out the bulb.
For exact replacements, there’s no need to replace the fixture assuming it is working properly (clear lenses, good wiring, etc) unless you simply want new fixtures.  There will be no need to replace or upgrade the wiring when switching to LEDs as they draw a lot less current (assuming the existing wiring is in good condition).
If you wish to upgrade to something with increased brightness, you may have to replace the existing light fixture (depending on the LED’s physical size and mounting configuration) but in most cases I’d say even then that the wiring will likely still be of sufficient size, although it wouldn’t hurt to verify.
If cost is a consideration then retain your existing lighting. A quality LED can be pretty expensive relative to the old style. I just bought a new LED to replace the one in my anchor light (retaining the old fixture). West Marine’s price was $49.99 – the original bulb was probably less than $4.00. That can mount up if you swap out the entire boat’s lighting. Consider, though, that you’ll likely never have to replace one and won’t worry about draining your battery during nights at anchor.

Installing an inverter is easy.

It’s knowing which one to use that takes work.

While small boat owners may be accustomed to “roughing it” a bit more than those on larger craft, we’re always on the look-out for ways to make boating more like cruising and less like camping.  One example of this is installation of an AC power inverter, which allows you to bring some of the comforts of home onboard, such as a coffeemaker, blender or even a small microwave.  Let’s take a look at some of the do’s, don’ts, and other considerations of choosing and using an AC inverter.

Inverter101

In basic terms, an inverter converts your boat’s 12 or 24 volt DC battery power to 115V AC electricity. Unlike a generator (which actually generates AC), power output of an inverter depends on the output rating of the inverter and available battery capacity. If you’re looking for lots of continuous AC power a generator is your best bet, but for intermittent or small long-term AC power needs (brewing that pot of coffee or running a portable sander for example) an inverter is an attractive option.
The key to successful inverter nirvana is a reasonable expectation of just what your inverter can (and can’t) do. Being able to use a blender is probably a reasonable expectation, but don’t expect to power up your air conditioning unit with a 50 watt inverter and a group 24 starting battery.
Although limited by available battery capacity, inverters have advantages that even boats with generators can appreciate. They’re silent, virtually maintenance free and don’t produce exhaust fumes. Having an inverter installed in addition to a generator allows you to operate smaller AC powered items without the hassle of firing up the generator (or waking up the neighbors).

Portable or fixed mount?

Inverters are available in a wide range of sizes, from portable units (typically 300 watts or less) that plug into a cigarette lighter, to permanently mounted units wired directly to your vessel’s batteries for 2,000 or 3,000 watts.
Portable units are easy to use and work fine for powering smaller items (cell phones, laptops, tools, etc) but there can be issues with poor socket contact and smaller wiring, which limits their efficiency. Inverters greater than 400 watts are typically designed to be permanently mounted. Many of these also have built in battery chargers, allowing you to keep your batteries topped off when shore power is available.
Most inverters simply have an outlet in the case to plug in your appliance, however some of the more high-end units have built-in transfer switches, providing you the option to power remote AC outlets. Inverters designed to integrate into your existing AC system come with additional installation requirements, such as a visible means of determining that the inverter is online and a warning at the main AC panel stating that the system includes an inverter. AC from an inverter is just as dangerous as your household AC, so you’ll want to always disconnect it from the AC system prior to doing any work or maintenance.

Choosing an inverter

Inverters are rated in watts and selection is based on the maximum amount of AC power you’ll need at any given time. Most AC powered appliances and electronics list wattage requirements on their data tags – simply add up the watts for each appliance you need to operate at once.
For example, if you’re anchored out and plan on running a TV/DVD unit (200 watts) for movie night and a small microwave (800 watts) at the same time to pop the popcorn, you’ll need an inverter that delivers more than 1000 watts of continuous power.
Some appliances may also have a power surge requirement that has to be taken into consideration.  That TV/DVD may have a power requirement of 500 watts for a few seconds when turned on from a cold start – if so, you’ll have to use this in your calculation rather than the 200 watts needed during normal use.
Finally, you’ll also need sufficient battery capacity to power the inverter. A good rule of thumb is that battery capacity (amp-hours) should be equal to at least 20% of your inverter’s rating.  Building on our movie night example, you would need at least 200 amp-hours to power a 1000 watt inverter at full power for one hour (two hours at half power).

Inverter location

You’ll want to follow all instructions provided by the manufacturer, but in general permanently installed inverters should be located within 10 feet of your batteries (to avoid voltage drop or the need for oversized wires) and in an area that is cool, dry, well ventilated and away from the corrosive gasses that can be generated by batteries while charging. Unless labeled as being ignition protected, inverters must not be installed in a gasoline powered vessel’s engine compartment due to the risk of explosion. Even if ignition protected, many inverter manufacturer’s recommend against installation within engine compartments or spaces containing fuel, so read your instruction manual carefully before choosing a location.

