A New Cruising Agenda

Warderick Wells, Exumas Land and Sea Park —Paul Harding photo

By Sara Lewis

What’s on your list of cruising destinations and stopovers in The Bahamas? Are you looking for a different route plan instead of the popular race to George Town or the winter marina “condo” in Abaco? How about the unsurpassed scenery and unspoiled natural settings of some of the National Parks of The Bahamas close to your traditional route? Embarking on a different purpose for cruising The Bahamas may open you to more beautiful places and create a personally tailored voyage for your particular passion, whether it be adding birds to your Life List, or opening up underwater vistas of sealife. See how many pristine preserves you can add to your list!

The Bahamas National Trust has set aside many national treasures, both on land and at sea. The largest land park is Andros’ West Side National Park, which has been recently expanded to house over 1.2 million acres. The Exuma Land and Sea Park at 176 square miles (112,640 acres) is the world’s first area designated as both a land and sea park. Probably the most remote land park is on Inagua, slightly smaller than Andros’ park at 183,740 acres.

Each of the 27 parks has a slightly different purpose. The land parks are set aside to protect various types of vegetation such as pine and hardwood forests, wetlands, mangroves, rare palms, beaches and dunes. These are secure places for seabirds, The Bahama parrot, land crabs, iguanas and the West Indian flamingo (The Bahamas’ beautiful national bird).

Your list path will take you to the sea parks where you can anchor or pick up a mooring nearby and travel by dinghy—not by car—to observe the natural beauty above and below the clear aquamarine water. How many underwater caves, blue holes, tidal creeks, coral reefs and stromatolites can you fit in? How many sea turtles can you spot?

For many cruising yachts, the first landfall is the Abacos. Proceeding to the southernmost preserve in the Sea of Abaco, the Pelican Cays Land and Sea Park makes for an easy visit by providing a mooring for your dinghy just east of Sandy Cay. You are only a short swim away from visually striking coral reefs and undersea caves with a rich diversity of sealife.

From there, it’s time for a big ocean leap for your next sea park experience, the oldest in The Bahamas, the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. You’ll want to spend some time here to see and do everything and perhaps even volunteer at the Park Headquarters to help with the chores that require many hands to protect the environment. From Wax Cay Cut in the north to Conch Cay Cut in the south, this is the world’s first park that encompasses both land and sea. At Warderick Wells Park Headquarters (and also at Shroud, Hawksbill and Cambridge Cays), you can pick up an environmentally safe mooring as a base for your explorations as you check off the Boo Boo Hill blowhole, iguanas, hutias (large nocturnal rodents), stromatolites and sea turtles. Don’t forget the daily fish/shark interactions at HQ. Unquantifiable is the number of exquisite shades of blue of the surrounding waters. See how many variations of cerulean you can identify on your palette. You may find it hard to leave here unless you remember that there are more exquisite places to see “down de way.”

Since George Town in Elizabeth Harbour is one of the most popular destinations in The Bahamas, it will be easy to follow the parade down to Great Exuma. Just past the eastern end of the harbour are some of the most exquisite waters and islands you will see—Moriah Harbour Cay National Park at 13,440 acres of beaches and dunes, mangrove creeks and sea grass beds, coral reefs and sandbores. It includes not only Moriah Cay but also Elizabeth Island, Guana Cay, Fowl Cay and Whelk Cay, plus lots of little rocks and islets in between. (Elizabeth Island and Guana Cay are privately owned with dwellings onshore.)

After your exploration of Moriah Cay and its environs, exit Elizabeth Harbour’s eastern cut and set your course for another visual treat, Conception Island, believed to be one of the three islands that Columbus visited. It is a sanctuary for many migrating birds, among them the spectacular long-tailed snowy tropicbirds, and a nesting area for sea turtles as well. Nearby Booby Cay is a haven for sooty terns and brown noddies. The ornithologist might find his or her Life List growing at that point!

Does your schedule say it’s time to go north again? If time permits, you can work your way back up the Exumas and take the Decca Channel over to Andros so that you don’t miss the world’s third largest barrier reef and the highest concentration of blue holes. Andros’ Northern and Southern Marine Parks and the Blue Holes National Park preserve a significant part of this ecosystem.

In the interest of keeping you on a more direct route, some alternate but enticing prongs have been left out. You can augment the route above by first adding a stop at Peterson Cay off Grand Bahama; Walkers Cay in the northernmost Abacos; Black Sound Reserve Cay off Green Turtle Cay; Fowl Cay Preserve off Man O’ War Cay; and Clifton Heritage National Park at West Bay on New Providence.

You’ve completed the loop of the most accessible sea parks in The Bahamas. However, now you might need to go back and re-visit because you’ve only just begun!

Come for what’s new. Return for what stays the same.

By Liz Pasch

Photography by Liz Pasch and Scott Pearson

The phrase, “better late than never” has never been in my vocabulary so as usual, I’m the first to arrive at the Fort Lauderdale Executive Airport for my Sky Limo Air Charter flight to the Bahamas. The pilot, appreciative of my punctuality, verifies my passport and assures me that my traveling companions will arrive soon to depart for the annual swimsuit photo shoot, held this year at Highbourne Cay on the north end of the Exumas.

He was right and a few hours later—after clearing customs and immigration on Andros and another 35-minute flight to Normans Cay, 35 miles southeast of Nassau—10 passengers and a pile of equipment and luggage are on two 31-foot Ocean Master center consoles weaving through water that’s skinnier than a supermodel. Our driver, Joel Miller, knows the area well, having lived on Highbourne since he was 14. Just as reassuring is the fact that the photo shoot producer, Paige, knows Joel well, and trusts her friend of more than 25 years with the safety of her most precious cargo—the people who have been put in her care for four days.

We arrive in the protected harbor of Highbourne Cay Marina with over 750 feet of face dock to accommodate yachts up to 180 feet, plus 16 slips for boats up to 75 feet and floating dock for smaller boats and tenders. The marina docks, buildings and cottages have been rebuilt or replaced over the past few years under new ownership, and are fastidiously designed and exquisitely decorated. While some investors would opt for the income that high-rise condo towers would bring, instead, two, three and four bedroom cottages—more aptly described as luxury villas—provide serene accommodations for those who want more space than their boats provide for guests.

But while the impeccably landscaped grounds and facilities are impressive, the fishing and diving superb, and the staff professional and attentive, I sense there’s something else that attracts people to this small island. My growling stomach vaporizes the thought, however, and I head up to the newly opened, open-air Xuma Restaurant for lunch. Perched on a hillside that overlooks the bay and beach, it’s a spectacular location from which to watch the sailing cat headed for the marina, the blue-hulled yacht setting anchor in the bay and later, the widely acclaimed Bahamian sunset. Even with such a spectacular view, the nagging notion returns that there’s something else that lures people to Highbourne Cay. I finish my spinach salad and freshly caught grilled mahi—which I was told school through the area in March, April and May for incredible fishing—and hop on one of the loaner bicycles to find out what that something is.

Managers Kevin and Carolyn Cartwright—who recently replaced Barbara Thrall and Ian Macbeth, the former managers of Highbourne Cay for 14 years—are 7^th and 8^th generation Bahamians with extensive experience in tourism. They have a deep, personal commitment to making the island experience for visitors the best it can be, where snorkeling, lobstering, spearing, renting boats, beachcombing and exploring the island are some of visitors’ favorite pastimes.

“Every Bahamian is an ambassador. It is a privilege to represent such a beautiful country since there are many other places people could go to visit and spend their vacation time and money,” says Kevin, whose commitment to continue to improve the island’s carbon footprint includes recent approval for produce and herb gardens, recycling glass for shipment to Nassau for processing, and receptacles for “Cans for Kids”, a non-profit that supports an orphanage on Nassau.

An easy pedal down the road past my cottage, a sign points the way to a spring, which I find odd, but nevertheless follow a rocky path that ends at a white sand beach where I meet Kerry Wennerberg and Ann Shipley, who dinghied in from their boat anchored on the beach, a 1989 46-foot Jarvis Newman they had been cruising on through the Exumas. They didn’t know the whereabouts of the spring but I promised to tell them if I found it.

