Regular oil changes are arguably the single most important thing a boat owner can do to increase an engine’s service life. As with most preventative maintenance however, the easier the process, the more likely it is to be done. Here’s a look at how to make your oil-changing routine as painless as possible.

How often is regular?

Most engine manufacturers recommend oil changes be completed every 100 hours, or annually at a minimum. Some engine manuals may allow longer intervals, however more frequent oil changes are a better strategy to extend the life of the engine than stretching out the period between them. This is particularly true for diesel engines which tend to be harder on oil lubrication properties than gasoline engines—one reason many experts recommend diesel oil be changed every 50 hours of use rather than the 100 hours commonly quoted. Another recommendation is to change the oil before a long layup period, not afterwards. You want clean oil in the crankcase during storage, rather than dirty oil laden with grime and potentially corrosive combustion byproducts.

Prepping for success

In addition to your normal oil changing preparations (purchasing the correct type and amount of oil, gathering the necessary tools, etc.) it’s always a good idea to place catch pans and oil-absorbent pads beneath the engine and oil filter. This adds an extra layer of prevention against accidental leaks, dropped filters and the like from reaching the bilge.

It’s also important to bring engines up to operating temperatures prior to an oil change. Warm oil not only flows easier (which assists in removal), but also holds more contaminates in suspension, meaning more abrasive gunk and chemical impurities will be removed from the engine when the oil is changed.

Out with the old

Unlike changing the oil in your car, many marine engine installations provide little or no access to the oil pan drain plug or space below the engine to place an open container to drain into. Engine installations that lack drain plug access must use some form of oil evacuation system, i.e., one that uses a manual or electric pump to transfer oil from the engine into an open or (better yet) closed container.

Closed oil changing systems range from portable vacuum pumps designed to remove oil via the dipstick tube, to permanently mounted pumps plumbed directly to the oil pan drain.

Oil filters

All regularly-scheduled oil changes should include replacement of the oil filter. Some people advocate replacing the filter every other oil change (presumably to save a few bucks), but this is false economy over the long-term and is not in the best interest of your engine.

Spill-free oil filter replacements can be a challenge, depending on the filter’s orientation. Vertically-mounted filters can usually be removed with minimal mess by keeping the filter level during removal, but horizontally-mounted filters (or worse still, those mounted upside down) require additional precautions to minimize oil spills during replacement. These include positioning oil pads or a catch pan beneath the filter, as well as placing a large Ziploc®-style freezer bag around the filter prior to removal. Once the filter is removed, the bag can be sealed and used to transport the filter without fear of leaking oil.
Eight Tips For
Oil-Changing Nirvana

1. Always warm the engine prior to
2. changing the oil.
3.  Use a closed oil-changing system whenever possible. They’re easier to use, reduce the chance of spills and make it easier to transport used oil to a recycling facility.
4.  Use oil absorbent pads and containers to prevent and contain accidental spills.
5.  Temporarily disable automatic bilge pumps to prevent oil from accidentally being pumped overboard in the event of a spill.
6.  Wrap the oil filter with a thick cloth during removal to avoid burning your hands.
7. Write the date and engine hours on the new filter to serve as a visual reminder of when the next oil change is due.
8.  Recycle oil and filters.
9.  Dispose of used absorbent pads and rags properly.

In with the new

Once the old oil is removed and the filter replaced, the next step is adding new oil. The design of modern screw-top containers simplifies pouring oil into the filler at the top of the engine (provided you have the space to invert the container), but using a funnel will make adding oil easier in most cases. You can even add a short length of hose to the funnel to assist with those hard to reach oil fills.

Once the oil is added, start the engine and look for leaks, particularly around the oil pan and filter. Keeping a fresh oil absorbent pad beneath the engine will aid in spotting leaks both between and after oil changes.

Emergency bilge pump options, installation and maintenance.

Preventing and detecting onboard gas leaks is very serious and necessary business. Take the time to do it correctly.

There are a number of reasons why liquefied petroleum gas (aka LP or LPG) is such a popular choice for onboard cooking fuels: it’s efficient, relatively cheap, and widely available. Unfortunately, it’s also the most dangerous, particularly in regards to boat installations. One recommendation for all boats that utilize LPG is installation of a gas detector or “sniffer.” Let’s take a look at LPG sniffers—what they are, how they work, and some basic installation tips.

Sniffer 101

An LPG detector is simply an electronic unit designed to detect gas leaks and then alert those onboard. Some sniffers consist of a single unit containing the sensor and alarm circuitry, however, most are sold as a “control package” which includes a monitor/control panel, remote sensor (one or more, depending on the unit) and a remote controlled solenoid on/off valve to be installed at the tank. If gas is detected at 10 percent or more of the lower explosion limit (LEL), it automatically shuts off the solenoid and sounds a visual and audible alarm.