Keep your trailer on a maintenance schedule

By Frank Lanier

Trailer maintenance isn’t a glamorous topic, but the thought of losing a tire while towing your pride and joy is enough to make any boat owner’s heart race. As the vessels they carry, trailers also need regular maintenance to ensure proper operation.

Trailer 101

Boat trailers are divided into two types—submersible (float on) and roll-off trailers, both of which can have single or multiple axles. Float-on trailers are designed to be submerged while loading and unloading your boat. They’re simple to use and provide good support for the hull, however they also require more maintenance.

This winch assembly needs to be taken apart, cleaned, treated for rust and lubricated. The handle is too far gone and should be replaced before it breaks.

In addition to the routine checks you should do before each tow, also regularly give your trailer a more in-depth inspection. Year-round boat operators should inspect their rigs at least twice a year.

Frame and axle care

Trailers are either aluminum or steel and will have either a painted or galvanized finish. Painted steel trailers are fine for freshwater use, but a galvanized or aluminum trailer is the way to go for saltwater.
With steel trailers, watch for signs of rust on the frame and address any corroded areas found immediately. Light areas of rust should be sanded and recoated, however, heavily rusted structural components should be evaluated by a professional. Inspect the frame regularly for damage such as cracked welds, bent or twisted members, and missing hardware.
Corrosion is your trailer’s constant foe. Hose it down with freshwater after every use, being sure to flush the insides of the chassis and cross members by spraying into the drain holes.
Spray all non-stainless steel or non-galvanized parts liberally with a rust inhibitor.  Corrosion inside the axle tube, resulting from trapped water can lead to catastrophic axle failure.  Verify that the axle is completely sealed or, if not, that it drains properly after each use.
Check the tightness of all nuts and bolts for your trailer’s hardware, structural components, leaf springs, etc., in preparation for long road trips.

Hubs and bearings

Care for your trailer’s hubs and bearings, especially those that are regularly submerged. All hubs should be disassembled and thoroughly inspected at least annually for corrosion and damage, after which they should be cleaned and repacked with a quality marine grease. Replacing the grease seals each time the hub is pulled is cheap insurance.
Protect your bearings by installing bearing protectors. They’re all designed to do the same thing—keep the bearings lubricated, while protecting them from foreign matter intrusion.

Tires

Most tire failures can be traced to neglect. Tire tread should be inspected regularly, but many times sidewall failure will occur before treads wear to the replacement point. This isn’t surprising, considering the ratio of actual road time verses driveway time for most trailers.  Inspect tires prior to each trip for cracks, signs of rot and correct pressure. Check lug nuts for tightness. The sun and ground will eventually rot your tires if they sit long enough. For trailers that will remain idle for an extended time, consider removing the tires. When replacing, use tires designed for boat trailers—they typically have thicker sidewalls.

Brakes

Trailer brakes will be either hydraulic surge brakes (no corrosion-prone wiring) or electrically activated brakes, both of which can use disc or drums. Drum brakes are typically found on trailers used for smaller, lighter boats, while disc brakes are best for larger boat trailers. Corrosion is the primary concern for all brake types.  When inspecting surge brakes, check wheel cylinders, brake lines, and the master cylinder for corrosion and fluid leaks. Change your brake fluid annually, check the fluid level before each trip, and regularly inspect it for rust, sediment or water contamination.

Lights and wiring

The common problems you’ll experience with trailer lights will be corrosion related. Even though most are designed to have sealed connections and lenses, water seems to inevitably find its way inside.
Pre-departure lighting checks should include verification that all running, signal, and brake lights are operating properly. Wiring should be multi-strand, marine grade copper wire and all runs should be secured every 18” to prevent chafe. Don’t overlook rollers and pads and the trailer winch. Worn or broken roller and pads should be replaced immediately, to eliminate launch and loading problems and prevent hull damage.
Regularly check the winch strap or cable for kinks or fraying and replace immediately if damaged. Check the winch itself for loose mounting hardware and loose or worn gears and internal components.
Finally, remember that the winch is designed to assist in loading and unloading your boat only, not to hold it on the trailer.  Always make sure you have a means to secure your boat in place once loaded.

This new SmartPlug

is just that

A recent Boat U.S. marine insurance report stated 11 percent of their fire related claims originated within the vessel’s AC power system, with the majority of these occurring at the boat’s shore power inlet. To address this and other shortcomings of the standard twist-type AC shore power plug and inlet, SmartPlug Systems, LLC has developed a new shore power delivery system that may set a new industry standard.