The paved road leads past the staff housing, spacious Brazilian-style cottages previously rented to island guests, and service buildings that support the island infrastructure. Riding full circle I end up back at the marina no closer to having found the answer but instead, I have a wicked thirst. As luck would have it, a dockside happy hour had just started by four couples that initially met at Chub Cay while cruising and are now fast friends with three decades of cruising history between them. Hailing from Michigan, Maryland, Missouri and Kentucky, their common thread is a love of the boating lifestyle. “We would never have met if it wasn’t for cruising. We’d always meet at Highbourne on our Bahamas cruises,” says Janet as she hands me a cool drink. “Boating relationships don’t have the pressure of work or competition so we’re free to be ourselves.”

The familiar happy hour scene is played on nearly every dock at nearly every marina but at Highbourne Cay, there’s something different. While I try to figure out what that something is, a yacht approaches a slip while a tall, lanky dockhand makes his way down the dock to catch their lines. A woman on the bow of Retired Sailor III waves enthusiastically to “Talls,” who greets her happily and flashes a huge smile. Once safely in the slip, they exchange more warm greetings with the kind of familiarity that’s comfortable, reassuring, rare.

Over the next few days I discover first-hand that even first-time guests are treated with the same warmth as 40-year island veterans. Like a sumptuous wedding feast or holiday dinner, a Bahamian-style lunch is served in a gazebo high atop a hill with a 360-degree view of the island. Some of the staff, my new Bahamian friends, eat lunch with me and share how they feel about Highbourne. Paul’s very best day working was his first day on the dock and says, “I love the boats.” Jamilah’s earliest memory was as a very young girl walking the rocky shore looking for shells and remembers feeling like an explorer. Malissa talks about the calm of the island and says, “My place is Highbourne Cay.” But the most remarkable comment shared by a staff member was about a guest who had been going to Highbourne Cay since 1979. “He’s someone you can look up to and leads a good example. He has always encouraged me to do my best.” Recalling his sound advice brings a tear to her eye, the kind of emotion that is frequently shared between family members or close friends, but rarely between customers and employees.

Those are the kind of relationships and memories that are prevalent, and are that special something on Highbourne. They occur as naturally as the rock, the sand and the waves, almost as if the island itself requires it, and are sure to be emblazoned on the hearts of all who visit, which make Highbourne more than just an island for all who tarry. Just as Malissa said, “My place is Highbourne Cay,” once you visit, it’s certain to be yours too. highbournecaybahamas.com

Antebellum architecture and oysters galore make
this Gulf-crossing port worth a longer stay.

By Marty Richardson / Michael Athorn Photos

Mention Florida’s coastal areas and most folks think only of those on the East (variously called First, Space, Treasure and Gold Coast) and West (Cultural, Sun, Nature and Emerald Coasts), but oft overlooked is the State’s Panhandle which is why the locals fondly call this the Forgotten Coast. In reality, the area is unforgettable and its focal point, the Apalachicola Bay area, boasts pristine beaches, peaceful rivers and shallow bays and marshes protected by beautiful barrier islands. The Bay is home to some of the best seafood in the country, including 90 percent of Florida’s oyster crop and 10 percent of the entire U.S. harvest. And in the middle of the Bay’s north shore is historic Apalachicola.
A busy port town since the 1800s, the harbor first shipped cotton, then cypress lumber, and now all those oysters. It’s also the jumping off point, along with Carabelle to the east, for the annual parade of “Loopers”—pleasure cruisers making their way around the eastern half of the U.S. via the Mississippi River and Great Lakes. Many mariners have spent pleasant days or weeks in this friendly town awaiting the weather window for the overnight crossing of “The Big Bend” to Tarpon Springs or Clearwater.

Staying ashore or on the water
This charming town, with restored antebellum and preserved Victorian-style homes and historic buildings, is a special place to visit by boat or by car. Romantic bed & breakfast inns and fine hotels abound, and the town offers several places to dock your boat.
All marinas here are an easy walk to the main shopping and dining district. The Apalachicola City Wharf advertises “a few transient slips,” but caters mostly to commercial vessels. The Apalachicola Municipal Marina has a shallow approach depth of less than four feet at low tide, so you might want to try one of several private marina options for dockage.
Water Street features three marinas: Apalachicola Marina Inc. which serves the commercial fleet and recreational cruisers with a new 155-foot dock; Water Street Hotel & Marina, a luxury condo hotel complex and a fine place to stay ashore with an outdoor pool and 20 slips to accommodate vessels up to 55 feet—with BoatU.S. discounts; and Apalachicola Boat Slips and Ramp which can take vessels up to 45 feet in length. Scipio Creek Marina on Market Street, the city’s largest marina facility, accommodates vessels up to 100 feet in length and carries a full line of boating supplies, gas and diesel. Try the on-site Papa Joe’s Raw Bar where you can enjoy shucked-to-order Apalachicola Bay oysters, fresh-caught local seafood and a view of Scipio Creek, and beyond it, the Apalachicola River.
If you like historic inns, try the Gibson Inn, a fine example of Florida “Cracker” architecture built as a first-class luxury hotel in 1907. Sit back on its classic wrap-around porch or settle down in one of the 30 guest rooms furnished with antiques. Or, check in at the Coombs House Inn, an elegant Bed & Breakfast in a restored Victorian mansion.

Florida’s oyster capital
Fine food can be had in just a few square blocks of Apalachicola. You can get a great steak, but why would you with oysters, oysters, everywhere? On Water Street you’ll find Up the Creek Raw Bar, where fresh oysters are served in a casual outdoor atmosphere. Caroline’s River Dining, located in the Apalachicola River Inn (where all guest rooms have river views) boasts oysters 11 ways: Chilled, Key West, stew, Po Boy, Asian Barbeque, Kayarain, Motoyaki, St. Jacque, Saltim Bocca, Lim-O-Zine, and Boat Flambe. The Inn also features the Boss Oyster Restaurant, which was named one of Florida’s Top Five Waterfront Dining Spots by visitflorida.com. Boss features oysters as simple as freshly shucked with a bit of lemon, to dozens of fancy mouth-watering baked versions. All are harvested by a third-generation oysterman on Boss’ own boat, docked right in front. It doesn’t get any fresher than that!
Nearby, try the Owl Café and its Wine and Tap Rooms, where you can sample the Forgotten Coast’s best beer selection, lump blue crab cakes, black grouper, spicy Jambalaya, deep-fried local oysters, or the weekend brunch with its signature crab cakes Benedict. Just down the block the Hole in the Wall Oyster Bar serves seafood, soups and casseroles in a casual, historic atmosphere. For delicious Caribbean and South American dishes, including a tapas menu, try Tamara’s Café. And you shouldn’t miss the Apalachicola Seafood Grill that has been serving fresh seafood since 1903, easily found under the only traffic signal downtown.

Spring events draw visitors
Something is always happening in “Apalach.” On March 24th of this year, Apalachicola hosts a downtown ArtWalk where local artists sell their work as you enjoy a progressive wine tasting and hors d’oeuvres, followed by the Dixie Does Nashville Apalachicola annual singer/songwriter festival. Or catch this year’s Annual Apalachicola Antique & Classic Boat and Auto Show April 20th & 21st, featuring the 1877 Governor Stone gaff-rigged schooner. On Saturday, May 5th, the city will host the 20th annual Apalachicola Home and Garden Tour, featuring private historic homes not normally open to the public, along with a gourmet lunch. (apalachicolahistorichometour.org)

More History
If you miss the Home Tour event, you can take in lots of Apalachicola’s historic architecture any day, on foot, by bicycle or car. In an area just six blocks long and six blocks wide, you can see over 30 historic homes and buildings on the Chamber of Commerce’s Walking Tour (apalachicolabay.org). If you have a car, this list expands to over 50. Make sure to visit the John Gorrie Museum State Park. In the mid-1850s, Gorrie invented a machine that produced ice, laying the groundwork for modern refrigeration and air conditioning. Another historic gem is the Raney House, on the National Register of Historic Homes, built in 1838, and open for tours Tuesdays through Saturdays. History also lives at the Orman House Historic State Park, the 1838 antebellum home on 5th Street. The guided tour here explains 200 years of Apalachicola history. A contemporary counterpoint is in the front yard: a brand new bronze sculpture made from the original mold of the Three Servicemen Statue that is part of the Vietnam Memorial in Washington, D.C. Just across the street you can stroll through the Chapman Botanical Garden and discover some of the area’s natural flora.

