Gems of the Inner Banks

These spots are the antidote for Albemarle anxiety

If you draw less than five feet, consider a stop at Cypress Cove just opposite Columbia, three miles south of Albemarle Sound on the Scuppernong River.

On a north or south migration, crossing the broad, shallow, unpredictable Albemarle Sound has always been cause for angst—will the wind pick up creating those short, steep unpleasant waves? Despite its reputation, more often than not, it’s relatively pleasant. Still, for us, and for most of our cruising friends, the Albemarle is viewed as a challenge to be endured; one to be accomplished as quickly as possible—head down, eyes forward. But once you explore its upper reaches, the Sound takes on a more friendly aura. In fact, in settled weather, the Sound begs for a few extra days and delivers a diverse set of experiences in return: Artsy Columbia, plush Albemarle Plantation, and historic Edenton—North Carolina’s Colonial Capital —plus some useful, yummy stops in between.

COLUMBIA

Sweet and Surprising
A mile and a half up the Scuppernong River, side-tie at the Town Dock at the foot of Main Street to stroll revitalized Columbia. From the creative to the environmental, there’s much to do. The modest downtown with its 13 National Historic Register dwellings and four public buildings harbors arts of all stripes orbiting Pocosin Arts. This hotbed of creative endeavors includes the Columbia Theater Cultural Resources Center, which focuses on environmental and cultural history, and the Poquoson Arts Folk School, which preserves and teaches the area’s traditions. Private galleries showing local artists checker the main street along with several restaurants, unique local shops, and the country’s oldest Ben Franklin Five & Ten.

From the Town Dock and its recently minted lovely little yellow bathhouse, a walkway leads under the Route 64 Bridge to the contemporary W.B. Jones Center for the Sounds, which houses the Visitors’ Center and Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge’s Interpretive Center. High-backed Carolina rockers line the veranda overlooking the river—the perfect spot for reviewing the piles of maps and brochures as you decide what to do first. Kayak the Scuppernong River Trail, part of the Albemarle Region Canoe and Small Boat Trails System? Explore the Interpretive Boardwalk along the river? Sign up for a Wildlife Viewing tour? The Refuge’s 110,000 acres support 300 species.
If you need fuel, boatyard services, or a well-equipped ships’ store, Cypress Cove Marina is a short hop off the Albemarle on the way to Columbia. A stand of cypress trees backed by a large brown-shingled house mark the rip/rapped channel that leads to the marina’s protected basin. A volleyball court, horseshoe pits, playground, multiple picnic areas, brightly colored power pedestals, and a private bar add to the fun.

ALBEMARLE PLANTATION

A Luxurious Respite
Almost directly north across the Sound, on 900-foot wide Yeopin Creek, Albemarle Plantation’s elegant houses line the golf course and surround the marina and beautifully maintained country club facilities. Four wide stationary docks, sturdy enough for golf carts, anchor more than 200 slips with river views of pristine shore interspersed with an occasional Tidewater colonial. A wide, winding, wooden boardwalk leads past Cypress tree stumps and herons to the blue lighthouse office, ships store and boaters’ lounge. Borrow bicycles or golf carts to meander the pretty paths to the tennis courts or water-front pool and fitness center. Dine at the Sound Golf Links restaurant—inside or on the deck looking out across the Dan Maples 18-hole golf course to the river. The dock master can arrange a tee time or a rental car should you wish to drive the eight miles to historic Hertford where services abound.
Looking for a more down-home Carolina experience? Off the southeast shore of Bachelor Bay—where watermen hauling their catch mingle with pleasure boat traffic—Mackey’s Marina and boatyard nestles in Kendrick’s Creek on the site of an old ferry landing. Shaded by cypress trees and live oaks, water lilies and wildflowers edge the docks. But the food is the real magnet here. Mackey’s Crab Bar & Grill features a raw bar, steamed shrimp, clams and oysters by the pound, oysters on the half-shell and, of course, blue crabs. At the adjacent Crab Ranch you can buy ‘em by the half or full bushel right off “The Big Mack” crab boat.

EDENTON

The Albemarle’s Western Anchor
In 1722, Edenton became the colonial capital of North Carolina; hundreds of visiting ships fed the burgeoning plantation economy bringing goods and culture from Europe to the confluence of the Albemarle Sound and Pembroke Creek. Today, 25 handsomely restored 18th and 19th Century homes and public buildings are reminders of those glory days; seven are of national significance, including the three-story Barker-Moore House museum that features two inviting covered porches overlooking the town marina. For a sure-fire cure for boat-weary legs, roam the historic district on your own or with a docent from the Visitors’ Cente, or take the guided Trolley Tour. The restorations are impressive—especially the spectacular Jacobean Cupola House and County Courthouse—the Civil War markers occasionally surprising, and the rich history of this important Carolina town quite fascinating.
The town marina is set in lovely Colonial Park at the foot of Broad Street, which is the central artery of this vibrant village. Protected from the sometimes choppy Albemarle by a new breakwater, the nine transient slips and side-tie docks offer glorious views out to the bay and inland to the 1886 Roanoke River Lighthouse awaiting for a state-financed restoration. Service-oriented dockhands will help with most needs—including rides to the markets. They even rent canoes and kayaks if you are inclined to adventure further up the Pembroke or across to the John’s Island Campgrounds.
Broad Street and its coterie of leafy side lanes promise one of-a-kind shops, galleries exhibiting local artists, the Chowan Arts Council, a handful of restaurants offering contemporary spins on regional cuisine, and lots of historical monuments. Walk further east to the Cotton Mill Village & Boardwalk for some more locally-sourced shopping. Stop at the Edenton Coffee House for live music on week-ends or check the Taylor Theater for first-run films.
For longer stays, or quieter venues, Edenton offers two other docking options: The large, venerable Edenton Marina, further up Pembroke Creek, is tucked into a boot-shaped basin that is in the process of being surrounded by Pembroke Pointe, a new community of townhouses, single-family homes and the Ports O’ Call Village, Inn and Conference Center. Up the street, Bayside Marina offers fishing charters, bait and tackle and a mile west, the 63-acre National Fish Hatchery features an aquarium, exhibits, and a boardwalk that wanders through 25 acres of ponds. At the mouth of the Chowan River, the region’s newest facility, upscale Wharf Landing, is nearly complete. Fifteen four-story cream-colored condo buildings overlook an “L-shaped” basin lined with 100 slips. A long boardwalk leads from a large T-head right on the river to The Oyster Bar & Grill, a pleasant riverside pool, small clubhouse and fitness center.
The off-the-beaten-path western end of Albemarle Sound certainly warrants a three-day detour—and if schedules permit—a week would not be too much. And if there’s more time available, think about a scenic detour up the coffee-colored Chowan River, rich with the tannins from cypress and tupelo-gum leaves. Navigable for 30 miles to Winton, it promises anglers catfish and largemouth bass and nature-lovers abundant wildlife.
Ed. Note: Beth Adams-Smith is editor of Guide to Mid-Atlantic Marinas.