Sniffers are designed to constantly monitor the air for LP gas and should be configured to do so, even with no one onboard. This ensures that those returning to their boat are alerted of a leak prior to boarding (and turning on a potential sparkinducing piece of equipment). Boat owners who leave their vessel unattended for long periods of time should look for sniffer units that provide the option to trigger an external alarm (such as a loud horn or marine strobe) to alert marina personnel or passersby that a problem exists.

Installation

Although you should always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, here are some general considerations for most any LP gas detector installation.

The sniffer control panel should be located in the vicinity of the LPG appliance, but must be operable without having to reach over open flames (a stove top for example).

Power should be provided via an appropriately sized circuit breaker or fuse from the “line” side of the battery switch for the house bank (the one always energized), ensuring the unit is always powered up and on guard, even with the battery switch in the off position. If a circuit breaker is used, it should be separated from the main panel and equipped with a lock or guard (to prevent it from being accidentally shut off).

LPG vapor is heavier than air and tends to “sink and flow” like water, seeking the lowest possible point. With shore installations there’s typically enough air flow to aid in dispersing leaking gas, however, a boat’s hull is essentially a watertight envelope, meaning explosive gases can be trapped in bilges or other low areas.

As such, sensors should be located beside and below appliances (under the stove for example) and at other low areas of the cabin or bilge where fumes are likely to accumulate. If mounted in the bilge, they should be located as low as possible without becoming submerged or subject to bilge splash (a general rule of thumb is three inches above the high bilge water level).

When choosing a sensor location, for the most accurate results avoid areas subject to strong ventilation (open hatches, portholes, exhaust fans, etc.), high moisture, high temperatures and excessive amounts of smoke.

Maintenance

Gas detection systems should be tested on a regular basis as per the manufacturer (monthly at a minimum – weekly if the LPG system is being used regularly). All units have a built-in self test for the internal electronics, which usually also automatically tests the sensor(s) and connecting wires.

Although the sensors and alarm system should be professionally tested annually, they can also be tested by owners using a butane lighter. Simply hold the lighter next to the sensor and press the trigger without lighting.

As with smoke and CO detectors, LPG sensors have a limited life span (typically five years) and should be replaced as directed by the manufacturer for optimum performance of the system.

Finally, while gas detectors are an important part of any LPG system installation, the first line of defense in detecting leaks are sniffers of the organic kind—specifically the noses of the crew. LPG suppliers are required by law to add an odorant to make leaks more noticeable, but just because you can’t smell gas doesn’t mean it isn’t there (the gas can remain after the odorant has dissipated). This makes the correct installation of a gas detector even more important.

Emergency bilge pump options, installation and maintenance.

Frank Lanier Photos

Like flares and life jackets, emergency bilge pumps are a safety investment that boat owners hope they’ll never need. Many make light of the topic by quoting that old adage about the best emergency bilge pump being a frightened person with a bucket. But scared folks get tired too—long before whatever’s letting all that water in is fixed. Emergency pumps provide valuable time when taking on water, time that can be spent searching for and repairing a leak, donning life jackets or making a distress call. To keep passengers from having to choose between grabbing their life jackets or joining the bucket brigade, here’s some common sense advice on emergency bilge pump options, installation and maintenance.

Know your type
There are a number of choices when it comes to back-up pumps, from engine driven units to manual pumps. However, electric powered centrifugal pumps are probably the most common and are the focus of this article. They pump a lot of water, are relatively inexpensive and are designed to operate while completely submerged. They also have large internal tolerances and can pass small amounts of debris (a big plus for emergency pumps), but this does make them highly sensitive to vertical or static head—in other words, the higher they have to push water vertically, the less effective they become.
In addition to electrical pumps, you may want to consider having a large capacity manual pump on board. Though useful as back-ups, keep in mind they’re powered by elbow grease and even the fittest crewmember will have a hard time keeping up an effective pace after awhile… assuming you can even spare a crewman to man the pump in the first place.
Engine-driven emergency pumps allow you to harness the tremendous power of the engine in the event of hull breach. They can be powered off the crankshaft pulley (using a manual or electric clutch assembly) or drive train. Some designs, for example, mount directly to the engine shaft and as long as it’s turning, the pump is operating and starts working automatically in the event of an emergency. Pumps of this type can pump up to a whopping 24,000 gph.
Another option is installing a suction takeoff from the engine’s raw water pump. Just remember that running the engine pump when dry will damage the impeller, and that the intake connection should be in front of the sea strainer (so you don’t suck bilge debris into the engine). This is a proven and accepted pumping method, but know what you’re doing before you do it, otherwise you can seriously damage your engine.