Local Shopping
Apalachicola’s wide, tree-lined streets feature rows of historic ship’s stores, cotton warehouses, net factories and sponge warehouses, which are now home to sophisticated shops, galleries and restaurants. Visit Wefing’s Maritime Village where local craftsmen display their wares, or the Tin Shed, a unique nautical antique and gift shop. Galleries include Artemis’ Little Gallery by the Sea, featuring regional and local artists, while the Grady Market is a collection of antique, clothing, gift and art shops in the turn of the century Grady Building.

But Apalachicola is not just a typical Florida tourist town. You’ll also see working fishing vessels, oyster houses, and shrimp packing plants. Combine this with some of the best seafood in the country, great places to stay and some of the friendliest residents you’re likely to find anywhere, and your visit to the Forgotten Coast is sure to be unforgettable.

Yacht club membership now has even more privileges.

By Marty Richardson

Teresa Scott MYC Photo

Times are tough and current economic conditions cause mariners to seek ways to “boat smarter,” plan trips to maximize fuel efficiency, gunkhole more often and search for reasonable docking options. Surprisingly, many Florida cruisers have found that yacht club membership can help hold down boating costs.

Here’s how it works. There are 36 Florida yacht clubs that comprise a group known as the Florida Council of Yacht Clubs (FCYC). Any active cruiser who belongs to one of these FCYC member clubs receives the first night dockage free (that’s right, free) at each club, once every 30 days. Tom Smith, 2012 FCYC Secretary and member of Marathon Yacht Club, notes, “The Council is so interested in encouraging our members to visit member clubs that we sponsor an annual contest with awards going to the members who visit the most clubs.”

Members of each club are provided with the FCYC’s Guide to the Clubs by Land and Water in printed and CD formats. This handy and comprehensive reference includes nautical chart reproductions of club locations and approaches by water, nearby anchorages, radio contact information, directions for those arriving by car, distances to shopping and dining establishments, as well as services offered by each club and hours of operation. FCYC members enjoy dining, social and facilities privileges at any of these clubs; many have swimming pools, health and fitness clubs, tennis courts, golf, loaner bicycles, cable TV hookups, Wi-Fi, fuel and pumpouts.

After the first free night of dockage, additional nights can be booked at reduced rates. Charges for dockside power, restaurant, bar and fueling (where available) will be billed to the cruiser’s home club. A few clubs have limitations on draft, lengths of boats accommodated, and number of guest slips, so it’s important to call the individual club dockmaster in advance for reservations.

The Council was founded in 1961 by 13 yacht clubs on the west coast of Florida, and they celebrated 50 years in operation just last year. The FCYC sponsors interclub cruises for member boats along both Florida coasts and the Bahamas, and organizes professional cruises for members to exciting locations like Monte Carlo, Greece, Denmark, Germany, the Panama Canal and the St. Lawrence Seaway. Active in water-oriented organizations such as the National Boating Federation and the Florida Ports and Water Resources Association, the Council also supports the interests of its boating members in legislative matters.

Now you know what a bargain and pleasure FCYC membership can be. So, if you’re not already a member of a participating club, join up and put these (and other) member clubs on your cruising plan. Check the FCYC website at floridacouncilofyachtclubs.com for further information.

A Few Noteworty FCYC Member Clubs:

Marathon, the Heart of the Keys Marathon Yacht Club (MYC), in Marathon on Vaca Key, is one of the most popular clubs among FCYC cruisers, and just celebrated its 60th year in operation. In the heart of the Florida Keys, it’s noted for its friendly, casual atmosphere and spectacular sunsets across beautiful Florida Bay.

MYC is famous for the Friday bring-your-own-entrée outdoor cookout, complete with live entertainment. Try the club’s Happy Hour Sunday, with free hot dogs (bring a dish to pass) and half-priced drinks, or Tuesday’s Blue Plate Specials with an all-you-can-eat ice cream sundae bar. Check out the monthly Raw Bar and Prime Rib nights, or the weekly Wednesday Burgers at the Bar night. Members enjoy many boating rendezvous (Key West and Islamorada are favorite destinations), plus an annual bus trip to February’s Miami International Boat Show. The club also sponsors a popular quarterly fishing derby.

MYC is just across the isthmus from Vaca Key’s famous Boot Key Harbor mooring field and is convenient to a number of private marinas that offer all the services cruisers may need. While there, keep the family busy at the many area attractions, including Crane Point Museum and Nature Center, and the Turtle Hospital which rescues and rehabilitates sea turtles. Mark your calendar for March 10-11, when the city hosts the annual Marathon Seafood Festival. This family-friendly event has been held for over 30 years and features fresh, locally-caught Keys seafood at amazing prices. Just dock at the MYC, walk across Highway A1A, and you’re there.

Bird Key, boating paradise

Bird Key Yacht Club (BKYC), in Sarasota, has an outdoor pool, tennis courts and a fully-equipped health club. The clubhouse sports a new main entrance and lobby and while inside, choose from three dining rooms. I recommend the Compass Bar where you can take part in Wednesday night’s Happy Hour accompanied by Pub Fare featuring small plates at small prices. There are a dozen items to choose from, like crispy calamari, Ahi tuna, soft shell jumbo crab, Margarita-grilled flatbread pizza or Black Angus sliders. Don’t miss Friday’s TGIF halfprice drinks and make sure to try a Manhattan or martini, served in an individual iced mini-carafe. While at BKYC, explore Sarasota’s attractions. Two miles west of the club is the luxury shopping district at St. Armand’s Circle. Downtown Sarasota is about two miles in the opposite direction, across the Ringling Bridge. Just a cab ride away is the John and Mable Ringling Museum, possibly the Ringling’s greatest legacy to the area, with a world-class art collection and of course, the circus exhibit.

All new Isles Yacht Club

Isles Yacht Club (IYC), in Punta Gorda, has a warm and welcoming hospitality committee which delivers homemade cookies to visiting FCYC member boats, along with the offer of a free ride to the grocery or liquor store. Member Ray Starsman, FCYC’s 2012 Vice Commodore, notes that the IYC’s heated swimming pool, fitness center and tennis courts help mitigate the caloric effects of the Club’s renowned clam chowder. Arguably the best in Florida, it’s on the menu in their fine dining room or casual Commodore’s Grille in their post-Hurricane Charley state-of-the-art clubhouse.

Not far from IYC you can visit Fishermen’s Village, a waterfront mall and full-service, 97-slip yacht basin with themed boutiques, day spa and salon, casual dining and entertainment. If you haven’t had enough boating, catch a sightseeing or sunset cruise departing from the village docks. Nearby, historic Punta Gorda exemplifies a quaint waterside Florida town, with restored period homes. While there, make sure to visit the many boutiques and restaurants. On the third Thursday of each month, gallery walks are the evening’s entertainment, with art exhibits, live music and fine food.

Future issues of Southern Boating will feature additional FCYC member clubs. Wherever you decide to dock, make sure to visit the individual club websites to check monthly calendars for special events and features. Happy club-hopping!

Cruising to the Dry Tortugas

By Buddy Ward

0810 hours. I sipped my morning coffee and looked around for traffic. At the starboard bridge wing control, I slowly maneuvered away from the dock, turned around and eased out of Key West Bight Marina as a gentle easterly breeze lifted the remnants of the previous night’s Mallory Square revelries and delivered them through my port side window. Windows closed, and all clear of the land, I returned to the captain’s chair, scanned my instrumentation and surroundings, turned southwest and throttled up to begin threading my way through the parade of boats in the harbor.

