A True Tale

A Keys legend is even better than before

By Marilyn Mower

Cheeca Lodge has the longest pier in the Florida Keys. The 38-foot Out Island express is available for charter. Registered guests can tie up small center consoles or flats boats to the pier or be picked up there by local guides.

Steel drum notes of Pachelbel’s Canon coming from the beach drew me to the balcony. There, beneath swaying palms, a wedding party was making its way across a path of rose petals to the water’s edge. Conch shells lined the “aisle” and the trunks of the palms were wrapped in a riot of tropical flowers. As the musician changed his tune to Mendelssohn’s Wedding March, all eyes shifted to the bride who seemed to float across the sand on the frothy train of her strapless designer gown. Even from our fourth-floor perch we could see a beaming smile on the groom’s face.
My husband and I watched the proceedings in silence; our own wedding nearly 22 years ago had been outdoors on Key Biscayne. For a moment I was secretly jealous of the bride below my balcony, her vision—or that of her wedding planner—had been far beyond mine. The scene was right out of a fairy tale. That’s the thing about the Cheeca Lodge and Spa—the entire place is like a fairy tale.

Above is the sundeck off the second floor club lounge. Guests can partake of a daily club membership for access and have meals of snacks delivered from either of the resort’s two restaurants. At right is the spectacular family pool  that faces the Atlantic. A second pool for adults is adjacent to the spa.

Each Premier Suite balcony includes an outdoor tub that fills from overhead. The ocean-front lodge replaced the building destroyed in the New Year’s Eve fire in 2008. The original palms were removed, banked and replaced after construction ended.

The lagoon area in the center of the 27-acre resort features lush tropical landscaping and the relaxing sound of several waterfalls. At night tiki torches create a romantic ambiance. Spa treatments can be arranged literally anywhere on the property.

It’s once-upon-a-time was 1946 when Clara Mae Downey opened the Olney Inn on 27 oceanfront acres of Islamorada. Her Florida Keys inn was deliberately unhotel-like. With bungalows scattered around the property, she made it more like a tropical estate with herself as the gifted hostess. Among the regulars was President Harry Truman, who delighted in the houseboat that had washed up ashore at the north end of the property. Clara Mae had it fitted with electricity and plumbing and turned into his private retreat.
The resort came by its present name through its second owners, Cynthia—nicknamed “Chee”— and Carl Twitchell. They added the main lodge, oceanfront villas, tennis courts, golf course and the iconic 525-foot wooden pier, the longest in the Keys. Their reign was followed by Coca-Cola magnate Carl Navarre, who purchased the lodge in 1976 and turned it into a popular spot for CEOs and celebrities. During his ownership, it became so famous for tarpon fishing that it acquired the label, “The Sportfishing Capital of the World.” The “capital” moniker was even more true when frequent guest and famous angler George H. W. Bush made the lodge his official residence during his many fishing trips while president.
Today, Cheeca Lodge is unique among luxury resorts in that it is family owned. Jerry Johnson bought the lodge in 2005 and spent $30 million on renovations and upgrades, adding the fantastic island spa set in a manmade lagoon. On New Year’s Eve 2008, the fairy tale almost became a nightmare. Around 8:45 p.m., someone flipped a cigarette onto the thatched roof of the beachside bar, which quickly caught fire. A strong breeze pushed the flames to the adjacent lodge quickly engulfing guest rooms and the restaurant. No one was hurt, but the building was a total loss. Without its restaurants and bar, Jerry closed the resort while he rebuilt the lodge.
Rebuilding a four-story hotel in 11 months would seem like a fairy tale, too—if it wasn’t real. Utilizing the latest in green LEED construction technology. Sixty-two premier suites were constructed off-site in Okeechobee, Florida, trucked in and craned into place atop a poured concrete first floor. In just 90 days the lodge went from pilings to topping off. Each suite was delivered complete with marble floors, granite counters, fully equipped baths and all fixtures, plumbing and wiring ready to be popped in place like Legos. Oh, what suites they are. Each is 825 square-feet with a separate bar, plush bedroom and sitting area, enormous bath and dressing room, a 24-foot balcony, and an outdoor tub for two that can be draped for privacy. Cheeca now offers 212 units, including nine beachfront, adults-only bungalows (there is also an adults-only pool), family-friendly three-room suites, a Presidential Retreat, and a 5,800 square-foot apartment.
For recreation, Cheeca has six tennis courts, a nine-hole golf course, bicycles, kayaks, fishing and snorkel gear. Everything­—even DVDs—are included in the daily resort fee. Fishing guides for back-country or near-shore fishing can pick you up at the pier. With Camp Cheeca on site to keep kids safe and occupied, parents can easily enjoy activities together. For the ultimate indulgence, after mending your sore muscles with a massage at the Spa, the staff will set up a private treatment bath in your suite complete with aromatherapy candles. Now, that’s a fairy tale ending to a perfect day.