Rear view of the disassembled plug showing the unique internal cord strain relief clamp.

Barring failure of some owner-installed MacGyverism, overheating due to loose or corroded connections is the primary cause of shore power component failure. Corrosion in the standard twist-type connection typically occurs due to moisture entry at the plug/inlet connection, while arcing (which in turn leads to pitting, scorching and heat build-up) can be attributed in part to the shape and small contact area of the connector pins.
Another factor is the movement associated with a loose plug connection, a problem that can be exacerbated by tripping or stepping on the cord or vessel movement while at the dock.
SmartPlug engineers have devised a four-stage approach to defend against overheating. A new sleeve design and plug-to-receptacle locking system ensures the body of the plug (rather than the pins) bears the weight or tension of the cord, reducing movement and a tendency to work free.  To reduce arcing and corrosion, pin contact area is increased by more than 20 times and protected by three weatherproof seals.
Finally (and perhaps best of all) the inlet contains a built in thermal overload that automatically cuts power if the connector reaches 200˚F and restores it when the temperature drops to 120˚F, a feature that I find is worth the price.
The company’s 30-amp inlet and connector retrofit kit sells for $225.00, fairly reasonable when considering the features provided by the SmartPlug. A 50-amp inlet and connector, as well as cordsets, are in development for summer 2010 release.

Installation

To install the new plug, simply cut off the existing cord plug and wire the new SmartPlug as per the provided directions, or hire a certified marine electrician. The direction sheet for both plug and inlet are simple and contain photos (the company’s website also has handy installation videos). You’ll need a wire stripper or wire-stripping pliers and a Phillips-head screwdriver. Disconnect power at both ends before beginning and make sure your internal connecting wire is in good condition–a bright copper color.
The plug is fitted with color-coded terminals. Insert the matching wire until its insulation butts up against the plastic of the connector.
The SmartPlug inlet is designed to fit the same opening and screw hole footprint as the existing twist lock inlet on your boat with little or no modification required. I had to do some minor trim work and re-drill two screw holes, but this was likely due to the make and age (1970s-vintage Taiwanese sailboat) of the inlet. Make sure you use the rear mounting gasket and seal the screw holes with caulk.

Pros, cons, and observations

The SmartPlug is a well-built unit. All external metals are marine-grade 316 stainless steel, the electrical pins are nickel-plated brass, and the plastics are constructed of UV and heat resistant Valox 553U resins.
The straight pin design of the SmartPlug eliminates fumbling about in he dark to get the plug in. Push the plug (which only goes in one way) straight in until the side levers ‘click’ and then snap the locking cap down to lock it in place. The plug also incorporates a very clever internal cord strain relief clamp.
As to the cons associated with the SmartPlug system, even with one installed on your vessel, a twist-type plug (or adaptor) will be required to connect to shore power when cruising. Although this isn’t a clean break from the twist-type connections, it does provide the benefits of the new system at the vessel end. If you own the dock, a 30-amp dockside outlet can retrofit your existing pedestal.
From a design standpoint, the only issue I really have is that the length of the plug body coupled with the placement of the release tabs doesn’t provide the best grip while un-plugging–your hand tends to slide down to the cable when pulling.
I thought that including a power indicating LED would be a neat feature. Mentioning this to the manufacturer’s rep at the Miami boat show, he indicated it was in the works.
The SmartPlug is a well-designed unit that offers a number of improvements over the twist-type AC plug, however attempting to replace a system so firmly entrenched is a daunting task. In my opinion, the additional safety features and increased weatherproofing alone provide incentive enough to upgrade.

The most important alarm on

your boat may be a CO detector

Choosing and installing a

carbon monoxide detector

While shouts of “Fire!” “Man overboard!” and “We’re out of ice!” are all cries of alarm boat enthusiasts dread to hear, there’s one alarm many won’t hear that could wind up costing them their lives—the wail of a carbon monoxide detector. Too often this isn’t because the danger doesn’t exist, but rather because there’s no detector installed to begin with. Many of the stories in the news concerning boats and carbon monoxide end badly, but it doesn’t have to be that way. Let’s take a look at how to protect yourself and everyone else onboard by installing a carbon monoxide detector.

Know thy enemy–what is carbon

monoxide and why can it be deadly?