The spray danced off the gleaming white hulls as I moved the throttles forward and the big ocean-going catamaran lifted up and charged into a following sea. The sweet sea breeze steadily increased as we neared 25 knots, our regular cruising speed. We were clear and away and bound for the Dry Tortugas. The bridge from which I operated the vessel looked like it was straight out of Star Trek. It was modern, immaculate and well-equipped. I finished my coffee, set the autopilot and settled into the two-hour passage to the “Gateway to the Gulf” and some of the most pristine beaches it has ever been my privilege to experience.

Dry Tortugas National Park encompasses about 64,000 acres some 70 miles west of Key West. There are seven islands now. Garden Key, one of the largest, has a fort built upon it that is now owned and maintained by the National Park Service. The great brick fortification, consisting of about 16 million bricks, and built in the mid-1800s, played a significant role in the War Between the States was used as a prison for a time, and still stands guard at the entrance to the Gulf of Mexico.

Interestingly, Fort Jefferson’s most famous prisoner was Dr. Samuel Alexander Mudd, the very Dr. Mudd who is so closely associated with the assassination of President Abraham Lincoln. Mudd graduated Baltimore Medical College (now known as the University of Maryland) in 1856. Mudd first met the Presidential-assassin, John Wilkes Booth, a year prior to the shooting, during a discussion regarding the sale of a horse. A month later, Mudd shared drinks with Booth and two others in Booth’s hotel room.

After the assassination, Booth had broken his leg and sought out Mudd for medical treatment, and stayed with Mudd until the next day. For his unknowingly aiding and abetting Booth, Mudd was eventually arrested for conspiracy and harboring Booth. A trial was held and after a string of testimonies, Mudd was convicted and sentenced to life imprisonment at Fort Jefferson. Throughout his imprisonment, Mudd’s wife had been petitioning President Andrew Johnson to have her husband released from prison. As it turned out, Mudd’s incarceration was short-lived due to his heroic action and leadership during the yellow fever epidemic on the island in 1867. Due to his efforts in helping the sick, Mudd was finally granted a pardon in 1869, signed by Andrew Johnson himself in front of Mudd’s wife. He was officially released the following March.

“Off to our starboard side, that circle of islands is called the Marquesas Keys …” The naturalist was on the microphone regaling 100 eager passengers with his local knowledge as the rest of the crew served breakfast and readied the snorkel gear. We were approaching the wreck site of the Nuestra Señora de Atocha—a Spanish treasure galleon—and one of Mel Fisher’s salvage boats was already working the area. The galleon, along with her sister ship, the Santa Margarita, was lost in a hurricane in 1622 and discovered after years of searching by Fisher’s crew. The hull of the Atocha and the “mother lode” of treasure was estimated to be worth over 500 million dollars. They are still finding treasure today in the quest for the 400 million dollars more in riches said to have been stored in the sterncastle of the ship when it was lost.

I turned off the autopilot and adjusted my course slightly to the north. We were nearing Half Moon Shoals and the show was just beginning. You have never lived until you have taken a 100-foot catamaran over a 15-foot shoal at 25 knots. The water there is as clear as an aquarium. The passengers lined the rail hoping for a glimpse of the beloved turtles. From my perch in the wheelhouse I could see they would not be disappointed.

Turtles are prolific here in the spring and summer months and are quite often on the surface. There are greens and loggerheads; once I even saw a rare leatherback. The turtles were joined on the trip by dolphins and sharks and rays. During some seasons, jellyfish—known as “moon jellies”— decorate the waters for as far as you can see providing a feast for the turtles. As quickly as the bottom appeared, it vanished. We had crossed the shoals and entered the deep waters of Rebecca Channel. We were now 14 miles from Fort Jefferson and the Dry Tortugas. One of the passengers visiting the wheelhouse asked how we were able to find it every day. I showed it to her on the radar and told her that she’d be able to see it about nine miles out.

From the surface of the sea the great brick walls of the fort began to rise. Above it, big black frigate birds circled, pointing the way. We climbed up onto the shallow water of the Dry Tortugas as we entered the National Park. Sea life was everywhere, as well as more types of birds than you can imagine, as this place is in the middle of the migratory routes between the mainland and Central and South America. I throttled back and transited the channel around the fort to prepare for docking. On the south side of the fort is a wellprotected anchorage with vessels of all types. Some go there as an intended destination, while others go because it’s a great rest stop on the way to Mexico and beyond.

There is no fuel on the island and, in fact, there are no stores, water, ice or services of any kind, so anyone who ventures here needs to be prepared. The park is also well outside of radio and cell phone range. The reward, however, is some of the most fantastic fishing, diving and scenery I have ever experienced. Approaching the dock, we had to wait just a minute as a sportfisherman cleared our space. The ferry takes precedence over private vessels but most people simply anchor up and dinghy onto the beach. Fifteen minutes later we were safely tied up, welcomed by the cacophony of gulls and sooty terns.

After the passengers disembarked, excitedly anticipating their day of touring the fort and swimming the pristine waters, I grabbed my fins and mask and walked the moat wall around to the north side of the fort. The light sea breeze filled my senses and made me feel alive. I entered the cool water that lay in stark contrast to the humid air. The noisy world of tourists and generators and birds vanished as I slipped below the surface. To the east lay the remnants of an old coal pier where the larger fish played. To the west, the beauty and wonder of the moat wall. A school of brightly-striped black, white and yellow sergeant major fish marched in formation in defense of the fort. I swam west, following the school past a large grouping of mangrove snapper. A pair of parrotfish in their hues of pink and green moved in and out of the coral in a coordinated dance. A petite damselfish caught my attention and I moved in for a closer look. The brave little fish, half-purple and half-yellow, charged out toward me in an attempt to defend her small rock. She was saved – I needed a breath. Traveling along the beautiful and delicate corals and fans I looked outward toward the soft white sand and the gently darkening shades of blue.

A boxfish left an isolated bump of brain coral and swam quickly toward the wall. He passed me quickly and frantically without a hint that he knew I was there. He was late and dove down a hole. For just a second, I was tempted to follow.

Two large, stately tarpon cruised effortlessly by on their way to the swim beach that lay ahead on the west side of the fort. My quiet isolation was about to end. Many of the tourists congregated at the swim beach to watch the show. A group of tarpon had corralled a school of small silvery baitfish locally known as “mohua” into the shallow waters. The small fish were wondrous. You could swim into the tightly packed cloud of them and never touch a one, so quickly and deftly did they glide just beyond reach. While they had no problem escaping humans, the tarpon were another matter. With complete abandon, the hundred pound-plus fish would charge out of the depths and crash into the tight concentration of silversides. People stood in awe taking pictures of five-foot-long fish swimming just inches from their legs.

I looked at my watch. There was just enough time for one last adventure. Just off the southwest corner of the fort in slightly deeper water lay the remains of a small old cannon. The old girl lay protected with large barracudas and giant goliath groupers standing guard. When I first found it, I tried to lift it out of the sand but it was impossibly buried. I started to tell someone about it, but changed my mind and decided to leave it be. So every day I would end my visit to this other world with a visit to my cannon. It took an extra effort for me to dive that deep and I could only linger for a second or two, but I needed to touch it. Holding her, I held onto the past and all the people who had passed this way. Moments from now I would return to the world. I would again be the captain with all the responsibilities and perks that come with the position. But just for that moment, I became one of many who touched that cannon on their passage through this place.

On the boat and dressed, refreshed in body and mind, the crew and I greeted the passengers back aboard, enjoying the excited chatter about their adventures. We said our goodbyes to the park rangers who live there. The crew cast off lines and we worked our way through the anchored boats. A group of bird-watchers shyly asked if it was possible to get close enough to Hospital Key to see the nesting grounds of the booby birds. I maneuvered the boat to within about 20 yards and slowed enough for the naturalist to answer their questions amid the sound of many cameras clicking away. A few minutes later it was time to go. The return trip was more subdued – some people read, some played cards, many slept. We were headed for home, leaving in our wake the beaches, the fort, the pristine waters and the setting sun of the Dry Tortugas, arriving in Key West just in time for everyone to celebrate the sunset.

Islamorada is a sparkling jewel in the string of

gems that comprise the Florida Keys.

By L.J. Wallace, Jr.

