Marvelous Marco

This Gulf Coast island’s Venetian-style canals make it easy to access and explore its many onshore attractions.

Story and Photos by Marty Richardson

Cruisers navigating Florida’s Gulf Coast have long considered Marco Island – the largest of the Ten Thousand Islands – a convenient stopover on the southward trek to the Florida Keys. But Marco is a fun destination in its own right.

The Calusa Indians were the island’s earliest inhabitants, dating back thousands of years; followed by Spanish explorers and the Seminole Indians in the 1700s. Fishermen and farmers established a permanent settlement on Marco in the late 1800s, but modern development did not really take off here until the 1960s, when the Deltona Corporation created a community crisscrossed with natural and manmade canals – more than 100 miles of them. They make the town very accessible to visiting cruisers with tenders on deck or in tow.
Entering Capri Pass (do not take Big Marco Pass), you will likely be treated to the sight of dolphins playing in your wake. But keep a sharp eye on the marks, as the channel shoals and splits in the middle – Isles of Capri to the north, and Marco River to the east.
Marco Island features numerous marinas and picturesque anchorages. One of our favorite anchorages is Factory Bay, excellent in all but northeast winds; keep well away from its very shallow center.
Smokehouse Bay, another popular spot to drop the hook, is protected in all winds; turn south from Marco River just past R12 and pass through Collier Bay, watching for shoals. The center of Smokehouse is shallowest, so pay attention to the marks. This bay is convenient for services every sailor needs, including shops, restaurants, and West Marine. Winn Dixie Supermarket and Liquors is especially cruiser-friendly, with its dedicated dinghy dock. Just proceed through the low bridge under Collier Boulevard and turn left at Marco Lutheran Church.
Further up this canal is Veteran’s Community Park; if Marco is in your cruising plans next winter, dock your dinghy along the seawall here for the Marco Island Farmer’s Market. Held each Wednesday from early November through April and featuring nearly 100 vendors, the market has everything from fresh Florida vegetables and fruits to specialty foods and woven straw goods. Look for wonderful Honeybell oranges (only in January), as well as Plant City strawberries during the winter months.
Smokehouse Bay is home to Marco’s newest yacht basin, the Esplanade Marina. Dock master Bill Ermatinger will direct you to one of the 15 transient slips, accommodating boats up to 70 feet in length with six feet in depth alongside at low tide. Reservations are recommended. The marina fronts the Esplanade complex, which includes fine dining establishments Guy Harvey’s Island Grill, Tara Steak and Lobster House and the popular CJ’s on the Bay, with its outdoor cocktail lounge for a nightcap under the stars. Next morning, catch a latte at Starbuck’s or stop for a Stone Cold Creamery treat.
On Factory Bay is the Marco River Marina and the Marina at Factory Bay. Marco River offers fuel, free pump-out and boat repairs. Publix Grocery is walking distance (long but do-able) from each of these marinas, as is one of our favorite restaurants, Café de Marco. Farther up the Marco River, just before the 55-foot SS Jolley Bridge, is Marco Island Marina.
Dock-n-dine options are plentiful on Marco. You’ll find small boat docking for lunch or dinner at Snook Inn, at the entrance to Factory Bay. A favorite local watering hole for over 30 years, Snook Inn features a large open-air tiki bar. If you are looking for a special night out, try a slight detour up the north fork of Capri Pass to Isles of Capri, where you can enjoy fine waterfront dining at the Blue Heron. Hosts Andy Alexander and her husband, John Rogers, recently installed four new docks complete with electricity—one of which can accommodate a boat up to 70 feet—which are available to diners for a free overnight stay! Call in advance, as slips go fast. This channel is shallow at extreme low tide, so time your travels accordingly.
On the far east corner of Marco Island is the historic fishing village of Goodland, a scenic stop that can be reached by traveling up the Marco River and under the Jolley bridge. Something of an artists’ hangout, it is also home to numerous sportfishing charter operations. This area is shallow at low tide, so timing is critical; in spots, the marks look out of place, but follow them anyway, as they are accurate. Marinas in Goodland include Walker’s Coon Key Marina and Calusa Island Marina.
In addition to Marco’s civilized pastimes, be sure to check out the area’s abundant natural ones. Birding, back-country fishing and kayaking are all highly popular here, thanks to Marco’s proximity to the rest of the Ten Thousand Islands and to the Everglades. To get to the Glades by boat, you can sneak out the back way past Goodland, another 55-foot bridge, and through Coon Key Pass. Just note that at Coon Key Light you will find water depths as little as four feet at low tide; boats needing up to five feet can safely transit if they wait for higher tide.