Installation tips
Back-up pumps should be securely mounted and configured to automatically turn on when bilge water levels reach a predetermined height above the turn-on point for the primary pump (typically three to four inches, but low enough to prevent water from overflowing the bilge and damaging furnishings or equipment). This lets the smaller primary pump take care of normal seepage (with less battery drain) and leaves the larger pump to kick in only when needed. It also keeps the back-up pump from resting in the normal accumulation of bilge water where it can become clogged with sludge and debris, or seized from disuse.
Discharge thru-hulls should be situated well above the waterline to prevent water from siphoning back into the bilge. Siphon breaks and riser loops are also recommended but ensure they reach at least 18 inches above static waterline where possible. Use marine grade hose for pump discharge runs and double clamp all bilge pump hoses with marine grade stainless where possible.
Make sure all pumps, float switches and strainers are easily accessible, essential for routine maintenance and emergency repairs. Install “manual on” switches for each pump in addition to any automatic float switches that may be installed. That way, should the float switch fail, you can still activate the pump via the manual switch.
Provide appropriate circuit protection for each pump and ensure all electrical connections are located well above normal bilge water levels (to reduce corrosion issues) and properly terminated with marine grade connectors.
Finally, as many hull breaches occur at the dock (due to failed thru-hulls, hoses, and the like) it’s always a good idea to include a visual/audible high water bilge alarm as part of your emergency de-watering strategy. Alarms should be loud enough to be heard over engine noise while under way, and ideally by anyone passing by or marina personnel when docked. Installing a visual “bilge pump on” indicator at the helm for each electric bilge pump is also a good idea, one that can provide even earlier indications that something is amiss. A bilge pump on/off counter for primary bilge pumps is also desirable to indicate how often bilge pumps are cycling (making a leak more noticeable).

Making the Switch to LEDs

New LED lights save energy and generate less heat.

We anchor a lot. Although our boat has a generator, we hate hearing it, so energy consumption is important as we prefer to live off our battery bank. Surprisingly, after the refrigerator/freezer, those little light bulbs are typically the next biggest draw on our electrical budget. If you don’t believe us, touch one of your cabin lights. If you’re still using halogen (12 volt) or incandescent (110 volt) bulbs, then the light fixture around the bulb is probably too hot to touch. Those lights draw so many amps because they are generating heat in addition to light. If you’re cruising Nova Scotia you might enjoy a heat lamp in your stateroom, but heat is the bane of most southern cruisers.

What’s in a bulb?
We’re all familiar with incandescent lights, the common household “light bulb” that is often used on older boats. Incandescent bulbs make light by heating a metal filament wire to a high temperature until it glows. Halogen bulbs, increasingly popular in marine 12-volt lighting systems, are just variations of incandescent lights, using a tungsten filament surrounded by a small amount of halogen. The halogen lets the light operate at a higher temperature, extending the operating life, and producing a brighter light. At this point it should be obvious that heat is an important element of these two forms of bulbs. In contrast, an LED (light-emitting diode) is a semiconductor light source, producing light by exciting electrons that release energy in the form of photons. It’s a completely different way of making light, one that has important consequences for marine lighting.

Pros and cons of LEDs
LEDs yield big dividends in terms of energy draw. For example, our LED chart light draws 0.15 amps, compared to 0.83 amps for a single halogen bulb. It may seem insignificant, but that’s over five times the draw. Added up over a couple nights at anchor, multiplied over the light-hours in the evenings, and that amperage use really adds up. And unlike halogen or incandescent lights, LEDs remain relatively cool. You can touch the metal holder around an LED bulb and it will only be warm.
Halogen bulbs may be known for their long lifetimes, but LEDs last even longer. This is even more important for marine use because LEDs do not rely on a fragile filament. They are more durable than halogen in environments with vibration, such as on a moving boat. And, because LEDs make light with electrons, the color of the light can be changed by altering the energy gap of the semiconductor. The same LED bulb can shine white (for regular use) and with the flip of a switch can shine red (to save your night vision when reading charts). No more red plastic film or duplicate lights for night-time navigation.
On the negative side, LED lights are expensive—even more expensive than the usual marine surcharge. A 12-volt LED fixture runs $40 to $200 each. The price reflects their new, specialized market and because LED lights require more precise current management. Another negative of LEDs is that they are not as bright as halogen lights. They produce a focused warm-white (good for reading) or cool-white (good for galley and work areas) light that doesn’t have the overall room-filling brightness of hot-white halogens.
SAFETY WARNING: Like a laser pointer, LED fixtures produce collimated light (light waves which run parallel and with little spread as the waves propagate). Avoid pointing the LED light source close to and directly into your eye or you could damage your retina.

Marine LED manufacturers
There are now scores of choices for marine LED lights, ranging from recessed fixtures to multi-light strips to flexible gooseneck chart lights. The major manufacturers include Cantalupi Italy, i2Systems, Dr. LED, Hella Marine, IMTRA Marine Products and Seamaster Lights. We were looking for traditional reading/chart lights, so we chose the Dr. LED “Cobra” model for its white/red combination, style and long gooseneck.