If you have never been to the Florida Keys, you are truly missing out on one of the most fascinating and beautiful places in the U.S. And nestled within the upper reaches of this string of delightful islands, you’ll find several that comprise Islamorada, “Village of Islands.” Islamorada has a reputation for being the “Sportfishing Capital of the World” and for two good reasons: it is said to have a larger fishing fleet per square mile than anywhere else in the world; and you can troll the deep waters offshore in the morning and be casting in the shallow flats of the ‘backcountry’ in the afternoon. But there’s so much more to this fishing paradise than just wetting a line, donning some scuba gear for a plunge down to the reef or paddling a kayak around the mangroves.

Islamorada stretches between Mile Markers (MM) 90 and 72 on storied State Highway A1A which terminates in Key West at MM- 0. It is comprised of six islands including Plantation Key, Windley Key, Upper Matecumbe Key, Lower Matecumbe Key and the offshore islands of Indian Key and Lignumvitae Key, all situated between the saltwater wilderness of Everglades National Park to the north, and North America’s only coral barrier reef and the deep blue waters of the Florida Straits to the south.

Around the turn of the 19th Century, the area was home to the pioneering Pinder family who lived aboard their schooner, Island Home. Around this time, Henry Flagler was building his railroad through the Keys and track had already been laid in the area. However, the train would only stop at named towns and so the Spanish translation for Island Home—Islamorada— was adopted. However, as Islamorada Chamber of Commerce Executive Director, Judy Hull explained, “Exactly how our village got its name is still a somewhat controversial subject. Some say it’s named after the Pinder’s boat, while others will tell you that the word Islamorada is Old Spanish for Purple Isles or Village of Islands.” At any rate, in 1908 the new Islamorada train station and Post Office opened for business.

As with much of the Florida Keys, it was a docile few decades until the Labor Day hurricane of 1935 ripped through the island chain. Packing winds exceeding 200 miles per hour, the storm created turbulent seas that sent a 17-foot storm surge directly across the Keys, killing hundreds of WWI veterans working on the railroad, as well as local residents. Two years later, after the railroad ties and other debris were removed, a Hurricane monument was erected at MM-81 in Islamorada.

Fast forward to 1997. After spending its entire history as an unincorporated portion of Monroe County, on December 31st of that year, the village was incorporated. Founded in the mid-1940’s, the 42- acre Plantation Yacht Harbor Resort on Islamorada had seen better days and doing something about it was item number one for the newly installed Village Council. Although controversial, the decision was made to purchase the property and build it into a public facility. This was the beginning of Founder’s Park and PYH Marina (MM-87 bayside). “The Gem and centerpiece of our village,” is the way Director of Parks and Recreation/Public Works, John Sutter, describes it.

Construction started soon after the land was acquired and the first order of business was to tear down all the old buildings except the restaurant which became Islamorada’s first government building. But since then, the property has become “built-out” as Sutter says. It began with the athletic facilities, then a beach, then an Olympicsized pool, tennis and basketball courts, dog park (in fact, for those of you who prefer to travel with your dog, the friendly and relaxed attitude on Islamorada means that many businesses, both lodgings and restaurants, are extremely dog-friendly), golf ball hitting area, skate park, fishing jetty, marina and most recently, an open-air amphitheater. “Yea, you could say it’s a big draw,” Sutter added, tongue-in-cheekily.

Saturday and Sunday, April 2-3, brings the 20th Annual Florida Keys Island Fest, billed as “Islamorada Chamber’s best event yet!” From 10AM-5PM both days, artists, musicians and much more  will transform the park into a fun-filled family destination. New to this year’s event is the All-American Road Vintage Cruisers Car Show, featuring pre-1975 cars, trucks, motorcycles and rat rods. In addition, an array of talented musicians will also take part, appealing to music lovers of all genres, from blues to reggae. “The Florida Keys have always been known as a mecca for the performing arts, and Island Fest is the best place to experience that first hand,” says Judy. “We’re really quite lucky to have so many gifted people sharing their talents with us.” Saturday’s culinary event features a tantalizing smoked-fish dip contest, and on Sunday, don’t miss the popular “Taste of the Islands,” a delicious competition showcasing the dishes of many local restaurants. And the ever-popular “IslaMarauder” Rum Punch Contest returns as well.

It’s refreshing to see the government spend taxpayer money on a project which, in the end, everyone agrees was money well spent. “It’s because of the cohesiveness of the Chamber, the government and the businesses of our village that it all came together so successfully,” states Judy. And indeed, the park provides not only a source of recreation for Islamorada residents, but it’s also becoming an economic engine of sorts. By offering so many facilities and activities not otherwise found in the Keys, people come from far and wide and while there, spend money in the local community.

Strolling around Islamorada and chatting with the folks you quickly learn that many of them have relocated or established a winter residence here from the north. This injection of Yankee blood is likely what has had a lot to do with the Renaissance that’s occurring in Islamorada. Judy related, “We believe we have the most diverse and best dining in all the Keys.” There’s Restaurant 88, which President George H.W. Bush has frequented, or Morada Bay and its monthly Full Moon Party. But it’s not all about dining when it comes to food. “There’s just so many places to find a tasty treat,” shared frequent visitor from Long Beach Island, New Jersey, Zach Kerzner. “The Islamorada bakery has the best scones anywhere.” Kerzner went on to sum up his feelings about the Village of Islands. “Islamorada is the hot spot of the Middle Keys, maybe all the Keys. There’s just something intangible about the place; it’s happening and classy.” Interestingly, research by the Chamber also indicates that a large percentage of visitors to Islamorada—particularly shorter-term and weekend—hail from southern Florida itself. Islamorada has also seen a surge as a “Destination Wedding” location.

As far as where to stay, you have a lot to choose from. If you’ve arrived by, or trailered your boat but want to keep it safe and convenient in a dry stack, there’s Snake Creek Marina (snakecreekmarinakeys.com),or for larger vessels, Plantation Yacht Harbor within Founders Park. For those flying in or arriving by car, it may be hard to decide just where to lay your head down. At the high end is what many consider to be the crown jewel of the Keys, the oceanfront Cheeca Lodge & Spa, complete with a golf course. Even if you don’t check in, it’s worth a visit to the elegant sportfishing-themed bar. If you’ve come by boat but want to spend your nights in a bed, not a bunk, then Islander Bayside Townhomes & Boatslips (islanderbayside.com) might be just the place for you with their magnificent views of the Gulf. Located on the southern tip of the islands you will find Bud N’ Mary’s Fishing Marina. Established in 1944 and home to over 40 legendary fishing captains and guides, it is the oldest and largest fishing fleet in the Florida Keys fishing industry. In addition to landside hotel accommodations at Bud N’ Mary’s, they have a pair of beautiful, custom-designed houseboats available for short- and longterm rental as well. If you arrive via a boat, dockage is available right next to them.

Islamorada has so much to offer and is so accessible, especially to those residing in the southeast, willing to make the drive, that it should be on everyone’s short-list of “must see” destinations. Islamorada Chamber of Commerce MM- 83.2; 305-664-4503; 800-FAB-KEYS; email: info@islamoradachamber.com; islamoradachamber.com

Story and Photos By Capt. Mike Holmes

A line of sportfishing boats at a concrete dock at Bridge Harbor.

Freeport  Texas has been my homeport for over 30 years. It hasn’t changed all that much in awhile, but for those who call it home or count themselves as frequent visitors, it doesn’t have to. As the largest port city on the Texas coast between Galveston and Corpus Christi, Freeport has more of an industrial base than most of its sister cities. From the petro-chemical plants to the offshore oil industry, the Bryan Mound Strategic Petroleum Reserve salt dome storage site to the shrimping industry, Freeport has long enjoyed a bustling economy.
Since Freeport is one of the few major port cities on the Texas coast not located on or near a major bay system, it is more closely linked to the open Gulf. The original point of Gulf access for shipping was the Brazos River outlet, and even before the War Between the States, cotton has been barged downstream from far inland to be loaded on ships at Velasco, as the area was known then. Since those early days, the original river outlet was cut off from the main stream because the port harbor⎯with a jettied channel leading into the Gulf and a new outlet canal⎯was cut through the beach to convey the river flow. Locals refer to these points as the “New” and “Old” Brazos river channels. The ICW crosses both streams and is protected from the current of the New River by a lock system maintained and operated by the Army Corps of Engineers.