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a potentially lethal gas produced when burning any carbon-based fuel such as gasoline, diesel, propane, or wood. The most common source of carbon monoxide is exhaust from gasoline or diesel engines, however any open flame device—cooking ranges, heaters, or grills—can be guilty of producing deadly amounts of CO.
Carbon monoxide mixes easily with air, meaning it readily travels throughout a boat’s interior spaces. It is easily absorbed into the bloodstream, where it displaces oxygen in the body and can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning.
Exposure to even small amounts can be lethal, as the effects of CO are cumulative and can build up gradually in a person’s bloodstream for hours or even days before reaching critical levels.  How quickly this occurs is dependent on the concentration of CO being inhaled (measured in parts per million) and the duration of exposure. Common signs of CO poisoning include headaches, dizziness, weakness, drowsiness, and nausea–symptoms that can all too easily be attributed to sea sickness, alcohol consumption or too much sun exposure.

CO detectors

Since carbon monoxide (unlike the smoke generated by a fire) is colorless, tasteless and odorless, the only reliable way to guard against it is with the installation of a CO detector.  The American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) has called for the installation of CO detectors on all boats with enclosed accommodation areas and a gasoline generator or inboard gasoline propulsion engine since 1998.
ABYC exempts diesel engines from this requirement and while it’s true they produce less CO than gasoline engines, my personal recommendation is that detectors be installed aboard all vessels with sleeping accommodations. CO can easily be generated by other sources onboard or even introduced from nearby boats via the ventilation system, which is especially true of boats running air conditioning.

Choosing a CO detector

There are a few things you should know before heading out to purchase a CO detector. The first impulse for many boaters is to buy a home-type CO detector, but they typically don’t meet the construction requirements for marine grade units (such as Underwriters Laboratories standard 1524) and are not recommended.
Marine CO detectors can be either battery powered (the 9-volt type) or hardwired. The obvious benefit of battery-powered units is that they can be installed anywhere without the need for wiring, however this lack of an external power supply can also be a disadvantage from a reliability standpoint.  Self-test the unit weekly and replace the batteries regularly as per the manufacturer.
Hardwired marine units are powered by the vessel’s 12- or 24-volt DC power system.  Those designed for residential or commercial installations utilize 120VAC, which may not always be available while cruising. Power for wired CO detectors must be provided via an appropriate fuse or circuit breaker, keeping in mind that they should also be wired to remain energized at all times.  In other words, they should be fed from the “hot” side of the battery switch to prevent them from being accidentally shut-off.
Wired units can also offer more advanced features, such as automatic generator shutdown in the event CO is detected.  Visit the MariTech Industries (maritechsafety.com/cops/asp) and fireboy-Xintex (fireboy-xintex.com/co-detectors.html) Web sites for additional information.
CO detectors gained a bad reputation in the past for generating numerous false alarms. Modern units use “time-weighted averaging” to determine the amount of CO present over a period of a few minutes rather than at one point in time, greatly reducing the number of false alarms.

Location, location, location

ABYC does not state specifically where a CO detector should be located on your vessel, however it does provide some general guidelines. First of all, they must be located to monitor the atmosphere in the main cabin and each sleeping area. Enclosed helms (flying bridges for example) or any other place people tend to congregate are good candidates for detectors as well, which depending on your boat’s configuration, may require the installation of multiple units, or sensors if part of a system.
Choose a location that both protects the detector from rain, spray, sunlight, etc., and avoids what ABYC calls “dilution of sampled air” which could occur near hatches, ports or forced ventilation openings. Locations containing “dead air” spaces should be avoided as well. Unlike LPG or gasoline vapors, which are heavier than air, CO has roughly the same weight as oxygen, meaning detector placement is not limited to high or low areas of the cabin. As such, choose a location that is roughly eye level, to easily monitor detector meters or warning lights.
Finally, CO detectors have a limited lifespan. Detectors or system sensors will typically need to be replaced every five years, however this varies between units and can be as soon as one year from date of purchase. Check with the manufacturer and verify the recommended replacement intervals prior to purchase and installation.

Care and feeding of the dripless shaft seal

Advocates of dripless shaft seals are quick to point out their benefits over conventional stuffing boxes (no leaks, no flax to replace, no shaft scoring) but the zinger is always the same – “they’re maintenance free!”  While it’s true dripless shaft seals such as PYI’s popular Packless Sealing System (PSS for short) require less care than a traditional packing gland, nothing on a boat is truly maintenance free.
There are two primary types of dripless shaft seals–lip seals and face seals. Lip seal units employ a synthetic rubber sleeve encased in a metal housing. Face seal units like the PSS form a mechanical seal and work on the principal that when two highly polished surfaces are properly mated, water can’t pass between them, even when one is spinning and the other is stationary. Let me tell you about maintaining and troubleshooting the system with which I’m most familiar.

Maintenance

As with any rubber hose below the waterline, it must be inspected regularly for signs of cracks, wear, aging, or chemical deterioration. PYI recommends inspecting twice annually and replacing every six years regardless of condition, at which time they also recommend the O-rings and set screws in the stainless steel rotor be replaced as well.