Installation and gotchas
Before you begin, remind yourself: it’s a boat. In other words, be ready for anything and don’t count on a trivial installation. Here are some of our “surprises,” which will hopefully prepare you for everything you might encounter on your own vessel.
Installing seven fixtures, we experienced stripped mounting screws, screws that couldn’t be accessed with a screwdriver, too-short wires and a bulkhead dangerously close to the exterior hull. So be ready with an assortment of short screwdrivers and a 90-degree screwdriver tool (a must-have on any boat). Invest a few dollars in a drill stop for any installations where you are drilling out toward the hull skin. It’s also wise to undertake the project when you have access to a hardware store with a good fastener selection, in case the included screws do not work in all your installation locations. You may not have the depth or you may need more bite, depending on the bulkhead material. And keep some extra bits of wire handy in case you cut something too short or need to add a lengthening splice.
The installation logic is simple. You’re going to remove the old fixture and, following the directions and templates included with your new fixture, connect it to the two wires coming out of your bulkhead.
Step one in any electrical project: turn off the power! Then unscrew and remove the old fixture, immediately clipping something securely to each wire so that they cannot slip into the abyss behind the bulkhead. Hold each wire with alligator-clip leads while working.
Rather than the plastic twist connectors used in home electrical projects, marine installations should use marine grade electrical connectors. These are much more secure, which is important, given that the wire is going to be pushed back behind the bulkhead. Crimp the connectors with a good pair of electrical connection crimpers and test the connection rigorously. Better to have the connection fail now (in your hand) versus later (underway and behind a bulkhead).
If there is any chance of moisture, then consider covering the entire crimped butt connection with shrink tubing. Shrink tubing also adds additional security against “wiggling” short-outs. If you’re concerned that the mounting screws are not properly biting, or want extra mounting security, you can add a bit of double-sided Scotch Outdoor Mounting Tape on the back of fixture.

TIP: If you ever need to remove something mounted with double-sided tape, hold a piece of dental floss tautly in two hands and slide it back and forth to split the tape and release the mounted object.

Lights. Camera. Action!
We chose to replace all our gooseneck lights which included high-use fixtures in the saloon, galley and staterooms. The LED lights are absolutely cooler, reducing the “heat lamp” effect in the staterooms. But remember, they are not as bright overall. We find that gooseneck LED lights work best when focused directly on a small area, such as onto a book, smaller work surface or chart table. To illuminate a broader area, bounce the focused light of the LED off a white bulkhead or headliner. (We plan to add additional LED fixtures, such as recessed units, that are more specifically designed for general “room-level” lighting.)
The new lights have made a big impact on our energy budget. Substituting seven LEDs for halogen lights saves nearly five amps—almost as much as the amp-draw from our small refrigerator/freezer.
About the Authors: Mark and Diana Doyle write the Managing the Waterway cruising guide and electronic charting series (managingthewaterway.com). They live aboard their (coolly lit) PDQ 34 power catamaran, Semi-Local.

EASY TO MAKE • DIY • low cost and featherweight

When you’re boating in the South, it’s all about the sun. They don’t call it the Sunshine State, the Sun Coast or the Sun Belt for nothing! But sunshine radiating into your boat’s cabin means additional heat in our southern climates where every degree of cooling matters. Those uncovered ports may seem small but add them up and they can contribute a lot of heat if not shaded and insulated.

Some Common Solutions

Many boat owners cover their ports with pieces of home foam insulation board. This material has good insulating properties but has some downsides. For starters, with pink foam on the inside and reflective foil on the outside, your beautiful boat starts to look like an old farm shed with insulated blocked windows. And from the interior, it’s hard to get a clean professional finished edge to the cut pieces. Do you really want to see ragged pieces of pink foam next to your teak or cherry?
Plastic corrugated sign material, purchased at home improvement stores or retail sign companies has been another popular material for port coverings. However, we discovered first-hand that this material is very difficult to shape. You can cut it with scissors or an X-Acto knife, but we were not happy with the level of finish. Our attempts to follow the template ended up looking like a grade-school blunt-tipped scissors project. That meant locating a place with CNC routing to cut the material precisely to our template with clean professional edges. No problem—until we found out that would drive the cost up to about $12 per shade. And subsequent replacement in a far-off locale would be a nightmare. That option was out.
Stiff-material solutions are not only difficult to craft yourself, but are cumbersome to store. Sometimes you want shade, but sometimes you want to look out the ports and have light. Stiff foam board is bulky to store and corrugated plastic risks scratching your interior wood finishes if not stored properly while underway. We finally concluded it was time to “think outside the box” for a new material and solution.

Think Like a Kid: Fun Foam

We searched home improvement, hardware, fabric and craft stores. Our mission was to find a lightweight material that had insulating properties and would block the sun yet let in some light while providing privacy when dockside. We needed a material that we could cut ourselves with scissors and that could easily removed and stored without scratching. Ideally, the installation wouldn’t require extensive fasteners such as Velcro tabs. The material needed to be impermeable to moisture, washable and inexpensive so we could easily replace them if a shade was damaged or became dirty over time. That’s when we discovered “Creatology Fun Foam,” rugged, high-density flexible foam sheets available at Michaels Arts & Crafts, a nationwide chain. These 12×18 inch sheets cost only $0.99 each and are available in many different colors. (We suggest a light color for reflecting heat and brightening the interior.) With our port sizes, we could cut two port shades out of one sheet, making this 8-port project’s total cost $4!

