Old and New

Longtime friends and fresh experiences are among

the reasons why cruisers return to this Out Island.

By Stevie Connett

We have cruised to Cat Island almost every year for longer than anyone has a right to know, and every year we revel in the unspoiled beaches, the shelling, snorkeling, creek exploration, and the car rides on land. There is magic in spending time with old friends there, and in finding something new.

If you come from the south in settled weather, the reef harbor in Port Howe is a beautiful destination. The range markers for the break in the reef are hard to see, but in good light the channel is obvious, and you can see well enough to run east to the anchorage. These days there are a couple of resident boats on moorings. Walk ashore, visit the Deveaux Mansion and meet the citizens.
In quiet weather you should go around to Winding Bay, the uninhabited bay east of Port Howe. The snorkeling in the area is excellent, and the sportfishing along the edge of the ocean and off Columbus Point is some of the best in the Bahamas.
Best not to stop on the south coast west of Port Howe until you reach Hawk’s Nest. The Hawk’s Nest Marina (hawks-nest.com) is a full-service marina and hurricane hole. The entrance looks forbidding and has a lot of current, so call the marina for instructions and slip assignment before entering. The charts show that you also can anchor in the creek, but the current and the hard bottom make it difficult. Our advice is to pay the dockage and stay at the marina. It is very well managed, and you will have a good time at the club, which serves the freshest fish.
Cat Island’s Bight is one of our favorite places to anchor in the Bahamas. The holding is excellent almost everywhere. The white sand beach runs almost uninterrupted, so landing is easy, and walking is wonderful.
A perfect tour of the Bight would start in the anchorage north of Hawk’s Nest, then move to the beach off Old Bight for a walk ashore and a dinghy trip into Joe Sound Creek. I usually get diesel and a haircut at Favor’s Service Center, and we wash our laundry and get a meal ashore at Pilot Harbour, which also has groceries, gas, and water.
New Bight is the hub of the island with a BTC office, Administration office, police station, and regatta site. Lunch at the Blue Bird Cafe is a treat as the Dorsett sisters serve delicious food with down-home charm and hospitality. Then purchase a couple of bottles of water and head up to the Hermitage, which at 206 feet above sea level is billed as the highest point in the Bahamas. When you are back down the hill, you can walk to Olive King’s, just north of the police station for a loaf of fresh bread. New Bight Service Station, a little farther north up the road, has gas, mechanical supplies, groceries, and rental cars.
We strongly recommend a “land cruise”. There are fascinating ruins, hardwood coppices, beautiful walks, and good places to eat along the way. Try to purchase a copy of Jackie Campaigne’s The Cat Island Guide to help you plan the trip.
Just north of Bonefish Point is Fernandez Bay. Tony and Pam Armbrister’s Fernandez Bay Village resort (fernandezbayvillage.com) does not have services for yachts, but it is a perfect place to treat yourself to cocktail hour and supper in the loveliest hotel on the island. Mark Keasler is the resident bonefish and eco-tour guide and has a deep knowledge of the local land and sea environments.
In easterly winds you can anchor anywhere along the coast north of Fernandez Bay, but we usually sail right for the anchorage outside Bennett’s Harbour in the Northern Bight, which runs from Orange Creek Point in the north to Alligator Point in the south. Plan to spend a few hours shelling and swimming off the beaches between Pigeon Creek and Bennett’s Harbour.
There aren’t many supplies in Bennett’s, though you can get gas. You want to eat at least one meal at Sammy T’s Beach Resort. If you ask nicely in the afternoon, you might be able to order stew fish for breakfast the next morning. Eat the stew fish with lime and pepper and Johnny cake and you will want to sell your boat and build a house in Bennett’s Harbour.
If you like to walk ask for the north shore road and walk the mile and a half to the ocean side. A couple of small cays break the swell, and the beach is spectacular. Glass balls are now scarce, but you might come away with a sailor’s heart or a hamburger (uniquely shaped seeds that wash up on ocean beaches).
Farther north you can anchor off Orange Creek, which has a laundry, groceries, fuel, and propane. If your visit falls during May 25-30 this year, you can catch the Rake and Scrape festival in Arthur’s Town, a vibrant celebration of traditional Bahamian music. The event is run by Pamela Poitier and people come from all over the islands to hear their favorite bands, eat Cat Island food, and stock up on bush medicine.
The cruiser’s challenge on Cat Island is to maintain the natural island pace while trying do everything and meeting all the people. The only way to solve that problem is to stay longer or make sure you go back every year.