Troubleshooting

In a nut shell, your PSS seal should never leak at rest and while underway should never make noises or generate more than a fine spray or mist.  Let’s explore the various problem scenarios you could experience and how to correct them.

Scenario 1: Your boat is docked and the engine is not running, however you notice water leaking from the shaft seal. The first step is to thoroughly inspect the seal to determine where the leak originates. If leaks are sighted where the bellows attaches to the shaft log or carbon graphite flange, check the hose clamps. If leaking around the nylon hose barb, check that the hose clamps and barb itself are snug and properly tightened.
The most common cause of minor leaking is the presence of foreign material between the stainless steel rotor and carbon flange—even a single grain of sand or blade of grass can break the seal. To clean the mating surfaces of the rotor and flange without disassembly, simply compress the bellows while forcing them apart, allowing the incoming water to flush-out the debris. You can also wipe both mating surfaces with a clean cloth while flushing—just be quick about it as water will be gushing into the boat while the bellows is relaxed.

Scenario 2: After you cleaned and flushed the two surfaces, water is still leaking between the rotor and graphite flange.  Loosen the rotor and recompress the bellows as per installation instructions. While adjusting the bellows, remember that the numbers given in the compression chart are average figures. You may need to add an additional 1/4-inch of compression to attain a proper seal. Installation of a collar zinc inboard of the rotor provides an additional layer of insurance to keep the rotor in place, particularly if excessive vibration is a concern.

Scenario 3: While cruising, you notice a fine black mist emanating from the shaft seal.  Sweat starts beading on your forehead, but you remember the break-in period mentioned in the installation instructions. The carbon flange is polishing the stainless steel rotor, a process that generates a fine mist often accompanied by black dust. This is normal and should stop after the first hour or so of operation. If it continues past the break-in period you’ll want to determine why.
One possibility is incorrect bellows tension. Another possibility is the presence of foreign material on the seal faces. In this case you can polish the seal using a folded piece of 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. You can do this while in the water by compressing the bellows slightly, placing the sandpaper between the faces and making 8 to 10 sweeps around the seal.

Scenario 4: The seal is drip-free at the dock, but sprays water while underway.  As with the previous scenario, it’s most likely contamination of the seal faces—this time with oil or grease. While reading the PSS instructions, you’ll notice cautions against using silicone or petroleum-based products during installation. A single drop of oil or grease on the mating surfaces can result in water spraying from the seal while underway. Clean as described in scenario three.

Scenario 5: While cruising, you suddenly hear a high-pitched squeal coming from the bilge.  Immediately reduce speed and if possible come to a complete stop and shut the engine down. Sudden squealing generally occurs in powerboat installations due to overheating caused by lack of cooling water. A dry seal can get extremely hot, so avoid touching it.
If this is a new installation and your vessel is faster than 12 knots while underway, make sure cooling water was plumbed to the seal via the nylon hose barb fitting.
If overheating occurs, always check the seal thoroughly and replace any damaged components prior to placing the vessel back in service.

Hatch replacement

or rebedding made easy

With the possible exception of Karaoke night at your marina’s Tiki Bar, nothing can ruin a good night’s sleep quicker than hitting the V-berth after a day of boating only to find soggy bedding due to a leaky deck hatch. Hatch leaks can also cause major structural damage over time if left unchecked. Maybe the hatch simply needs to be pulled and re-bedded (caulked) or perhaps it’s damaged and you want to upgrade to a more robust unit, one with a more modern look to it. Even if your existing hatch is serviceable, parts for older, discontinued hatches are often hard to come by should the need for repairs arise.
Regardless of the reason, with a little planning and preparation, pulling a hatch for repair or replacement is a project well within the ability of most any boat owner. Here are some tips on how to do it right.

Why hatches leak
Although hatch leaks can be caused by damage or component failure (cracked lens, worn or inoperative dogs, missing gaskets, etc.) one common cause is failure of the sealant between the frame and deck.  Boats are not totally ridged structures and even well constructed ones twist and flex, working and eventually breaking the caulking seal. Although larger breaks mean more leaking, even minute failure points in the caulking can pull in water due to the capillary effect.
As a marine surveyor I often see caulking gobbed around the outside edge of a leaky hatch in a futile attempt to stem the flow of water, an approach that’s slightly less effective than throwing sawdust against a waterfall (and lot messier looking). Once seal failure occurs, the only real option is to pull and re-bed the hatch.

Hatch pulling basics
While hatches may differ in size and style, the basic steps for removal and reinstallation are pretty much the same for all.
A good quality hatch installation will be secured with nuts and bolts, typically in an arrangement that sandwiches the deck between the flange of the hatch frame and an interior trim ring.  Screws are also commonly used by builders to mount hatches—not because they’re better— but cheaper and quicker to install.
Although dealing with screw mounted hatches is a fact of life for many boat owners, screws are a horrible way to fasten anything to fiberglass, a brittle material that doesn’t provide good holding. This is particularly true if the fastener itself will be under a load or flexing.