Materials Needed:

Creatology foam sheets (each sheet is 12×18 inches)
Kraft paper for templates
Ruler
Compass with pencil
Pencil
Scissors (preferably fine-tipped and curved, such as nail scissors)

Done in an Hour

To make your own flexible foam port shades, begin by making a precise template (see photo 1) of your port on Kraft paper using a straight ruler and a compass. The foam is flexible so you should be able to cut precise insets to tuck under tabs or through a knob to hold it in place without additional fasteners. Then, once you have a precise paper template, trace it onto a sheet of the Creatology foam with a pencil. Cut it out, cutting just inside your pencil tracing to remove the pencil marks. Repeat for each port.

You’re Done!

Leave the shades in place for sun protection or for nighttime privacy. Rotate them if you want to let in partial light or look out the port. Pop them off and store anywhere without worrying about weight or scratching. If they get dusty or dirty, simply wash them with soap and water.

When doing battle with the sea, you need well maintained soldiers

Considering the fact that seacocks are front line soldiers in the battle to keep water on the outside of your hull, the lack of maintenance they typically receive borders on treason. Like any equipment located out of sight in the dim recesses of the bilge, seacocks are expected to function when called to duty and generally receive little thought otherwise – until they fail. Here are some inspection and maintenance tips to help keep your seacocks ready, willing and able to join the battle.

Types of seacocks
The most common seacock styles are a tapered-plug, expanded-rubber-plug, and ball-valves. Gate valves, though sometimes used, are notorious troublemakers and not recommended for use as seacocks. Not only is the worm gear and associated guts of the  gate valve prone to corrosion and failure, it’s also possible for trash to prevent the gate from closing properly. Un-flanged ball valves screwed directly onto a through-hull are also fairly common, although this really isn’t an acceptable practice. Modern ball valve types featuring a supportive flange (like the traditional tapered-plug units) are a much better option.
Material-wise, seacocks will be of either marine grade bronze or composite construction (such as Marelon® for example).

Inspections
Seacocks should be inspected and exercised at least monthly to ensure both proper operation and to prevent any potential problems from elevating the onboard terror alert to Code Red. Start with a visual inspection of each seacock, keeping an eye out for anything unusual such as leaks, broken hose clamps, damaged or missing components (handles for example) and corrosion. If connected to the boat’s grounding system, check to make sure all connections are tight and corrosion-free for proper operation. Verify the installation of backing blocks and that each one is stable, leak-free, properly sized (surface area greater than that of the seacock flange) and in the case of wood, rot-free.
Next, check the seacock for smoothness of operation, ensuring it not only opens and closes, but can be easily reached in an emergency. It’s also important to check that the handle can be moved through its full range of operation without being blocked by equipment, cabinetry, etc. Seacocks found to be frozen or otherwise inoperative should be serviced immediately to return them to full proper working condition.
Other installation land mines to keep an eye out for include the use of PVC fittings and plastic to metal joints. Both materials have different expansion and contraction rates which can result in plastic fitting cracks or splits. Another issue to keep a lookout for are installations utilizing a short piece of pipe or hose between the seacock and through-hull, potentially introducing a failure point inside the hull that is unprotected by the valve.
If the boat is hauled, remove the hose and look through the seacock to verify operation and spot blockages. Another option is shining a flashlight into the through-hull from the outside and observing its operation while someone inside opens and closes it.
Now is also a good time to inspect all seacock hoses, making sure they are of the correct type (marine grade and approved for use on fittings below the waterline); free from damage or deterioration; and that each end is double clamped with stainless steel clamps where possible. Each hose has a limited lifespan and while replacement recommendations vary between manufacturers, 10 years is probably a prudent age for replacement of any of them.

Maintenance
While specific maintenance requirements will vary based on the type of seacocks you have installed (plug, ball, bronze, Marelon, etc.), general maintenance should include operating the seacock monthly as previously stated, as well as a good greasing at least twice a year (even for so-called “maintenance free” units).  Greasing a seacock while your boat is in the water can be accomplished following these steps:

1. Close the valve.
2. Pull the seacock hose.
3. Remove remaining water from
     the valve/tailpipe.
4. Swab a suitable waterproof
      grease onto the ball.
5. Inspect the hose for damage,
      deterioration, corroded hose
      clamps, etc., then reattach.
6. Exercise the valve four or five
      times to spread the lubricant.
Note:  Steps 4-6 can be conducted from outside the hull when hauled to lubricate the opposite side of ball and seals.