The proximity to deep water has always made Freeport one of the Gulf’s more prominent ports for fishermen seeking both red snapper and blue water gladiators like marlin and tuna. The run to the 100-fathom curve is approximately 65nm from the Freeport farewell buoy, as opposed to nearly 100nm out of Galveston. Natural “rock” bottom formations and vessels sunk over the decades provide habitat for red snapper and grouper, and the many offshore oil rigs scattered from just off the beach to 200 miles offshore attract both bottom and surface dwelling species. It is as close to the Flower Gardens reef system from Freeport as from Galveston, which has led to several large dive boat operations locating there. “Head-boats,” or “party-boats” carrying large groups of fishermen (mostly seeking red snapper) were a big part of Freeport’s economy until recent changes in Federal fishing regulations, coupled with rising fuel prices, badly hurt the industry. But area marinas still hold a large fleet of sportfishing yachts, both private and for-hire, equipped for both billfish and smaller game fish like dolphin and wahoo. Fishermen with trailerable boats come from all over Texas to launch here, many staying much closer to land to target king mackerel and cobia, as well as other pelagic species.
Cruising mariners who pass through Freeport—as well as those seeking a more permanent berth for their vessel—will find more marina options than they did in the past. Where once Bridge Harbor Yacht Club on the ICW was the home of upscale boat owners⎯with its condos, pool, tennis courts, ship’s store, club and restaurant (while the few other marinas were more of a place to just park boats)—several new marinas and additions to existing ones that came largely after Hurricane Ike roared through the area in 2008, add both capacity and variety to Freeport’s boating scene.
The all-new Surfside Marina (surfside-marina.com) has both wet and dry slips and a full ships store. The Gulf Coast Marina (gulfcoastmarina.com) just on the east side of the tall Surfside Bridge, is a dry storage facility with a large forklift capable of handling the largest of outboard boats, and sells fuel and bait as well. There is also a waterfront restaurant on the property. Both of these businesses are on the south side of the ICW and require crossing via the Surfside Bridge.
Bridge Harbor (bhycfreeport.com) is still the elite marina and a popular stop for transient boats due to its close proximity to “the ditch” and the jetties. A full service marina, it has a repair yard and fuel dock as well as the amenities listed above, although the restaurant may not be in operation at this time.
Kirby Marina (kirbymarina.com) is located well up Oyster Creek, and though it has fewer amenities and is a longer run from the Gulf, some prefer its added protection from storms, along with the slightly more laid back atmosphere. In recent years this marina has almost doubled in size due to the addition of docks dedicated solely to large outboard and stern-drive powered boats hanging in heavy-duty lifts. Dos Amigos Boat Works (979-239-2940) is just down the creek from Kirby, and is a full-service yard offering everything from routine maintenance to custom repowering, fiberglass repair and aluminum tower work. Jim’s Services (979-233-0270), next door to Kirby’s, does bottom jobs and haul-outs for do-it-yourselfers, as well as repairs and is even the local TowBoatUS base.
Another option for boats and their owners is the new Freeport Municipal Marina (freeport.tx.us), located in the main harbor and behind the floodgate that protects shrimpboats and crewboats. Although there is no repair yard or fuel at this time, the new floating docks accommodate boats up to 60 feet, and there is also a dry stack building. Opened just in the last year, plans are for a ship’s store and other facilities, and this location has perhaps the best storm protection potential in the area.
What Freeport is NOT, is a raucous resort town in the strictest sense. There are good eateries and some nightspots along the beach and many canal subdivisions, but most people who live here or frequent the area prefer the quieter atmosphere.This is a mellower sort of boat town, in other words, not a bustling tourist town.

By Carol Bareuther

Yacht Haven Grande, one of the main marinas on St. Thomas, offers a welcoming glow at night.

The 31-square-mile Leeward Island of St. Thomas has much to offer. I’m sure the pirates⎯who arrived shortly after the Dutch West India Company planted its flag in 1657—as well as modern day sailors, sports fishermen and superyacht cruisers—would agree. Today, this U.S. Virgin Island boasts everything from fine-dining restaurants, duty-free shops and over a dozen white sand beaches, to full-service marinas and boat yards, provisioning and parts, crewed and bareboat charters, sports fishing and daysail excursions, as well as world-class fishing tournaments and internationally-recognized sailing regattas. Is it any wonder why, after cruising here from New Jersey in 1986, I’ve never left?
If you arrive by boat, Customs and Immigration is located in the island’s capital of Charlotte Amalie. This red-roofed town is full of Danish-era charm and is a central location if you’re interested in nightlife, upscale dining and shopping. It’s also less than a 10-minute ride from the Cyril E. King Airport where major carriers depart daily on direct flights to New York, Miami and Atlanta. You can dock on the waterfront (although there are no facilities there) but some alternatives are the 46-slip Island Global Yachting (IGY)-owned Yacht Haven Grande megayacht marina to the east of the harbor, or two miles westward at the 99-slip Crown Bay Marina.
Charlotte Amalie’s Main Street is famous for its duty-free shopping. Diamonds, gold jewelry, Rolex watches, locally-made Cruzan Rum and island art are sold in plush, air-conditioned stores. The sense of history here is awesome. Those retailers sit along the same brick-and-stone lined alleyways where tobacco, sugar and rum were offloaded from sailing ships centuries ago. Two blocks north of Main Street sits the second oldest synagogue in the Western hemisphere, Beracha Veshalom Vegmiluth Hasidim, a National Historic Landmark, the 1680-built Fort Christian which lies next to Vendor’s Plaza (think T-shirts and other souvenirs); and the stone towers of Bluebeard’s Castle and Blackbeard’s Castle rising up over town as two major attractions. You can find upscale shops outside of the hustle-and-bustle of town at the main cruiseship dock in Havensight, situated a mile from downtown. There are also many name-brand stores and waterfront restaurants next door at Yacht Haven Grande.

This property is the home base of the Virgin Islands Charteryacht League (VICL). Over 100 daysail, sport fishing, dive and term charter yachts belong to the VICL and collectively contribute to what the non-profit organization estimates to be some $80 million annually into the local economy. The VICL fleet includes power and sailing monohulls, multihulls and a handful of megayachts. This makes for a nice mix over the very catamaran-oriented British Virgin Islands’ (BVI) fleet.
The nearby BVIs are an integral part of a week-long charter from St. Thomas. However, many yachts do opt to stop at Great St. James Island off St. Thomas’ East End the first night. The placid anchorage there at Christmas Cove is only a two to three hour upwind run from Charlotte Amalie.
You can also charter a bareboat from Caribbean Yacht Owners Association (CYOA). Located in the quaint Frenchtown section of Charlotte Amalie, the nearly 20-vessel fleet includes everything from a 39-foot Beneteau to a 49-foot Fountaine Pajot cat, plus a couple of trawlers. Frenchtown is also home to the local commercial fishing fleet and the 18-foot-long pastel-painted open wooden boats lined up in a row harborside are very picturesque. The CYOA docks are adjacent to where private yachts can tie up as well. The late newscaster and avid cruiser, Walter Cronkite, would dock his 48-foot Sunward Wynte here in the winters. It’s an ideal spot to embark on a week-long charter to Puerto Rico’s offshore islands of Culebra and Vieques. These small, barely populated islands are a half day’s sail away and have excellent anchorages (no marinas), laidback bars and restaurants, and cool sights like a glowing phosphorescent bay.
But it’s the East End that’s the real nautical hub of St. Thomas. This is due in large part to line-of-sight proximity to the BVIs. The Virgin Islands Game Fishing Club (VIGFC) and St. Thomas Yacht Club (STYC) were founded out here in 1963 and 1964, respectively. Today, the VIGFC’s clubhouse in Red Hook, which sits right behind the Carey Chen-painted life-size replica of a blue marlin, is the place anglers meet weekly and for the Club’s four major annual tournaments. It’s also the sign-up spot for the USVI Open/Atlantic Blue Marlin Tournament (known locally as ‘The Boy Scout Tournament’) which takes place each year over the August full moon. Juno Beach, Florida angler Sam Jennings’ 59-foot Revenge won Best Boat this summer with 11 blue marlin released in four days of fishing off the North Drop, indicating that St. Thomas remains a hot spot for blue marlin.
The STYC on Cowpet Bay is a small club by stateside standards but with a lot of clout on the world’s competitive sailing stage. Not only has it produced Olympic, America’s Cup and top-ranked match race sailors, but the younger generation shows an equal proclivity for bringing home hardware from regattas around the world. STYC welcomes visiting sailors and it’s the home of the International Rolex Regatta as well as the Scotiabank International Optimist Regatta. In addition, STYC members host the annual Carlos Aguilar Match Race held each December in the Charlotte Amalie Harbor.
The East End settlement of Red Hook has grown into a nearly self-contained community. You’ll find banks, postal service, hardware, chandleries, bars and restaurants, as well as excellent provisioning at the Marina Market, located across from the Ferry Dock and the American Yacht Harbor. The charter sports fishing fleet, dive operators and daysail yachts can be found here as well. Come for a charter, stay at the Ritz-Carlton, rent a villa or condo, or dock at the 105-slip IGY American Yacht Harbor Marina.
You’re bound to love it here as much as I do. After all, St. Thomas has all the allure of an exotic tropical destination but with the safety, security and familiarity of the U.S. flag.