Pull the old hatch
This can be a relatively simple affair or a battle of epic proportions, depending on the condition and type of sealant used to bed the hatch. If the caulking is in poor condition, the hatch may pull out fairly easily, however the more likely scenario will involve a bit of persuasion using a flexible putty knife to help cut the caulking. If the hatch was installed using polyurethane adhesive, one of the spray on de-bonding agents such as Anti-Bond 2015 may help.

Clean and inspect
Once the hatch is pulled, the next step is to remove the old caulking and clean all mating surfaces of the hatch and fiberglass deck thoroughly with a suitable solvent (acetone works well, assuming you have a metal hatch).  This step can’t be stressed enough – failure to remove ALL of the old caulking will guarantee the new installation will leak.  If there’s oxidation or corrosion on the hatch flange, you’ll need to remove that as well.

Dry fitting the hatch
Once the hatch and deck are cleaned, dry-fit the hatch to make sure everything fits properly.  Five minutes here can save you five hours labor later on.
Rules for successful bedding
• Apply plenty of sealant. When tightened, caulking should squeeze out all around the hatch frame flange. If it doesn’t, you’ll likely have to do it over to ensure a watertight fit. Excess silicone can be trimmed away with a razor blade once cured. For polysulfide and polyurethane caulks, apply masking tape around the outside of the flange prior to bedding, then smooth out the caulking with a moistened finger and peel the tape promptly, leaving a clean edge.
•  Tighten the mounting hardware until the caulking begins to ooze out around the flange, but not enough to squeeze out all of the caulking. The objective is to snug the hatch down enough to bed it while leaving enough caulking to form a gasket once cured. If done properly, you will still have the option to tighten it down a bit more in future.
•  Snug-up the hardware after the caulking has completely cured (typically a couple of days) to place the seal under compression.

Tune in next month, when we discuss that using that Aqua-sling you got for Christmas to lob a couple of jumbo water balloons into the Tiki Bar next Karaoke night can actually help cure insomnia…

Clean Up and Cool Off

Installing a transom shower can make
your cruising more comfortable

Despite that old saying about getting there being half the fun, when it comes to boating, everyone knows the fun really begins after arriving at your favorite anchorage. The kids want to go paddling, the dog wants to swim and hairy Uncle Joe from Jersey wants to go snorkeling, (hopefully avoiding a repeat of last year’s “Ooops! Got my thong on backwards!” fiasco). The downside to all this fun however, can be the salt, sand and muck tracked onboard at the end of the day—unless you have a transom-mounted shower to rinse away the grime.
Installing a transom shower is not only practical from a comfort standpoint; it’s also better for maintenance. Walking about the deck with sand or grit underfoot is murder on gelcoat and painted finishes. It’s also an upgrade that’s easily within the ability of the average owner. Here’s a look at what’s involved and the various options available.
Transom showers are typically plumbed directly into your existing freshwater system and can provide either hot or cold water. Boats without a water heater can install an engine heat exchanger allowing them the option of providing a hot shower as well.
Although you can certainly piece a system together, the simplest way to install a transom shower is by purchasing a kit, which will be the focus of this article. The parts provided in these may vary slightly, but most, at a minimum, will contain a recessed enclosure, a showerhead or nozzle, a length of retractable hose, and dual valves for hot and cold water control.

Whale Water Systems’ Swim

‘N’Rinse shower unit plumbs to

both hot and cold water sources.

The installation itself is pretty straightforward, however, as with any project, you’ll want to thoroughly plan and visualize it prior to beginning. As for parts, you’ll need two barbed hose “T” fittings and appropriate lengths of water hose.
The first decision will be choosing the best place to locate the shower. Look for a flat surface near the swim platform, transom or cockpit. Be sure there’s enough room behind it to accept the shower enclosure and enough room in front to allow the shower enclosure’s lid to swing open.
Once you’ve found that perfect spot, mount the enclosure. Place the template where you want to mount the enclosure, tape it in place, and then trace and cut the hole. When cutting and mounting in solid fiberglass, you’ll simply be applying a bead of sealant around the inside flange of the enclosure to seal it to the bulkhead. If the area is made of cored construction such as balsa or plywood, you’ll also have to seal the edges of the hole to prevent water intrusion into the coring. After the hole is cut, dry-fit the enclosure.
Let’s assume you have plenty of access and want to mount the enclosure before plumbing. Start by applying a liberal bead of caulk along the mounting flange. Carefully install the enclosure and tighten the mounting hardware until caulking begins to ooze out, and then stop and let the caulking cure. This allows the caulk to form a gasket, providing a better seal. As a final touch, remove the mounting bolts or screws one at a time and coat the threads liberally with sealant prior to final tightening.
Next up is plumbing the system. Start by locating the nearest access to the vessel’s hot and cold water system and planning the shortest, straightest run possible to the new shower.
Once you’ve located a promising spot, turn off and secure power to the water pressure pump. Next cut the hoses and install the “T” fittings securing each with stainless steel clamps, then run the respective hoses back to the shower, supporting each with wire ties and mounts or cushioned stainless steel clamps every 12 to 16 inches.
Once everything is connected, power up the water pressure pump and inspect the system for leaks. Now you’re ready to hose down the kids, the dog and Uncle Joe.