Now that you’re in tune with their needs, here are two closing thoughts on attaining true seacock Nirvana. First, it’s always a good idea to locate soft, tapered wood plugs (cones) of the appropriate size at each seacock. These plugs can be attached with light line or stowed in a portable “Damage Control” kit (along with a hammer) that should always be kept in an easily accessible location and ready for instant use.
Finally, posting a diagram showing the location of all seacocks in an easily visible location (above the chart table for example) is an excellent “knowledge is power” device, one that would come in handy during those pre-departure briefs. Now, it is to be hoped, you will never hear the question, “Where’s all that water in the bilge coming from?”

Your magnetic compass will always show you the way home, no matter what—Here’s

how to make sure it’s ready when you need it.

Although the conga line of new electronics jockeying for position at your helm may seem endless at times, the prudent mariner will always reserve space for a magnetic compass. The compass often takes back seat to modern navigational gear, but it still remains the only piece of equipment that shows direction, hence the way home, even when there’s a total loss of onboard power. Here’s a look at some aftermarket compass installation tips to make sure your new Old Faithful is accurate.

Mounting options

There are a variety of compass mount styles. Here’s a look at the five most common. Bracket mount: This style of compass comes with a removable bracket that you bolt or screw into the mounting surface where the compass will be located. As the bracket is adjustable, the surface can be horizontal, vertical, or angled. Bracket-mounted compasses are the simplest to install, but they are also less stable than units installed using cutouts in the helm or bulkhead.
Surface mount: Easy to install, surface-mount units come with a mounting base that can be glued, bolted, or screwed to any flat, horizontal location. Flush mount: Similar to surface-mount units, however they require a cutout in the console or mounting area (which must be horizontal) that accepts the body of the compass, allowing it to sit flush.
Bulkhead mount: This style of compass is mounted directly to a vessel’s bulkhead and like the flush-mounted unit, it also requires a cutout to accept the body of the unit, although in this case it is vertically oriented.  Dash mount: These compasses are a space-saving option for smaller powerboats with a vertical console. They are similar to bulkhead-mounted compasses, but much smaller, allowing them to be mounted at the helm, much like console gauges.

Installation considerations

When selecting a location for your compass, ensure the unit will be level, aligned parallel with the vessel’s centerline. It must be free from deviation (the unintended effect of electrical or magnetic items located near your compass) or located where it can be compensated.
Check proper orientation by temporarily mounting the compass at your chosen location, then sighting along the unit’s lubber lines center pin, to verify that they line up properly with the fore-aft line of the vessel.
Next, check the area around your temporary installation for potential sources of deviation. Stereo speakers are common troublemakers due to their large magnets, but any metal item or electronics within six to eight feet (sometimes farther) can cause problems. Be sure to test the effects of the electrical or electronic equipment when it is in both the on and off position. The same goes for the engine—check the compass while it is off, idling, and at various RPM as well.

Compensation

Although taking the steps outlined above will help reduce the effects of deviation, you won’t be able to totally rid your boat of all magnetic influence. That’s the reason every compass requires a deviation card indicating how many degrees you have to add or subtract from your heading in order to obtain the correct magnetic reading. A deviation card addresses deviation as well as variation (the difference between magnetic and geographical poles).

Anchor windlasses come in a variety of styles—vertical or horizontal (in reference to drum orientation), manual, electric, or hydraulic-powered. Each has its own set of pros and cons with regards to maintenance and upkeep. While almost bulletproof, the manual units require conscientious greasing and cleaning; hydraulic units can develop leaks, and electrical units have numerous components (batteries, switches, solenoids, etc.) that require due diligence because they are usually located in exposed, often wet locations.
While you should always follow the maintenance schedule provided by the manufacturer for your particular model, here are some good basic tips that can help extend the life of any windlass. Rinse the windlass thoroughly with fresh water after each outing to wash off salt, sand, and mud. Rinsing an all-chain rode before it enters the anchor locker is also a good idea, particularly if winch components are located in the locker and can be spattered with muck and debris.
Check the gearcase lube oil level weekly (most worm gear driven windlasses will have a sight glass for this). Milky oil indicates the presence of water (typically from a failed seal) and must be corrected immediately. Although most windlasses include this feature, it depends on the make and model. Check yours and if it does have it, take advantage of it.
Check windlass mounting hardware regularly for looseness, movement, corrosion, and leaks. Leaks are often caused by a broken bedding seal, typically the result of a windlass being overstressed. Inspect all electrical connections monthly for problems such as corrosion or charring (as a result of arcing). Turn off all power, then dissemble and clean corroded connections with a wire brush and electrical cleaner (vinegar works well in a pinch). Terminal and post connections should be clean and tight—coating them with di-electric grease and installing insulating rubber boots will protect against corrosion and accidental shorting. Hydraulic systems have an electrical component that is likely protected in the wheelhouse.
For units with the motor and gearbox located below decks, check the casing regularly for rust. Most are constructed of painted steel and will readily corrode in the damp environment of the anchor locker should the finish be damaged. Horizontal units are self-contained, so all of their operating hardware is above decks. That doesn’t mean you can ignore it. Address corrosion immediately (clean, prime, and paint) to prevent it from worsening.
Inspect foredeck foot switches for damage and proper operation. Ensure the hinged covers are in place (to prevent accidental operation) and that the covers themselves operate easily and have a good seal when closed. Check the rubber diaphragms for cracks, tears, or deterioration—spraying them regularly with a UV shield (such as 303 Aerospace Protectant) will noticeably extend their service life.