By Nancy Birnbaum

Marina at Marigot Bay Photo

Every winter, the islands of the Caribbean welcome visitors from the cooler climates and extend their warm embrace to those seeking to relax and renew. New resorts abound and some of the familiar properties boast new additions. For those visiting by boat, there’s plenty to take in. Here are just a few…

Spotlight-St. Maarten
The St. Maarten Marine Trades Association (SMMTA) has launched Spotlight-St. Maarten, a month long event focusing on education, recreation and discounts for tourists, locals and those visiting by yacht. The event kicks off with live entertainment and fireworks on St. Maarten’s Day, Friday, November 11th (11/11/11!), and will include leisure events, sporting activities and training seminars.The festivities run through Sunday, December 18th, when the final weekend will be celebrated with private VIP events, as well as free concerts open to everyone. The Spotlight-St. Maarten calendar is available on the event’s website (smmta.com), where you will also find a complete list of discounts that will be offered throughout the event, including deals at marinas, chandleries, service centers, hotels, restaurants, bars, shops and more.
Sporting activities during the month will include a sailing regatta, fishing tournament, tennis tournament, golf tournament and paddleboard races. Events will take place mostly on St. Maarten, but the SMMTA will also be spotlighting French St. Martin and the surrounding islands of St. Barts, Anguilla and Saba as the beauty and diversity of these destinations is a major part of what makes St. Maarten a truly unique yachting destination.

IGY marinas
With yachting destinations spanning the Americas, IGY (Island Global Yachting) has redefined the luxury marina experience. Founded in 2005, IGY focuses on acquiring, managing and servicing luxury-yacht marinas and lifestyle destinations. Headquartered in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, IGY also has offices in New York, New York and St. Thomas, USVI. IGY marinas operate under the signature Yacht Haven Grande collection and the IGY series brands, and IGY’s network of properties is setting new standards for service and quality in nautical tourism throughout the world. The company now offers an unprecedented collection of 12 marinas in the Caribbean, Pacific and the Americas, all catering to a variety of vessel types including sportfishers, cruisers, sailing and motor yachts, as well as being exclusive home ports for some of the world’s largest megayachts. According to Cuthbert Didier, Director of Yachting (St. Lucia), “The goal is to develop a national policy for the yachting sector in the country while strategically fostering its growth. To do this, the relevant legislation and regulations must be put in place.” (Read about recent changes affecting visiting yachts in our Caribbean Currents column on page 26.) igymarinas.com

Marigot Bay, St. Lucia
New for this winter, The Marina at Marigot Bay offers a fully serviced deep-draft berth at 21 feet deep with 125-amp power, water, CATV, WiFi and on-berth fueling. The berth is large enough for yachts to a maximum size of 170 feet. In addition, named after the Jimmy Buffet song, “It’s 5 O’Clock Somewhere” a new Sport Bar and Café in the Marina Village has opened. Finally, clearance charges have been reduced for 2012, combined with a package of other measures approved by government to simplify yacht clearance and transit. marigotbaymarina.com

Dominican Republic
Gianfranco Fini & Piero Giacosa—two Italian gentlemen with roots as designers and visionaries—had a dream they took half way around the world to the island of Hispaniola in the Caribbean and a country called the Dominican Republic. There they met with the owners of the fabulous Casa de Campo resort.
Located at Lat.18° 23.9’N. / Lon. 68° 54.2′W, their amazing dream became a reality. Where the Chavon River meets the Caribbean Sea at the water’s edge of a 7,000 acre resort, there is now a chic new community and ‘Paradise Found’ for sailors and power cruisers alike, a true tropical gem on the southeastern coast of the Dominican Republic. Its unique collection of facilities and impeccable service by a warm Dominican staff are treasured by people of all ages who come from around the world.
Inspired by the old seaside villages of the Mediterranean but equipped with all the most modern services, Casa de Campo Marina boasts colorful residential architecture. There are 105 units including villas and townhouse-type apartments, many with a private pier. In the Calle Barlovento, beside the residential apartments, there are numerous shops to satisfy any need, including the lovely Piazza Portofino with its many choices in restaurants, pizzerias, ice cream shops and cafés. Piazza Portofino is also the place to experience the island nightlife and is the natural backdrop for shows, sports and cultural events.
The Yacht Club at the center of the Marina (though it is a private club) is an architectural gem with striking lounges, a stunning bar, winding staircase, and open upper and lower ocean view terraces. The Yacht Club has hundreds of boats for its sailing school, along with international teachers from Costa Smeralda Yacht Club in Italy. casadecampo.com.do/marina-casa-de-campo

Pusser’s Marina Cay
If positive reviews by enthusiastic travelers aren’t enough to sway you, consider that there are few places like Marina Cay. Charles Tobias, owner of Pusser’s, purchased Marina Cay, then set about building a very small and intimate resort, gift shop and another Pusser’s Restaurant on this charming, eight-acre island. The flower-covered island is ringed by a soft, white sand beach, all nestled in a sheltered, emerald green lagoon whose shallow waters are always calm and warm. It is the ideal place to enjoy the colorful sea life that inhabits the coral reef and the lagoon. Those looking for a quiet, land-based vacation will find Pusser’s villas and hotel rooms very accommodating. TripAdvisor’s reviews read like a best seller: “The view was to die for”… “Beautiful seclusion, for as long as you can take that!”… “Our own private island paradise that doesn’t break the bank.” And last but not least, “The most amazing little piece of heaven.”
For cruisers visiting Marina Cay, there are several mooring buoys available, so stop in at Pusser’s for lunch or dinner. There’s an extensive menu which includes seafood and Caribbean specialties, as well as familiar North American fare. You may also top off your fresh water tank and ice box at the marina. pussers.com

St. Kitts
There’s news of a new development currently under construction in Little Salt Pond, Christophe Harbour in St. Kitts. Work on the 300-acre harbor began in January 2010, excavating the basin to a 20-foot depth. When dredging is completed, a channel will be opened to Ballast Bay. The developers hope to then break ground on the bulkhead and docks by the end of this year. Plans include dockage for megayachts up to 250 feet as well as shops, cafés and homes.