Going with the Flow

Installing a fuel flow meter is a giant leap toward efficient cruising

Given current economic conditions, the desire of today’s boater to wring as many nautical miles as possible from every gallon of fuel is ever present. In addition to the more commonly known efforts to achieve this goal—maintaining a clean hull and running gear, staying on top of routine engine maintenance and transferring excess weight ashore—one option that continues to gain in popularity is installation of a fuel flow meter.
Let’s take a look at what they are and how to install one.

How They Work

Fuel flow meters allow you to accurately monitor engine performance by monitoring fuel consumption. Utilizing fuel line sensors, flow meters measure fuel flow and calculate the amount of fuel consumed by your engine, providing you the information in gallons per hour, total gallons consumed, or if interfaced with a GPS unit, even nautical miles per gallon.  Meters range from relatively simple analog units to complex, digital displays that can combine flow meter functions with engine hours, tachometer, and show remaining fuel and estimated range.
Once a baseline of fuel consumption is established for your vessel under normal operation, conditions that can decrease fuel efficiency such as a bent prop, fouled bottom or clogged fuel injector, become more noticeable; allowing you to correct the problem sooner, while saving the fuel that would otherwise have been wasted. Early detection is key here, particularly as many of the problems that rob your engine of fuel efficiency are not readily apparent. Something as seemingly innocuous as a failed spark plug can increase fuel consumption in gasoline engines by over 20 percent with no perceptible change in engine performance.

In addition to alerting boaters to potential engine problems before they turn critical, the fuel usage data provided by a flow meter can help you find your boat’s operational “sweet spot” by determining the most efficient trim, running speed and weight distribution.  Many owners will find that simply increasing or decreasing their running speed a few hundred RPMs can increase their range by as much as 20 percent.

Flow meters can also serve to improve safety. Flow meter readings can quickly alert you to potentially dangerous fuel leaks, while also telling you just how much further you can safely travel, reducing the risk of running out of fuel. On the flip side, they allow you to safely judge whether you have enough fuel remaining to pass-up higher priced fuel docks or those with questionable fuel.

Installation

Installation of a fuel flow meter is fairly straightforward, however it does require basic mechanical skills and the ability to follow detailed installation instructions. If this describes you, then go for it. If not, hire a competent marine mechanic to do the job. Regardless, having one review the installation, especially any electrical work, is always a good idea.

If you decide to do the installation yourself, depending on the unit flow meter you purchase, be prepared to cut and splice fuel lines, drill mounting holes for gauges and run wires. Flow meters have typically utilized mechanical measurement tools such as turbine or positive displacement units in the past to monitor fuel flow, but many newer units use ultrasonic sensors to transmit flow rate data, which will simplify installation. Even so, flow meter installation can still be daunting, particularly on diesel engines, where it can take even a skilled technician hours to complete.  Shade-tree mechanics can take heart, however, as many manufacturers have heard their cries and worked to simplify installation. Floscan designed its Series K Diesel Fuel Flow Monitoring System to address the complexity of flow meter installations and reduce the job to one the average do-it-yourself boater can accomplish in about a day.

Flow meters are rated for different size engines, so as part of the purchase process you’ll have to check the correct flow meter for your particular engine set-up. Most flow meter manufacturers provide engine model selection guides on their Web sites. It’s a good opportunity to check the status of your fuel lines and fill connectors. Make sure the hose you buy is NMMA and USCG approved. ABYC has published standards. Gasoline-powered boat owners should check July’s Engine Room article for EPA regulations.

Is it worth it?

Of course prices will vary based on the installation, type of unit desired, number of engines to be monitored, and whether you have the option of using a dual scan unit. However, a typical installation for a trawler powered by twin diesels will cost roughly $1,200 plus labor, once you factor in the flow meter(s), sensors and miscellaneous wiring and connectors.