Swinging the Compass
Many methods have been developed to “swing the compass” (which means to verify its accuracy). The simplest one I’ve seen is listed on the Ritchie Navigation website. We’ve reprinted it here.

Step 1. With the compass in its intended position, but not finally secured, select a course on your chart using two identifiable marks, buoys or landmarks that are within 10 degrees of the North/South line. Try to select this course so that you can maneuver your boat “down-range” of the marks selected.
Step 2. From a position down-range of the North/South marks, and keeping the marks lined up, run the boat visually along the Northerly course selected. Turn the port/starboard compensator until the compass reads correctly.
Step 3. Reversing direction, run the boat Southerly, again keeping the marks lined up. If the compass is not correct at this time, there is an alignment error. To correct, rotate the compass itself to remove one half of this error. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 and then recheck this Step 3.
Step 4. Simply repeat the procedures of Steps 1, 2 and 3, except this time, use an East/West course and the fore/aft compensator (although by this time any alignment error should have been eliminated).
Step 5. Upon completing the procedure, secure the compass in its final position.

To assure accuracy on all headings, check for deviation every 30 degrees and record any deviation on a deviation card. Ritchie recommends checking at the start of each boating season for changes in deviation. If you feel that the deviation on your boat is of an unusual nature, the services of a professional compass adjuster will be a wise investment. For more information, visit ritchienavigation.com.

Keeping it maintained can make the difference

between a nice weekend and a pain in the back.

Nothing promotes a good night’s sleep at anchor like heavy ground tackle—except maybe the knowledge that there’s a functional anchor windlass at the ready to save your back by hauling it all onboard in the morning. Anchor windlasses perform reliably under the harshest conditions with little complaint, however even these silent deckhands require regular maintenance to ensure proper operation.

Anchor windlasses come in a variety of styles—vertical or horizontal (in reference to drum orientation), manual, electric, or hydraulic-powered. Each has its own set of pros and cons with regards to maintenance and upkeep. While almost bulletproof, the manual units require conscientious greasing and cleaning; hydraulic units can develop leaks, and electrical units have numerous components (batteries, switches, solenoids, etc.) that require due diligence because they are usually located in exposed, often wet locations.
While you should always follow the maintenance schedule provided by the manufacturer for your particular model, here are some good basic tips that can help extend the life of any windlass. Rinse the windlass thoroughly with fresh water after each outing to wash off salt, sand, and mud. Rinsing an all-chain rode before it enters the anchor locker is also a good idea, particularly if winch components are located in the locker and can be spattered with muck and debris.
Check the gearcase lube oil level weekly (most worm gear driven windlasses will have a sight glass for this). Milky oil indicates the presence of water (typically from a failed seal) and must be corrected immediately. Although most windlasses include this feature, it depends on the make and model.  Check yours and if it does have it, take advantage of it.
Check windlass mounting hardware regularly for looseness, movement, corrosion, and leaks.  Leaks are often caused by a broken bedding seal, typically the result of a windlass being overstressed.  Inspect all electrical connections monthly for problems such as corrosion or charring (as a result of arcing). Turn off all power, then dissemble and clean corroded connections with a wire brush and electrical cleaner (vinegar works well in a pinch).  Terminal and post connections should be clean and tight—coating them with di-electric grease and installing insulating rubber boots will protect against corrosion and accidental shorting. Hydraulic systems have an electrical component that is likely protected in the wheelhouse.
For units with the motor and gearbox located below decks, check the casing regularly for rust. Most are constructed of painted steel and will readily corrode in the damp environment of the anchor locker should the finish be damaged. Horizontal units are self-contained, so all of their operating hardware is above decks. That doesn’t mean you can ignore it. Address corrosion immediately (clean, prime, and paint) to prevent it from worsening.
Inspect foredeck foot switches for damage and proper operation. Ensure the hinged covers are in place (to prevent accidental operation) and that the covers themselves operate easily and have a good seal when closed. Check the rubber diaphragms for cracks, tears, or deterioration—spraying them regularly with a UV shield (such as 303 Aerospace Protectant) will noticeably extend their service life.