Jamaica
The Errol Flynn Marina, host to the Port Antonio Marlin Tournament, is located on the northeast corner of the Caribbean Island of Jamaica. It was made famous by movie star Errol Flynn who bought this private island, built his beautiful island hut and invited guests from his boat or seaplane that he moored in the harbor. But he lost the island in one night of gambling!
Anglers from all over the world strive to catch the biggest marlin at Jamaica’s thrilling Port Antonio Blue Marlin Tournament since marlin which prowl the areas waters can grow up to an impressive and rather daunting 16 feet in length. Guests arriving via boat have access to services such as water, electricity, 24-hour security, stern-to dockage, cable TV hook-up, Internet access, pump out at each berth, showers/laundry and a swimming pool. The marina can accommodate vessels up to 350 feet (106 m) and a maximum draught of 24 feet (9.1 m), and the shipyard has a 100-ton Travelift. There’s even a helicopter pad for those with big boat toys. Coordinates are Lat. 18°10.7′N / Lon. 76°27.3’W. errolflynnmarina.com

Discover the last remnants of Old Florida in
the cruiser-friendly waters on the West Coast

By Beth Adams-Smith

Cruising into Gasparilla Marina, on the mainland in Placida; the region’s largest full-service facility and action-central for sport fishing.

As a respite from the condo canyons lining most of Florida’s West Coast, there is a stretch of open air where rampant development has yielded to miles of sugar white sand picketed by palms and intermittent stands of Australian pines. A bit of what we imagine as ‘Old Florida’ remains on the barrier islands near the mouth of Charlotte Harbor.
For decades the condos spread north from Ft. Myers and south from Tampa and Sarasota, but fortunately they didn’t quite meet. Centered on Gasparilla Island’s Boca Grande village, this laid-back, lightly developed triangle is perfect for a week’s cruise. From the Gulf the Boca Grande Channel—one of the deepest natural inlets in the state—cuts across the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GICW) between Cayo Costa Island to the south and Gasparilla Island to the north and straight ahead lies 20-mile long Charlotte Harbor.
Take a sharp turn north along the mangrove studded side of Gasparilla Island and follow the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway to Boca Grande Bayou where you’ll find two small, near-town marinas: Boca Grande Marina and the Gasparilla Inn Marina. Bikes and golf carts rule on this island so if you don’t bring along a fold-up you can rent one to start exploring this charmingly white-washed rendition of Old Florida.
Today’s well-heeled Boca Grande owes its existence to phosphate and tarpon. Spurred on by the need  for a better way to deliver phosphate rock  from the banks of the Peace River  to the schooners  arriving  in Port Boca Grande,  a railroad was constructed  in 1907. For 50 years it delivered phosphate—loading 200-300 ships annually—to a state of the art pier on the island’s southern end. But the train also delivered adventurers and sportsmen.

Attracted by the discovery of world-class tarpon fishing, wealthy northerners (J.P. Morgan, Henry DuPont and resort and railroad baron, Henry Plant, to name a few) flocked to the island. Some made camp in the Gasparilla Inn which was built in 1911 and remains one of the top-rated resorts on the West Coast. Many of these gilt-edged names brought their families and built winter homes; several generations later those families are still here. The original homes and bungalows have been carefully preserved and new construction is discreet. “The Gasparilla Act,” a 1980 Florida law, clamped down on development, specifying building height as well as population density.
As the “Tarpon Capital of the World,” fishing continues to be one of the island’s biggest draws with over 70 charter captains belonging to the Boca Grande Fishing Guides Association. According to Cappy Joiner, long-time President of the BGFGA, the World’s Richest Tarpon Tournament will return in May 2012 with prizes totaling nearly $100,000. The BGFGA has long been a champion of sustainable catch-and-release, returning hooked tarpon to the Gulf unharmed.
When the Gasparilla Island causeway bridge to the mainland was built in 1958, it killed the railroad which is now part of Florida’s growing network of Rails-to-Trails bike and golf cart paths. Today, the old in-town train depot hosts the Loose Caboose, a fun, kid-friendly restaurant with an expansive dining patio. It’s surrounded by the two-square-block village populated with chic shops like Vera Bradley and Lilly Pulitzer and a half dozen eateries along with two fishing outfitters. There’s even the well-supplied Hudson’s Grocery, complete with a pink 1930s gas pump out front.
On the National Register of Historic Places, Whidden’s Marina and Maritime Museum is a lone vestige of the real, un-sanitized Old Florida.  Founded by Sam Whidden in 1926 as a marina/dance hall/restaurant, it’s still run by the Whidden family and sells gas, live bait and tackle, and plays host to a dozen charter captains. Decades of “treasures” surround the ramshackle building and inside, a small room displays a quirky jumble of artifacts from Boca Grande’s big game fishing history. Plus, the kids will get a real charge from the goats and pigs penned at the landside entrance.
For a half-day outing, try biking south to the Boca Grande Lighthouse, a working light and museum surrounded by gorgeous beaches.  Constructed in 1890 overlooking Boca Grande Pass, it’s now the centerpiece of the Gasparilla Island State Recreation Area. On the way, stop off at South Beach Bar & Grille, the only feet-in-the-sand restaurant on the island. Back in town check out the extraordinary amenities at the Community Center—once the island’s school—as well as the Art Alliance, Boca Grande Historical Society & Museum, and Royal Palm Players if you’re in the mood for some theater.
Once you’ve exhausted the possibilities on Gasparilla Island and Boca Grande, expand your exploration of the region. Just south of Boca Grande Pass is seven mile long Cayo Costa Island. Once home to a fishing ranch and a Navy quarantine station it’s now a Florida State Park with miles of pristine beaches for swimming, surf casting or beachcombing. You’ll find rental cabins, a ferry to Bokeelia Island, some concessions and slips for yachts up to 50 feet (6-foot draft), or anchor out in Pelican Bay and dinghy in. A tram crosses the 600-yard island or you can rent bikes to explore the six miles of hiking/biking trails. Book a reservation with Tropic Star of Pine Island (also a ferry company), where you can also rent kayaks.
A bit further south in Pine Island Sound, tucked between Cayo Costa and private Useppa Island, Cabbage Key is a 100-acre, car-free idyllic step back in time. Some say the unpretentious Cabbage Key Inn, cottages and famous 1930s-era restaurant—where their walls are papered with dollar bills—was the muse for Jimmy Buffet’s song ‘Cheeseburger in Paradise,’ but it’s the stone crabs that are the real stars. Old screened porches (shaded by Royal Poincianas, Cuban laurels and banyans) look out across 25 slips that can accommodate yachts up to 100 feet. The complex, built by the son of novelist and playwright Mary Roberts Rinehart, sits 38 feet above MLLW on an ancient Calusa Indian mound, the highest point along the coast. The barrier islands’ last remaining wooden water tower tops out at 60 feet, promising panoramic views for all who make the climb. The beauty of Cabbage Key is that there’s not much else to do—except watch the lumbering Gopher Tortoises and pods of dolphins… and to eat.
Exploring Charlotte Harbor, one of the least heralded cruising grounds on the Gulf Coast, could be a week’s cruise in and of itself. For a short foray, head up the southern shore to enormous Burnt Store Marina which offers an inviting set of resort-style amenities: a heated pool, tennis courts, a golf course and a fitness center. Hike the nearby trails or fish with a member of the Burnt Store Flats Fishing Guides Association.  Or push on to another piece of historic Florida and visit quaint, eclectic Punta Gorda at the mouth of the Peace River, now totally recovered from the devastation of Hurricane Charley in 2004. Dock right downtown at the state-of-the-art Laishley Park Municipal Marina and mooring field, or less than a mile away at Fisherman’s Village. It’s a colorful, funky complex sporting 36 shops, 6 eateries, Center Stage entertainment venue, rental villas and a marina with a heated pool, clay tennis courts and a large barbecue area. The two-and-a-half mile Harborwalk winds through three parks and both marinas. Ask about the village’s innovative bicycle program, offering free use of bikes from several locations around town. Kids love running through the interactive fountain and adults swoon over the eclectic restaurant and gallery scene.
What little is left of Old Florida has been preserved on these islands and in Charlotte Harbor.  But when you look at the old photographs, read personal accounts at the Boca Grande Historical Society or thumb through Mary Kaye Steven’s recent “Lee County Islands”—or listen to Cappy Joiner reminiscing about his boyhood years on Gasparilla Island—reality seeps into our “cleaned-up” vision of Old Florida. And with that, we resent (just a little less) the compromises wrought by encroaching civilization…and air conditioning.