Living Aboard at Treasure Cay

We found an island with enough

adventure for the entire family

By Kim Peterson

Selling our possessions and moving from Ontario, Canada, to South Florida in order to build a 65-foot power catamaran turned out to be a little more than we bargained for. The physical demands of construction as well as acclimating to a new nautical lifestyle meant that the four of us, my husband Mike, daughter Lauren, 16, and son Stefan, age 13, were in serious need of some fun. As we finished the project, we began planning an extended Bahamian cruise in Chrysalis, with the intent of spending a month at Treasure Cay Resort and Marina in the Abacos. I hoped our visit to the Abacos would further cement our liveaboard lifestyle. My only concern was that a month might be a little too long for two teenagers used to busy lifestyles revolving around friends, sports, cell phones, and the mall.

One bright day at the end of February, we untied the lines in Jensen Beach, Florida, and cruised overnight under fair skies and calm seas. Our course took us across the Gulf Stream, north of Little Bahama Bank and Walkers Cay. Escorted by a quintet of dolphins, we entered the Sea of Abaco through Loggerhead Channel early the following morning.
Located 165 miles due east of Ft. Lauderdale, the Abaco Islands were first inhabited by the Lucayans and later by Loyalists seeking refuge from the American Revolution. It wasn’t until 1962 that Treasure Cay began to take shape as a resort destination.
Today, with a population of approximately 2,000, Treasure Cay still holds the allure of refuge, but with all the modern conveniences, including an airport just five miles away. Its full-service marina includes 150 slips, fuel, Wi-fi, electricity, water and cable TV. The surrounding resort offered a well-stocked grocery store, bakery, bank, marine hardware store, and nicely appointed laundry facilities, along with two restaurants and a pool surrounded by palm trees. Our kids were happy to discover tennis courts and a nearby 18-hole championship golf course.
After clearing customs and purchasing a fishing license, it took us about two minutes to grab our swimsuits, towels, and floating loungers before hitting the path to the beach. Voted “Best Beach in the Caribbean” by readers of Caribbean Travel and Leisure magazine, the lapping turquoise water, powder white sands and palm trees that stretched out for three and one-half miles lived up to the description. While Mike and I settled into recliners and worked on our tans, the kids spotted several teenagers playing beach volleyball and it didn’t take long before they were laughing and spiking the ball with the best of them. Later, while enjoying a margarita at the Coco Beach Bar and Grill, I watched them join forces with three new friends for an afternoon of snorkeling off the beach.
For the duration of our stay, the water proved to be our focal point. Making use of the on-site Treasure Divers, we received PADI diving instruction and ventured out around Guana Cay, Fowl Cay, and No Name Cay to explore the Abaco Reef. Much of this reef, beginning at Elbow Cay and running for 50 miles to Walkers Cay, is in shallow water allowing easy access. The clear visibility and diversity of wildlife including vibrant coral and colorful fish made snorkeling and diving exciting new experiences for our teenagers. We also learned how to spear fish using a Hawaiian Sling, an acquired skill. It didn’t take long before we were bringing home grouper, snapper, and hogfish. Filleting them turned into an impromptu homeschool biology lesson, a dissection and labeling of fish parts, before the fillets ended up on the grill for supper.
Treasure Cay is convenient for exploring other nearby islands. Regularly scheduled ferries travel back and forth from Treasure Cay to both Green Turtle and Guana Cays. Already familiar with traveling on a boat, our kids were anxious to try a different mode of transportation: mopeds. Renting two from the Resort, we travelled the scenic 20 miles—dodging a goat or two—down to Marsh Harbour. With its population of 5,000, it felt like a busy metropolis. Although not as charming as neighboring New Plymouth or Hope Town, Marsh Harbour has plenty of amenities including, well stocked grocery stores, a bookstore, post office, shopping and restaurants.
To celebrate our adventure in the Abacos, we piled into the dinghy and set our course for Nippers Beach Bar and Grill, roughly seven miles away on Guana Cay. The legendary Sunday Pig Roast and Buffet were reported to be delicious. Nipper’s offers not only a restaurant, but a pool and plenty of seating to relish the ocean views. After enjoying the reggae music, piña coladas, and far more tender pork than we should have, we worked off the calories by snorkeling directly off their beach, seeing two large sea turtles in crystal clear water. Late in the afternoon, full and pleasantly tired, Stefan remarked, “Now that was a totally awesome day.”
After a month, the four of us came to a unanimous decision: Treasure Cay had exceeded our expectations. Not only was there plenty to occupy two teenagers, but Mike and I were able to reach a relaxed, if sandy, nirvana.  The night before we left, we sat in the cockpit with cold drinks. Across the marina came the sound of conch shells being blown, announcing sunset. After practicing a few times, Lauren raised her own empty conch shell and managed to make a decent hollow horn sound.

“Now, I’m ready for our

next visit,” she said.

I couldn’t have agreed more.

After helping to build a 65-foot boat, Kim Petersen moved aboard with her family. Together they cruised the eastern seaboard of North America before crossing the Atlantic Ocean in 2007. Her memoir, Charting the Unknown: Family, Fear, and One Long Boat Ride is set to be released through Behler Publications in July 2010. Visit chrysalisvoyage.com/chrysalisview for more.