Buy a used boat (or own a new one long enough) and you’ll likely be faced with the need to repair or update your instrument panel. Sometimes it’s due to necessity; the need to cover a hole left by the relocation or removal of an instrument or gauge, for example. Other times it may be cosmetic, such as a panel that has become cracked or sun-damaged.  Whichever situation you’re faced with, here are some options to place you on the path to panel nirvana.
For covering unused panel holes, options include purchasing prefabricated inserts or blanks, installing another gauge of similar size or simply replacing the panel.  If the panel or console is fiberglass, you have the additional option of repairing the cutout with epoxy or fiberglass, followed by paint or gelcoat application (depending on the existing finish).
In cases where the panel needs to be replaced due to damage or appearance, there are numerous choices available. Aluminum and plastic are the most common choices, other options range from stainless steel to carbon fiber.  Panel manufacturers also offer a wide variety of finishes for the materials, such as burnished metal or simulated wood grain.  Many also allow customers to provide their own specialty materials for even more customization. (Finally, a use for that piece of Hawaiian Koa wood you purchased at the Ala Wai Yacht Club flea market.)
Full panel replacement also gives you the option of rearranging gauges to better suit your needs.  Examples of this include grouping like gauges for dual-engine installations together (temperature, oil pressure, etc) and on their respective sides.  One neat installation trick is to rotate the gauges so that all indicators point in the same direction while underway and with all engine indications operating normally (straight up for example), making problem indications more noticeable, and it looks cool.
While building a replacement panel of wood or Plexiglas is within the ability of most any DIYer, the easiest route is to purchase a ready-made OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) panel (if available) or to remove the existing one and send to a company that offers design and fabrication of instrument panels, such as MMES Custom Panels (wewireboats.com).  They’ll be able to use the old panel to fabricate a new one, along with the options of omitting existing holes no longer being used, adding new ones, or modifying gauge and instrument location patterns.
For a bit more hands-on involvement when designing (or redesigning) a panel, companies such as Front Panel Express (frontpanelexpress.com) allow you to design and order your panel online. The company’s free software (Front Panel Designer) not only lets you design the panel and add desired options, but it also provides instant price calculations each step of the way.

Most inflatable REpairs can be easy DIY Jobs.

The popularity of boats with air tubes, from inflatable dinghies to rigid hull inflatables (RIBs), is a testament to the design and technology of this ubiquitous and heavily relied-on type of craft. As advanced as tube technology has become, however, it is still possible for your inflatable to spring a leak. Most of these leaks will be tiny holes, punctures, or cuts that you can repair easily with the inexpensive kits available from the boat’s manufacturer or most any marine store.
Before you can repair your inflatable, you need to know if it’s constructed of PVC or Hypalon. The glues, solvents, and method of repair are very different for each material and failure to match them correctly can cause the patch to fail or actually damage the boat.

General repair tips
Unless the damage is blatantly obvious, the first step is to find the leak. Fully inflate the tubes and brush a solution of dishwashing soap and water over the inflatable, one section at a time.  Soap bubbles indicate a leak—mark it with a felt-tip pen continue looking, as there may be more than one.
Next cut a suitably sized patch for the hole.  Round off the edges of the patch to reduce the chance of snagging and improve the overall appearance of the repair. For smaller punctures, the patch should extend beyond the hole one inch in all directions—increase this to two inches for cuts or tears.
Rips or holes larger than one inch or those located within two inches of a seam should be repaired using both internal and external patches, ideally installed by a certified repair facility.  If that’s not an option and emergency repairs are needed, larger splits or those with jagged edges can be stitched up with heavy duty needle and thread, both to add strength and keep the edges aligned while patching. The Barton ClamSeal (bartonmarine.com), MSRP: $29.95, is another good option for emergency repairs.
Before applying a patch, clean the area to be repaired thoroughly with a stiff bristle brush and solution of soap and water. If present, old glue will have to be completely removed, either by sanding, scraping, or carefully grinding with a Dremel or similar rotary tool.
Once dry, wipe both patch and surface to be repaired with a clean cloth dampened with the appropriate solvent (MEK for PVC; toluene or acetone for Hypalon) to remove oil and grease.
Deflate the tube and lay it on a flat, solid surface.  Hold the patch in place and trace around it with a pencil, then tape off the repair area with masking tape. This makes the repair look neater and protects the surrounding area from excess glue, scuffing during surface preparation, etc. If the tube is Hypalon, give it a light sanding with 180-grit paper, then wipe again with solvent (do this for the patch as well).  Wait 10 minutes after this second solvent wipe before gluing.
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, apply adhesive to the marked area and to the back of the patch with a stiff-bristle glue or paint brush suitable for use with lacquer (natural-hair, for example). Two-part contact cement requires time for the solvent to evaporate, meaning both patch and tube should be only slightly tacky prior to assembly. For best results, glue out of direct sunlight at a temperature between 64 degrees and 77 degrees Fahrenheit with less than 70-percent humidity.
Once the adhesive has reached the proper tackiness, start from one edge and carefully lay the patch onto the glued area. Once in place, press out all air bubbles and wrinkles (from the center of the patch outward) using a hard roller or a large tablespoon. Pressing also ensures the patch has good contact with the tube.  Wait at least 24 hours (48 if possible) before re-inflating the tube.