While that might seem like an expensive proposition at first glance, the savings will start to add up quickly—more so if it allows you to avoid even one “out of fuel” experience and the associated cost of a tow. You may not recoup the initial cost of investment over the first year, but you’ll definitely start reaping the benefits of the installation the first time you leave the dock in terms of fuel savings and reduced engine maintenance, not to mention the peace of mind and safety such instruments will provide for years to come.

It’s in the “Bag”

Put together an overboard

bag for peace of mind

I still remember the look on my friend Robert’s face as he told me the story. It was one of shock, disbelief, horror, happiness, and confusion and many blank spots. He and a friend had been fishing in the Bahamas on a 32-foot center console and started back to South Florida in the afternoon when they noticed the wind whipping up over the Gulf Stream.
“We just thought we’d better get going,” says Robert. “We had no idea what we were in for.” That’s such a common storyline when people on boats end up being people in the water. “We were running along in sloppy conditions, two-to-fours, shouting to each other over the roar of the engines and the wind that ‘things could be worse.’ The next instant, my head was underwater, I got a great big gulp of seawater, the boat was on top of me,” said Robert. “I had my lifejacket on, and realized that I had to dive down under the gunwale of the capsized boat and find my friend.”
Once out from under the boat he realized his friend was right there, also in his lifejacket, which they’d put on before crossing the Gulf Stream. “We both dove back under the boat and grabbed everything that floated, but mainly we were after the EPIRB. He grabbed it and we surfaced at the back of the boat, hanging on to the pitching engines as we activated it.”
This story has a happy ending. After all, they’d done almost everything right. They were monitoring the weather, had the VHF on channel 16, were wearing their life jackets, even had an EPIRB on board, which was now sending a distriess signal to rescuers (this was years ago and it was a non-GPS 121.5 MHz unit). What they didn’t have was a signaling device.
Now may be a good time to make a weekend project out of assembling an overboard, or “ditch” bag, because if Robert and his friend had had some type of signaling device, such as flares, glow sticks or even a mirror in the case of daylight rescue, their time floating in the water could have been shortened drastically.
“We just kept saying to ourselves that ‘they’d be here to get us soon.’” Exposure, hunger and most importantly, thirst were starting to wear at them. All night, rescue planes searched a grid not far from them, beacons flashing, flying in patterns—but never close enough to see the 32-foot partially sunken hull bobbing in four-foot waves. “It was so frustrating that we had nothing to signal them with,” says Robert.
The next day, a rescue plane passed directly overhead and dropped a flare. Soon after, a big orange and white U.S.C.G. helicopter appeared and their ordeal was over. “Those guys are heroes, and I’ll always be greatful for the Coast Guard,” says Robert.
So what could they have done to help their situation? Put together and stowed a ditch bag aboard. With that, rescue may have taken only a matter of an hour or so.
Customize Your Ditch Bag(s)
“Very few of us seriously consider that we might have to abandon the comforts of the primary vessel,” says Captain Tom Cartier of the Maritime Professional Training School in Fort Lauderdale, Florida. “Work out some possible scenarios in advance,” he says. “Consider what it would take to survive if suddenly thrust into harm’s way.” Now is a good time to make your own ditch kit tailored to your needs.
For example, if you’ve never fished a day in your life, having a spool of line and a hook may not be useful, unless you teach yourself how to tie a knot, plan to have gloves to pull the line, a lure and filet knife. Take gear you know you can use and the gear you know you will need based on your cruising style.
“Sometimes, it’s the little things that count, says Tom. “A little container of Joy liquid soap is worth its weight in gold, should you get covered in fuel and oil. Many mariners have begun wearing a belt pouch with a small flashlight and a stainless all-in-one tool. That way, it’s always with you.”

Practice, Practice, Practice
“Practice drills should be held for all crew members to activate the EPIRB, DSC alert, and use the VHF and other communications gear you might have on board. Another point Tom makes: “Can most crew members determine the vessel’s position and use it in a MAYDAY? Do you post position information near the radio and update it? Releasing the life raft and gathering emergency supplies should be common knowledge as well.”

Pack Carefully, and Thoughtfully
Having a small, portable GPS/VHF unit in the bag is a great idea and highly recommended. But if you forget your reading glasses, tiny screen instructions won’t do you much good. Thinking one or two steps ahead will make your ditch kit a real lifesaver when, and if, the time comes. How you package your ditch kit items is critical. Consider some brightly colored plastic boxes with waterproof seal-type lids. You could have one for flares, one for medical and first aid, and one for emergency items. Once filled, float test them and store them near the helm for easy access.
“It is a proven fact that ‘Chance Favors the Prepared Mind,’ says Tom. “It is the resultant high level of confidence that ensures a successful outcome.”